Restoration glory of Keithley 2001 DMM

[macboy]

Hope it helps.

Should be no problems to get it working. I had only issue finding programming tool which can write those few bytes into DS1245/44/45/48Y

Which tool do you use? Software looks like TL866 but not exactly same as mine.

Nevermind.... I see that you are using TL866, and you selected DS1230 which appears as a R/W EEPROM, not DS1245, which shows up as SRAM, which can't be read or written to, just tested. I guess I'll need to rig up a socket adapter to convert the 28 pin to 32 pin properly.

[TiN]

Yes, TL866 cannot write 1245's I sent mail to vendor to add support for bigger DALLAS NVRAMs, but got no reply or progress .
To write DS1245's I used another programmer at work.

[macboy]

Yes, TL866 cannot write 1245's I sent mail to vendor to add support for bigger DALLAS NVRAMs, but got no reply or progress .
To write DS1245's I used another programmer at work.

I will write them an e-mail too. It should not be difficult for them to do since the DS1230 (32k) is already supported.

I took a DIP socket and connected the DS1245 Vcc to the DS1230 Vcc pin (N/C on DS1245), and I wired up a 2-position DIP switch to select 0/1 for Address bits 16,17. Then I can put the DS1245 into the socket, the socket into the TL866, and I can use the DS1230 device in TL866 software to read/write the DS1245, but only one 32 kB block at a time. I cleared the memory, programmed the serial number, and it works perfectly. Previously, the meter indicated MEM2 installed, but would not save setups, and would not restore the reading memory. Now I can save/restore 10 setups, and I have a 128 kB non-volatile readings memory. Fantastic.

The only issue I noticed is that my DS1245 is likely counterfeit. I say this because the pin spacing is slightly too tight (<0.1000"). It will fit fine in a normal spring-contact IC socket, like the one in the K2001, but does not fit into a machine-pin socket; the pins at the ends of the IC bend and it just won't go in without damage. Oh well, that's what you get for buying from Chinese ebay sellers. It was cheap and it works, so 

[timb]

Hey guys, I just picked up a Keithley 2000 for a steal on eBay. Does anyone with a 2000 or 2001 parts unit have an “amps jack” from the front panel they could sell me? (You know, the one you twist out to get to the fuse.) Aside from applying some retr0bright to the front panel, that’s the only thing this little guy needs! (By the way, I think this is the part number: JACK, CURRENT INPUT; 2001-312D)

[Jf2014]

Hey guys, I just picked up a Keithley 2000 for a steal on eBay. Does anyone with a 2000 or 2001 parts unit have an “amps jack” from the front panel they could sell me? (You know, the one you twist out to get to the fuse.) Aside from applying some retr0bright to the front panel, that’s the only thing this little guy needs! (By the way, I think this is the part number: JACK, CURRENT INPUT; 2001-312D)

hi
I purchased direct from Keithley Service (Germany) - JACK, CURRENT INPUT ;2001-312 price 9,00 EUR

[KJDS]

Hey guys, I just picked up a Keithley 2000 for a steal on eBay. Does anyone with a 2000 or 2001 parts unit have an “amps jack” from the front panel they could sell me? (You know, the one you twist out to get to the fuse.) Aside from applying some retr0bright to the front panel, that’s the only thing this little guy needs! (By the way, I think this is the part number: JACK, CURRENT INPUT; 2001-312D)

hi
I purchased direct from Keithley Service (Germany) - JACK, CURRENT INPUT ;2001-312 price 9,00 EUR

It's worth checking to see if the case is damaged,  there's a tiny lug in the plastic hole that holds the "amps jack" in place. If that is broken then you may need to improvise an alternative fixing. I'm assuming that it is the same as the 2015THD.

[timb]

Yeah the molded portion of the front panel that holds it in place is alright. (It actually came with the jack, but all the plastic was torn to hell on the jack, like someone had used pliers to open it.)


Sent from my Smartphone

[timb]

Hey guys, I just picked up a Keithley 2000 for a steal on eBay. Does anyone with a 2000 or 2001 parts unit have an “amps jack” from the front panel they could sell me? (You know, the one you twist out to get to the fuse.) Aside from applying some retr0bright to the front panel, that’s the only thing this little guy needs! (By the way, I think this is the part number: JACK, CURRENT INPUT; 2001-312D)

hi
I purchased direct from Keithley Service (Germany) - JACK, CURRENT INPUT ;2001-312 price 9,00 EUR

Spot on man. I just got an email back from Keithley; $11 for a replacement, with a $30 minimum order. So maybe I'll go ahead and get those 2x4 Wire probes for my DMM4020.


