Author Topic: Old Fluke Multimeters  (Read 356237 times)

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Offline smmi

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #700 on: August 11, 2019, 04:47:07 pm »
hey ogdento...  sometimes we get lucky... sometimes we don't...

that's a big cleanup job on that meter... thank goodness for modemhead's blog and dave taylor's comments up here - for me anyway... and geez what happened to the alt-power battery eliminator jack's input cover? - is that from the spewed electrolyte?... that big blob of green on the MAC certainly seemed telltale...

after I recap this 8060A, I'm going to tear into my 87 (a knock-around spare I've had for years) and clean the display's zebra strips so it gets dark-dark again - I hope that's all it is... 99-isopropyl is our friend... good luck...
 

Offline ogdento

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #701 on: August 11, 2019, 07:17:16 pm »
Very true Smmi!

Turns out that blob of blue/green on the chip is actually paint - Modemhead's got a ceramic chip in one of his 8060 repair entries with a similar blob.  And I think the power input jack is actually OK, the plastic is a little rough but I think flash did it a grievous injustice ;)

I really like the 87s too... I forget that they're 30 years old!  Great meters, easy to work on, and I love that the service manual is so inclusive.
 

Offline Dave Wise

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #702 on: September 01, 2019, 04:01:32 pm »
As I said in post #650 of February 13, 2019, I have an 8100B that read slightly high.  I was able to bring it spot-on with a slight tweak to R175 ZERO.  I'm still curious about the other ADC adjustments (R308 TRIP POINT, R149 REMAINDER), but it's pretty useful as is.

I don't see a separate thread for differential voltmeters, so I'll say here that I just got a tube-type 825A/AG back on its feet.
This model is a premium version of the 801B with a 1mV null detector vs 10mV.  The /AG means the reference is a Zener instead of a standard cell.

Unusual cap failures: a leaky electrolytic that depressed a regulator, another leaky electro coupling cap causing null detector offset, and an electro that was pretending to be a battery.  I rarely see a leaky low-voltage electrolytic that causes a malfunction, usually they just dry out.

Unusual cap, that failed: Why did Fluke use a paper/oil bumblebee?  In a sensitive spot in the regulator?  While the rest of the film caps are mylar?

Also a rectifier with photodiode action causing more-than-full-scale offset on the recorder output.

When I accidentally applied high voltage on a low range, one of the polystyrene input filter caps gave its life to protect the neon that was supposed to protect it.  But after one hour in total darkness, the neon fired at 92V so it just must have been the cap's time to go.  Not having a 0.1uF polystyrene, I used polypropylene.

The plastic number wheels were warped causing them to rub one another making the action rough.  This probably afflicts the 801B and other models that use them.  I fabricated good-looking replacements using the original metal hub, a cut-down CD blank, legend overlay designed in LibreOffice Draw, and self-stick plastic laminating sheet.  They look great, and the knobs slip from one detent to the next with that smooth ringing clank like they're supposed to.  I'll post the recipe if anyone wants.

The switch contacts were dirty, but they quieted after a shot of polyphenyl ether.

I was beginning to compare it to my gold standard 895A when the latter failed.  Not my favorite scenario.
But it turned out to be simple, just an open electrolytic in the 1100V Reference Supply, parts are on order.  Four Nichicon UCA-6 (short and wide) 22/450.

It's been a good week.

Dave Wise
 

Offline JdaleH

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #703 on: January 02, 2020, 03:28:05 am »
As some of you may have read, I have three 8060A multimeters.  All seem to work, but have bad displays.  I have opened the worst one up to gain some experience with it.  All the displays have blurred numbers and black areas, so I don't know if I can resurrect them.  Hopefully, one or more working displays might show up from members here. 

