EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: blewisjr on March 17, 2013, 02:55:57 pm
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I am working on finishing up my bench in the next few weeks. Yey tax money. I am going to pic up a Rigol 1102E scope and a Hakko solder station. I know I need a dmm to go with my ExTech 330 and a power supply. Any suggestions on those? Also any other test equipment I should get? I work with micro controllers so keep that in mind.
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Something to test the esr of caps is very handy if you are doing repairs. A stock of common parts is great to have on hand too.
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Get a second multimeter, in fact get as many as four!
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Get a real multimeter with real accuracy and not a brand known to be made poorly. The EX series by Extech are made by CEM in China and many have had them actually fall apart inside.
Ivan747 is correct, you should have a couple.
Some good options:
Amprobe AM-270 $90 Horrible backlight but otherwise a great meter
Amprobe AM-160 $250 Ditto
UEi DM-397 $240 with PC connection included (Best buy in a multimeter IMHO)
Brymen BM869 $250 plus shipping from Europe, super built multimeter
Brymen BM257 $110 plus shipping from Europe, same as above, maybe iloveelectrnics still has some
Uni-T UT61E <$60 free shipping from iloveelectronics here on the forum, lacking temp and backlight, good buy
When asking for what is the best thing to buy, it is helpful to those who are replying if they know where you live. Things are not the same prices or available in all parts of the world. This IS a forum with international participation.......
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The Extech has been working well so far but I do want one really solid meter to go with it. So I did put in for the contest as I could really use it. I have had my eyes on eBay looking for the fluke 87. Any recommended psu's or psu kits?
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Start slow. The DS1102E, a cheap ($50) multimeter, a bench power supply (GPS-2303 or similar) and possibly a function generator (SFG-1003) should do wonders for bench equipment. Focus on getting lots of bins worth or WELL ORGANIZED components (resistors, capacitors, inductors, transistors, diodes, op-amps, microcontrollers, crystals...) and breadboards, hook-up wire, alligator clips, banana plugs, BNC adapters...
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The Extech has been working well so far but I do want one really solid meter to go with it. So I did put in for the contest as I could really use it. I have had my eyes on eBay looking for the fluke 87. Any recommended psu's or psu kits?
If you do mostly microcontrollers and not much precision analog work I would not spend too much on multimeters. One nice and reliable unit + one cheapo unit for secondary purposes.
Instead of 20 multimeters consider logic analyzer for example.
Powersupply:
Secondhand Agilent/HP 6632B for roughly 100-150 GBP
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This!
Start slow. The DS1102E, a cheap ($50) multimeter, a bench power supply (GPS-2303 or similar) and possibly a function generator (SFG-1003) should do wonders for bench equipment. Focus on getting lots of bins worth or WELL ORGANIZED components (resistors, capacitors, inductors, transistors, diodes, op-amps, microcontrollers, crystals...) and breadboards, hook-up wire, alligator clips, banana plugs, BNC adapters...
If you can get a bench power supply with a really good meter built in, then you won't waste your DMM measuring the voltage and current being supplied to your circuit - it'll be free to measure more interesting things. It's one of the reasons I'm such a fan of the HP 6632B.
That said, don't buy stuff just because you think it might be handy, or someone on a forum says you ought to have one. I didn't have a function generator at all for years, because I simply didn't need one - I built circuits that generated signals of their own that I wanted to look at, and the inputs to these circuits weren't sine, square or triangular waves.
A few tips, though...
- don't scrimp on test leads, clips, cables, probes and similar accessories. Buy good quality ones and buy enough of them. Not having a 4mm banana lead available when you need one is a pain, and pointless.
- hand tools are important too. Buy the best pliers, cutters and strippers that you can afford, as you'll use them way more often than any instrumentation or test gear.
- buy a complete kit of resistor values, cover everything from 10R to 1M, preferably E24 series. Capacitors are next, but one or two values per decade is probably fine for a lab kit. Leds, buttons and switches are always handy and can be re-used if necessary. Any other parts you can build up over time if you always order more than you need for any given project.
