EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: Lightages on May 30, 2013, 02:18:52 am
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I decided to see how cheap you can go and still get a decent meter. What can you get $20? I don't know, but up your budget to $21 shipped to your door and you might be surprised. I was.
Is it safe for high energy circuits or does it even meet its CAT ratings? No, but it is worth buying if you really can't afford $50, $100, or $200 plus.
Uni-T UT136B multimeter review. How cheap can you go? How cheap should you go? (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URKSs02qz5c#ws)
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Nice review. Now selling on ebay for US$16!
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Wow, $16 shipped! This meter is even more of a bargain than I thought.
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Thanks for the review. Looks like a pretty good meter for the money.
There's a company on Amazon that ships from New Jersey selling them for $13.76 plus $4.49 shipping. Not as good a deal as the ones on Ebay but probably quicker shipping for those in the western hemisphere.
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Great deal if you live in the US but they won't ship outside.
"We're sorry. This item can't be shipped to your selected destination. You may either change the shipping address or delete the item from your order."
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Looks like a decent meter. These are not listed on the English language Uni-Trend site, so to aid search results, here's the differentiators as stated in the video:
UT136A standard meter
UT136B from standard, adds capacitance measurement
UT136C from standard, adds temperature measurement and probe
UT136D from standard, adds non-contact voltage detection
I've already got enough multimeters but at this price I couldn't help but order a UT136B and UT136D as good-enough beater meters. Thanks for the review.
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Nice review. Could be a winner in the 20$ range, just like the 61E is in the 50$ one. Any competitors?
Is that LCD really glued to the PCB?. That's a first for UNI-T, as far as I know. I guess some shortcuts were needed at that price point.
Can't wait to see the 5000 volt test. :o
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Nice review. Could be a winner in the 20$ range, just like the 61E is in the 50$ one. Any competitors?
Thanks. I don't think so. I am not in the habit of researching cheap meters except I know that I won't touch another Mastech, no matter the price.
Is that LCD really glued to the PCB?. That's a first for UNI-T, as far as I know. I guess some shortcuts were needed at that price point.
The LCD is held in place by the circuit board being held against the front case with the screw and the back case when it is assembled. The glue on the little locating pins is probably just to make it easier to assemble so that the LCD doesn't fall away from the circuit board when inserting the board into the front half of the case.
Can't wait to see the 5000 volt test. :o
I don't think I will bother doing that test. The first reason is that the manual clearly states to not use the meter above 500V, and it is only CATII600V rated, and that quite optimistic too. The other thing is if it happens to pass a 5000V torture test then it might encourage people to use it on high energy circuits and I prefer to not encourage that behavior with this meter.
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Got my UT136B and UT136D in today.
I like the feel. They fit the hand well and don't look as cheap as in the video / photos. VERY solid...I was expecting more plastic creaking at this price. The manual has some pretty brillant engrish. The leads are certainly adequate for the price. I do wish Uni-T would color code the input jacks.
In the UT136D, there are three one-turn pots right next to eachother, labeled VR1, VR2, VR3. VR1= closest to the center screw post and is for DCV, VR2= next one and is ACV, VR3=...? - there is no capacitance range on the 'D and the 'B model has the additional fourth pot way on the left which probably is for capacitance, so I don't know what VR3 does.
DMMCheck Plus measurements are very good for both meters, especially resistance which is at most one count out. Resistance auto-ranging is VERY slow.
Tore down my UT136D as it wasn't doing NCV very well. Nothing looked wrong, soldering looked top notch. LCD came off when I flipped the board (it is held in by pressure, and there was no glue on mine), cleaned with IPA around the NCV area, and tried again...almost nothing. My Amprobe PM55A that I got the day before worked flawlessly and things are plugged in, so I know it has to work. Then I read the manual... and it's for 220V only =( If you are in the USA like I am, don't bother with the UT136D for the non-contact voltage detector; it won't work. Too bad I couldn't find a manual for this beforehand, oh well =(
Nothing I have tried in this price range comes close with autoranging, features, and build quality. I'll still use the Flukes and Agilents on the bench but have no problem using this for basic stuff in the field.
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Thanks true for the follow up. It is nice to know that the D model isn't worth buying. So in the end I would say that just the B and C models are worth the money.
I am glad you got good leads!
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The $16 meter arrived today. 14 days from China to Canada, not too bad at all. Looks and works as expected which is fantastic for $16! Even came with 9V battery installed! :-+
One thing to note, the multipurpose socket that comes with the UT61E fits and functions with this meter (when placed across +Volts and Amps terminal). Bonus! I think this is THE best bargain electronics meter on the market. Far better than 3 DT830B pieces of garbage for the same money.
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If your in Europe and have a Conrad store close by you can get it as a rebadged VC-170 from them for about 29 Euros.
It really isn't that bad for a cheap meter, even has sort of HRC fuses in it. Conrad specced BS1363 6kA breaking capacity fuses in their version.
http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/124403/Voltcraft-VC170-Digital-Multimeter-4000-counts-CAT-III-250-V (http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/124403/Voltcraft-VC170-Digital-Multimeter-4000-counts-CAT-III-250-V)
I haven't compared the specs of the two meters too closely, so there might be other differences.
