Products > Test Equipment

Review of the Korad KEL103 programmable load.

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Hydron:

--- Quote from: plazma on October 04, 2019, 02:00:56 pm ---
--- Quote from: Commander_Spock on April 29, 2019, 01:51:06 pm ---outside of ebay anybody knows where i could find it in the european union ?

--- End quote ---

Farnell got it rebranded as TENMA. Quite a good price. https://uk.farnell.com/tenma/72-13210/dc-electronic-load-prog-30a-120v/dp/2848407

--- End quote ---
CPC (basically less competent but cheaper farnell) is significantly cheaper for those in the UK:
https://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-13210/dc-electronic-load-prog-30a-120v/dp/IN07979?st=electronic%20load

Wish they had a higher voltage version though

Edit: Damnit now there is a good chance I'll ending up buying one to feed the TEA habit...

Saskia:
found one of those for reasonable money on a returns shelf. It was still in the original packaging, so I could not resist.

doktor pyta:
Can it make battery test (counting Ah) in constant power mode?
I would appreciate if someone could confirm this.

HKJ:

--- Quote from: doktor pyta on August 07, 2020, 09:16:27 am ---Can it make battery test (counting Ah) in constant power mode?
I would appreciate if someone could confirm this.

--- End quote ---

You can always control it from a computer with TestController and do it that way.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/
Note: TestController do not have a definition for Korad KEL103 at the moment, but it is fairly easy to make (No programming required).
Note: TestController have support for Itech, Maynuo & B&K loads, this means with these you can measure Ah in constant power mode.

Hydron:

--- Quote from: damianzet on August 05, 2020, 02:34:32 pm ---Hello guys. I have this load and some of the components are burnt on mine. R155 and Q11 as well R166 but i know its 471 resistor. Can anyone share what components values are in Q11 and R155?



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I don't have one (yet) so unfortunately can't help, but could you shed some light on what happened that cuased them to burn up? Was it just sitting there, or was a high voltage or something applied to the inputs that shouldn't have been? Asking as I'm considering buying one (in which case I'd open it and look at this area of course!)

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