RIGOL DS2000 mod - silent fan

[ilcibernetico]

Hi guys,
i finally bought a fantastic DS2072 oscilloscope.
After an initial inspection, I updated the firmware to the latest version and installed all options thanks to this blog:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/sniffing-the-rigol 's-internal-i2c-bus /
The only flaw I found is that the fan is very noisy, my lab is very quiet.
To solve the problem, I purchased a quiet fan NOCTUA 60x60mm model NF-A6x25 FLX : http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=48&lng=en

In order not to void the warranty, I removed the seal without damaging it.
I used the hot air station to heat the seal without damaging it.
The first step is to remove the 4 screws that hold the lids.
After removing the screws, start to heat seal the lid away slowly ....



the seal will remain attached to the lid.





Remove the nut of the BNC connector and all the screws that hold the shield



Here is the Noctua.
It provides as an option, the use of 3 speed settings for full flexibility
Providing 3000, 2400 and 1600 rpm speed settings via the supplied Low-Noise and Ultra-Low-Noise Adapters.
I have not used adapters.



Remove the connector on the motherboard and the fan screw.



The noctua involves the use of a fixing system in silicone to reduce vibration and therefore decrease the noise





here is the fan fixed with silicon supports





I had to get a plug adapter for the electrical connection.
Here is the fan installed :



At the end of the installation, I approached the cap carefully, leaning against the seal and gently pressing to adhere the adhesive.
Et voila changes you make with success!



Now the noise is acceptable  and the fan still guarantees a good ventilation.
I hope this guide will be of help to people like me who has the sensitive hearing!
Thank you and congratulations for the contribution given to the forum.

Bye

ilcibernetico

[nctnico]

I like the silicone mounting hardware. But... did you check the amount of airflow of the fan? As far as I can tell from your pictures the old one is 0.19A and the new one is 0.12A which leads me to suspect the new fan doesn't move as much air as the old one.

[Clint]

What does it sound like with the original fan and the new silicone mountings ?

Also the mountings look like they stand the fan away slightly this would reduce the flow somewhat.

[ilcibernetico]

The absorption of the fan is influential on performance.
The original fan is thinner and is an "economic" model compared to the Noctua.
Ta original fan has an air flow of 0.52 M3/min = 31.2 m3 / h
The Noctua has an air flow of 29.2 m3 / h

[ilcibernetico]

What does it sound like with the original fan and the new silicone mountings ?

The silicon supports reduce vibration but I think the more noise is produced by the original fan speed (5500rpm) compared to the 3000RPM noctua.
The acoustical noise of original fan is 39dB(A) and acoustical noise of Noctua fan is 19.3dB(A) at same Airflow 

Also the mountings look like they stand the fan away slightly this would reduce the flow somewhat.

I do not think will affect much anyway you could put a small neoprene frame...

[Hydrawerk]

In fact many Agilent instruments also have noisy fans. I would forgive this.

[ilcibernetico]

In fact many Agilent instruments also have noisy fans. I would forgive this.

Unfortunately many expensive tools do not have a silent cooling system...

[BravoV]

The absorption of the fan is influential on performance.
The original fan is thinner and is an "economic" model compared to the Noctua.
Ta original fan has an air flow of 0.52 M3/min = 31.2 m3 / h
The Noctua has an air flow of 29.2 m3 / h

Air flow figure doesn't mean anything, cause it was measured while the fan running with "no obstructions" at all at the intake and out take, its like hanging the fan in the middle of the air and measure the how much air it moves. It is only useful when comparing identical fans, but with different settings like power levels or different RPMs. Same as RPM figure, only useful for comparing "identical" fan, otherwise its meaning less.

What matter is the static pressure, more means more power to "push" air through obstructions, so the air can flow through and moves the heat in this case. Fan which has less static pressure (in your case here) at same obstructions (the same scope), means less air flowing through those heated parts like heatsinks and components which are cramped packed inside the tiny scope box.

The original fan has 6.22 mm/H2O while that Noctua only has 2.18 mm/H2O, almost 3 times less powerful. 

Simple analogies, if you have a deflated or a new balloon that only starting to inflate (mark the word "starting") when there is pressure point at 3 mm/H2O, so if our have weak lung no matter how hard you blow it, that can only put a static pressure at 2.9999 mm/H2O, the balloon won't even bulge and leave your kid crying waiting to play with it. 

For "serious" fan with good high static pressure, look for well known industrial brand like SanyoDenki, Nidec, Pabst, Servo or NMB (look for old Panaflo brand).

[Hydrawerk]

By the way, Agilent uses some rubber mounting method for the fan in their DSOX2000 / 3000 scopes. Photo by Dave Jones.


While Tektronix uses normal screws...
https://plus.google.com/photos/106264218831814439783/albums/5877858521093564545/5877858766843871554?pid=5877858766843871554&oid=106264218831814439783

[Fsck]

actually, computer fans tend to come with zero useful information.

What we want is:

[BravoV]

actually, computer fans tend to come with zero useful information.

What we want is:

Yep, just don't want to be too harsh to the OP  , that Noctua is more emphasizing on the "bling" factor which is needed in PC modding world rather than the true performance.

About the noise, you just can't beat law of physics, its just not possible to have a typhoon grade air flow without noise at all, right ? 

Ok, maybe at certain point like "little" less turbulent noise with an improved blade design, or better bearing system to "reduce" grinding ball bearing noise, but these factors will not make it like night or day different.

Simple, more air flow = better cooling = more noise, period.

[Hydrawerk]

Is the Rigol chassis made of iron steel?

[ilcibernetico]

For "serious" fan with good high static pressure, look for well known industrial brand like SanyoDenki, Nidec, Pabst, Servo or NMB (look for old Panaflo brand).

it's amazing how many models of fan produces the SANYO DENKI  !