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Thanks for the review.
I found the C model that measures temp. for $18 on Ebay.
Shoot, how can I go wrong for that price? :-// I'm ordering one tomorrow.
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The only thing that can go wrong is if you get a bad set of leads like I did. But really, I am quite impressed with this little meter for the price.
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I just ordered a B and C version for ~$20 CND each. And some 'BEST 402 Ultra-Sharp Multimeter Test Leads' for $5. Thanks for the great review.
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Those leads you ordered are also going to be in my mulitmeter leads comparison/shootout/torture test. I doubt they will be the "BEST". Anything that is labelled "PRO" or "BEST" is usually the opposite.
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I decided to see how cheap you can go and still get a decent meter. What can you get $20? I don't know, but up your budget to $21 shipped to your door and you might be surprised. I was.
Is it safe for high energy circuits or does it even meet its CAT ratings? No, but it is worth buying if you really can't afford $50, $100, or $200 plus.
Uni-T UT136B multimeter review. How cheap can you go? How cheap should you go? (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URKSs02qz5c#ws)
How many Chinese workers died making that DMM? :-DD
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How many Chinese workers died making that DMM? :-DD
I bet many less than those who have died making iphones.....
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Got the UT136C today. Quite pleased with it. The leads I got don't seem very plasticky, and they both work. :)
Nice little meter all-in-all.
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I tested the temp. measurement using my Hakko soldering station which I know is very accurate, having tested it using a Hakko (clone) FG-100. I set the station to 200C because the DMM manual states that only temps up to 230C can be measured with the supplied type K thermocouple.
The manual states that the accuracy from 0 - 400C is +/-(2.5% + 3). So measuring 200C were looking at +/- (5 + 3 counts) or +/- 8C. The meter read 202C.
Note: The DMM does not present any decimal places when measuring temp.
At room temp my trusty digital thermometer reads 81 F which is what my room thermostat is set to, or 27.2C.
The DMM reads 30C which would appear to also be within spec.
+/- (2.5% + 3) @ 27.2C
+/- (0.68 + 3) or +/- 3.68C
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I didn't watch the video, did you do a teardown, the new uni t are shipping with bare copper tracks for the mode selector dial.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 2
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I didn't watch the video, did you do a teardown, the new uni t are shipping with bare copper tracks for the mode selector dial.
The traces on mine were plated, either with a nickel plating or a gold alloy. I would bet nickel. I always do a teardown! :)
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Mine also were plated, IIRC. Would have to tear it apart again to verify, but I use this thing in my work truck so don't have it here...
About all I can add is that the leads have deformed from being wrapped around the meter...but the meter is in the truck, which is parked in the sun with 110F outside heat. No telling what it is inside. I'm surprised that more things don't melt.
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Great review of that little cheap meter. Ordered one this day.
Bad thing about those testleads but...
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Do you know what is the burden voltage of the UT136B ?
I am thinking of buying one. The UT136C with temperature measurement.
Also, have you measured the resistance of its probes?
They are usually crap and its always a good thing to buy a set of good leads when using
cheap multimeters.
Finally does the manual state the minimum signal voltage for correct frequency measurement?
I had the UT120C but it had high signal requirements for frequency measurement, while the
UT61E is more sensitive.
I cannot find the UNI-T online manuals for previous products. What happened, did UNI-T
removed all the info on its 2013 and older multimeter series?
Thanks.
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I'm not sure which older operating manual you're after, but most of them are available on the site in English:
http://www.uni-trend.com/product.html (http://www.uni-trend.com/product.html)
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The UT120C Manual.
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Most of the specs are here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut120c-review-and-tear-down/msg180726/#msg180726 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut120c-review-and-tear-down/msg180726/#msg180726)
From the manual:
Input sine wave 10Hz~10kHz >1V RMS 10kHz~100kHz >30V RMS
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From the Chinese manual for the UT136 range (ABCD):
Below 100kHz > 300 mV RMS Above 100kHz > 600 mV RMS
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From the Chinese manual for the UT136 range (ABCD):
Below 100kHz > 300 mV RMS Above 100kHz > 600 mV RMS
Perfect for my project! The UT61E is even better with
Below 10MHz > 300 mV RMS Above 10MHz > 400 mV RMS
Thanks!
Now, if lightages can also tell us the burden voltage of the UT136B it would be great!
I will combine the multimeter with the following Brymen probes that Franky is selling on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V-/171162377470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27da129cfe (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V-/171162377470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27da129cfe)
0.024 Ohms internal resistance confirmed by Franky. Not bad at all. Silicon and gold plated as well.
I think it will make a nice portable combo for the price. I am not sure if they will fit though.
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This little meter is really good for current measurement. The resistance on each of the ranges is as follows; 100 ohm in microA, 1.3 ohm in mA, 0.025 ohm in A. This is basically the same as a Brymen! You will also most definitely be happy with the Digitek leads from Franky.
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Those are nice looking leads Frankie has.
