I need to do something like this to my DP832A. It's like the steps on the encoder are about 1/3 of a step out of phase with the detents and makes it impossible to move voltage or current up/down one notch at a time because every 3rd or 4th turn it skips a digit. Really infuriating. 
I learned all about how crappy most Asian rotary encoders are with or without detents, they just raise additional problems.
I guess as some have stated lots of driver tweaking could probably save the day. However on my arduino experiments with encoders I came across a NOS optical encoder and what a difference. No having to deal with contact bounce. Firm but continuous knob torque. Night and day.
So while I don't yet have this DSO (yet, I'm an old analog scope guy) if I wanted to really improve the encoders I would swap them out with magnetic or optical encoders.
I replaced my encoder with this one : http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-3Pcs-6mm-D-Shaft-18-Position-360-Degree-Rotary-Encoder-w-Push-Button/32338458200.html
It's working fine in menus ( selecting triggering source for example ), but works in reverse when modifying values (increasing intensity, I2C trigger address, etc) - as in if I rotate it forward it actually decrements the value. Also, it's quite a bit taller than the original one.
Does anyone have a link where a matching rotary encoder can be purchased from ( deliverable to US ).
BTW how are people desoldering the rotary encoder ? For me it was a HUGE hassle & I ended up damaging the rotary encoder because I had trouble desoldering it.
Tip: Before installing the rotary encoder, I disassembled it and desensitized the clicking membrane to actuate around 180 grams-force instead of the default ~680 grams-force - this made a huge improvement in usability.
The ALPS EC12E2424407 part I used works in the correct sense for intensity, I2C address etc.
The knob extends about 0.5mm further out than the others with he ALPS part: it's a plastic shaft so easily filed down slightly if aesthetically you can't cope with that: if you didn't know you wouldn't notice it, I haven't bothered.
It does apparently have slightly less push force than the others knobs too.
Did mine today, used Alps EC12E2424407 as previously suggested. I only changed the menu encoder as the others rarely give me grief. I noticed that the shaft was about 0.75mm longer than the original encoder so I filed it down so it was exactly the same length before installing it. What i didn't notice was that the flat side of the Alps encoder shaft doesn't extend as far down as on the original, so the knob sat about 1mm proud. At this point I had the scope mostly back together and decided it was too hard/risky to try to modify the shaft with it mounted in the scope so I ground down the stop inside the knob instead which worked perfectly. It is sooo much nicer to use now, you'll wonder why you didn't think to do this earlier! Even the menu lag issue is mitigated slightly - if you want to go up 3 times then you just need to count 3 detents instead of arbitrarily turning it and having to watch the screen. Obviously, there is a software polling speed so if you turn it very quickly it'll miss some of the detents.
. It is sooo much nicer to use now, you'll wonder why you didn't think to do this earlier! Even the menu lag issue is mitigated slightly - if you want to go up 3 times then you just need to count 3 detents instead of arbitrarily turning it and having to watch the screen. Obviously, there is a software polling speed so if you turn it very quickly it'll miss some of the detents.
Yes! The far better usability is worth the mod :-)
Did mine today, used Alps EC12E2424407 as previously suggested. I only changed the menu encoder as the others rarely give me grief. I noticed that the shaft was about 0.75mm longer than the original encoder so I filed it down so it was exactly the same length before installing it. What i didn't notice was that the flat side of the Alps encoder shaft doesn't extend as far down as on the original, so the knob sat about 1mm proud.
FWIW, I measured the knob protrusion difference on mine with a feeler gauge and the new Alps one is 0.55mm (22mil) prouder.
Whether it's worth taking a file to it or not I'd guess is up to the beholder, I haven't done it, but never say never!
Thanks to Howardlong and Penguin36 for finding the part number. Bought it weeks ago for 5 Pounds in UK. Today I finally had the time (and courage) to replace the encoder and it works like a charm. Unsoldering took some time and plenty of leaded solder.
Now that the fan is silenced with a resistor (6V instead of 12V) and the menu button annoyance is resolved, the scope is perfect (for me).
Daniel
Let's see... waste a couple of seconds by not being careful when pushing the knob and having to re-select the correct item.... vs. voiding the manufacturer's warranty
According to the warranty contract only "
Repaired by anyone who is not from RIGOL Maintenance Center or an authorized maintenance branch" will void the warranty. So this means that opening up your scope and making modification to it does not void the warranty, because you are not repairing the equipment, you are making modifications to it. In fact, making modifications is protected under the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act. They can only deny repair coverage if, they can prove, your modifications are the cause of the problem with the equipment.
http://www.rigolna.com/warranty/
Thanks to Howardlong and Penguin36 for finding the part number. Bought it weeks ago for 5 Pounds in UK. Today I finally had the time (and courage) to replace the encoder and it works like a charm. Unsoldering took some time and plenty of leaded solder.
Now that the fan is silenced with a resistor (6V instead of 12V) and the menu button annoyance is resolved, the scope is perfect (for me).
