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Old Fluke Multimeters

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bdunham7:

--- Quote from: yo0 on October 13, 2022, 05:36:37 pm ---16.93 kohm

--- End quote ---

I've never paid attention to the supposed diode function on these, but I did remember that they don't use a constant current setup for the ohms functions.  They use a voltage source and a comparison to a reference resistor plus some math.  I have no idea how this would give you a workable diode check using the resistance range (as is done properly with meters like the 8840A/AF/8842A series).  At best it might be some sort of approximation that is in the ballpark at typical diode voltages.

I dragged out my 8050A (repaired/restored and calibrated) and tried it and I got results similar to yours.  According to the manual, the 2K, 200K and 20M ranges are all usable as diode test ranges.  An ordinary diode (1N4xxx) gave me a ~0.65 on the 2K range, ~16.xx on the 200K range and ~0.81 on the 20M range.  Testing with a voltmeter during the tests gave me ~0.55V, ~0.40V and ~0.23V respectively.  Testing the current put out by the 8050A in the 2K range gives me 1.00mA shorted and 0.83mA with the diode.  That all seems similar to your results.  Unless there is some trick I don't know about and can't find in the manual, the diode test functions on these meters range from a rough approximation to plainly not working.  In theory this could be compensated for internally with math, but I see no reference anywhere to this being done and no combination of button pushes that I tried made it happen.

I've no idea how something like this made it out the door, but I suppose the feature isn't entirely unusable if you mentally correct or just want go/no-go results.  Perhaps we should all mail our meters back to Fluke and ask for refunds!   :-DD

adinsen:
This is my first post, but I'd like to express thanks to people participating on this thread :clap: as I recently got myself a Fluke 8060a from a retired radar engineer who had kept it as his backup DMM to a Fluke 75. The 8060A hence had very little use since new in 1985. Apart from some weak segments on the display and missing original probes, the meter seemed complete, functional, and clean when I picked it up. It came with an original flyer-style danish instruction booklet, but no other documentation. I learnt from this thread to expect leaking capacitors, so I was expecting the worst when I took it apart as I got it home on the desk. Impressively, all electrolytes seemed intact, though.

I'm grateful for all the advice from people here, especially of course to DrTaylor for sharing your stories and knowledge about this fine DMM. I have just finished recapping and impressively found all the old capacitors to still be within specs in regards to capacity! Probably a sign of the fact that the meter has seen very little use and has been kept stored in the cold Scandinavian climate. I'm of course also grateful to the seller who decided to part with this DMM, his backup "Rolls Royce of multumeters"   :-DMM

I chose new electrolytes based on fit/size and availability from my local Danish components vendor. In case someone reads this who is in or near Denmark, here's a list of currently available perfectly fitting miniature electrolytes from EL Supply. Note that these are generally 1000-2000h devices, but for my hobby use of the meter, I think it will be fine for 10+ years  8)

DesignationOriginal valueEL Supply P/NPin spacingDiameterHeightDescriptionC1,C23,C24,C32,C34100UF 6.3V211D3101L2.546.407.80RND Components 100UF 16V 105degC12,C21,C2810UF 16V211E2101L2.004.007.50JAMICON SS 10UF 35V 85degC3622UF 16V211E2221L2.545.007.50JAMICON SS 22UF 35V 85degC1947UF 10V211D24722.005.007.00RND components 47UF 16V 105deg
Finished meter after recapping and cleaning of the zebra strip:


There's a few more pics in my Flickr in case anyone would like to see a bit more of the meter or share a comment/advice on my work ::)

ogdento:
Love seeing all these still-working 8060s!  A bit over 2 years ago I started messing around with a replacement display for the 8060...

I had another thread with a couple of hair-brained ideas that never quite got off the ground, including an oled mod and a sandwiched pcb design that were inspired by Dmitri's work over at Modemhead's blog and Bobricius over at Hackaday.  In any case, the tiny smd leds were just too fiddly to work with (for me anyway), and I'd long nixed the oled mod as impractical... a remaining option was to design a custom lcd, so I did that!!

Here's how it came out... pardon the crappy photo-work

Started off with that nasty bleeding...


And with my custom lcd...


I didn't out-right copy the original display graphic (I presume done by Dave Taylor?) because it somehow felt like cheating and possibly unethical/illegal?  I wanted to do my own art-work anyway so I made a few tiny tweaks... the digits are a touch larger and I moved the continuity bar down a hair so it would be easier for my aging eyes to see from distance.  Still got a little more fiddling to do because I screwed up the elastomer size a bit so I'm waiting on replacements, but I'm getting there!

ogdento:
oops, I'm not qualified to operate image attachments... missed the best images of all!

rodcastler:
 Good job on the LCD!  Looks really nice. I always liked the proportion of the digits on this fluke, but I can definitely get used to the larger ones.

I can also relate to the effort of bringing the continuity bar a bit lower as it’s hard to see. Do you happen to have a photo with the bar and the case on for comparison with the original?

I’ve read that these meters tend to suffer from bleeding LCDs just as yours. Do you plan to sell some for those of us who’d like to keep a replacement?

Thanks!

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