Products > Test Equipment
Old Fluke Multimeters
precaud:
Any progress on testing those MAC's?
--- Quote from: drtaylor on November 24, 2020, 05:33:50 am ---Do you still need an 8060 MAC? I may have a few in my collection (I'll have to see if I can find them), but they are >30 YO. They've been in conductive foam and might still work. If I find them, I'll put them in a known good 8060 and see if they work.
--- End quote ---
djadeski:
Another fix-up story to add to the list here.
I picked up a Fluke 8060a on kijiji (like craigslist) here locally recently. It was cheap but really dirty and the LCD initially looked bad but I took a chance. Its a 3333 serial and those are reported to be super leaky so once I checked the screen to see if it could be fixed I would look at the caps.
The screen turned out to have been assembled in the wrong order to once wiped off and assembled correctly it was okay. Someone had opened it up and lost the green power switch but that was the seemed to be the extent of that.
Next step was to clean it up and see how it performed, basically it worked pretty well, was a little unstable and slow to settle and the negative n terms of other issues only the negative voltage showed low at 4.924. From this topic and mrmodemhead's blog posts I was pointed to cap C21.
At that point I ordered caps using a combination from the list here from drtaylor and mrmodemhead’s blog based on availability and swapped them out – first time really taking on something like this. Once I replaced the caps I cleaned up with lacquer thinner and iso alcohol (with ventilation and gloves etc) , put it back together and fingers crossed – it powered up and appeared to be just fine.
The negative voltage on TP2 was now -5.099, the unit settles quickly and once I adjusted it, it seems to be working very well.
Before and post removal pics attached - I was in too much of a rush and didn't take an after new installed caps pic but you can see the result and the bad caps from the pics hopefully attached at the end. Its clear that they had started leaking and but hadn’t really destroyed too much of the surrounding material, mostly affected the pads immediately below.
I will have to see how it fares over the long haul.
Thanks for all the help and great insight provided on this board, could not have attempted it otherwise.
Dave
rsjsouza:
Congratulations on your restoration! These meters are incredibly good and hopefully this lasts you a very long time.
ogdento:
Glad to see so many 8060s still going!
When trying to bring one of these back to life I've mixed up a cap or forgotten a critical step, so here's a quick and dirty diagram I use to keep my head straight... maybe it'll help somebody else with their first (or 10th) re-cap. Thanks to Dave Taylor/Fluke/et al for the original diagram from the awesome manual :-+
**The red arrows on the 40-pin socket and the dc power jack are to remind myself of two things:
* Depending on the 40-pin socket used, if it isn't pushed forward toward the front of the board it can interfere with the the display bracket's "third leg"/post and it won't set into the hole on the pcb... so I push it forward, tack a pin or two, and test fit the display bracket
* I remove lots of parts during a re-cap so I can clean the board well... I once re-installed the dc input jack too close to the 40-pin socket and couldn't seat the mac chip :palm: Don't do that!
jh15:
I see two C21s
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