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Ok lots of parts got it. On the topic of tools not that I want to tangent the thread. I have a nice set of flush wire cutters from Italy I bought on adafruit does anyone know of a company that makes non magnetic tool? Having a hard time finding them at Home Depot and such. What about logic analyzers should I have one or should I wait? Gunna have a hard enough time learning the scope.
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Stay with Agilent/HP and Fluke...
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Only you can know if you need a logic analyzer. (or a bus analyser, which only work on some protocol but do in and out comunication)
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I wouldn't buy lots of parts. If you move to different sized parts (SMD) then you end up with a pile of parts you'll never use again. IOW a waste of money. Just buy what you need for a project and you'll end up with a collection of parts which are actually useful.
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I second not buying equipment unless you need it, and you'll probably know when that is :). If you're doing digital, imvho, apart from components, it sounds like you'll already have everything you need. You'll probably also know if and when you need a logic analyser, for a lot of digital stuff I'm pretty sure your scope will do you just fine, but I have no idea what kinds of projects you'll be doing :)
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I agree that you should buy parts based on the project, but I also say you should buy a resistor/capacitor kit for whatever size components you decide to use for that project not just what you think you will need. If you use surface mount and go 0805, get an 0805 resistor and capacitor kit. Like I've said before, nothing is worse than having to wait for one odd resistor when you have everything else ready to go, and that always seems to happen that you need the one value you don't have. (the ability to parallel and series components aside of course)
If you don't have them already, get some good wire strippers. Those 12-in-1 pieces of junk shuold only be used for cutting screws. Get a pair that does the smaller wire, like 30awg to 20awg, then another larger one for 20awg to 8awg or something. The auto-strippers work pretty good for the big size one.
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I second not buying equipment unless you need it, and you'll probably know when that is :). If you're doing digital, imvho, apart from components, it sounds like you'll already have everything you need. You'll probably also know if and when you need a logic analyser, for a lot of digital stuff I'm pretty sure your scope will do you just fine, but I have no idea what kinds of projects you'll be doing :)
I guess you are right there. In general I want my projects fun and useful. The first crazy cool idea that I want to build when I am ready is a wall mounted data log thermometer. Just so I can make cool graphs of the temp changing in my bedroom.
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I agree that you don't need to waste money on high precision DMMs etc when you're starting out.
A couple of meters are handy so you can measure Volts and Amps at the same time. General experimenting will require an adjustable power supply too.
After a while you'll get a feel for what other equipment you need. Even if you do buy a more expensive DMM later, the cheaper ones you started with will still be handy.
A good soldering iron (I prefer genuine Hakko) and leaded solder (Multicore 60/40) are right up there on the must have list. They are something not to cheap out on the first time.
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I agree that you should buy parts based on the project, but I also say you should buy a resistor/capacitor kit for whatever size components you decide to use for that project not just what you think you will need. If you use surface mount and go 0805, get an 0805 resistor and capacitor kit. Like I've said before, nothing is worse than having to wait for one odd resistor when you have everything else ready to go, and that always seems to happen that you need the one value you don't have. (the ability to parallel and series components aside of course)
You can get pretty far with parallel / series. If you run into an odd value it probably won't be in an E12 kit anyway. I usually start with 10-22-47 100-220-470 etc when I expect the need to built up some stock of a certain type of resistor. I don't bother with capacitors. Usually 100n and 1uf are enough. The rest follows later on.
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Wow great little tangent discussion going on thanks I like to see all the different thoughts on what components I should stock even if off topic.
To try and track this back on topic lets move to Oscilloscope thoughts. I know I want one of these I can see it becoming very handy even if it does not get used all the time especially because I want to design my own circuits and such. I was looking into like I stated the Rigol 1102E I think that is the 100MHZ bandwidth version for $400. Any thoughts on this scope at this price range or is there something better at that range?
As far as power supplies go I don't need high voltage etc as I am dealing mainly with micros I was looking at the Velleman PS3003U about $100 goes from 0-30v and 0-3A current. Any thoughts on this or suggestions for an alternative?
