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Replacing OLED screen on an Agilent U1253A Multimeter

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antdes45:
My U1253B display managed to go dim even with the DMM living in it's carrying case and being only used <10h a year. Keysight has no excuses for this.

I tried the LC-Design LC-OL12864-09-YO-AG replacement module mentioned somewhere in the thread.

https://lcdstore.de/epages/17406888.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/17406888/Products/LC-OL12864-09-YO-AG

The online store doesn't ship outside Germany but they sent me a PayPal invoice when asking by email.

Got it shipped to Canada for 81,95 EUR, took 21 days to reach home, 15 minutes to install and my display is now nice and bright again. Haven't noticed any weird quirks, and dimming doesn't change much just like the original OLED display.

exe:
It's a very interesting story for me, a non-EE guy, how important availability of spare parts for end-users who whant to keep their equipment in service for longer than a warranty period. Some parts go out of production very quickly. Now I see why Keithley used a less-than-exciting display in their DM6500: they used a part which they can source for a long time (there is a thread about DM6500 on this forum).

2N3055:

--- Quote from: exe on March 25, 2021, 08:01:11 am ---It's a very interesting story for me, a non-EE guy, how important availability of spare parts for end-users who whant to keep their equipment in service for longer than a warranty period. Some parts go out of production very quickly. Now I see why Keithley used a less-than-exciting display in their DM6500: they used a part which they can source for a long time (there is a thread about DM6500 on this forum).

--- End quote ---

There are noname meters on which LCD screen is perfectly fine after 30 years or more. Not to mention good brands..
OLED is crap, they have limited lifetime by specification, just everybody ignores that fact. And being organic, chemicals can decompose, even without working.. So, yes, OLED screens look cool and have better visibility in some situations, but they are not meant to last.
If longevity and battery consumption is important, go with LCD.

marcopolo:
 :-+

kkontak:
I friend had problems with an Agilent U153A and asked me to find a way to fix it.
(Sorry Jonh for the delay...)

The original yellow OLED display was very very dim.

I followed the idea from Alexej Krom (with a twist) and worked well enough. Thanks Alexej.
http://www.alexej-krom.de/replacing-the-oled-ssd1303-display-with-ssd1305/

I found a pin compatible green display with SSD1305 controller, from ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-2-4-inch-128x64-OLED-Display-Module-I2C-Serial-SPI-SSD1305-w-Tutorial-/291844721833?hash=item43f34d0ca9&tfrom=301226745140&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal

The unsoldering and soldering the new one was almost easy... Nothing broke. I had more trouble positioning the display to match the front window.

I tried first an old UV EPROM that I had in hand but it was too slow and could not follow up the MCU control signals.

I used a different FLASH memory at 5V, SST39SF020A-70-4C-NHE PLCC-32, from ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123259658853
It was not a big surprise, it arrived with some BIOS firmware as a bonus!

I programmed it with a mini programmer from ebay called TL866CS and the optional PLCC32 adapter.
Worked great.

I used the 5V level signals side to make the soldering easier. Thats the reason I used the 5V FLASH.
The FLASH datasheet says it has 10mA consumption. Will see how much faster it drains the battery.

The mirror image was fixed and only some artifacts in the lower side of the display are shown when the fast moving bar graph is displayed and only in some screens. The readings and the other graphics are not affected.
I don't see any vertical line offset like others are mentioning.

OLED and Memory total, about $20.00.

Here are some pics and the schematics.

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