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Thanks for the information. 100 Ohms in the uA range ??
The leads are Brymen, not Digitek.
Only problem is the multimeter. I can only find the C version in DX and am not really a fan
of DealExtreme. Slow shipping and you don't really know if they actually have the items in stock.
Maybe you know of an alternative online shop that is selling the C version.
Did you buy yours from ebay?
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Yes, 100 ohms in the microamp range. The Brymen leads are outstanding leads in any price range. I think they are a bit overkill when you consider you are paying almost the same for the leads as the meter. For the combined price of the UT136X and the Brymen leads you can almost pay for the Digitek DT2843R and have a much more capable multimeter with the really nice leads already. The Digitek leads are very nice with the exception that the tips are not very sharp but they are a better match price wise for the UT136X than the Brymen leads.
Yes I purchased my UT136B from DX and no I don't like them very much neither but options for getting things to Chile are limited and everything has always arrived. They are slow but reliable IMHO.
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I decided to see how cheap you can go and still get a decent meter. What can you get $20? I don't know, but up your budget to $21 shipped to your door and you might be surprised. I was.
I have Fluke, ExTech and a couple Uni-T, and I really like them. I have the 61E, and I really think it's a nice multimeter. I have to agree with you, there are some decent cheaper brands, you just need to do the research.
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The UT61E has 12 ohms in the mA range. The UT126B with 1.3ohms is 9 times more accurate then!
(or the UT61E is 9 times less accurate... :()
I was also thinking of the Digitek solution instead of the Uni-T + Leads, but I'm not really sure.
I don't receive good vibes from Digitek... :) The other reason is that I need something compact.
I was going to buy the UT120C again but then I saw the UT126C.
I think I will try the UT126C + Brymen leads.
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The UT61E has 12 ohms in the mA range. The UT126B with 1.3ohms is 9 times more accurate then!
(or the UT61E is 9 times less accurate... :()
Burden voltage and accuracy are two entirely different things..
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What happens then to accuracy when you have a high voltage drop
from internal resistance, when you measure low currents... ?
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What happens then to accuracy when you have a high voltage drop
from internal resistance, when you measure low currents... ?
Nothing happens to the accuracy of the reading, only its relevance.
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I think we are saying the same thing.
The accuracy of each multimeter is fixed of course, but when you have a large burden voltage drop,
you have to account for that, otherwise the reading will not be so "accurate".
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The current being measured will be accurate but the voltage being supplied to the device will be affected and therefore the current measurement might not actually relate to what the device would use under normal voltage conditions, or the device might not function at all.
I am still working on my multimeter lead shootout but can say that the Digitek leads are very good buys with gold plating, nice flexible and soft insulation, nice strain reliefs on each end, and low resistance. The only two drawbacks so far are the fairly dull tips and non-silicone insulation but still very flexible.
Yes the UT136X is very small and it is a great buy but if you are going to spend another $17 on leads then the DT2843R is a much better buy with temperature, True RMS AC+DC, back light, Relative function, Min/Max function, and has great leads included already in addition to what the UT136B offers.
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Do you know if the leads supplied with the Digitek are exactly the same as these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V-/171162377470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27da129cfe (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V-/171162377470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27da129cfe)
temperature, True RMS AC+DC, back light, Relative function, Min/Max
The UT136C has temperature and I saw in your video review of the UT136B that you
did rel out capacitance. True RMS, back light and min-max I don't really need.
I need it to be compact and with a good frequency counter.
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The leads supplied with the Digitek are as shown on this page:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digitek-DT-2843R-AC-DC-True-RMS-Multimeter-Backlight-and-Temperature-/171080136251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d52bb63b (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digitek-DT-2843R-AC-DC-True-RMS-Multimeter-Backlight-and-Temperature-/171080136251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d52bb63b)
They are Digitek leads not Brymen leads.
The only things you can rel on the UT136B is capacitance and resistance. They are also only autoranging until you do a rel function and then they stick in whatever range you rel'd on.
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I see. Ok, thanks again.
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Cheap'n'cheesy! Bought!
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Just received the Brymen probes from Franky.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V-/171162377470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27da129cfe (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V-/171162377470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27da129cfe)
(http://s5.postimg.org/glnwjrg6f/Brymen_Probes.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Probes (http://postimage.org/)
Very nice quality. Compared to the Fluke TL175 leads the silicone cables are just a bit thicker
and of similar quality. No rating markings on them. The stress relief of the Fluke is better.
The protection cups are nice and firm and the leads fit very nicely on the UT61E.
Measured with the UT61E their total resistance is 0.04 Ohm (1 meter per lead)
compared to the TL175 which is 0.08 Ohm (1.2 meters per lead). Very nice!
Finally the gold plated tips are really nice and they take correct measurements with very
little pressure. Great at continuity testing as well.
Only problem was that they arrived in a small package and consequently a lot of bends.
Overall a very nice set of leads.
I am still waiting for the UT136C from DX...
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Now why isn't the 136 range mentioned in the (2009, sheesh) catalog on the uni-t site or on their manual download page? Is it not yet in there and they're running very behind, or is it gone from there already?