Just in case, I am looking at the prospect of converting one or more displays to discreet 7-segment displays with individual LEDs for the various other function indicators on the display.  I got a schematic from manualslib that shows the pinout between the microprocessor and the display (see attachment).  I can follow most of the pinouts except for the ones that go to other functions where two functions are apparently toggled by a single pin....look at BT and minus (-) for example.  I can't figure out how to accomplish that.  I hope someone can help me with this.  I am pretty good at doing pcb layouts if I understand the circuit, but I'm no EE.  Hopefully, Dr. Taylor can shed some light on this.  Regards, Dale KS4NS
 

Offline george.b

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #704 on: January 02, 2020, 03:47:24 am »
Just in case, I am looking at the prospect of converting one or more displays to discreet 7-segment displays with individual LEDs for the various other function indicators on the display.  I got a schematic from manualslib that shows the pinout between the microprocessor and the display (see attachment).  I can follow most of the pinouts except for the ones that go to other functions where two functions are apparently toggled by a single pin....look at BT and minus (-) for example.  I can't figure out how to accomplish that.  I hope someone can help me with this.  I am pretty good at doing pcb layouts if I understand the circuit, but I'm no EE.  Hopefully, Dr. Taylor can shed some light on this.  Regards, Dale KS4NS

If it helps, that has been done before. See http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/a-very-unique-fluke-8060a/
ModemHead is in this forum and has participated in this very topic regarding this very theme. He might be able to help you.
 

Offline JdaleH

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #705 on: January 02, 2020, 04:17:18 pm »
It looks like Dimitri had the same issue.  He only brought out the minus (-), KHz, and diode functions to the display.  If that's all that can be done, I can do that.  Dale
 

Offline drtaylorTopic starter

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #706 on: January 03, 2020, 12:45:42 am »
The 8060 LCD is fully duplex and almost all the pins serve two LCD segments. Any scheme to change the display to LEDs will require duplexing the LEDs as driven by the backplane pin.This apparently has been worked out before.
 
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Offline JdaleH

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #707 on: January 03, 2020, 03:26:09 am »
drtaylor, thanks for joining the conversation.  I have done a little research on duplexing LEDs and I see how it is done.  I have asked Dmitri on mrmodemhead's blog to help out with the schematic he developed.  By careful inspection of the disassembled display along with the schematic, I have mapped out most of the duplexing, but have a few connections to the backplane I haven't figured out for sure.  Now that I know what I am looking for, I will go back to the display and look some more for the few connections I have missed. 

The duplexing complicates the pcb design a bit, but still doable.  I am going to leave it to the EEs to figure out how to keep from burning out the microprocessor.  (anyone want to give it a go?)  Dmetri used green low current LED with 12k resistors.  Maybe someone will back calculate what LED specs will be suitable.  Hint:  Kingbright has some reverse insertion LEDs that install in holes in the pcb (to reduce overall thickness). 

 I think my part should be limited to designing the pcb (which is what I do the best).  I really wouldn't want to lead the process of having a new run of custom LCDs made up through a group buy, but that is a real alternative as I have read that getting a custom LCD made is not outrageously expensive.  If anyone wants to look into that alternative, have a go at it.  Dale
 

Offline ogdento

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #708 on: January 04, 2020, 05:50:22 am »
JDale,
Dmitri sent me some scans of his paperwork about a year ago and I found a schematic I made from it.  I just redid it in Kicad and posted it over on the OLED thread, which I guess is no longer about an OLED mod ;)

It sounds like you've got some pcb experience, so maybe we can put our heads together and make a couple of these... and if they work then anybody should be able to copy our design.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-8060a-refurb-possible-mainboard-to-micro-hack-and-oled-conversion/msg2856550/#msg2856550
 

Offline JdaleH

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #709 on: January 04, 2020, 03:28:44 pm »
Hi, I looked at your schematic on the OLED thread.  I noticed that someone took exception to the layout.  I haven't taken the time yet to look at it carefully because I think you will probably do that.  I usually use ExpressPCB for laying out my pcbs because the interface is so easy to use.  If I don't need something that fits their pcb size, I have a "secret" method to convert my work to gerbers for Chinese fab or OshPark.  I usually am making up small boards for my use in other peoples projects that I want to build.   Once you give me the green light that you are happy with your layout (and the orientation of each LED, please triple check), I will get started.  I haven't looked up a particular LED to use, but I will try to use the same form factor that Dmetri used.  I am thinking I will first layout the overlay needed in Coreldraw.  Once I am happy with that, I will get the x-y location of each LED for transfer to the pcb.  I will send you the overlay when finished.  Thanks for you help.  That schematic is awesome.  Dale
 

