Hi All,
I just purchased the HDS272, so without built-in AWG, and am very happy with the device so far. When I opened it up it looks a lot like it's just an assembly variant of the model with AWG though, since there is a spot for an extra BNC connector. Looking at pictures of the HDS272S internals it looks like the exact same board, except that one has the third BNC connector installed. It wouldn't surprise me if one can simply add that third BNC and install the HDS272S firmware, but I wanted to check if anyone here has taken the plunge and tried this already.
A potential snag is getting the firmware binary. My device is at V8.1.0, and if I understand correctly the major version is tied to a specific revision of the PCB. Unfortunately it looks like Owon do not provide the V8.x binaries on their site, even though other versions (6.1.0, 5.7.1 etc) are available for both the HDS272 and HDS272S. Does anyone know where to get the V8.1.0 firmware for the HDS272S?
Thanks in advance,
Jeroen
Hi All,
I just purchased the HDS272, so without built-in AWG, and am very happy with the device so far. When I opened it up it looks a lot like it's just an assembly variant of the model with AWG though, since there is a spot for an extra BNC connector. Looking at pictures of the HDS272S internals it looks like the exact same board, except that one has the third BNC connector installed. It wouldn't surprise me if one can simply add that third BNC and install the HDS272S firmware, but I wanted to check if anyone here has taken the plunge and tried this already.
A potential snag is getting the firmware binary. My device is at V8.1.0, and if I understand correctly the major version is tied to a specific revision of the PCB. Unfortunately it looks like Owon do not provide the V8.x binaries on their site, even though other versions (6.1.0, 5.7.1 etc) are available for both the HDS272 and HDS272S. Does anyone know where to get the V8.1.0 firmware for the HDS272S?
Thanks in advance,
Jeroen
Unlikely because the AWG chip is probably also not populated. You can check by looking at display side of the PCB.
Unlikely because the AWG chip is probably also not populated. You can check by looking at display side of the PCB.
Ah, that makes sense. I didn't go that far in yet, but you're probably right. Oh well, I guess my next project is going to be building a signal generator
.
Thanks!
Hello all,
I am a complete noob when it comes to oscilloscope but I have done as much leaning as I could and have watched retro computer videos for years, so I thought I would be able to get the basics right at least but I have very quickly found the shallow bottom of my knowledge pool.
I have bought a Owon HD242 as I am currently only interested in low frequency retro computers. My first victim is a C64 running at 1Mhz. Basic signal like clock are fine but as soon as I probe address or data lines on the bus, I get a mess of lines. The scope seems to trigger but I have 10 to 20 competing lines at least on my display. If I stop the capture, it is still all messed up but when I move my cursor left or right, then it seems to sort itself out. I am doing something wrong or is the scope faulty? I am on the V8.1.0 firmware.
Probe and scope on 10x but I have tried 1x as well. Of course DC coupling, I have tried the AUTO button and I have done the probe compensation. But the problem seems to be more in the behaviour of the software than the capture IMO.
Anybody has an idea?
Many thanks!
Not much experience with scopes, but I think normal triggering
is most useful with repeating wave forms (e.g. sine wave, square
wave, PSU ripple). Address and data lines aren't repeating, so
you will see "a mess of lines". You could try to set the trigger
type to single.
My first victim is a C64 running at 1Mhz. Basic signal like clock are fine but as soon as I probe address or data lines on the bus, I get a mess of lines. The scope seems to trigger but I have 10 to 20 competing lines at least on my display.
Does it look similar to this video?
https://youtu.be/Uqrel5fQpK4?t=1278
Does it look similar to this video?
https://youtu.be/Uqrel5fQpK4?t=1278
Exactly what it shows at 22:10! The video mentions "persistence" which is the word that came to my mind initially as well, but there is no setting I can find to switch it off. One difference, in the video he takes the probe off the pin and the signal looks fine, mine seems messed up until I scroll left or right
Does it look similar to this video?
https://youtu.be/Uqrel5fQpK4?t=1278
Exactly what it shows at 22:10! The video mentions "persistence" which is the word that came to my mind initially as well, but there is no setting I can find to switch it off. One difference, in the video he takes the probe off the pin and the signal looks fine, mine seems messed up until I scroll left or right
Go under the horizontal time base menu it's on the second page.
