EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: Mechatrommer on February 22, 2019, 03:52:02 pm
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parts for 20cm x 15cm print area broken down in few pieces...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3445344 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3445344)
original 3d part is here...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3306466 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3306466)
and here Upgrading Mainboard in Lecroy DDA-3000 (aka WavePro 7300a) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/upgrading-mainboard-in-lecroy-dda-3000-(aka-wavepro-7300a)/msg2060719/#msg2060719)
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/upgrading-mainboard-in-lecroy-dda-3000-(aka-wavepro-7300a)/?action=dlattach;attach=603091;image (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/upgrading-mainboard-in-lecroy-dda-3000-(aka-wavepro-7300a)/?action=dlattach;attach=603091;image)
pic 1: the printed parts.
pic 2,3,4,5,6: joined together with soldering iron.
next post...
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pic 10-12: 1st pass... puttied with brown poly putty used in automotive restoration and repainting...
pic 20-24: 1st pass... sanding and fit testing (after 1 day for putty to cure)
after few passes of the same job above... painting...
is what you see here...
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-lecroy-dda-5005-dso-5ghz-20gsps-xxl/msg2217855/#msg2217855 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-lecroy-dda-5005-dso-5ghz-20gsps-xxl/msg2217855/#msg2217855)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-lecroy-dda-5005-dso-5ghz-20gsps-xxl/?action=dlattach;attach=659304;image)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-lecroy-dda-5005-dso-5ghz-20gsps-xxl/?action=dlattach;attach=659298;image)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-lecroy-dda-5005-dso-5ghz-20gsps-xxl/?action=dlattach;attach=659310;image)
rough surfaces 90% gone. only have to find good coating for long lasting finishing paint. i'm thinking 2K clear coat on that water based paint.
FWIW...
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I'm working on some variants of the same, had thought since encountering the first breaks on these parts that 3d printing would be a great way to work around it, and then you uploaded some really good models to start with - these plastic bits have been so prone to failure, especially in shipping, and seem to be nearly impossible to otherwise source. I've got a "remix" posted on thingiverse of both the foot and the bumper for it with some slightly modifications - got an in-progress version of the bezel as well, but I've had a couple of issues with my enclosure preventing me from getting a really good print out of it for proper testing.
In any case, what kind of materials are you using? The soldering iron to join it is an interesting take, but if you're using ABS something like acetone welding or plastic glue may look a bit cleaner (though, it does look quite clean painted). I assume the rubber bumpers on the feet are printed in some kind of elastomer? I've been using TPU and while it strings enough to need some post-processing, it's done a good job of mimicking hard rubber.
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Hello Mechatrommer,
How did you glue the pieces together? I mean - did you use a solvent like dichloroethane, or some kind of special glue (from what material are the printed parts here)?
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It would also be useful to print these parts so that it was possible to manufacture the input adapter on your own.
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In any case, what kind of materials are you using? The soldering iron to join it is an interesting take, but if you're using ABS something like acetone welding or plastic glue may look a bit cleaner (though, it does look quite clean painted). I assume the rubber bumpers on the feet are printed in some kind of elastomer? I've been using TPU and while it strings enough to need some post-processing, it's done a good job of mimicking hard rubber.
i just used PLA on everything i printed. havent make research on better and longer lasting material for 3D printing. ABS warped too much so i abandon that material.
Hello Mechatrommer,
How did you glue the pieces together? I mean - did you use a solvent like dichloroethane, or some kind of special glue (from what material are the printed parts here)?
i used what we call here chloroform. its controlled substance but i got a left over from my brother doing car accessories shop. i think chloroform is much stronger than acetone treatment, but even that, i have to "weld" with soldering iron to make stronger connection. thats only hack tool available for me, cant do any better. and the fact that i will paint it afterward, so the burnt effect will not be an issue, unless you open it up and look from the inside. i'm not familiar with dichloroethane. i noticed a small portion at the top part of the bezel i'm doing is splitted up already due to not enough glue strength i guess, i'll make another treatment pass on that later.
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The standard plastic welding solvent is dichloromethane (DCM), not dichloroethane. Most hobby shops sell it packaged in small bottles in the US. It's also used in a lot of PCV pipe welding solvents.
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The standard plastic welding solvent is dichloromethane (DCM), not dichloroethane. Most hobby shops sell it packaged in small bottles in the US. It's also used in a lot of PCV pipe welding solvents.
aha if PVC pipe solvent/bonder, we have a lot of that here, i just pulled up one from my storage its called ABS Solvent. you gave me some idea, yes its a strong bond between PVC, but i'm not sure if its dichloromethane (DCM) its not written anywhere on the can labelling or how effective it is on PLA. thanks maybe we can use that for later project.
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The standard plastic welding solvent is dichloromethane (DCM), not dichloroethane. Most hobby shops sell it packaged in small bottles in the US. It's also used in a lot of PCV pipe welding solvents.