Offline ogdento

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #710 on: January 04, 2020, 05:31:28 pm »
Hey thanks JDale, I fixed the schematic but do need to verify signals etc. so I'm going to try and re-do my little test rig for that.  I'll let you know when I get that figured out and have the layout fixed up.  I've also got some dimensional sketches so I'll get them up there too.
 

Offline Martin.M

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #711 on: January 04, 2020, 06:10:50 pm »
I have a question.

Fluke Table DMM, 8300A, 8500A:

why they have front connections where the good quality banana cables will not make a good contact??
In my HP3456A this is much better.
Is there special cables from fluke ?

thank you.
 

Offline vinlove

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #712 on: January 06, 2020, 01:16:59 pm »
For daily uses of today's electronics workshop, would these old Fluke Meters be still reliable and good test meters compared to the new meters coming out of China sold on eBay and Amazon?
Are these old Fluke metres being used and restored for nostalgic reasons or do they actually work accurately and reliably as the new ones?
« Last Edit: January 06, 2020, 01:23:59 pm by vinlove »
 

Offline Black Phoenix

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #713 on: January 06, 2020, 01:37:12 pm »
Are these old Fluke metres being used and restored for nostalgic reasons or do they actually work accurately and reliably as the new ones?

Both.
 
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Offline george.b

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #714 on: January 07, 2020, 12:31:35 am »
For daily uses of today's electronics workshop, would these old Fluke Meters be still reliable and good test meters compared to the new meters coming out of China sold on eBay and Amazon?
Are these old Fluke metres being used and restored for nostalgic reasons or do they actually work accurately and reliably as the new ones?

Both my Fluke 8050A and my Fluke 27 are bang on, checked against 0.1% resistors and a 0.2% voltage reference, so I'd not only say yes, but also even more so. The Fluke 27 itself is a beast of a multimeter, your average Chinese multimeter off ebay can't hold a candle to it, at least in ruggedness/reliability.
 

Offline rsjsouza

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #715 on: January 07, 2020, 02:07:29 am »
Same here; generations of Flukes are still matched quite closely (8020A, 8060A, 8062A, 27/FM, 87V and 189). I would say it is quite useable by today's standards.
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Oh, the "whys" of the datasheets... The information is there not to be an axiomatic truth, but instead each speck of data must be slowly inhaled while carefully performing a deep search inside oneself to find the true metaphysical sense...
 

Offline david77

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #716 on: January 07, 2020, 03:19:45 am »
Yeah, same here.

8040, 8050, 8060 and even 8110 (1972!) and 8600 are in regular use and still in spec.
The 8040 and the 8110 I had to do repairs on, due to aging components.

That brings me to my question. I didn't want to start a new thread about it, seeing as it is about an old Fluke multimeter.
Last year I gave myself a 8502A as a christmas present. I wanted a 6,5 digit meter for some time and this came along at the right price and at the right moment. I've been trying to find anything meaningful about this meter on the net, not much luck so far.

My unit seems to work fine, it's pretty much fully equipped with:
02 - Ohms converter / 03 - Current shunts / 04 - Cal memory / 05 - IEEE / 08A - Isolator / 09A TRMS AC/DC converter

Do any of you guys have experience (good and bad) with this meter?
Anything I should check or replace to keep it soldiering on? What about this cal memory, is there a battery I should replace?

I have to admit I haven't had a look inside as of now.

Thank you for replying.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2020, 03:23:34 am by david77 »
 

Offline Fungus

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #717 on: January 07, 2020, 07:34:16 am »
do they actually work accurately and reliably as the new ones?

Yes. Back then Fluke was interested in making the best instruments possible. Period. Now they've been bought out by a bunch of bean counters and only want to maximize profits (largely based on the reputation of the meters they were building back then).

