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Old Fluke Multimeters

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rsjsouza:
Nichicon capacitors can leak as well, depending on age and usage conditions. I would inspect them and see if any is leaking or swollen.

andywander:
Thanks for the reply.

From what I read, the only real way to inspect the caps is to remove them from the board and look at the "bung".

If that's the case, I might as well replace them while I have them out, I guess.

Shock:
It makes sense to replace them so they are identical. It's a good idea to buy a few spares when ordering components anyway.

andywander:
Well, I replaced all of the electrolytic caps on the oldest meter.

I noticed that the circuit board has marking for "+ on most of the capacitors, and the marking for C19 showed that the pin closest to the display is "+". However, the cap I removed had it's negative pin installed closest to the display.

I checked the other 2 8060As I have here, and they both had the cap installed negative pin closest to the display.

I didn't see reference to this in any of the writeups I have read about recapping these meters, and from what I can make out in the photos in mrmodemhead's blog posts, he installed C19 the way the board is labelled, positive pin closest to display.

I see no sign that these 3 meters have been molested in the past, one has a SN beginning with a 4, one begins with a 5, and the newest one begins with a 6.

From the dates on the chips, they look like they were built starting around 1987, and ending around 1995.

Has anyone seen this? Or am I on drugs?

Andy

rsjsouza:
Photos would help.

I have a number of old (1970s-1980s era) electrolytic capacitors with marks on the positive terminal instead. Perhaps that could explain this?

I suspect you are not confusing tantalum (which marks positive) with electrolytic (which marks negative), but I have to ask. :)

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