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Now why isn't the 136 range mentioned in the (2009, sheesh) catalog on the uni-t site or on their manual download page? Is it not yet in there and they're running very behind, or is it gone from there already?
Uni-T hasn't updated their English website for who-knows-how-long. Try their Chinese site: http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/cp.asp (http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/cp.asp)
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I was just going to post the same thing, but I will get you to the correct page:
http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/cp-show.asp?yy=%D6%D0%CE%C4&ProductNO=610 (http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/cp-show.asp?yy=%D6%D0%CE%C4&ProductNO=610)
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I knew I was doing *something* wrong.
Still prefer the english catalog pdf as a format though :)
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The UT136C just arrived!
(http://s5.postimg.org/rp4axqqw7/Uni_T_UT136_C.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
(http://postimage.org/app.php)
First Impressions :
+ Nice sturdy construction, excellent LCD display. Uni-T always uses very nice LCD displays!
+ I am using it with the Brymen leads from Franky. Great combination.
The leads that come with it are not of bad quality actually but they have a resistance of 0.15 ohms.
Continuity testing with this combination is like a machine gun. Instant.
+ Great frequency counter, fast and very sensitive. That is actually the reason I've bought it.
+ Accurate and fast current measurements.
Burden Resistance : 101 ohm @ uA, 1.84 ohm @ mA and 0.14 omhs @ A scales
+ Very positive feel on the dial, a bit stiff though. No annoying beeping when changing modes.
+ Excellent tilt mount. Stable.
- Probably the slowest resistance measurement I have seen in a multimeter.
I thought I was measuring a large capacitor... At least its accurate.
- 1.48V for diode measurement but fast. Nothing great here.
(Is it that difficult to make a proper diode tester? !$@#$%) 21st century tech...
- Useless Hold button as usual. Perfect for a backlight switch mod.
- Leads for temperature measurement complete junk! Temperature sampling is fast
but no decimal places.
- Placement of probe receptacles confusing. A little red colour marking wouldn't hurt.
- (03 March 2014) Arrived 5mV out of calibration. Fixed with adjustment of VR1 pot.
Overall a great little multimeter, especially for the price range.
Perfect for my project because of its very fast sensitive and accurate frequency counter.
If you are measuring resistors frequently, look elsewhere.
The UT61E just gave birth to a cute little baby. :)
(http://s5.postimg.org/x1t5bvesn/Unit_T_Baby.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Size Comparison (http://postimage.org/app.php)
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Just blown the mA fuse of the UT136C while measuring current from a little motor.
Touched the spindle by accident while it was rotating...
I've replaced its fuse with a cheap one I had around, but now the mA burden resistance
went up from 1.84R to 3.84R. While the A and uA are not really affected, the low voltage
mA measurements just became a lot worse now, just by using a crappy fuse with high
resistance.
Have you ever though about that?
Do you know the resistance of the fuses you are using?...
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Ohhh, can't wait to get mine !
My old Mastech is already starting to go all over the place when taking voltage readings, although it did well for the past 2 years...
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Hi, I just received a UT136C multimeter from gearbest but I have a problem with temperature reading. It always show OL. What does that mean? The probe is connected properly to the right slot. Maybe my multimeter is defective?
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More likely is that the cheap probe is defective.
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Where can I get a good probe?
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There are probes available on ebay. The thing is you should get a replacement free from the seller of the UT136C. It is defective and they should replace it, not you.
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I doubt gearbest will send me a probe for this.
I searched ebay but can't find the right probe for this. Will this one work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DS18B20-Temperature-Temp-Sensor-Thermal-Probe-Thermometer-Waterproof-For-Arduino-/400805445386?hash=item5d51ddbf0a:g:40EAAOSweW5VG4tm (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DS18B20-Temperature-Temp-Sensor-Thermal-Probe-Thermometer-Waterproof-For-Arduino-/400805445386?hash=item5d51ddbf0a:g:40EAAOSweW5VG4tm)
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Is leads always problem with those cheap meters ? Seems like every sub $25 I've saw or owned developed a problem with them after some time. I've got pair of http://en.axiomet.eu/product/axiomet/test-lead/ax-tlp-001/106 (http://en.axiomet.eu/product/axiomet/test-lead/ax-tlp-001/106) and they are well worth it, better than ones most $100+ meters.
They basically have very sharp tip that pokes thru isolated cover (so it is hard to short anything by accident) and after taking it of it fits nicely into standard banana socket
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I found out what the problem with my 136c temperature meter. It was the fuse. It was burn out. I removed the fuse and bypassed it by soldering a copper wire. Also the fuse for the 10A meter was burn out. I also bypassed it with copper wire.
What would be the effect if i don't use a fuse for the 10A meter? Will this make the ampere reading not accurate?
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I found out what the problem with my 136c temperature meter. It was the fuse. It was burn out. I removed the fuse and bypassed it by soldering a copper wire. Also the fuse for the 10A meter was burn out. I also bypassed it with copper wire.