The 8060A in particular is very fast on all ranges* and does True RMS up to 200kHz. I've got two and they're bang on accurate with 0.01% resistors, 0.05% voltages, etc.

(*) These were the days when "speed" was part of the specification, the 8060A manual is full of phrases like "One second maximum to rated accuracy".

« Last Edit: January 07, 2020, 07:45:27 am by Fungus »
 

Offline med6753

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #718 on: January 07, 2020, 07:44:16 am »
do they actually work accurately and reliably as the new ones?

Yes.

Absolutely.

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Offline GreyWoolfe

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #719 on: January 07, 2020, 01:43:22 pm »
Same here; generations of Flukes are still matched quite closely (8020A, 8060A, 8062A, 27/FM, 87V and 189). I would say it is quite useable by today's standards.

I have a 27 F/M myself and is spot on with my DMM Check+
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Offline GLouie

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #720 on: January 07, 2020, 10:07:42 pm »

To clarify, the 8060A true RMS AC is rated up to 100kHz, and the frequency counter up to 200kHz. Still largely unmatched by more than a handful of DMMs, 35 years later. Mine is still in use, after an emergency capacitor swap a few years ago.

Yes. Back then Fluke was interested in making the best instruments possible. Period. Now they've been bought out by a bunch of bean counters and only want to maximize profits (largely based on the reputation of the meters they were building back then).

The 8060A in particular is very fast on all ranges* and does True RMS up to 200kHz. I've got two and they're bang on accurate with 0.01% resistors, 0.05% voltages, etc.

(*) These were the days when "speed" was part of the specification, the 8060A manual is full of phrases like "One second maximum to rated accuracy".
 

Offline tautech

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #721 on: January 08, 2020, 12:34:39 am »

To clarify, the 8060A true RMS AC is rated up to 100kHz, and the frequency counter up to 200kHz. Still largely unmatched by more than a handful of DMMs, 35 years later.
Yes well things have moved on some to the point where the Chinese can a decent bench DMM with 2.2 million counts, TRMS to 300 KHz and internal counter to 1MHz.
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Offline rsjsouza

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #722 on: January 08, 2020, 12:52:24 am »

To clarify, the 8060A true RMS AC is rated up to 100kHz, and the frequency counter up to 200kHz. Still largely unmatched by more than a handful of DMMs, 35 years later.
Yes well things have moved on some to the point where the Chinese can a decent bench DMM with 2.2 million counts, TRMS to 300 KHz and internal counter to 1MHz.
Certainly so, but the 8060A is a handheld.

Also, "don't be too proud of the technological terror they constructed. The ability to tout these numbers is insignificant next to the power of time" (Darth Vader)

Not saying one way or another regarding the Chinese, but the true test of time will take... Well, time.

Designing a product is one thing. Designing a product that is robust is entirely different.
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Oh, the "whys" of the datasheets... The information is there not to be an axiomatic truth, but instead each speck of data must be slowly inhaled while carefully performing a deep search inside oneself to find the true metaphysical sense...
 

Offline vinlove

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #723 on: January 08, 2020, 04:52:25 pm »
Out of all the classic vintage Fluke meters, which ones are more / most reliable, accurate and easy to repair?

I have a Fluke 25 from 1980s, it is still being used daily.
I just bought a Fluke 8000A in very poor cosmetic condition and with unknown working condition.
Will have to be tested, and repaired if needed.
 

Offline ogdento

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Re: Old Fluke Multimeters
« Reply #724 on: January 08, 2020, 07:28:36 pm »
for hand-helds I'm a huge fan of the 8060a (the manual is fabulous as is the additional info available thanks to Dave T!), and I also like the 80 series (particularly the 87 - but the 87-1 and 87-2/cat3 versions are easier to fix than the 87-3)

It's a toss-up which one I grab off the bench but I probably grab the 87 more just because I don't mind if I break it.

oh, and both have the same dc volts accuracy of 0.05% (except the +counts are 1 and 2 for the 87/8060)
« Last Edit: January 08, 2020, 07:31:27 pm by ogdento »
 
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