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[JayGee]

Also struggling with  2001.
Here are my cct's.
Added layout of A/D as mine did not have all components marked.
Hope it helps.

[TiN]

Good job, JayGee.

What are the issues with yours 2001?
Can I rehost your schematics on my site as well?

[mimmus78]

@timb
do you still need this white jack?
It should cost me 2 eur to ship it (and hope it will arrive) to US from a K2000 donor ...

[timb]

@timb
do you still need this white jack?
It should cost me 2 eur to ship it (and hope it will arrive) to US from a K2000 donor ...

I do! PM me your email and I'll PayPal you shipping and a few bucks for your time. (Tektronix has a $30 minimum order, so this will still be cheaper.)


Sent from my Smartphone

[mimmus78]

I do! PM me your email and I'll PayPal you shipping and a few bucks for your time. (Tektronix has a $30 minimum order, so this will still be cheaper.)

Hi Tim. I will be out for a travel up to the end of next week. As soon as back I will arrange the shipment. Just pm me if I forget :-P

[Jaap]

"Error: ID code = 510     Reading buffer data lost" message after adding MEM 2

As I said in september (how times flies) I would like to upgrade my 2001 with the MEM 2 option as described by TiN on September 24. Yesterday I received my TL866A programmer from China, the DS1245Y was already waiting for that. The DS1245Y chip cannot be programmed yet, so I did it like macboy described on September 26th, thanks for the tip. I did not use DIP switches though, I connected pin 2 (A16) and pin 31 (A15) to pin 16 (GND) on a prepared socket. See pictures.

After insertion in the 2001 all is OK. I now have 10 settings I can store. I checked all ten.

But there is an extra message at startup. Just after the "Calibration due" message, I get a "Error: ID code = 510     Reading buffer data lost" message. It disappears in one second and the 2001 functions normal as far as I can see. I looked at the Error: ID code list in the Calibration Manual, but that does not go higher then +440 (the + is not in my message, neither a - ).
Question now is, what to do next. Someone who can help?

And TiN, just like you I added two zeroes at location 7 , just after the serial number. Is that the way to do it? I did not read anything about that.

[macboy]

"Error: ID code = 510     Reading buffer data lost" message after adding MEM 2

As I said in september (how times flies) I would like to upgrade my 2001 with the MEM 2 option as described by TiN on September 24. Yesterday I received my TL866A programmer from China, the DS1245Y was already waiting for that. The DS1245Y chip cannot be programmed yet, so I did it like macboy described on September 26th, thanks for the tip. I did not use DIP switches though, I connected pin 2 (A16) and pin 31 (A15) to pin 16 (GND) on a prepared socket. See pictures.

After insertion in the 2001 all is OK. I now have 10 settings I can store. I checked all ten.

But there is an extra message at startup. Just after the "Calibration due" message, I get a "Error: ID code = 510     Reading buffer data lost" message. It disappears in one second and the 2001 functions normal as far as I can see. I looked at the Error: ID code list in the Calibration Manual, but that does not go higher then +440 (the + is not in my message, neither a - ).
Question now is, what to do next. Someone who can help?

And TiN, just like you I added two zeroes at location 7 , just after the serial number. Is that the way to do it? I did not read anything about that.

Glad to know that my tip helped.

To get rid of the Reading buffer data lost error, you need to initialize the reading buffer memory. You can either store some readings, or clear the buffer. To clear the buffer, press CONFIG, STORE, and select CLEAR-ALL in the menu. Or just press STORE and ENTER to store some readings.

[TiN]

Yes, macboy is the man. MEM2 for everyone. I tried writing Miniprog email to add support DS1245, 1243, 1248 and 1251 but they had no reply .

Meantime I am getting up my references to make 2V and 20V standards for calibration of my 2001s and 2002.

