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| Old Fluke Multimeters |
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| AVGresponding:
--- Quote from: mansaxel on September 25, 2020, 07:00:10 pm ---Perhaps the plastic was less brittle back then. --- End quote --- It would have been, for sure. Plasticiser tends to leach out and/or degrade with age. |
| rsjsouza:
Yes, that is my experience as well. Certain types of plastic and their exposure to UV/Sunlight and other elements degrade it. It is not uncommon to open an old equipment with these plastic tabs holding its housing together and break several of them in the process applying minimal force. |
| precaud:
The new LCD install went well. I did have to put a thin plastic wedge between the plastic clip and the "hood" that holds the lcd, to press the zebra strip against the glass and get all digits to appear. One thing I notice about this 8012A compared to other milliOhm-resolution meters I have is, the readings on the last digit are more stable. I think this is because it boosts the output current to 10mA when in low ohms mode. I like it. |
| 5618:
Hi. Here’s an interesting 8060A with a clear case. Initial checks with a fresh battery showed missing LCD segments. I removed the lens, gave the LCD some wiggling, and reinstalled the lens after cleaning it. That brought the whole LCD to life. It looks like A-D isn’t functional yet. No volts or ohms show, only OL. Ratio self test doesn’t change the display from OL. Switch decoding test checks out fine. Hz changes display to 0.00. Continuity and REL show up in display so all functions look like they go through the motions. Fuses, R1, and R2 are good. Closer inspection looks like C36 has leaked a bit. Next step is get caps and replace them. That’s as far as I got tonight. Old battery clip in pic isn’t from this meter. |
| bd139:
Oh that’s very cool. Thanks for posting. :-+ |
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