It is possible that where you live, dichloromethane is used, but here, where I am, dichloroethane is always used (https://www.google.com/search?q=%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%85%D0%BB%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%8D%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD&rlz=1C1VLSB_enUA781UA782&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved) and no one knows about dichloromethane. I do not think that there is a fundamental difference in the properties of these solvents.
if you have any idea or info, i'll be glad if you can share it.
Unfortunately, at the moment I do not have a single adapter for Lecroy LPA (I used the photo from the Internet).
about the 3d model for the adapters, i'll post when its quite finalized, but as i said it may not work for you since i've compensated the dimension for my 3d printer.
It would be useful for me, since I have SDA6000
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I also bought a set of legs from this person, simply because I do not see any advantage in price if I place an order with local print performers. But I saved a lot of time.
I think $100 is an acceptable price for a nearly finished front panel. If a person is in good relations with his hands, it is not a problem for him to putty, grinding and paint. It is possible that I would buy it too.
Currently, I am fairly successfully restoring old broken frames. I use dichloroethane and fiberglass-reinforced epoxies, which I mix with dyes in the original color of this product.
Have you seen this frame in shapeways.com? I managed to find only the back legs there, and yes, it is extremely expensive there.
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Currently, I am fairly successfully restoring old broken frames. I use dichloroethane and fiberglass-reinforced epoxies, which I mix with dyes in the original color of this product.
if you have the original frame, however broken it is, 3d printed part wont be necessary, as long as you have all the pieces to glue back together
Have you seen this frame in shapeways.com?
just upload the stl model to their website, choose what material and hit the button, you'll get your quotation.
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final touch up is made during the weekend before this guy goes to a company in taiwan. another layer of polish and paint and lastly clear coat is applied. labelling is done, 80% exterior is cleaned esp the top part of the casing. this is how it looks before departure :(
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Now it looks much better. But something is wrong with the color of the keyboard.
Have a photo of the back of the frame?
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Now it looks much better. But something is wrong with the color of the keyboard.
Have a photo of the back of the frame?
what keyboard? when the clear coat is applied, the light blue color contrast is increased and becomes darker, i think much more matching with front panel control and the body, except the glossiness (i tried carefull enough to get matte finish but not 100% successful). the back of frame is unpainted, except smeared with flying mist of spray paint, otherwise it is as it was when printed/unpainted (visible layer steps). btw the dda5005a is boxed already ready to be picked up, kinda sad and sorrow :(
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Do not worry, you have a reason to rejoice. You have already received a beautiful 1K discount in Thailand and sent him another counter offer yesterday ;)
By the way, the LeCroy sticker can be made this way.
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Do not worry, you have a reason to rejoice. You have already received a beautiful 1K discount in Thailand and sent him another counter offer yesterday ;)
thats not the point. the unit is in good condition, spec spot on and some of my blood (hard work) is already there ;) i will have no backup if something happen to my sda6000. considering the current condition of the 5005 it should be priced much higher imho. btw you have done some detective job there how did you do that? did you reject my offer? ;)
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Not. I do not participate in this.
But it was fascinating :).
Do not worry. I have no envy about this. I am loaded with other projects.
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Rear foots "made in DaJMasta" after grinding work :)
But in the beginning it was wetted dichloroethane for leveling the surface.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/273709928961 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/273709928961)
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Today I received a frame printed at JLCPCB for the price of $8 ($13-5 promo coupon).
It looks really nice, there is no work involved, just screw it on.
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...
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:-+ It was very intriguing. Where can I also buy it?
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https://jlcpcb.com/3d-printing
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Thank you.
How did they manage to make such a smooth surface?
Which option did you use: SLA (6060, 9000R, 8000 ), MJF or FDM ? For SLA 6060 it says: Heatproof: 56℃, 9000R - 46℃. It seems to me that this is too little. But MJF and FDM (98℃) cost over $60.
Did you use the 3d model from the first post in this thread?
How did you get the discount for the order?
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I'd be interested as well in a copy...
How did they manage to make such a smooth surface?
The jlc3d page has a link with a factory tour (by a modestly dressed Naomi Wu). It looks like they use sand blasting as the last step to smooth the surface.
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The surface looks sandblasted, the matte white surface cannot be photographed properly.
I used the 3D model from the beginning of this thread, material sla9000r. I'm not worried about temperature resistance, the oscilloscope doesn't heat up that much.
I got the promo cupon like this :-)
https://www.google.com/search?q=jlcpcb+promo+code (https://www.google.com/search?q=jlcpcb+promo+code)
About the third one I tried worked.
Hannah (I think they made up the English sounding names https://jlcpcb.com/ourTeam (https://jlcpcb.com/ourTeam)) wrote a threatening email see screenshot. There was no problem with the thin wall. The model was slightly deformed similar to the photo, but I simply and quickly flattened the deformation with hot/cold tap water. It went so well that in my excitement I didn't even have time to take a picture of the original model.
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Does anyone have a source file with these labels?