[Jaap]

macboy, you are perfect. Thanks again. Finally my DMM is ready for calibration. Don't know when or where, but I hope a colleague radio amateur I know, still works at the Navy Calibration Lab here in the Netherlands. Will keep this list updated. Happy hobby days,      Jaap

[TiN]

Just in case anybody want jump into this , there is a broken 2001 for sale on bay. No power on, pretty old serial number, so lots of problems might be there. Or can be as simple as broken fuse or VFD screen.

[mimmus78]

@Tin nobody reply but everybody is going to bid on it :-) 

[ManateeMafia]

Thanks to TiN and JayGee for the info I needed for restoring one of my 2001s.

I recently pulled out the meter from storage and found JayGee's diagrams from the previous page. Before storage, I replaced the leaking caps on the main board but I had several errors.
These were 407.1,410.1,411.1, and 411.2. They all had in common U505:Q8. I found a couple of problems with this circuit. U505 had already been swimming in electrolyte. There was damage to the pcb around this part. I replaced it and cleaned up the area. I was able to find R576 had a burnt area around the resistor. I replaced that resistor from a second board. Upon further t/s, I found that a hairline trace under R576 that lead to CR512 had burnt open. This was easily verified from U505:11 to CR512 on top of the board. I fixed the trace under R576 and retested the meter.

All tests pass fine now and I am looking forward to fixing the second unit. Hopefully I can fill in the dime sized hole and add bodge wires between traces. If not, I can keep it as a parts unit.
The A/D converter board also fails. It originally came from the working meter. It appears that there is excessive noise somewhere in the converter.

[Galaxyrise]

I am attempting a similar repair and seek some advice before doing anything too drastic.  Leaked electrolyte, like so many others.  Attached are pictures from right after I removed the parts and then after I removed a bunch of char.  On the CR513 picture, the right pad has been lifted up, revealing significant charring below.  I fear the same is true of the other pad, given how it looked before cleaning.  I don't feel confident that I've removed all the char from between the traces in the C117 area.  You can see an exposed inner layer trace there, too.

I'm wondering if I should drill out the affected board areas?  There's not too many traces in the C117 area, but there's a lot of stuff going on around CR513.  Or is there a better way to restore the integrity of the board?

[ManateeMafia]

I am also trying to repair under C117. The problem is that there are traces below the surface. I had at least two inner layer traces burnt in half. My board seemed to have as much damage as yours (if not more). When I started to cut out the burnt areas, it became apparent that the damage covered a bigger area.

When I removed the bad caps on the newly repaired meter, I took some pics in front of a bright light to get an idea where the traces connected. I drew some colored lines to map them out.

I started working on repairs yesterday and I am not sure if I can remove all the char. It is worth the effort now that I have one functional meter for comparison troubleshooting. I have worked with people that were skilled pcb repairers but I don't possess the experience. They typically used PACE repair stations with variable speed grinders. I think drilling out the char is probably your best bet, luckily there doesn't appear to be a lot going on below the surface. At least the burnt area appears to be far enough away from the via between the two solder pads.

[TiN]

Some addition to firmware collection for Model 2001, thanks to Todd.

Now have:

Version A05
Version A06
Version A08 (I was told it's latest, when sent my 2001 to Tek calibration. Also without A08 they could not finish calibration due to AC ranges)
Version B07
Version B08
Version B10
Version B15

Download links

I don't know what is difference between "A"-versions and "B".

[macboy]

Some addition to firmware collection for Model 2001, thanks to Todd.

Now have:

Version A05
Version A06
Version A08 (I was told it's latest, when sent my 2001 to Tek calibration. Also without A08 they could not finish calibration due to AC ranges)
Version B07
Version B08
Version B10
Version B15

Download links

I don't know what is difference between "A"-versions and "B".

Very nice. Have you ever tried to upgrade the firmware? I assume that this will cause loss of calibration, what do you think? I have two at B10 and one at B15, and a blank set of EPROMs but I am hesitant to upgrade the B10 to B15 in case I lose the calibration. I suppose I could just back up the I2C EEPROM in case of trouble.

[TiN]

Yes, I had upgraded few units to A08. As of calibration - you can always save EEPROM contents and revert it back, with no problems.
I actually had issue with calibrated 2001 with VFD DC converter, so just swapped digital boards and copied firmware and calibration ROM to other board without any issues.

Plan to change reference on second 2001 to LTZ1000 unit to compare for DCV noise performance, as it's easy to get 8.5 digits from 2001, but they are way noisier than from 2002.