What would be the effect if i don't use a fuse for the 10A meter? Will this make the ampere reading not accurate?
Fuses are there to prevent damage, so don't leave your probe plugged in the amp socket.
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WTF!
Yesterday my Uni-T UT136B arrived and... it has no HOLD function, it has the display backlight instead.
Counterfeit?
Anyone has one of these?
It says UT136B on the upper right of the instrument. But... |O
Mmmmhhh... the pages for the specific variants of the UT136x are all down on UNI-T's website. The chinese one.
http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/productscatelist2_21_21_21_21.html (http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/productscatelist2_21_21_21_21.html)
EDIT: The product pages are back, at least on the Chinese site.
Here's the 136B page: http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/productsdetail2.aspx?ProductsID=167&ProductsCateId=104&CateId=104 (http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/productsdetail2.aspx?ProductsID=167&ProductsCateId=104&CateId=104)
The picture clearly shows the HOLD button, and so does the manual.
UPDATED picture with lit display. "FLAME ON!!!"
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I guess it is possible for someone to want to counterfeit a Uni-T. Anything is possible in China. It is also possible that Uni-T made a change to the meter but that seems illogical. The UT139 series is no longer listed on their website. Weird.
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WTF!
Yesterday my Uni-T UT136B arrived and... it has no HOLD function, it has the display backlight instead.
Counterfeit?
Anyone has one of these?
It says UT136B on the upper right of the instrument. But... |O
Mmmmhhh... the pages for the specific variants of the UT136x are all down on UNI-T's website. The chinese one.
http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/productscatelist2_21_21_21_21.html (http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/productscatelist2_21_21_21_21.html)
EDIT: The product pages are back, at least on the Chinese site.
Here's the 136B page: http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/productsdetail2.aspx?ProductsID=167&ProductsCateId=104&CateId=104 (http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/productsdetail2.aspx?ProductsID=167&ProductsCateId=104&CateId=104)
The picture clearly shows the HOLD button, and so does the manual.
I received the same today. I first thought the button was mislabelled and I'd been sent a factory reject.
The build quality seems good and the board inside looks legitimate enough to my untrained eye. The following is printed on the board.
UT136A/B (BL)
REV:00
2016.08.08
edit: I should confirm that the box and included operating manual both show the traditional HOLD button and functionality.
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I'm surprised that this meter is this good for the price. :-+
Still, I preffer to spend around 20€ more and get a Fluke 101 from China. ;)
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The Fluke 101 does not measure current. It is also twice the price or more. That is not a fair comparison. I would not buy a Fluke 101 for bench electronics. I would also not buy the Uni-T for anything that I was worried about my safety. My hands are worth more than 20€.
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I carry a Fluke 101 in my backpack all the time. Nice, small, durable and reliable. I thought of buying a DMM with current measurment, but there was none I liked and "in the field" I hardly measure current. The 40€ I spend was worth the money to me. If you don't want to spend that amount of money, thats fine. Everyone has preferences and possibilitys regarding money.
As a benchmeter I woudn't use neither the Fluke 101 or the cheap UNI-T DMM. But as a beginner I surely would've preferd the UNI-T over the shit manual range DMM my local store has that cost even more then the UNI-T. I think it has its purpose in some narrow field, but if you aren't really short on money or a beginner and really need current measurment, I wound'nt buy it.
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I got a UT136C for US$19.00 and Free shipping from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Sinometer-UT136C-Pocket-size-Temperature-Measurement/dp/B0195UWBKW). It is a Sinometer, but I hope it is a copycat of the Uni-T. I will send internal pictures after it arrives tomorrow.
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Out of interest, I looked to see if there were any listings showing a backlight button and this morning I find this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNI-T-UT136B-Auto-Range-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Frequency-Resistance-Tester-/222383575612?hash=item33c718123c:g:fbgAAOSwjDZYfxPF (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNI-T-UT136B-Auto-Range-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Frequency-Resistance-Tester-/222383575612?hash=item33c718123c:g:fbgAAOSwjDZYfxPF)
Uni-T UT136B
Description:
Warning: New Update, the "HOLD " Button Changed to"Backlight"Button
The instrument of this series UT136B is a small hand-held 3 1/2 (3999 counts) digital multimeter featuring stable,highly reliable and anti-drop performance. It is provided with a LCD display (49mm x 18mm) for clear reading. The circuit design takes LSI double integral A/D converter as its core under the protection of an overload protection circuit, making it a superior modern instrument. Moreover, It can be used to measure or test DC and AC voltage, DC and AC current, resistance, capacity, diodes and in-circuit continuity (buzzer) test. It is kind of basic function/ low cost Multimeter not with high accuracy.
Features:
Auto Power Off ; Low Battery Display; Diode Test; Continue Buzzer
Input Imp. For DC Voltage Measure: >= 10Mohm
Data ; Max. Display: 3999
Tilt stand design, three observation angles is in favor of reading display
High sensitivity AC / DC voltage DC current measurement
Fit for schools, factories, families, and amateur wireless lovers
Small and compact design
It is made of superior material, durable and practical
Specification:
Power: 9V Battery
Product Color: Red and Iron Grey
The max display: 3999
Work Environment: 0?-40?