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Well well,
after ordering 2 piece on PCBWay.com using Mechatrommer's updated Front Bezel SDL ... as I liked to have them in black O;)
Received them ALL as heavy sandwiched in one cartoon box:
- one part of the middle strap broken
- all middle strap as as heavy curved, finally all broke...
- Bezel as deformed not straight as original on table
- even one dummy plug side broken as very thick
IMHO the 3D model requires some modifications, so the middle strap gets not broken closed to the connection main frame parts.
Also asking/looking for a slim floppy adapter to hold w USB connector...
Look attached about the disaster..
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you can ask pcbway later again to do support on the fragile overhang.. i cant get to editing the model yet as i'm doing other work.. when i can get back to it, i think i will redo in one go the model for msla printing tolerance. the model i published was for abs/pla filament 3d printer with 0.3mm nozzle tolerance. so its not a straight forward job. ymmv.
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you can ask pcbway later again to do support on the fragile overhang.. i cant get to editing the model yet as i'm doing other work.. when i can get back to it, i think i will redo in one go the model for msla printing tolerance. the model i published was for abs/pla filament 3d printer with 0.3mm nozzle tolerance. so its not a straight forward job. ymmv.
The shipping parcel was the issue, as order (2 bezel's and some adapters) sandwiched all in one thin parcel. The parcel itself was OK, but inside any deformation happened.
Using FreeCAD & tutorial, I could build the solid 3D model using 0.01 tolerance. But to remove on the middle strap all this half holes |O and made the middle strap straight :palm:
As PCBway as JLCPCB has more plastic options to select (online ordering system looks as equal).
The RESIN Black I used, IMHO to fragile, so PC (polycarbonat) as also in black would be the better option but about 80EU's.
Hp
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Today I finally received the front bezel I had JLCPCB 3D print for me in ABS (off white). It took a bit longer to receive it because Fedex tried to deliver twice, then loaded it onto the wrong truck which still counted as the third delivery attempt so they send it back to China. JLCPCB's helpdesk sorted things out though and re-shipped the package.
The front bezel I received is perfectly straight although I got the usual remarks that some areas are too thin. It does look very 3D printed though. The curves in the original bezel are smooth where the 3D printed one clearly shows steps. I had to make a few adjusts with a file. The hole for the power button was slightly too small and the left side didn't want to close up but the latter problem can be cause by the frame being bent a bit. The oscilloscope got banged up a bit at some point. The Lecroy badge also doesn't fit but that cracked into pieces when I tried to remove it. Such crappy plastic |O
Still the result looks way better than it was with the original bezel that had cracked again after painstakingly glueing it together.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/restoration-of-lecroy-wavemaster-wavepro-front-bezel-by-3d-printing/?action=dlattach;attach=1577206;image)
A huge thumbs up for Mechatrommer to make these 3D files available :-+ :-+ Thank you very much!
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Today I finally received the front bezel I had JLCPCB 3D print for me in ABS (off white).
What did it cost?
I always file the bottom of the opening on the right, even in the original frame, because it has unnecessary stress and a tendency to break because of this.
I reinforce the vertical column with clipped stapler staples where it tends to break. I just press them with the thin edge of the soldering iron tip into the plastic. This is working.
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congratulation. iirc i created the model with abs/pla printing in mind 0.3mm nozzle, so i made clearance about 0.3mm or more on each fitting and holes. You mentioned power button doesnt fit means they printed it larger than it suppose to be. And visible steps layers means they are using classic abs/pla method.. about less than 2 years ago i purchased msla printer, its like earth and heaven difference compared to filament printing. 0.05mm layer height and about 0.1mm tolerance or better can be achieved.. the problem is, its small print dimension limit. my next plan is to redo the model for msla printer. To topup back the mass that i removed. This requires me to open and remeasure the original part and hence will take more time. Dont expect its going to be soon though.. due to busyness.. i believe the current model can be used for both filament and msla printing. Its just if printed with msla correctly, the part should be much loosen when assembled on the dso. Also would like to know the cost they charged for filament printing.. one other guy who ordered msla printing unfortunately got distorted printout, got charged eur100, so i guess its a good business for jlcpcb.
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Today I finally received the front bezel I had JLCPCB 3D print for me in ABS (off white).
What did it cost?
I always file the bottom of the opening on the right, even in the original frame, because it has unnecessary stress and a tendency to break because of this.
I reinforce the vertical column with clipped stapler staples where it tends to break. I just press them with the thin edge of the soldering iron tip into the plastic. This is working.
I paid US $88 including shipping. The bezel I got seems quite sturdy and it fits without needing to stretch it. But I'll need to see how it holds up long term.
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As mentioned, like to remove the curved notches and lets deal with a local 3D print shop as claimed 50Eu as using PETG...
if this material wraps too, I cannot comment yet... as all printed 3D should be cooled dawn slowly
but shipping, getting it by car (30Km) is saver as shippers on some countries as :palm:
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Nice job :-/O
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As looking on the given white and my black, surfaces looks any different, as more flat...
only the pitta on middle strap..