Products > Test Equipment
Old Fluke Multimeters
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Dave Wise:
If you find name brand caps that leaked, please post about it.  I don't know whether my luck is due to part vendor or storage conditions.  I will certainly examine my 8024B after all the horror stories.
blue_lateral:
My worst corroded 8060a is from roughly 1983 and all the electrolytics were black and marked Nichicon except C19. Corrosion ate 3 pins of the MAC socket, which I have replaced, and the MAC is also bad. There is a possibility the MAC may have already been bad, as this particular 8060a was not working when I put them all away about 5 years ago. It had a bad crystal too, that may have been the reason. There was blue corrosion on the legs of the TRMS chip, and I had to remove it to clean up the mess. I don't yet know whether it survived. There was some corrosion on the charge pump but not too bad, and it cleaned up without removal.

I bagged the caps and know which ones came from which units, most have no brand on the jacket. A couple more units had caps that looked exactly like the black Nichicons, but were not labeled as such. The evidence for exactly which caps were leaking and which were not is pretty much gone because I washed everything in isopropyl thoroughly before desoldering. Most of the caps that looked OK had fouled the pads directly underneath.

Dave Wise:
I examined my 8024B, S/N 3990037.  It appears to work fine, with sharp black display segments.

The "Dark Pewter" button on the function switch is broken but looks like I can rebuild it with epoxy.  There are also two 3D-print templates at Thingiverse, once my local library gets a printer.  Thing numbers 2373469 and 5307572.

The secret to getting the boards out is you have to remove the shield screw.
The main board is Rev L and assembly Rev J, switch board Rev H and assembly Rev F.  There are 1984-1985 date codes everywhere.
The electrolytic caps are Chemi-Con with no visible leakage, the boards are sparkling clean except a bit of dust on the switch solder side.

The two switch board retaining pillars are covered in a "fur" of tin whiskers  :o
The amps shunt resistor on the switch board presses against the side of the cap on the main board, it has rubbed through the plastic sleeve.

I'm also working on the board layout and program for my 8060A beep frequency shifter.  Can't use LFINTOSC for the Numerically Controlled Oscillator, it's f+/-25%.  The choices are HFINTOSC (+/-3%) or external 40kHz clock from the MAC.

UPDATE.  I ordered parts and sent the board layout to OSHPark.  The program will use external clock.  Epoxy is setting in the broken 8024B button.  The 8024B caps read okay.  My instrument (which sports a battery threshold trimmer) is closer to the 1988 Rev 2 manual than the 1982 Rev 1.

UPDATE 2.  I rebuilt my 8024B's broken button with JB Weld slow 2-part epoxy.  I inserted a strip of business card with slits in the paper to clear the ribs on the bottom, wedged it in place with lengths cut from round toothpick, and filled the bottom and end with epoxy.  After it set I pulled off the paper, scratched off the residue, and filed down the excess.  I'll still 3D print, just to compare and in case my repair fails.  I think I'm ready to simulate my 8060A Beep Frequency program.
blue_lateral:
There are 3 different buttons on Thingiverse. Some print better than others, but I have at the moment lost track of which I am using. One of the three has a window in the bottom like the original Fluke button, and that one did not print well for me. I am a complete beginner with 3D printing though, so someone else might do better with it. Still, one of the others is easier. What is Dark Pewter? Is that the lighter or the darker button?

The only "B" version I have of the 802x meters is an 8020B. It had 2 22uf electrolytics in it, They leaked and etched the board a little leaving it milky looking after cleanup and there is one damaged pad. I removed the caps, but have not replaced them yet as I am still waiting on my vaporware Kyocera 22uf caps which were after the last delay supposed to ship April 2. The last email said production completed April 5, and they were in transit to Mouser, estimated ship date April 29. April 29?! That suggests to me that Mouser will believe it when they see the the capacitors. No vertical space concerns in a 8020B though, so I could put something else in like the Kemet A759s.
Dave Wise:
I didn't see the third 3D button template, what is it's Thing Number?
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