Storage Environment: -10?-50?
Function: DCV,ACV,DCA,ACA ,Diode
Product Dimensions: (13.5 x 6.5 x 3.5)cm / (5.31 x 2.56 x 1.38)"(L x W x H)
Product Net weight: 315g / 11.11oz
Function:
mA range: F1 fuse 5x20mm, F 0.5A H 250V
10A range: F2 fuse 5x20mm, F 10A H 250V
(When <= 5A continuous measurement is allowed, when > 5A continuous measurement less than 10 seconds at an interval more than 15 minutes)
DC voltage : 400mV/4V/40V/400V/500V ;±(0.8%+1)
AC voltage : 400mV/4V/40V/400V/500V ; ±(1.2%+3)
DC current : 400uA/4mA/40mA/400mA/4A/10A ; ±(1.0%+2)
AC Current : 400uA/4mA/40mA/400mA/4A/10A ; ±(1.2%+5)
Resistance : 400ohm/4000ohm/40kohm/400kohm/4Mohm/40Mohm ; ±(1.0%+2)
Capacitance : 4nF/40nF/400nF/4uF/40uF/100uF ; ±(4.0%+3)
Frequency : 10Hz/100Hz/1kHz/10kHz/100kHz/1MHz/10MHz ; ±(0.5%+3)
Duty cycle : 0.1% ~ 99.9%
Frequency: 40Hz ~ 400Hz. Display effective value of sine wave(average value) each measurement is applicable from 5% of range as reference.
Closer Look:
Warning: New Update, the "HOLD " Button Changed to"Backlight"Button
It seems a nice backlight to me. No timeout on it as far as I am aware and, bar the hot spot at the far right, it's evenly lit.
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I just got the Sinometer. It is built like a tank and it has the "Hold" button.
The preliminary tests show a very similar performance as in Lightages' video.
A friend from work just bought one after I showed him mine. It is spreading! :)
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A change to a back light is a great change! A button for hold is a waste of space and money spent on the button.
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I got a UT136C for US$19.00 and Free shipping from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Sinometer-UT136C-Pocket-size-Temperature-Measurement/dp/B0195UWBKW). It is a Sinometer, but I hope it is a copycat of the Uni-T. I will send internal pictures after it arrives tomorrow.
It's now $15 with free shipping. :o
I just couldn't pass that up.
Oh, and all you need to do in order to get the probes to work well is to get some ultra-fine sandpaper (e.g., 1000 grit. I used 600 grit myself and it worked a treat) and go over the entire surface of the metal probe tips with it, including the point itself. This massively improves the contact reliability of the probes, and seems to bring them up to par with gold-plated tips for contact reliability (though the probe resistance is still higher than the best probes, almost certainly due to the choice of materials). Neither standard contact cleaner (haven't tried DeoxIT) nor IPA did anything to improve that.
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I finally got around to shoot a picture from the interior of the Sinometer UT136C. The build quality is very similar to the UNI-T, including the nice battery protection and the nice housing.
It's now $15 with free shipping. :o
I just couldn't pass that up.
I saw that. Incredible.
Oh, and all you need to do in order to get the probes to work well is to get some ultra-fine sandpaper (e.g., 1000 grit. I used 600 grit myself and it worked a treat) and go over the entire surface of the metal probe tips with it, including the point itself. This massively improves the contact reliability of the probes, and seems to bring them up to par with gold-plated tips for contact reliability (though the probe resistance is still higher than the best probes, almost certainly due to the choice of materials). Neither standard contact cleaner (haven't tried DeoxIT) nor IPA did anything to improve that.
I don't have such fine grit sandpaper with me, but yesterday I tried DeoxIT D5 and some vigorous rubbing with a paper towel gave a lot of improvement - not yet ideal given the continuity is still very scratchy, but perfectly usable.
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Please, PLEASE, do not use sandpaper on probes. The probes usually are some kind of chrome or nickel plated onto cheaper metal like brass. Using sandpaper removes the plating and will make them prone to corrosion and constantly failing to make good contact. Usually what is preventing the probes from making good contact is residue from the molding process. The process can leave a very thin film of plastic/rubber/silicone or mold release on the surface of the probes. This needs to be removed without damaging the plating.
Instead, use fine steel wool and rub the probes with a bit of alcohol or some other solvent. This should remove the insulating coating without doing too much damage to the plating.
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Please, PLEASE, do not use sandpaper on probes. The probes usually are some kind of chrome or nickel plated onto cheaper metal like brass. Using sandpaper removes the plating and will make them prone to corrosion and constantly failing to make good contact. Usually what is preventing the probes from making good contact is residue from the molding process. The process can leave a very thin film of plastic/rubber/silicone or mold release on the surface of the probes. This needs to be removed without damaging the plating.
Instead, use fine steel wool and rub the probes with a bit of alcohol or some other solvent. This should remove the insulating coating without doing too much damage to the plating.
This has me wondering if they can be re-coated with something that would conduct well and which would still protect them. Might be more trouble than it's worth.
