Products > Test Equipment
Old Fluke Multimeters
vindoline:
--- Quote from: GregDunn on September 21, 2018, 05:15:37 am ---So, perhaps one type would be better suited to the meter's measurement circuitry and the other type to the power supply filtering? Or is it that simple?
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Congratulations on the new (old!) meter. First off, I don't have an 8600 or 8800, so I can't comment on those specific circuits. However I have about 6-8 Fluke 8060A handhelds that I've refurbished and love. In the 8060A, the failure of the aluminum electrolytic caps is so well documented that I agree with preemptively replacing them all. That said, I don't generally recommend replacing working parts just because they might fail in the future.
When replacing parts, I recommend using the same type as originally engineered in the design. i.e. use aluminum electrolytic to replace old aluminum electrolytic, etc. Try and get the same size and lead spacing to fit the pcb. I generally use 105 deg. C rated parts and increase the voltage rating if I can get it in the package siz I need. Also, I always buy name brand quality parts from Mouser or Digi-Key. Good luck!
med6753:
--- Quote from: GregDunn on September 21, 2018, 03:48:08 am ---Well, Flukers (is that too crude? >:D ) it looks like I have an 8800A/AF on the way. Guaranteed working, pictures supplied of the unit allegedly powered up and working in multiple modes. Fingers crossed, it's supposed to arrive tomorrow.
Now, business: this, and my 8600A, are likely in ticking time bomb mode as far as electrolytic caps are concerned. I've read almost all of this thread, and it seems maybe the aluminum poly caps are the best replacements? How about for replacing the tantalums? I'm putting together a BOM to get my meters updated so (without starting any arguments) what's the consensus?
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My 8600A just had a major crap out due to tantalums. See here...
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg1839170/#msg1839170
rsjsouza:
Well, you were lucky they didn't go out with a bang and flames. :)
cvanc:
--- Quote from: Q2A on September 14, 2018, 05:13:06 pm ---The seller says there is a dim character in the display; I have not had time to read the entire thread yet so I'm not sure if that is repairable.
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Quite possibly a simple fix. Read up on cleaning the elastomeric strips (sometimes called zebra strips). These are what connect the back of the LCD to the circuit board below. They are a common cause of missing or faded segments.
Good luck! (and I'm a little jealous)
GregDunn:
I'm still cross-checking the BOM before placing an order, so all input is appreciated. I notice that Dr. Taylor chose nearly all polymer caps for his rework of the 8060s; is there a good reason why that's not an appropriate course of action for the bench DMMs as well? I acknowledge that the big PSU filter caps might need to be Al electrolytics; but given that I am probably going to have trouble finding cheap glass-sealed Tantalums :-DD should those still be replace with Ta or are the polys a better choice there too?
Here's a list of the caps - and original types - which I'm targeting for the 8600A, as one example:
220 µF 40V [2]
2000 µF 15V [1]
6.8 µF 35V Ta [2]
22 µF 15V Ta [1]
330 µF 3V Ta [2]
39 µF 6V Ta [1]
5.6 µF 20V Ta [1]
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