Products > Test Equipment
Old Fluke Multimeters
rsjsouza:
--- Quote from: mansaxel on February 04, 2022, 02:43:39 pm ---
--- Quote from: BeBuLamar on February 04, 2022, 01:54:53 pm ---Make me want to buy a 8060a to go with my Simpson 260.
--- End quote ---
You'll find them on the 'Bay for about $100 from Israel. My personal record is 150 SEK, for one that turned out to be in excellent shape. Before that I'd bought one from USA for about $75, which was OK. But not fantastic.
--- End quote ---
Holey moley! Your post prompted me to look at eBay for 8060A and the prices are in the hundreds of dollars from insane sellers! Sure the actually sold items are much lower priced (US, though).
Fungus:
--- Quote from: rsjsouza on February 04, 2022, 03:57:50 pm ---Sure the actually sold items are much lower priced (US, though).
--- End quote ---
They'll be much lower in the USA.
I've got a spare one here in Spain. If anybody's interested, PM me.
rodcastler:
In my case even though none of the usual electrolytics showed leakage, there was one point showing evident corrosion, and that was under C37.
It's a small blue 0.01uF ceramic that was leaking after breaking (there was a visible crack, and one of the legs fell off when I removed the part). The photo shows the fix with an orange cap.
I'm fairly confident this meter was never plugged to an external power supply, so I can only assume this cap gave up out of age, while under 9v from the battery
You may want to inspect C37 for corrosion just in case. The meter will most likely function correctly if this cap fails open.
rsjsouza:
Interesting. Ceramic disc capacitors have solid dielectrics.
Since the corrosion was close to the battery wire, I (and others) have seen leaky battery corrosion migrate through the wire from the contacts to the PCB. Perhaps this was indication of such past event?
Of course it could also be simply contamination or fluid ingress into the housing.
rodcastler:
You must be right.
Although there are no signs of corrosion anywhere else: the battery connector and wires are intact. Corrosion was present on the board, in the area but now I can't remember exactly if it was right under the cap or right between the wires.
My first thoughts were even around some sort of corrosion out of condensation, considering it was a ceramic cap, but then when I noticed that the capacitor had cracked, I began to distrust the ceramic nature of the cap. You brought a good point. I'm not sure what could have happened.
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