Does it look similar to this video?
https://youtu.be/Uqrel5fQpK4?t=1278
Exactly what it shows at 22:10! The video mentions "persistence" which is the word that came to my mind initially as well, but there is no setting I can find to switch it off. One difference, in the video he takes the probe off the pin and the signal looks fine, mine seems messed up until I scroll left or right
Go under the horizontal time base menu it's on the second page.
My HDS2102S only has "Refresh High/Low", "Hor Center" and "Counter On/Off" on the second page of the horizontal menu. Is Refresh Low what you're referring to - I don't have a suitable signal to test right now.
Does it look similar to this video?
https://youtu.be/Uqrel5fQpK4?t=1278
Exactly what it shows at 22:10! The video mentions "persistence" which is the word that came to my mind initially as well, but there is no setting I can find to switch it off. One difference, in the video he takes the probe off the pin and the signal looks fine, mine seems messed up until I scroll left or right
Go under the horizontal time base menu it's on the second page.
My HDS2102S only has "Refresh High/Low", "Hor Center" and "Counter On/Off" on the second page of the horizontal menu. Is Refresh Low what you're referring to - I don't have a suitable signal to test right now.
Yes try refresh low. That being said, what are you trying to see? A basic scope like the Owon is only heading to tell you if data is going over the wire, nothing about the data itself.
Thanks guys, setting refresh to low works perfectly. I can now use it.
Evil twins (fw: v3.0.0 & v4.1.0). Both have "base" noise.
Hello everybody, I made a series of 3 videos of this scope (1 intro, 2 dmm, 3 scope).
Those are my first videos, be kind with me...
I spake Spanish in videos too.
If you want to check I attach a link with part 3 (scope review).
https://youtu.be/z3vBFMeZHes
Anyone know the time/div range for roll mode? I don't see anything about roll mode in the specs (https://www.owon.com.hk/products_owon_hds200_series_digital_oscilloscope).
100, 200, 500 ms/div
1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000 s/div
Does anyone else have a problem with the speed of the multimeter - especially the squeak? Board v3.2 software V8.1.0
I haven't read the 27 page thread yet, but have some questions:
#1 - Is there a way to hack the units such as turning a 272S into a 2202S for example?
#2 - Assuming no to #1, are the 2102S or 2202S units worth the extra money?
#3 - What does everyone think of the AWG, same question, is it also worth the extra money?
#4 - Any problems with these units, downsides, etc?
I've been wanting to mess around with a handheld one and I really like the low price of the 272S @ $185 at Amazon.
#1 IIRC different hardware -> no
#1 IIRC different hardware -> no
And even then there are different hardware variants within the same model number that run somewhat different versions of firmware.
I've borrowed one of these, HDS242S.
#2 This is a basic, edge triggering oscilloscope. For me, more bandwidth would be diminishing returns for the extra money. If you are doing demanding work, you might be better off putting the money aside towards a more featured bench oscilloscope. But it depends on your project/use case though.
#3 Yes I think the AWG is a high value feature. Limited amplitude range, no modulation. But much less expensive than a standalone device.
#4 The best features are its compactness, convenience and being 'isolated' (the inputs and outputs are not isolated from each other, but the whole thing is floating with respect to the device you are testing when you are on battery power). Downsides are the short memory depth, so you can't zoom in very far on 'bursts' and the somewhat awkward rubber button interface is less convenient than rotating knobs you have on a bench oscilloscope. However, if you are patient and work through it, the compromise is ok.
Has anyone tested the bandwidth on the 40 MHz model?
Some of the translations are interesting on that mikrocontroller.net thread.
Ikea wrote:
> the PM3350A
For heaven's sake...
What a towing to balance the oil tubular cucumber around the area
and then look for a socket.