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From just a quick glance, the Velleman PS3003U PSU looks fine, but it only has a single output. I've been there... having to virtual ground op-amps and use buffered resistor dividers for circuits operating at different voltage levels becomes a real pain in the arse... I'd recommend getting either two of those, or something with two+ outputs built in.
I own the DS1102E and it is a great scope for the price. Since you're just starting out, it is what I would recommend.
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It strikes me that if I wanted to get a cheap single output supply I would go with that Korad supply Dave reviewed (after the fix of course). It's about the same price as that Velleman and its programmable. Not sure how the regulation compares.
I agree that a dual supply is more useful, but you don't want to necessarily tie up your only supply doing opamp bias voltages. I keep a dedicated +/-15V supply around to free up my variable supply. Power supplies are one of those things you should start collecting. You never seem to have enough anyway.
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Frankly, for single output I'd go old school and get one of the Power Designs Precision power supplies (or one of the triple output, not quite the same long term stability but still solid pieces of kit). They are beasts but they occasionally come on ebay for $50-100. It just depends on how much wattage you need.
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Just a funny idea, you could make your own powersupply ;)
I started with a double one ( lm317/337). Now i have several commercial ones but also a few home made ones. I too have a 7815/7915 psu for opamp experiments.
I like to have a big stock of parts. Most things I design and build make use of that stock, but if you only build existing schematics stock is not usefull.
I have smd, tubes, through hole. Resistors from smd to high voltage/ high power versions, caps from 0.5 pF upto 5F, a lots of inductor material ( cores, wire, ect) opamps, logic ICs, voltage regulators, leds, ldrs, ptc/ntc, varistors, fuses, diodes, power transistors, IGBT and mosFETs, normal transistors and fets, switches, connectors, sockets ect.
My most used instruments ( I do meterology/analog/RF)
- scope ( DSO and a good analog including several plugins)
- multimeter ( one hand and a good 6,5 digit benchmeter, but I'm not into digital)
- lcr meter (i prefer bridges)
- counter
- function generator
- signal genertor
- VNA
- lots of probes, and accessoires, testleads, adapters, terminators, coax ect
- good soldering station.
Nice to have too, if needed offcause:
- spectrum analyser
- curvetracer
- calibration gear and standard
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I also kind of recommend getting some good resistor kits. Digikey has a various assortment.
I'd personally recommend getting 5-10 of each value of 1/4 metal film resistors, carbon film are cheaper, but I'd still go for the metal film.
Here's a small list I could think of that would be in line with what you'll be doing.
Caps:
ceramic:
- For caps, I think it's a good idea to have a good assortment of ceramic caps lying around
- It might be helpful to research the difference between C0G/NP0 and other dielectric types for ceramic caps, sometimes you'll need (or *should* use C0G/NP0).
- probably want to at least have an amply supply of caps suitable to decouple your uCs and to a lesser extent for any XTALs you'll be using
electrolytic (aluminium):
- you might *not* want to stock up on aluminium electrolytics, they have a relatively short shelf life (like 8-12 months), unless you're willing to put them on a reform schedule. My little parts database tracks this for me, but I haven't been assed to build a proper reforming station.
electrolytic (tantalum):
- you might find these useful eventually, I find it's nice to have an assortment lying around, but they are a little pricey
diodes:
- should have 100s of these, in particular 1N4001s, they are dirt cheap
small BJTs:
- also no problem to have hundreds of common types of NPN and PNP you think you might use, also dirt cheap
opamps:
- if you use opamps, can never have too many of different types lying around
Switches:
- an assortment of tiny switches which can be plugged right into your solder less-breadboards is very handy
LEDs:
- I find an assortment of cheap throw-away LEDs is usefull just to stick a "power-on" indicator onto your breadboard
3-pin linear voltage regulators:
- definitely want to have plenty of LM317s around and maybe a similar assortment of fixed voltage regulators at 3.3v and 5v
heat sinks:
- you'll want to have a small assortment of these
- assortment of DIP package uCs of your favourite type, these are also fairly cheap
- lots of cheapo pots that can easily be plugged into a wireless breadboard, these are pretty much essential
Hemostats and tweezers!! These will save you lots of frustration if you have a good assortment on hand, don't cheap on these.
- another slightly oddball suggestion is to buy an assortment of 5<->3.3V logic level converters: e.g.: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8745 (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8745)
Again, it's probably better to start small and you'll probably find your own good balance of parts to have on hand, eventually you'll be driven by getting sick of not having what you need around when you have a good idea!
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electrolytic (aluminium):
- you might *not* want to stock up on aluminium electrolytics, they have a relatively short shelf life (like 8-12 months), unless you're willing to put them on a reform schedule.
Has anyone here actually found this to be true? I've not had any experience like that at all.
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electrolytic (aluminium):
- you might *not* want to stock up on aluminium electrolytics, they have a relatively short shelf life (like 8-12 months), unless you're willing to put them on a reform schedule.
Has anyone here actually found this to be true? I've not had any experience like that at all.
Data sheet:
I usually do try to follow the data sheet and many will give a shelf-life around this length.
Personal experience:
I've had some Panasonic caps from a kit start to show increased ESR after two years in the binder. This is my only real world example.
I guess my point is, that it's kind of a pain to have to pull a component out of a bag or box and be unsure if it will operate without testing it.
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Datasheet gives Z, ESR meters can meaure everything from crap to ESR. Use D or measure Z at 100 KHz like most panasonics state.
I have done lots of tests on reforming caps ( hundereds) and the change in other parameters. 30 year not used caps, good ESR, good D, capacitance within specs but to much DC leakage. After reforming DC leakage Good, capaitance the same, sometimes a bit lower, sometimes a bit higher but this is not significant.
ESR change was also not significant.
I build several reformers. Shelflive from old caps is much longer, the modern caps I have are 1 to 7 years old, never have to reform one, leakage was like new.
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Datasheet gives Z, ESR meters can meaure everything from crap to ESR. Use D or measure Z at 100 KHz like most panasonics state.
I have done lots of tests on reforming caps ( hundereds) and the change in other parameters. 30 year not used caps, good ESR, good D, capacitance within specs but to much DC leakage. After reforming DC leakage Good, capaitance the same, sometimes a bit lower, sometimes a bit higher but this is not significant.
ESR change was also not significant.
I build several reformers. Shelflive from old caps is much longer, the modern caps I have are 1 to 7 years old, never have to reform one, leakage was like new.
That's great info. A lot more experience than I have. Would you be willing to share your design for the reformer? I'd still like to build one. Also what brand of caps would you say has the best non-use stability?
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... measure Z at 100 KHz like most panasonics state.
My LCR meter only goes up to 10Khz. Only other thing I have is an ancient impedance bridge which I could use with my function generator. I'm trying to learn more about and focus on analog stuff, hoping to work my way up to higher frequency analog. What can you recommend in the way of essential impedance/capacitance/inductance measuring gear?
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Don't want to hijack the OP's thread, but one more quick question: if it wasn't the shelf life, what else could have caused a new cap to have higher ESR?
Here is the series of events for me: I recently moved. After setting up my lab in one of the spare bedrooms of my new place, I got sick of never being able to find anything. So I built a database of all my components with fields for every possible useful parameter plus picture and datasheet and location (like which drawer it was in).
As I was adding entries, this involved DL'ing the datasheet and reading from it. When I was adding a kit of capcitors I purchased from digikey, I came across the shelf life at temperature data. Then I realised I had a problem, which then led me to add some derived fields which would tell me when an electrolytic cap was coming to the end of its shelflife (and for any other component I might have which also has a shelf life).
Then I did the next logical thing which was to grab the oldest binder of capacitors and test one. This is when I came across a cap (first one out of the binder actually) whose ESR tested quite high. I will admit that I never tested that cap before for anything (well, I'd be surprised if anyone would have either).
