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Old Fluke Multimeters
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Fungus:

--- Quote from: helius on September 26, 2017, 09:09:01 am ---Some issues of the manual did contain misprints. But I think you are right that it was intended to have 500V peak protection on Ohms, as that was advertised.

--- End quote ---




--- Quote from: helius on September 26, 2017, 09:09:01 am ---The copy you can download from fluke.com does say 300V

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Looks like they changed the maximums to 300V all through the manual. I smell lawyers.
yo0:

--- Quote from: helius on September 26, 2017, 06:54:15 am ---
--- Quote from: yo0 on September 26, 2017, 04:35:33 am ---hello, anybody have a picture of the 300v version of the 8060a? i never have seen any. unless the exterior labels be the same in both 1000v and 300v (i doubt it), if yes how to know which is which?
--- End quote ---

In 1990, the "CAT standards" (Measurement Categories per IEC 61010-1) for meters were released. The Fluke 8060A can only withstand 300V on its resistance ranges, so it can only meet CAT I 300V. To qualify for a "CAT I" label, the voltage ranges were reduced to 300V for both DC and AC. Otherwise, I don't think the meter was changed: it is no safer than the unmodified 8060A.

It can be recognized by two differences from the normal model: the presence of "CAT I" below and to the right of the red jack, and the highest voltage range is marked "300V \$ \simeq \$ " instead of the normal "1000V DC / 750V AC". In addition, the maximal voltage limits printed underneath the jacks are lower (300V MAX from common to earth instead of 500V, and 300V \$ \simeq \$ from red to common instead of 1000V DC / 750V AC MAX).

Here's a picture: https://cache.osta.ee/iv2/auctions/1_9_30853067.jpg

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thank you very much for the info!


best regards.



Pio
med6753:
Seems old Fluke bench multimeters are somewhat under represented in this thread so let me contribute. Top to bottom:

8600A
8000A
8010A
8050A

And just peeking in lower left...

8021A
1st generation 87.
frozenfrogz:
So today I got my first (and most likely last) "new" Fluke DMMs.
I bought two defective units - a 76 and a 79-II - for dirt cheap via small ads.

/* minirant
Since all my other Fluke meters are 8020B, 8060A (8050A bench DMM) and the like, I was really shocked at how shitty the 7X meters are built. How could anyone actually pay real money for these things?
I guess they are good in terms of accuracy, but every other aspect is such a turn-off for me.
*/

I could revive the 79-II without any problems (LCD needed replacement, fuses missing, case and front label are pretty scuffed, everything else seems fine).
The 76 has a case in near mint condition (sadly not easily interchangeable with the 79 case), apart from that the meter is dead ATM. Someone started rebuilding some broken traces and I might just keep it to salvage parts instead of figuring out everything wrong with this thing.
Fungus:

--- Quote from: frozenfrogz on October 27, 2017, 07:14:49 pm ---Someone started rebuilding some broken traces ...

--- End quote ---

 :scared:

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