| Products > Test Equipment |
| Old Fluke Multimeters |
| << < (176/192) > >> |
| ChasL0001:
Hi All Just bought three Fluke D8000As off ebay, for fun to get working. Two are rev 3001 and one is rev 3011 and appears to have space for two batteries where the rev 3001 only has space for one. I got one working of the 3001s OK but the other, whilst it appears to be in good condition, it's been robbed of two ICs, U4 - 7614 and U3 - 7617. Cant find any specsheets for these and the manual just gives fluke p/n for one of them. Anyone know what these chips are and where to get them? The third meter, rev 3011, has different chips for these - U4 - 7916 and U3 - 7941 - i suspect they may be similar or just older versions of the same type of chip but I dont want to chance putting them in. Cheers Chas |
| Zoli:
Some time ago I've bought an 8060A as parts only(Rev.G, NL made 1984); here's a short history of fixing it: Former repair attempt failed left a couple of shorts; once the shorts removed, the LCD came back to life. Proceed with the capacitor exchange - the LCD support parts are broken in two location. Time to fire up the tools of trade: Dremel 4000, Vertical tool stand and 0,5mm cabide drill. I've glued the broken parts together with cyanoacrylate, then proceed with drilling. The 0.45mm thick wires are leftover from the 10µF capacitors. After drilling I've applied some CA on the top of the hole, and moved the wires in-out a couple of times, to ensure that the CA goes all the way down the hole. After that , I've applied a drop of accelerator on the CA, and put it aside for 24h. During that time the PCB's and the MAC get washed and dried. Next day assembly, testing - almost spot on; currently tested the low voltages(AC-DC) and ohms; no adjustment needed. Thank you for your time, and feel free to ask questions. |
| NoisyBoy:
I decided to add another DMM I used way back in the college days to my addition to go along with the 8000A I restored. This time, I bought a 8600A. The meter arrived filthy dirty and displayed 1.8888 in all functions and ranges after a minute of warmup, the saving grace is the printed legends for 20MOhm and 200mV on the display were all excellent without fading. The caps were all measured in spec, but I ordered replacements just in case. The inside of the meter was pristine, as I had to break an fluke calibration sticker back in 1980 to get to the screw to open up the case. Anyway, I started with reseating all the ICs, there was no change. I then removed all the cards and cleaned the contacts with DeOxit D100, as well as adding DeOxit to each switch. After letting it sit for 30 mins, as I exercise each switch, I saw the display began to return to near 0 with a shorted input. After another 10 min of round robin switching, the displayed settled to reasonable numbers. Then it came time to adjustment and calibration, I used my EDC522, IET 1433 and a function generator, after tweaking for an hour, I was able to bring everything back within spec. The auto ranging works perfectly, and delivers DC accuracy under 0.02% error. I did notice the design allows a little bit more ripple in its 5V supply relative to the -15/+15V supply, the new caps may be able to improve on it. But for now, I am happy it is back in full health, so I will leave it original until there is a need to refresh components. For those of you who intend to restore another 8600A, the manual does not match my version of the PCB, some test points simply do not exist on my board and I had to read the schematics and PCB traces to identify them, but it was not hard to do. I think it can serve the basic measurement need in a nostalgic fashion when utmost accuracy, speed, and automation is not required, I am just glad to see another bench meter with red glow on my test rack and bringing back warm memory of my college years. |
| jmczaja:
Hi! I've been using my 8060A since my dad gave it to me in the early 90s to repair tube amplifiers and build other audio related gear. Over the years, I've acquired some fancy meters but always return to my 8060A. It still works great after all these years but obviously needs a recap at this point since it still has the originals in place. This thread has been super helpful in that respect. I was wondering if anyone had a spare light tan button (AC/DC selector) as mine has cracked off and has been lost sometime in the last few decades. I should probably buy a parts 8060A at some point to have on hand but don't think it's necessary since this one is still working great with the exception of the missing button. I will gladly pay for the button and shipping if anyone has one to spare. Drop me a PM and let me know. Thanks in advance! The 8060A is such a great meter. |
| MarkKn:
In the 1980s, I bought a fluke 37. I was a hobbyist and young, so I didn't have a lot of disposable income, so I went after what I thought was the best value/functionality combination in my budget range. My thought on this was that it looked like a bench meter, but the price reflected it was a really handheld in a large case. I was working on audio gear and I noted it speced as being able to accurately read ac up to 20khz... A while back, I became concerned about its accuracy, and some of the lcd elements were faded, so I put it on the museum shelf. Recently I saw a youtube video where someone fixed the lcd issues. I figured I had nothing to lose so I took it apart and performed the delicate surgery of cleaning that foam-based pressure connected contact mesh that powered the display, and after a very fussy assembly process, the display shows all elements full strength. So, it was fun getting that thing back to full speed. I also had dropped it at some point and some of the plastic case parts were broken--it was not noticeable when using the case, but I glued those back in place as well. Sure got plenty of use out of it back in the day... Many thanks to whomever showed how to clean that foam contact matrix or mesh or whatever it is. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |