Products > Test Equipment

Replacement Knobs, Feet and Fittings for Test Equipment

<< < (48/48)

Le_Bassiste:
tautech suggested to post this here: Feet for FLUKE 540B, and FLUKE343A, FLUKE 5450A and alike.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/chassis-feet-for-fluke-540b-and-fluke-343a/



dl6lr:
Vintage hp test equipment feet (i.e. 5245L, 5345A etc.)

Those feet have a spring loaded pushbutton to install/release the feet. I redesigned a functional but simplified foot that can be installed from the inside only using a M2.5 8mm socket head cap screw (sorry, no idea what kind of imperial screw can be used). A button head can be used too.
I already have an idea how a simple spring loaded push button could be made with standard parts, but springs that would fit are hard to find.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5142216

STL and OpenSCAD file included in ZIP.

CatalinaWOW:
Rainy days made for several models.

First for Tektronix 465 Oscilloscope (and probably several others in the series.)
  a.  Bezel for the CRT
  b.  Trigger level knob
  c.  Trigger slope knob
  d.  Horizontal position
  e.  Fine horizontal position

I didn't have the original aluminum collars for these so designed them around standard set screw collars from McMaster-Carr.  Part number 6432K71 for the trigger slope knob and the horizontal fine position knob and part number 6432K17 for the other two knobs.  Unfortunately the inner diameter is not correct on these collars and must be drilled out to match.  I also had to chase the set screw threads after drilling, YMMV.  I used Gorilla Gel CA to mount the collars in the knobs, but there are many good adhesive choices.

Also learned that the SC-504 knob core mentioned earlier in the thread works in the Tektronix 2230 and probably several others in that series.  Included the stl here.  There is another thread on the forum describing how to make the transparent skirt that has the gain legends.

Enjoy

By the way these knobs were generated for the 475 shown.  But I didn't have originals so they were patterned after 465 knobs that I did have.

MarkF:
Rigol DS1000Z replacement feet:

The original feet have little detents to keep them open or closed and I believe the stress of these detents caused the feet to break.  My replacement feet are smooth and don't have the detents.  Because of this, I scraped off the small ridge on the case under each foot.

I printed them with a fine layer height and 50% infill.


Moved from 3D Printing topic

xrunner:
Replacement range button for Boonton Model 42A and similar models.

These can be painted with glossy acrylic model paint if you wish, such as Tamiya X-1

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/acrylic-paint-mini-10ml/acrylic-mini-x-1-black/

Use a toothpick to place the dot using white paint, such as Tamiya XF-2

I'm posting some addendums, the first is showing what some final finishing can do for your 3D printed parts (mainly the parts that will show). I finished the button by sanding and priming (3 times). Then painting with Tamiya X-1 gloss black. I made the dot with Tamiya XF-2 flat white. The 3D finished button is on the left and the original right. It's nearly impossible to tell which is which once installed and the front bezel in place.

So just some finishing to your part, if it's one that needs to be "museum quality" can make a huge difference.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page

There was an error while thanking
Thanking...
Go to full version