Uh oh... all of reasonably high precision meters broke

[DiddlyJackSquat]

Well, I should have upped the ante on the GAS years ago 
U1273AX has a broken screen which thankfully can be used with the bluetooth thing and yeah it works
my other UT61E i sold it to my friend and he promptly blew the current traces up because he's an idiot UT61E's NOT the kind of meter for crazy current possible scenarios the fuse AND trace goes bang (he placed it in current mode across a escooter's battery)
and then my UT61E popped after i guess 7 years? I used it fine and then now it went from slow turn on to only turning on for a split second when I detach the battery  Tried everything, contact switch, cleaning zebra strip, checking battery contact, changing batteries and I'm not too fussed on searching for dead components, I don't have the time.
Yikes. Not too bad but i didn't really use it much until a year ago anyway


As I quote photoninduction " I POPPED IT!! " 
So, what do I buy now to replace it. Maybe i don't need 20k but I probably prefer it to be around 6000 resolution with passable input protection like the uni-t. don't need to be absolutely overkill for poking around with low energy situations. Oh preferably about the same price as well
Saw the anengs and its oems, not sure about its resilience. I had a mastech, sold it off because their displays are butt. Maybe another UT61E?

[Saskia]

the UT 171 was about the best UniT I ever saw. I would recommend it.

[rsjsouza]

If you don't need a bargraph, the UT139C is a reasonably well built meter and with decent input protection. It also does not break the bank.

If you can go higher on the price, the BM235 from Dave's store is very robust. For yet a bit more and with bargraph, the BM257S is the next step.

The sky is the limit from that point and on.

[DiddlyJackSquat]

Thanks.

In all honesty it doesn't take much to be better than most uni-t meters 
But i liked the UT61E a lot because it does have the precision and you can toss it around

If you don't need a bargraph, the UT139C is a reasonably well built meter and with decent input protection. It also does not break the bank.

If you can go higher on the price, the BM235 from Dave's store is very robust. For yet a bit more and with bargraph, the BM257S is the next step.

The sky is the limit from that point and on.

i was looking at ut139c but i need a bargraph and i would pay 20$ extra for the 61e
I looked at BM235 too but errrrrr for some reason i cannot explain its pretty much double the price once it gets here. That's a real shame.

[rsjsouza]

In all honesty it doesn't take much to be better than most uni-t meters 
But i liked the UT61E a lot because it does have the precision and you can toss it around

I also like the UT61E, but unfortunately it is electrically fragile.

[DiddlyJackSquat]

In all honesty it doesn't take much to be better than most uni-t meters 
But i liked the UT61E a lot because it does have the precision and you can toss it around

I also like the UT61E, but unfortunately it is electrically fragile.

mine worked for 8 years not too bad i say 

[bd139]

Mine drifted out of cal faster than a drunk walking up a hill  . Sure it's precise but for about 10 minutes after the box is opened.

[Saskia]

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Fluke-Multimeter-87V-True-RMS/174115248530

[DiddlyJackSquat]

Mine drifted out of cal faster than a drunk walking up a hill  . Sure it's precise but for about 10 minutes after the box is opened.

That's unfortunate. Mine stayed accurate for several years 

[Electro Detective]

If you want to 'stay with what you know'    consider a couple of used ones from meter upgraders blowing birthday and or divorce settlement cash on Flukes, Brymens, Keysites etc   

Post a request ad here, you may get lucky 

[DiddlyJackSquat]

If you want to 'stay with what you know'    consider a couple of used ones from meter upgraders blowing birthday and or divorce settlement cash on Flukes, Brymens, Keysites etc   

Post a request ad here, you may get lucky 

  i'll probably buy a ut61d or E off china and get it cheaper. buying used may just cost me the same amount in shipping 

[DiddlyJackSquat]

Update : got a UT61D in and the continuity is trash 
as a last ditch attempt i reflowed the UT61E and it started working again! 

[rsjsouza]

I am sorry to hear that; that is one of my biggest peeves with UniT: a given model number can have radically different features depending on its letter suffix. Case in point: the "E" variant has very good continuity.

(P.S. Specifically for the UT61, there are even models with better protection but no difference in their name).

[DiddlyJackSquat]

I am sorry to hear that; that is one of my biggest peeves with UniT: a given model number can have radically different features depending on its letter suffix. Case in point: the "E" variant has very good continuity.

(P.S. Specifically for the UT61, there are even models with better protection but no difference in their name).

I reflowed my ut61e and got it working everytime momentarily then i found a leaky ecap. Replaced that and reflowed it again. Works perfectly!
Yeah shame about the UT61D. guess i'll use it for certain specific uses now just not for tracking down shorts and continuity issues 

EDIT : it's crapping out again
https://streamable.com/taqv7

Update : anyone who has the same issues can try touching up the joints on the ecaps near the black monolithic thing. Fixed it!

[Wolfgang]

Agreed. I bought a bunch of those (Fluke 87V) after chasing a circuit problem for two days that indeed was in my cheap multimeter. Never happened again.

[DiddlyJackSquat]

Agreed. I bought a bunch of those (Fluke 87V) after chasing a circuit problem for two days that indeed was in my cheap multimeter. Never happened again.

Very essential. I'm now ok with my 61E