Daniel
I didn't really do anything other than affirm that Penguin36's mod works, and I was lucky enough to have the right encoders in stock. Interestingly, while using the scope recently I'd completely forgotten I'd done the mod, I'd become so used to it: it'd be interesting to see how I felt about the scope if I undid it again! Equally, I'd not even noticed the 0.55mm additional excursion of the knob either, so as a result I won't be filing it down now I guess.
I guess there's no harm in bumping this thread on a very helpful modification up again... Modified my DS1054Z today, with the same encoder suggested before (ALPS EC12E2424407). I can just second that the rotary knob is much easier to use for me now!
It's not just avoiding the sporadic additional step when pushing the button -- I had reasonable control over that, but it did happen often enough to be annyoing. But you also get nice haptic feedback when you want to rotate the knob a defined number of steps, e.g. when stepping down two channels while selecting the trigger input. Registering (counting?) the clicks happens totally unconsciously, but for me is much more pleasant than having to observe the display to see when the right selection has been reached.
On the other hand, the detents are subtle enough, so they don't become annoying when one has to rotate the knob several times. Overall, a highly recommended mod!
As a side note -- while I had the scope disassembled, I noticed that the screen is indeed protected by a glass plate, not plastic. I recall that this was debated in some other thread a while ago. A decent thickness too (approx. 2.5 mm), so Rigo did not skimp on this. Makes me feel better about having the scope directly on my desk, rather than on a shelf, while working with a soldering iron...
I also did this mod to a 1074z-s - totally worth doing, especially with the AWG.
Would be nice if someone took the time to include photos of the steps they took to disassemble it and what security bits are required, might be easier to decide if the effort/risk is worth it.
I can add that the Rigol PCB is of very nice quality and that desoldering the original encoder is pretty easy with any kind of solder sucker(including the manual kind).
Also, I did file down the shaft on the new encoder 0.5mm so the knob sits exactly the same as the original.
Also, I did file down the shaft on the new encoder 0.5mm so the knob sits exactly the same as the original.
I wonder if AvE has done the mod on his DS1054Z with one of his two dozen angle grinders?
Today I also applied this mod to my 1054Z.
Quite happy with the results.
While removing the keyboard PCB, I was a bit surprised to see on the back side an ASIC to handle the few keys, LEDs and encoders that are present on the board. I was expecting a more low level uC for that.
Today I also applied this mod to my 1054Z.
Quite happy with the results.
I might have a go when my official guarantee runs out. I'd be interested in adding a separate push button for menu selection as well.
[...] I'd be interested in adding a separate push button for menu selection as well.
Give the detented encoder a try first; it does make a big difference! Before the mod, pushing the encoder to select something (without unintentionally rotating it) has always been a conscious action for me. Not to the extent of "hold tongue at right angle" -- but nevertheless it certainly did not feel effortless and automatic.
Upgrading to the encoder with detents has totally changed this. I now just rotate the desired number of steps and push; it's quite intuitive and not a conscious exercise anymore. Hence I don't feel a need for a separate button. Wiring one up would be straightforward, of course, but I would recommend trying without it before you drill an additional hole into the front ;-)
[...] I'd be interested in adding a separate push button for menu selection as well.
Give the detented encoder a try first; it does make a big difference! Before the mod, pushing the encoder to select something (without unintentionally rotating it) has always been a conscious action for me. Not to the extent of "hold tongue at right angle" -- but nevertheless it certainly did not feel effortless and automatic.
Does the original white knob fit on that encoder?
Does the original white knob fit on that encoder?
As someone mentioned earlier in the thread, the new encoder axis is about half a millimeter longer than on the stock encoders, so the knob will sit slightly higher. The (plastic) axis can be filed/trimmed down if this annoys you; I did not bother, because the difference is hardly noticeable.
On my unit, the knob also does not sit quite as tight on the new axis as it did before. I had originally thought about jamming in a bit of plastic film to fixate it more strongly -- but did not do anything so far, and the knob has never come loose.
The quick and cheap mod is the infamous "Rigol knob swap".
Swap with one of the bigger knobs to gain better control.
Anyone know a source for buying the bigger knobs?
I guess you can try with one of the existing ones, but I would not bother. My frustration is when I press to select something and it selects the next/previous item, not sure the bigger knob would prevent this.
Exactly this^^^^^^
Try it, they just pull off, push on.
I might also try the "bigger knob" trick. I've got some really big knobs somewhere.
Would be nice if someone took the time to include photos of the steps they took to disassemble it and what security bits are required, might be easier to decide if the effort/risk is worth it.
I modded mine last night - didn't get any photos, but as others have pointed out it's quite straightforward and teardown videos are easy to find. Required tools are a regular Torx T10 driver, something to remove a 14mm hex nut (around the rear trigger out BNC), and soldering kit. Takes quite a bit of heat to do the soldering, I just cut the old encoder off to make the job a bit easier. Haven't used the scope much since, but like the feel of the new encoder so far. -Ian-
I bought the switch from Newark
Stock Number 74M1068
Part Number EC12E2424407
I wanted parts from a reputable source so these cost $2.27 each.
The mod is worth every bit of the time it took to do. It makes menu selection a lot cleaner.
Has someone tried this modification on a DS4000?
Coincidentally I just replaced the encoder on my DS4014. Check the post in
the other thread.