Author Topic: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)  (Read 234928 times)

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Offline Nullarbor

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #200 on: October 02, 2017, 06:07:47 pm »
Just a quick update.

I downloaded the latest software version for this scope.
I can't discern much difference except that the graphics are a bit different.
A pity they don't have a change log.

Here's a pic of the version I had and have now:

Yes, I am still pleased with my oscilloscope.

Have a great day, Nullarbor
 

Offline GyroTopic starter

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #201 on: October 02, 2017, 10:06:26 pm »
Thanks for pointing out the update Nullarbor, I hadn't seen it.

A typical Owon screw-up with the downloads...  :palm:

- Going via the support tab on the VDS product page downloads V1.0.27
- Going in via their 'Download Center' offers download of V1.0.28 but when I try to download it, AVG blocks it with a "URL:Mal" infection detected! (screenshot attached).

I've sent Owon a message through their support link, so hopefully they will fix it!

In the meantime, I found a copy of V1.0.28 on this Russian language support site:  https://technica-m.ru/support/type/soft
I've scanned the setup file with AVG and Malwarebytes but other members please use at your own risk! When installed, it gives exactly the same S/W build number as you posted.

The difference in graphics that you show is due to the Black skin being used rather than the Blue one (it can be changed at the top of the Utilities panel). Ironically the only difference I've found so far (versus V1.0.23) is that changing the skin setting seems to have been broken in V1.0.27 and then fixed again in V1.0.28! :wtf:

I agree, it's infuriating that they don't provide a change log!

Chris
« Last Edit: October 02, 2017, 10:09:06 pm by Gyro »
Best Regards, Chris
 

Offline MrSllez

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #202 on: October 23, 2017, 05:04:13 pm »
I was thinking on buying this oscilloscope and would need some advice. I am from Slovenia, currently studying mehatronics (combination of electro, computer and mechanical science). In my free time I also work with microcontrollers, audio equipment (amplifiers) and ocessional other projects and repairs.

I have been wanting oscilloscope for some time now, and checked the forums for advice. I saw that a beginner should rather get an used scope, but the cheapest decent scope I can get used is a TEKTRONIX 2213 for 180 euro. The thing is that I live in a campus and go home by bus every weekend, so I would need something portable.

Would an OWON 1022I suit me well? I can get it for 105 euro from ebay. How good is the overall build quality? How good is the current software? Any thoughts appreciated.
 

Offline AmadeusMozart

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #203 on: November 15, 2017, 01:56:52 am »
I have been using my Owon VDS1022 (non insulated one) for audio purposes. I wasted a few days trying to find a problem with an amplifier that did not exist: normally when testing a new build a 1kHz square wave is used and the shape is studied. The wave exhibited considerable ripple suggesting some accidental oscillation. When I increased the frequency then at approx 7 kHz the square wave shape had completely disappeared and showed up as a sinus wave. Same thing happened with a triangular signal. At certain high frequencies the signal seemed to become unstable like it was triggering some parasitic oscillation. In the end an analog oscilloscope (genuine tube based) showed that these artifacts reside in the digital oscilloscope. Now that I know this it does not bother me but I would not advise to purchase a digital oscilloscope for high end audio work. Morgan Jones in his books is of the same opinion. Eventually digital oscilloscopes will become (or already are) good enough but at what price? For repair and adjusting (e.g. bias or phase inverters) I can get away with this cheap oscilloscope and it is far better than having no oscilloscope.

Hope this helps someone. AM

Edit 31 December 2017: The above is wrong - the square wave generated by a PC was the culprit, using the square wave from the Owon Oscilloscope itself  gives a perfect result and I now wonder about some ground interaction from the PC.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2017, 05:37:26 am by AmadeusMozart »
 

Offline GyroTopic starter

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #204 on: November 15, 2017, 10:57:49 am »
@AM: No, sorry, you've got something seriously screwy in your setup there. There's no way that it can't reproduce a clean 7kHz square wave (see attached)- it's not even breaking a sweat (12.5Msps). Maybe you can post more details of your setup, screenshots, scope setting etc. Thinking about the ripple at 1kHz, did you properly adjust the compensation of your scope probes?

P.S. Of course there's always going to be an issue measuring distortion characteristics of high-end audio components with any 8 bit resolution scope (I use a 16bit resoluton one myself for -90dB'ish level measurements), but being able to display decent sine, square and triangle waves isn't one of them. Morgan Jones (remember he was writing a while back now), recommended a minimum of 100Msps scope in order to be able to catch high frequency parasitic oscillations.

EDIT: For reference I have added a 700kHz squarewave. Function generator rise and fall times beginning to show (Spec'd at <35ns).
« Last Edit: November 15, 2017, 04:02:33 pm by Gyro »
Best Regards, Chris
 
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Offline arcnor

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #205 on: December 21, 2017, 08:10:02 am »
I'm not sure if my issue is the same that AmadeusMozart reported, but I'm seeing very strange behavior from the scope, that I hope can be fixed by some misconfiguration on my part (or maybe I just misunderstand something).

I have 2 signals generated by an Arduino. The pins are high for 4 seconds, then low for another 4.

However, this is what I see in my scope (attached, channel 2 goes through a resistor, hence the small amplitude).

Can somebody explain why I don't see a (very slow) square signal?
 

Online tautech

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #206 on: December 21, 2017, 08:18:22 am »
I'm not sure if my issue is the same that AmadeusMozart reported, but I'm seeing very strange behavior from the scope, that I hope can be fixed by some misconfiguration on my part (or maybe I just misunderstand something).

I have 2 signals generated by an Arduino. The pins are high for 4 seconds, then low for another 4.

However, this is what I see in my scope (attached, channel 2 goes through a resistor, hence the small amplitude).

Can somebody explain why I don't see a (very slow) square signal?
Change the channel input coupling to DC and leave it there. AC coupling is only needed for viewing signals with a large DC offset.
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Offline arcnor

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #207 on: December 21, 2017, 09:34:56 am »
Change the channel input coupling to DC and leave it there. AC coupling is only needed for viewing signals with a large DC offset.

You are of course right, thanks! I need to learn a lot :).
 

Offline phord

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #208 on: December 25, 2017, 07:32:56 pm »
I just received the VDS1022I as a Christmas gift.  I haven't run Windows in years, though.  I'm trying to get the software to run on Linux, but having only bad luck.  I can load static captures but I can't connect to the USB interface via libUsbJava.   Has anyone got it working yet?

I'm a C++ engineer, but I can read and hack at Java sometimes.  I'm willing to help if someone needs it.
 

Offline arcnor

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #209 on: December 25, 2017, 07:53:12 pm »
There is a repository that explains how to make it work on OSX, and there is also a ticket mentioning Debian (https://github.com/tinwhisker/Owen-VDS1022/issues/4).

I also started converting the source to a modern alternative (usb4java or similar) but got too many problems, so didn't finish it.

Hopefully that will help you to make it work
 

Offline AmadeusMozart

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #210 on: December 31, 2017, 12:33:06 am »
@Gyro

Thanks for the reply and apologies for the late reply.

I used the square wave from the Owon oscilloscope itself and that made the difference. It appears that the output from the square wave generated by the PC was the culprit.

I recently obtained on the local auctio website at a very reasoanable price an older distortion factor meter (only four and a half million people in New Zealand so not that much interest in test gear). Replaced two electrolytic capacitors in the power supply that had dried out and have had lots of fun with the Owon scope and the DFM. The DFM is a cheap way to measure the total noise figure of a tube amplifier - I can measure over -90dB which is good enough (for me). The non-insulated model VDS1022 has been very usefull and is imho a bargain (and the price seems to be dropping at the moment).
« Last Edit: December 31, 2017, 05:31:28 am by AmadeusMozart »
 

Offline GyroTopic starter

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #211 on: December 31, 2017, 11:45:13 am »
Glad you got it sorted and found the culprit!  :-+ ... and a good score on the distortion factor meter, it sounds as if you've got yourself a nice useable setup now.

If you're worried about PC ground loops (isn't everybody! ::)) then you could look at picking up a cheapish external USB isolator as an alternative to populating the internal PCB isolation components. We established earlier in the thread that both the isolated and non isolated versions use USB 'Full Speed' rather than 'High Speed' so are within the capabilities of the ADUM3160/4160 based ones (ADUM3160 is what is fitted internally on the 'I' version). These isolators look to be around the $10 mark from China now... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=usb+isolator&_sop=15

The only issue you might see is their supply current capability. The isolated DC-DC converter inside the 1022I is rated at 2W, the cheap isolators look like they might be only 1W. If it's a problem you could either do a little surgery and patch on a 2W DC-DC, or alternatively hook in a regulated 5V from an isolated power brick the power the scope side.

Just a thought.

Edit: I just heard on the radio that New Zealand was the first country to celebrate the New Year (probably not for the first time! :D). A Happy New Year to you, we still have 11.5 hours to go!
« Last Edit: December 31, 2017, 12:28:35 pm by Gyro »
Best Regards, Chris
 

Offline AmadeusMozart

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #212 on: January 01, 2018, 12:16:02 am »
If you're worried about PC ground loops (isn't everybody! ::)) then you could look at picking up a cheapish external USB isolator as an alternative to populating the internal PCB isolation components. We established earlier in the thread that both the isolated and non isolated versions use USB 'Full Speed' rather than 'High Speed' so are within the capabilities of the ADUM3160/4160 based ones (ADUM3160 is what is fitted internally on the 'I' version). These isolators look to be around the $10 mark from China now... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=usb+isolator&_sop=15
There are interfaces that provide a DC feed

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Low-noise-USB-Isolator-short-circuit-protection-ADUM4160-Hifi-JTAG-isolation/112195970923?hash=item1a1f66a76b:g:3AUAAOSwPgxVL63g

However having "grown up" with tube oscilloscopes I do not worry about the isolation. And since I am using a laptop if it is really needed then I can disconnect the laptop from everything else and cover the Owon to protect against touching and then I can use it at a floating level. I'll also be like the Chinese and then use white cotton gloves as an extra attempt against accidentally touching bare metal.

Edit: I just heard on the radio that New Zealand was the first country to celebrate the New Year (probably not for the first time! :D). A Happy New Year to you, we still have 11.5 hours to go!

Happy New year and best wishes for 2018
Marinus
« Last Edit: January 01, 2018, 12:18:04 am by AmadeusMozart »
 
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Offline eevmike

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #213 on: February 14, 2018, 10:40:24 pm »
My thanks to everyone for this thread.  I was looking at the Hantek and now will certainly go with the OWON instead.

- Mike
 
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Offline VitaliyKrym

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #214 on: February 17, 2018, 02:44:45 pm »
Just bought the VDS1022.
Could not get steady picture on screen. Like no trigger.
Somehow the U12 is not installed. Just empty spot.
After I connect 110VAC via 10:1 probe I had BOOM. Is result my computer is dead (MB, SSD,HDD), on the oscilloscope board jumpers R105, R103 and R90 exploded. No other visible damages.
I replaced them with 10ohm resistors for safety reason. Now on board side it shows 0.3 ohm.
Any idea if it is still possible to fix? What should I check next?
Board is Ver 1.4
 

Offline GyroTopic starter

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #215 on: February 17, 2018, 05:41:30 pm »
I do not mean to seem unkind on your first post, but it is said out of concern. Connecting a scope probe input directly across the mains was a really stupid thing to do! You are not the first newbie to do it though, the mains seems like a magnet to some people :palm:! You should feel very lucky that you didn't do yourself serious harm! Equipment is replaceable, you are not.

Please refer to this video of Dave's to understand what you did...

https://youtu.be/xaELqAo4kkQ


The same bang would have occurred whatever scope you used. You were unlucky enough to be using a USB one, which extended the damage to the PC too. The USB isolated version (the VDS1022I) would have protected the scope and the PC from damage, but you would still have been at serious risk of electric shock, shorting the mains with your ground clip probably saved you from that. From your list, it sounds like an expensive lesson.

It's very hard to predict what on your scope has been damaged - the mains current will have passed through the ground clip of your scope probe, through the circuit board and via the ground signal of the USB interface to your PC motherboard and the PC Earth connection.

Given the level of damage to the PC, I would expect a similar level of damage to the VDS1022. I would suspect that the chip associated with the USB interface has also been destroyed. I don't know what you are measuring when you say "Now on board side it shows 0.3 ohm." or whether you have replaced the exploded resistors with the correct values. There is no published schematic, so it is difficult to specify individual component IDs that might be affected (I do not have the same board Rev as you). Maybe you can post a photo showing those resistor locations.

If you check that none of the pins of the USB connector (apart from the ground pin) are shorted to ground, then you might try connecting it to the PC and seeing if it is recognized. PC USB ports are quite well protected (apart from shorting mains into them!), but unplug at the first sign of an error message. The driver will need to be installed of course.

If the VDS1022 is still recognized then it should be possible to start testing other functions using a safe signal source., eg, the probe calibration output or a cheap ebay function generator. Given the cost you have already incurred, I would recommend getting the USB isolated version (which still won't make it safe to scope the mains, but will protect the PC from accidentally introducing large low voltage currents via the ground clips).


Edit: I have been re-reading your post and am finding it a bit confusing when you say "just bought" - are you saying that you already have it working again after damaging it with the mains short and are now having triggering problems? If so, were you having them when you first got it?
« Last Edit: February 17, 2018, 06:38:16 pm by Gyro »
Best Regards, Chris
 
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Offline VitaliyKrym

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #216 on: February 17, 2018, 07:31:21 pm »
I'm not newbie but what I did was really stupid. I don't you scope much. I did not realize the 10:1 probe has one simple resistor and ground goes direct. 0.3 \$\Omega\$measured between 0 and 5v chips supply. The reason I need to see 110/220V. I bought device should be supply 220V 50Hz. and I'm making inverter to meet my needs.
Originally exploded resistors are 0 \$\Omega\$. I put 10 \$\Omega\$ for testing. So all 5V drops across this resistors.
After I bought it I tested in with low voltage signal and found out that picture is no steady. Connected to USB3.0 it cannot be even seen. Much better on USB2.0. And it nothing changes with different trigger level. Would it be possible  the U12 was not install during manufacturing and as result not steady picture. If you give me your e-mail I can send full size board pictures.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2018, 07:45:59 pm by VitaliyKrym »
 

Offline GyroTopic starter

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #217 on: February 17, 2018, 08:16:59 pm »
Ok, I get the picture, I think...

I managed to located R105 at least on one of Mark_O's photos of his Rev 1.4 board (bottom of page 1 of this thread), it is one of the resistors that links the board ground to the USB ground - it bypasses the gap in the grounds that would be there on the isolated model.

If R105 blew open then all of the mains current will have passed through the logic ICs and supply regulators to the USB signal lines and USB Vbus line to the PC. At the very least this will have destroyed the USB interface logic (inside the CPU) and probably most of the rest of the logic, regulators etc. The 0.3 Ohms that you are reading between +5V and 0V is probably the resistance of your meter leads, the board is probably dead short. I don't see any possibility of salvaging the board in these circumstances - it is fried! [Edit: Slight correction, from your photos... R105 is in the 5V USB supply, R90 and R103 are the USB ground link, from the scorch marks, the ground obviously went first, then the +5V, then the USB signals, that was severe!]

It is too late to understand your triggering problems now, it could well have been a settings issue, trigger level / source etc. It wouldn't have been a USB speed related issue as the VDS1022 only requires low USB speed (USB Full speed, not High Speed).

Regarding U12 being missing, this is an analogue video sync separator chip, only used for video mode triggering. I'm not sure why it wasn't fitted, maybe they removed this functionality, I don't know, it was fitted Mark's Rev 1.4 board. As I say, it wouldn't be needed of any normal triggering modes so wouldn't have been the cause of your problem anyway.

There's obviously no way now to check what trigger settings might have been wrong, or even using the 'autoset' function now, sorry.

Maybe you could talk to Owon about having a board with missing U12, they might be generous about the damage issue.


Edit: I have now seen the photos you added, thanks. It confirms my diagnosis above - there was a lot of current involved.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2018, 08:41:35 pm by Gyro »
Best Regards, Chris
 

Offline VitaliyKrym

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #218 on: February 18, 2018, 12:56:05 pm »
Thank you for your answer.
I knew the damage is big, at least MC is gone. It is easy to replace it but where to get firmware for it  :-//
Looks like I will get replacement for it (cross fingers) and I don't want to destroy it as well. So here are few questions related to this.
What other differences between 1022 and 1022I exept U37 and U9? What I found else I have metalized sides of board unlike others. This makes oscilloscope case grounded. I was lucky I did not hold it in hands. The strange thing this is same board version.
So on my replacement (if I get it) Im going to install U9 and U37, remove 8 resistors and isolate board from case. Anything else?
I need to be able to see the form of 220V inverter output. VDS1022I rated 400V.
About OWON.
I tried to contact them with no answer.
 

Offline GyroTopic starter

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #219 on: February 18, 2018, 03:00:27 pm »
You're welcome, sorry it wasn't a more hopeful one. I think it is still Chinese New Year holiday at the moment, so I wouldn't expect a fast answer from Owon.

Even if you could get a replacement microcontroller, I wouldn't be surprised to find wider damage from the mains voltage passing across the chip, eg. The FPGA, or ADC.

Yes, the 'non-Isolated and Isolated versions share the same PCB. The main differences, as you found, are U37 - ADuM3160 USB Isolator,  U9 - TI DCP020505P 2W DC-DC converter, and removing the components that bypass them. There are some supply decoupling capacitors around U37 but I think they are populated by default - check the chip datasheet.

I'm not sure about costs - particularly sourcing the DC-DC converter. I remember someone did their own conversion earlier in the thread but not sure how much they saved relative to the VDS1022 / VDS1022I purchase price difference. There is also the warranty (3yrs?) to consider.

As you have worked out, the metal case is connected to the BNC connector shields, so yes, it would have become live (I would have hoped that a circuit breaker would have popped by that point, given the level of damage).

I need to be very clear here... The USB isolation is there to protect the scope and the PC against accidental high current ground loops (at low voltage) and to reduce noise pickup from ground loops. Even though the isolation components do have high voltage ratings, it is not intended for floating the scope ground at high voltages! - I would be very stupid to advise you otherwise. Accidents can happen all too easily, as you have found, even when experienced. You could still suffer a very nasty bang and live case if, say, you accidentally connected the ground clip of one probe to Live and the ground clip of the other to Neutral! From your replies, I think you have a good understanding of the risks.

The safe way to scope around mains is with a CAT rated high voltage differential probe... or one of those fancy Fluke portable scopes with individually isolated channels.


P.S. From your second reply it looks as if you are trying to make an "inverter" to power a 220V 50Hz device - I don't know what the device is, but wouldn't a simple step-up transformer do? If it's a 50Hz / 60Hz issue then most things don't care - particularly running a 50Hz device at 60Hz as you are less likely to run into transformer core saturation issues than going to a lower frequency. You ought to be able to sort out phasing on something like that with a meter. Just a thought.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2018, 03:15:00 pm by Gyro »
Best Regards, Chris
 

Offline VitaliyKrym

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #220 on: February 18, 2018, 03:29:21 pm »
Then why yours vds1022I is rated 400V input voltage (so you ARE able to apply 220v to 10:1 probes) and what is the reason to supply 10:1 probes (600V rated) with VDS1022 (rated 40V) which has 5v/div without devider. Would I have same damages if connected to laptop(not grounded)? Would you recommend me simple schematic of high voltage devider I can use with 220VAC?
Looks like I had 50% chance to destroy it and I took it by connecting ground clip to "L". If I connected it to "N"... To late anyway.
 

Offline GyroTopic starter

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #221 on: February 18, 2018, 07:04:39 pm »
I agree, the spec is confusing - I understand it as 40V peak input protection at the BNC, 400V peak with the included 10:1 probe. I don't know why they choose to specify it differently for the two scopes - they are obviously the same analogue front end circuits.

Quote
....(so you ARE able to apply 220v to 10:1 probes) and what is the reason to supply 10:1 probes (600V rated)...

Sure you are, although I wouldn't want to push the limits of low cost Chinese scope probes too close to their limits - That's NOT the same as connecting it to the Mains though. Most scopes are not CAT rated for mains use... Prospective fault energy (you should know about that by now!), transients etc. That rated voltage is probe tip relative to the ground clip - you have no safe place to put the ground clip if you are scoping mains! There's no guarantee that the Neutral is at the same potential as Earth (Ground), especially in supply fault or transient conditions.

Quote
Would I have same damages if connected to laptop(not grounded)?

Yes, the same unsafe situation - if you accidentally connect the ground clip to Live then all exposed metalwork on the laptop (connector shells etc) become live too. That is why the old practice of lifting the mains ground wires on bench scopes is also forbidden.

USB isolation and floating laptop are both used as methods of breaking ground loops to reduce measurement noise or protecting the equipment against damage from reasonable fault situations. Unfortunately any possibility of connecting the ground clip to Mains Live is NOT a reasonable fault situation!

Quote
Would you recommend me simple schematic of high voltage devider I can use with 220VAC?

This is where the High Voltage Differential Probe comes in, as I indicated previously. It has two 'tip' inputs and no ground clip. It safely translates the difference between the inputs into a signal suitable for feeding into grounded scopes. They carry the appropriate CAT safety ratings.


Direct scoping of the mains is a pretty uncommon thing to do. People who do it are usually equipped with the appropriately CAT rated equipment eg. at least CAT II, 300V for your situation. (MOST scopes are not CAT safety rated). When working on mains equipment an alternative is to use a mains safety isolating transformer to power the DUT (Device under Test), this has it's own risks but the rule is that you always use the isolating transformer to power the DUT, not the test equipment. Using an isolating transformer carries its own risks and need for precautions.

Please review the "How not to blow up your scope" video that I linked (I seem to be doing all the work here) - it covers most of the issues we are talking about here. There are many other safety related threads (including use of Safety Isolation transformers) if you do a forum search.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2018, 07:16:29 pm by Gyro »
Best Regards, Chris
 

Offline fourtytwo42

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #222 on: March 12, 2018, 04:35:31 pm »
Just noticed OWON VDS1022 software revision increased from 1.0.27 to 1.0.28 not sure when it happened, no revision history, downloaded it and have yet to spot the differance :)
 

Offline Daruosha

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #223 on: March 12, 2018, 05:41:30 pm »
Just noticed OWON VDS1022 software revision increased from 1.0.27 to 1.0.28 not sure when it happened, no revision history, downloaded it and have yet to spot the differance :)

Perhaps they just fixed a Chinese word spelling and released a new minor release. They are the most laziest T&M manufacture when it comes to supporting and improving their firmwares and softwares.

I don't understand why people buy their stuff and how they are still in the business.
 
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Offline GyroTopic starter

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Re: OWON VDS1022I Quick Teardown (versus the Hantek 6022be)
« Reply #224 on: March 12, 2018, 09:08:12 pm »
Just noticed OWON VDS1022 software revision increased from 1.0.27 to 1.0.28 not sure when it happened, no revision history, downloaded it and have yet to spot the differance :)

This version got first got flagged by Nullarbour back in October last year (Reply #211). The main difference seems to be to repair a bug in skin selection that they screwed up in 1.0.27, which previously worked fine! ...

...
The difference in graphics that you show is due to the Black skin being used rather than the Blue one (it can be changed at the top of the Utilities panel). Ironically the only difference I've found so far (versus V1.0.23) is that changing the skin setting seems to have been broken in V1.0.27 and then fixed again in V1.0.28! :wtf:
...

I've been running V1.0.28 since then without significant problems - I think I encountered a crash when trying to stop and save an image. I can't remember the detail now but it don't think it happened on V1.0.23.

I have copies of the released (there are gaps) s/w distributions going back to V1.0.4 if anyone wants to play detective (it's interesting to open the .exe files as archives using 7zip or whatever and look inside). I don't think it's worth using anything before V1.0.23 which I've never found a bug in,  V1.0.11 at the very earliest (that one, I know, fixed a menu bug that I reported), V1.0.27 as I said, has the skin selection bug.

It really is annoying that they don't publish a change log!


EDIT: I may as well upload anyway - it would be useful if a few other people also had backups in case of loss. Run whatever scans you feel appropriate, I've run AVG and Malwarebytes on them....

https://ufile.io/70a4d  (Available for 30 days)
« Last Edit: March 12, 2018, 11:05:29 pm by Gyro »
Best Regards, Chris
 
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