Fortunately, these are cheap probes. I've already applied this process to a couple of pairs that I got with UNI-T meters, but if they fail, replacing them is inexpensive (about $1.25 on eBay).
In any case, if the sandpaper you're using is sufficiently fine and you do it carefully enough, you might well end up removing the coating without damaging the plating enough to matter. Tough to say.
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Where is a good place to purchase the UT136B and UT61E and have shipped to Canada. I have looked on Aliexpress ebay and amazon, was wondering if there are places with better prices or places to stay away from?
Thanks
Have a day
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I guess it is possible for someone to want to counterfeit a Uni-T. Anything is possible in China. It is also possible that Uni-T made a change to the meter but that seems illogical. The UT139 series is no longer listed on their website. Weird.
The UT136 series is not shown on the English Uni-T website, but it is still on the Chinese Uni-T website - http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/searchlist.aspx?submit.x=24&submit.y=20&KeyWord=136 (http://www.uni-trend.com.cn/searchlist.aspx?submit.x=24&submit.y=20&KeyWord=136)
The pictures are showing "Hold" buttons.
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The UT136C just arrived!
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- (03 March 2014) Arrived 5mV out of calibration. Fixed with adjustment of VR1 pot.
Hi fellows,
anyone with the trimpots assignment? The temp is way off and I want to get in in the ballpark of my Fluke 179 and other stuff I got here.
Thanks!
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Just wanted to chime in, this looks almost identical to the GW Instek GDM-350B, but that is manual ranging, and it has a power button. Everything else looks identical. I actually really like it, I leave it connected to a DC supply, and just leave it in the 20VDC range, the power button makes it super easy. And, it was $8 when it was discontinued!
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A bit of necroposting... Uni-T re-cooked the UT136 and is now selling its "improved" UT136B+ and UT136C+ versions on a larger size, claiming it is 2m drop tested and with a transistor tester.
http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_2468_1535_1535.html (http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_2468_1535_1535.html)
Oh well... Until one is opened up and tore down, I will hold my recommendations for this meter, though. :palm:
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A bit of necroposting... Uni-T re-cooked the UT136 and is now selling its "improved" UT136B+ and UT136C+ versions on a larger size, claiming it is 2m drop tested and with a transistor tester.
http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_2468_1535_1535.html (http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_2468_1535_1535.html)
Oh well... Until one is opened up and tore down, I will hold my recommendations for this meter, though. :palm:
No
It is totally new units :-//
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Hi there!
i´m willing to buy my first multimeter, for now, safe dmm´s are out of my money range, e. g. Fluke, Agilent, Brymen, etc. Especially because i live in Argentina and usually things cost twice the price one sees on ebay...
So, being that importation procedures are a mysterie since we are changing president and party, i was willing to pick a uni-t since they are readily avaible here (only alternative i found here is astroai dt-132a). I can get UT136B, UT136B+ or UT136C+ (From lower to higher price). The question is: wich would you people recommend? I don´t think temperature nor HFE testing would be that important for me, but, essentially, i´m not really sure about the difference between the originals and their plus counterparts and couldn´t find any info online. I did find however the UT136B+ TEARDOWN here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zspgCZhSJQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zspgCZhSJQ)
Also a little bit expensier i ve seen UT890C wich is Trms but a little off topic...
Wich would you recommend as a first meter? or should i just buy some generic DMM and save my money for something else?
Thanks in advance,
Regards! ^-^
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If buying from AliExpress is an option for you, you may search there for "Zeast 282 (https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMZeast282%20UK.html)" which is a quite well equipped multimeter based on the ubiquitious Hycontec HY12P65 (https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/1139667/HYCON/HY12P65.html) chip (the same as all the ANENGs utilize). To provide the 4.5 Digits, secondary display and bargraph, there is a supportive display driver chip.
The accuracy of the instrument is very good but as with all similar meters, the safety rating is a plain lie. Anyway, for a meter basically used on the electronics workbench (or as a second or third or spare...), it's very good value for the money (currently 17EUR shipped -- I don't know the import expenses you've got to spend to get them into Argentina, in Europe usually these small orders just "slip through" ;) ).
Cheers and good luck!
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i´m willing to buy my first multimeter, for now, safe dmm´s are out of my money range, e. g. Fluke, Agilent, Brymen, etc. Especially because i live in Argentina and usually things cost twice the price one sees on ebay...
If you are interested in safety, the UT139C (https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMUNI-T%20UT139C%20UK.html) is a well built meter for quite a reasonable price (and True RMS). There are a few variants out there, but usually the meter itself is not that expensive. If you can import from Brasil at zero taxes, compare the Aliexpress/Banggood prices (with tax) to Minipa ET-1649 (same meters).
