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Old Fluke Multimeters

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drtaylor:
I would suggest that the PCB is likely getting mildly corroded, even if it looks good. I would use a stiff acid brush and scrub the land pattern with ISP, dry, then do it again. You can also take the round elastomeric, and with a soft, ISP dampened no lint cloth, wipe it down. The carbon can dissolve in ISP, so don't use too much on your cloth. Also, clean the glass contact area on the LCD with ISP, again with a soft cloth. Good luck!

adinsen:
Thanks so much for your advice! I took it apart and as you mentions, I couldn't see any sign of corrosion. Perhpas a little around one of the connectors. It turned out, however, that I missed a purely mechanical failure, as can be seen in this picture. My attempt to fix the problem by increasing the tension of the elastomeric probably made it worse. At least I now have a large, clean face that I can apply glue on.

qiran:
I got a Fluke 8024B with "PEACE PEARL" labels. Looks like it has been used by "PEACE PEARL" project.

About "Peace Pearl" program:
The 1986 "Peace Pearl" program with the United States included upgrading 50-55 J-8 IIs with US avionics, Martin-Baker ejection seats, and possible US engines for US$502 million. Two aircraft were flown to the US for prototyping, and work was underway by the time of the 1989 Tiananmen Square protests and massacre.Peace Pearl was cancelled by China in 1990; the US had permitted it to continue despite the post-Tiananmen sanctions.

yo0:
Alternative replacement for broken/damaged LCD displays for 8010a, 8012a, 8050a and maybe others, all at AliExpress.

some wiring and labor needed for installation


Best regards

Pio

blue_lateral:
Hello I'm new here, although I have been lurking for a long time. This is an amazing thread. I have just read all 38 pages of it for about the fifth time. Thanks to DRTaylor for starting this thread, and for giving us all this groundbreaking design in the first place. I have been a fan of them since the beginning. I couldn't afford one then, but one of my friends bought one when they first became available. Fast forward to the mid 2000s, I bought one and was using it as my main bench meter. You could buy nice ones then on ebay for about $35-$60. I bought another, and an 8062, and despite being from different sources and all having expired calibration, they all agreed out to the last digit. I was not aware of any chronic electrolytic capacitor trouble at the time. The main issue then was that the buttons rot and break, and Fluke no longer had new ones. I started collecting any of these "piano key" meters I could get, no matter how beat up or destroyed, just to get buttons. I scoured swap meets for broken ones, no matter what model. My goal was 3 nice working 8060as. Well, life got in the way, and all my test gear got packed away about 5 years ago. Most of it is still packed away. In recent times a friend of mine bought a 3d printer and.... we can make buttons! Maybe not quite the right colors yet, but I am working on that. I keep getting closer. I drug out all the piano key flukes. Most of the ones that had been so good no longer worked. That was kind of a bummer, but since buttons could be made, and potentially battery doors and stands too, I decided to take it further and try to fix all of them. Some of the "parts" units are 8020 variants. It's not likely I could fix all because there are parts missing, and displays for the 8020 variants are a problem even if I could make them all work. I have one 8020 display that works, one that is completely missing, and the rest are unknown but don't look very good. Anyhow here's the "collection":






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