So, that experience and the data sheet is the source of my deciding that I'd reform any caps about to exceed their shelf life (and of course keep measurements as I do this to determine if this is effective vs doing nothing and possibly only reforming when about to put into a circuit, which seems anoying to have to wait for).
What is the best policy here? I can certainly conceive of wanting to use these old caps to put into a circuit I'd want to sell. Just only use new stock for this, or the other end of the scale and not bother worrying about electrolytic caps and how old they were? What about just wanting to throw a circiit together but don't want to have the extra variable of a potentially bad cap causing undesigned behaviour?
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http://www.pa4tim.nl/?p=3775 (http://www.pa4tim.nl/?p=3775) about ESR
If you then use the find function on my site you also find pages about measuring DC leakage ( and reforming caps including a schematic for a reformer/ leakage tester and simple ways with a bench supply.
If you want to learn more about impedance, i have a network analysis tutorial there too ( 8 downloadable pdfs) it is written for vna users but it are the basics in NA. A good start is the free Agilent download of their impedance measurement handbook ( but for network analyses you need a good understanding of electronic basics and complex notation, NA is not about measuring antennas and filters like many people think ( and it is most used for by amateurs, but it is for most about component behaviour on and off pcb)
The ESR goes exponential from infinity at 0 Hz to a lower value around 10-20 kHz, then it decreases further to a minimum, for big caps between 50 and 150 kHz, after that dip it increases again due to skinloss and dielectric loss. ESR is not a very usefull value on its own. For instance the ESR of ceramics caps is low, but the ESR of a good 100 pF cap can be over 1000 Ohm.
If you measure 2 Ohm at 10 kHz, this can be low or very high. This depends on the value of Xc and so C. If you have a good LCR meter it gives you D, this tells about the quality of the cap, regardless of other things. D is specified in datasheets, but D is given for a frequency. The standard is 1 KHz and 120/100 Hz. A D of 0.01 at 1 KHz, will be around 0.1 at 10 kHz because ESR decreases little but reactance decreases 10X. But that is all in the link. There are also pages about measurements on known bad caps that I found donig a repair. I measured them in several ways to compare.
Best LCR meters are bridges, alltough modern on cirrus chipset based ones come close. ( i mean affortable LCR meters, real good digital LCR meters have been around much longer but very expensive) I have a bunch of bridges, restored most of them and kne how to use them, mail me if you want to learn how to use it, But tell me the brand-type brigde you have and if rather unkown a sharp picture of the front. The fact it needs a seperate oscillator (and detector? )makes me think it will be a good one, Wayn Kerr, General Radio or ESI perhaps ?
On the site of Conrad Hoffman, also a member here if I'm correct, there is a lot of information about bridges too.
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Ok so two power supplies got it. I think I will pick up two of those vellemans as I do not really know any brands and the agilents are very pricy.
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Also what brand of caps would you say has the best non-use stability?
Avoid ultra-ultralow esr type electrolytics for general purpose use.
Rumour is that these use water-based electrolyte that is more prone to electrolysis and pressure buildup. One tell-tale to avoid water-based electrolytic caps is to look for temperature rating: -55 Cel rated cap is probably organic electrolyte, -40cel rated caps are possibly water based ones.
I have plenty of old stock but when I have to order new electrolytics these are my fafourites:
Panasonic FC
Nichicon PW
United Chemi-Con LXY or LXZ
Rubycon (can't remember models)
I have same experiences as PA4TIM: ESR increase is hardly a problem in storage, DC leakage is the first sign of trouble.
And you can always cut one or two caps in half to see how much electrolyte there is left.
"Modern" ultralow esr types may show increased leakage already after 1 year in storage. If the leakage current does not drop below spec even after reforming you better throw that batch of caps away!
Most of the major electrolytic capacitor manufacturers were having lots of trouble couple of years ago with ultralow esr caps.
Nichicon HM and HN series, United Chemi-Con KZE and various others. And Chinese "brands" are more or less trouble all the time.
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http://www.pa4tim.nl/?p=3775 (http://www.pa4tim.nl/?p=3775) about ESR
If you then use the find function on my site you also find pages about measuring DC leakage ( and reforming caps including a schematic for a reformer/ leakage tester and simple ways with a bench supply.