I did a review (in portuguese) at:
https://youtu.be/NvBGcvpxcSc
So, being that importation procedures are a mysterie since we are changing president and party,
My condolences. Having family in BsAs, I follow politics quite closely.
i was willing to pick a uni-t since they are readily avaible here (only alternative i found here is astroai dt-132a). I can get UT136B, UT136B+ or UT136C+ (From lower to higher price). The question is: wich would you people recommend? I don´t think temperature nor HFE testing would be that important for me, but, essentially, i´m not really sure about the difference between the originals and their plus counterparts and couldn´t find any info online. I did find however the UT136B+ TEARDOWN here:
Thanks for sharing the video. I have a UT136C (with temp) and it is a very compact and well built meter. It is also silent, which for me is a big plus (Uni-T insists in beeping at power on and at every change of range). However, from the video I can tell the "plus" variant has better input protection. As with everything else, it boils down to price.
I personally dislike the transistor checker in a multimeter and, if this is important for you, I would save for one of the cheap component testers on Aliexpress/Banggood. Dave did a review at video 1020.
https://youtu.be/7Br3L1B80ow
Also a little bit expensier i ve seen UT890C wich is Trms but a little off topic...
This one is manual range and TurboTom's suggestion seems to be much better suited for that - I think this meter is also sold as Aneng AN870 (https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMAnengAN870%20UK.html). The UT139C to me also seems to be a better choice.
Wich would you recommend as a first meter? or should i just buy some generic DMM and save my money for something else?
I would definitely recommend the DMMs that are cheaper at this stage in your path to electronics. Fortunately the options are much reduced in price with still a good quality when compared to decades ago.
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Thanks both of you for your recomendations! :clap: :clap:
importing is out of the scope since i would probably get the dmm in 2021 that way. Found what it seems to be an aneng870 with other brand on it at the same money range of 136b, so i´m gonna have to decide between those two.
Saw your nice video rsjsousa :-+, and ut139c seems really solid but sadly those are sold over 100US here. Anyways, the 136C seemed quite good for the price, and i'm with you, its really annoying when the thing beeps just for switching the dial.
For anyone interested, the person who uploaded the video i shared told:
"Back when I went to buy this (plus version) the seller showed me the 136b and it felt very sturdy and the range selector felt very snappy compared to 136b+, and also the build quality felt better too.. but I didn't buy that because of the 9v battery. This one has a long battery life, it's been running on the same pair of alkaline batteries since purchase."
Thanks again and best of luck!
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Thanks both of you for your recomendations! :clap: :clap:
importing is out of the scope since i would probably get the dmm in 2021 that way. Found what it seems to be an aneng870 with other brand on it at the same money range of 136b, so i´m gonna have to decide between those two.
Just beware of an "AN870-like". I reviewed a very similar meter (Surpeer AV4, similar in specs and look) and it was an unfinished product with frustrating limitations. Make sure you are able to test it and see if less used functions such as min/max, relative speed of bargraph (if it has one), etc. work well.
Saw your nice video rsjsousa :-+, and ut139c seems really solid but sadly those are sold over 100US here. Anyways, the 136C seemed quite good for the price, and i'm with you, its really annoying when the thing beeps just for switching the dial.
For anyone interested, the person who uploaded the video i shared told:
"Back when I went to buy this (plus version) the seller showed me the 136b and it felt very sturdy and the range selector felt very snappy compared to 136b+, and also the build quality felt better too.. but I didn't buy that because of the 9v battery. This one has a long battery life, it's been running on the same pair of alkaline batteries since purchase."
Thanks again and best of luck!
I am glad you liked the video and thanks for sharing the poster's experience comparing the two. My UT136C is used quite often and it still has the original 9V battery on it (the absence of a beep helps with that).
I did a power consumption comparison at the link below.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg2100013/#msg2100013 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg2100013/#msg2100013)
One additional plus for 9V batteries is the fact they rarely leak - I have had several products be partially or totally damaged recently and I am pretty pissed at AA and AAA batteries.
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Not the same, but i bought Uni-T UT61D for one week ago, and i returned it before i left the parking lot. Crappy LCD and å beeping sound when i turned it to current setting.
I bought Extech 505 instead. Much better and nicer price here in Norway.
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å beeping sound when i turned it to current setting.
You know some meters beep when there's no cable in the amps socket, right?
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I have a UT136C which started playing up. The volts would not zero, and fluctuated around 130mV :bullshit:, and I couldn't trust the other ranges.
So I opened it up. THe opening of these things isn't really posted up properly nor is there much detail in the manual.
After removing the battery and two lower screws, the case halves separate around the seam in the red plastic mid-way between top and bottom.
Separate the case near the lead connectors first, then pull it apart hinging on the battery end, and disengage the two plastic lugs near the top.
Inside, I found a number of areas where flux had been left around some through-hole soldering. Especially the "SELECT" switch.
So I removed the flux with a screwdriver, then cleaned the board both sides with isopropyl, dried it off, and reassembled.
Make sure both side lugs are engaged above the PCB or else the switch won't operate correctly and you'll be opening it up again.
Good news - the meter started reading properly again. While I was at it I found some decent leads as the OEM ones are terrible and one probe had fallen off.
So - all back up and running. 0V reads 0.1mV. Also 0 ohms reads zero which is nice. And the continuity beeper is REALLY responsive.
Original purchase price was £11.86 so I suppose I can't grumble....