This is awesome stuff! Thank you! Thanks also for providing such a good response, appreciated.
If you want to learn more about impedance, i have a network analysis tutorial there too ( 8 downloadable pdfs) it is written for vna users but it are the basics in NA. A good start is the free Agilent download of their impedance measurement handbook ( but for network analyses you need a good understanding of electronic basics and complex notation, NA is not about measuring antennas and filters like many people think ( and it is most used for by amateurs, but it is for most about component behaviour on and off pcb)
You've got me interested enough to learn all about NA; will read your tutorials. Thanks for the pointers to the Agilent handbook too!
Best LCR meters are bridges, alltough modern on cirrus chipset based ones come close. ( i mean affortable LCR meters, real good digital LCR meters have been around much longer but very expensive) I have a bunch of bridges, restored most of them and kne how to use them, mail me if you want to learn how to use it, But tell me the brand-type brigde you have and if rather unkown a sharp picture of the front. The fact it needs a seperate oscillator (and detector? )makes me think it will be a good one, Wayn Kerr, General Radio or ESI perhaps ?
On the site of Conrad Hoffman, also a member here if I'm correct, there is a lot of information about bridges too.
I'd definitely be interested in this, my bridge is a General Radio 1650A, For signal generation, I'm not so well equipped (yet), I have an HP3314A function generator and an old Wavetek function generator. I'll send you an email soon.
Thanks again for the help, having someone point you in the right directions is half the battle.
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Also what brand of caps would you say has the best non-use stability?
Avoid ultra-ultralow esr type electrolytics for general purpose use.
Rumour is that these use water-based electrolyte that is more prone to electrolysis and pressure buildup. One tell-tale to avoid water-based electrolytic caps is to look for temperature rating: -55 Cel rated cap is probably organic electrolyte, -40cel rated caps are possibly water based ones.
I have plenty of old stock but when I have to order new electrolytics these are my fafourites:
Panasonic FC
Nichicon PW
United Chemi-Con LXY or LXZ
Rubycon (can't remember models)
I have same experiences as PA4TIM: ESR increase is hardly a problem in storage, DC leakage is the first sign of trouble.
And you can always cut one or two caps in half to see how much electrolyte there is left.
"Modern" ultralow esr types may show increased leakage already after 1 year in storage. If the leakage current does not drop below spec even after reforming you better throw that batch of caps away!
Most of the major electrolytic capacitor manufacturers were having lots of trouble couple of years ago with ultralow esr caps.
Nichicon HM and HN series, United Chemi-Con KZE and various others. And Chinese "brands" are more or less trouble all the time.
Very very good info, thanks! I never would have known ultralow esr caps had these issues, from what you've said seems best to avoid them if possible.
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If you are experimenting and learning analog electronics, a good function generator is really helpful and certainly, after a scope, meter, and DC power supply my most frequently used piece test equipment. Avoid ones with high distortion (>0.1% THD) so that you have clean signals to test with.
Get LOTS of banana plug cables along with a variety of alligator and other smaller clips that go on the end of banana plugs. Use them ALL the time. I standardize on the 3-foot ones and have a set of 10 hanging on the bench.
Also, get some good quality BNC-terminated cables and various T-connectors, terminators, and adapters for banana connections. I started with cheap BNC cables but eventually upgraded to Pomona because they make much more reliable connections and also have better high frequency response.
If you breadboard, a most useful thing is a small collection of linear potentiometers of different values with 8" tinned leads soldered on to the terminals. I use these again and again in different projects.
Over time, you'll accumulate a collection of stock components, and these are handy. But, you can buy a variety box of resistors and capacitors from Joe's Knows Electronics for about $20/ea that will cover most of the bases and will also put the components in nicely labeled and compact baggies for storage in the box. The component quality is certainly good enough for experimenting with breadboards.
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Ok time to revisit the topic now that some stuff is sorted out.
Right now my current lab state looks like this.
Rigol DS1102E oscilloscope
ExTech EX330 multimeter
Hakko FX888 with chisel tip
Flush cutters
Wire strikers
Dremel
Still trying to find
Some other hand tools
Second multimeter
Place to order more part(not sure where I want them from yet comparing prices still)
Power supplies (considering building these myself)
Ok from this point what should I look into I am still sitting around $1k usd of my budget left.
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For hand tools - a good screwdriver assortment as well as an allen key set and a torx driver bit set will be useful. Also get a good quality pair of combination pliers (don't chop big stuff with your good fine cutters) and a pair of needle nose pliers. Tweezers are good for placing SMD resistors and capacitors and a scalpel hobby knife with spare blades is good for fine trimming.
Get a couple more tips for the FX888 - a medium conical for general soldering and maybe a fine conical for really fiddly work.
As for a power supply, one of those $80 eBay 3A 30V units will be useful for 95% of your initial projects. Even when you buy / build something better, that first unit will still be of use.
For audio projects, an old stereo hi-fi amplifier and a set of speakers will serve you well. Check out eBay, Gumtree or the local "tip shop" for these. If you don't have an audio oscillator, you can get by for now with a CD player and burning your own test tones with your favourite audio editor software. To get a variable level output from the CD player, wire up a 10K stereo log pot in a little box with RCA input and output sockets.
A logic probe can be handy - just don't buy the $10 ones on eBay as they are useless. I found this recently (but the seller did refund the sale after a nudge). For more serious digital work a logic analyser is good - I like my Saleae Logic unit.
For projects involving serial comms, those FTDI based USB-Serial boards (~10 on eBay) are a great way to get serial data in and out of your PC. Use with your favourite serial terminal software - lots of free ones out there.
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Ok from this point what should I look into I am still sitting around $1k usd of my budget left.
Do you have a computer at/near your workbench? Nothing special is needed, but being able to search datasheets etc is very useful.
I keep my monitor on the desk with the computer on the floor, don't have any noise issues with what I do. Are you doing digital or analog or ?
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Yes, having a PC (with two screens preferably) right there at your bench is pretty much essential these days. It doesn't need to be super powerful, but it does need to be reliable.
I find that a wireless mouse and keyboard is much better than corded versions when they're right there on the bench with you.
As I also keep the PC under the bench, I have serial and USB extensions coming up onto the bench top so I don't have to ferret around the back of the PC to plug something in.
Also remember to backup your project files on a separate drive, preferably in another room. (my backups are automated local and off-site daily)
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Mostly uC work. Yes I have a computer for the workbench. Just have to change a few fans that the kicked the bucket. I do have a conical tip that came with the iron no sure on the size. I tend to avoid eBay when possible so I will look around for a pre built supply.
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For your second meter, I recommend this one (plenty of other listings for the same meter): http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FLUKE-27FM-DIGITAL-MULTIMETER-with-Fluke-test-leads-and-Manual-/321096237002?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac2d3bfca&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1180 (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FLUKE-27FM-DIGITAL-MULTIMETER-with-Fluke-test-leads-and-Manual-/321096237002?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac2d3bfca&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1180)
I guarantee you won't be disappointed owning one, it'll likely last you forever, and look at the price.
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https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-372-fluke-27-multimeter-review-teardown/15/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-372-fluke-27-multimeter-review-teardown/15/)
Here more about this meter. They are over 20 years old and there are several versions, TRMS and not TRMS. But i have a 20 year old Fluke 77-3 and an even older 8020. The 8020 had a bad diplay but I fixed that. The 77-3 is still as good and accurate as new. Amazing..
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Anyone try out the Fluke 77 IV? Looks like I can get some decent deals on it.
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No equipment recommendation but related:
Keep your programming place and your soldering place close but separated.
Living next to a 600 kW MW station in the past, I recommend to stock a few ferrite cores to tame incoming and outgoing RF in case you suppose or prove it is here.
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Just won a Fluke 77-4 off Ebay for $144 USD. Great deal for a $300 meter. Lets just hope it is in mint condition as they stated.