[Fsck]

For "serious" fan with good high static pressure, look for well known industrial brand like SanyoDenki, Nidec, Pabst, Servo or NMB (look for old Panaflo brand).

it's amazing how many models of fan produces the SANYO DENKI  !

they even produce some in size+depth combinations I've never ever seen

[BravoV]

For "serious" fan with good high static pressure, look for well known industrial brand like SanyoDenki, Nidec, Pabst, Servo or NMB (look for old Panaflo brand).

it's amazing how many models of fan produces the SANYO DENKI  !

Actually for 60x25mm fan, its "relatively" easy to find compared to others weirdo non standard sized fans.

About Sanyo Denki, look for something similar like these below (photo of my 60x25 nos fans), trust me, these are very high quality made fan. Have been using them for almost decades and many of them are still running well today at 24x7 for more than 10 years. 

Suggesting to stop using that Noctua, your scope's components life may be shortened significantly because of higher temperature inside.

[ilcibernetico]

For "serious" fan with good high static pressure, look for well known industrial brand like SanyoDenki, Nidec, Pabst, Servo or NMB (look for old Panaflo brand).

it's amazing how many models of fan produces the SANYO DENKI  !

Actually for 60x25mm fan, its "relatively" easy to find compared to others weirdo non standard sized fans.

About Sanyo Denki, look for something similar like these below (photo of my 60x25 nos fans), trust me, these are very high quality made fan. Have been using them for almost decades and many of them are still running well today at 24x7 for more than 10 years. 

Suggesting to stop using that Noctua, your scope's components life may be shortened significantly because of higher temperature inside.

It depends on what use is made of an instrument.
I am a hobbyist, I turn on the oscilloscope occasionally.
I'd be curious to monitor the temperature with the old fan and the noctua to make a real comparison of the temperature difference.
The fan speed is variable, there is an internal controller who is dealing with.
I think that the internal temperature is the same, perhaps the controller will increase the speed of Noctua than the original.
The problem may occur in summer, when the outdoor temperature was too high.
In my lab will not be a problem, the temperature is constant at 20 ° celsius ....

[BravoV]

Suit your self, its your scope, just a suggestion. 

The fan speed is variable, there is an internal controller who is dealing with.
I think that the internal temperature is the same, perhaps the controller will increase the speed of Noctua than the original.

Your logic is flaw there, at high temp the controller will try to crank up the fan to max speed, still its only 1/3 of the original one at "full speed" which may not be enough.

Anyway, just forget about it, no big deal, by that time maybe you bored to death with it, and probably upgrade to new one. 

[Carrington]

I have plans to do exactly the same (using the same replacement) with my DS2072, I haven't done yet because it's in warranty. As it is winter here and the fan speed is regulated by temperature, now does not sound much. So, for now I will not touch it.

[AndersAnd]

Do you have a close-up picture of the label on the original fan? It's hard to tell what it says in the picture above.

[ilcibernetico]

Do you have a close-up picture of the label on the original fan? It's hard to tell what it says in the picture above.

http://www.glofn.com/english/dcsearch.asp?Submit2=%CB%D1%CB%F7&ds=26

[AndersAnd]

Do you have a close-up picture of the label on the original fan? It's hard to tell what it says in the picture above.

http://www.glofn.com/english/dcsearch.asp?Submit2=%CB%D1%CB%F7&ds=26

Yeah, but what does your sticker say?
Doesn't it say 0.16A?
Does it say anything about RPM?

[Fsck]

Do you have a close-up picture of the label on the original fan? It's hard to tell what it says in the picture above.

http://www.glofn.com/english/dcsearch.asp?Submit2=%CB%D1%CB%F7&ds=26

Yeah, but what does your sticker say?
Doesn't it say 0.16A?
Does it say anything about RPM?

looks like 0.16A to me too.
however, RPM is rarely listed on the fans

[AndersAnd]

And how can you tell it's a type 6015II and not a type 6015I? Or maybe even a custom model for Rigol?

6015I http://www.glofn.com/english/dcsearch.asp?Submit2=%CB%D1%CB%F7&ds=25
6015II http://www.glofn.com/english/dcsearch.asp?Submit2=%CB%D1%CB%F7&ds=26

As far as I can tell I says GLOFN GFA06015H12H on the sticker. Same fan as used on the old DS1000E series scopes:

http://www.wabbitwanch.net/blog/?p=984


https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/rigol-1052e-fan-replacement/msg322260/#msg322260



How can you tell if GFA06015H12H translates to 6015I or 6015II of at all?

GFLON's "How to read a DC Fan part number" makes no sense at all. I can't see how this table relates to either GFA06015H12H or 6015I / 6015II?
http://www.glofn.com/english/parameters.asp



The funny thing it the table has the name of another fan company in the top right corner: ACT-RX Technology Corporation.

And if you look at the model names at ACT-RX's website, the model numbers actually related to the table at GFLON's  website:
http://www.actrx.com.tw/en/index.php/web/products_i/1/212795
There's three 12 V 60x15 models:
FD1260-A10XXC
FD1260-A20XXC
FD1260-A30XXC

Not sure what the realtion between GFLON an ACT-RX is? Maybe GFLON is the OEM for ACT-RX fans? Or maybe GFLON just stole the table from ACT-RX's website?

ACT-RX's 60x15 fans:

[Carrington]

I search this at google: GFA06015H12H 

It seems a 12V 0.16A (probably max.):


And it can be either of those two, but not much difference.


Please excuse my bad English.

[AndersAnd]

Search this at google: GFA06015H12H 

It seems a 12V 0.16A (probably max.):


And can be either of those two, but there is little difference:

Yes as far as I can tell it says 0.16 A, so it wouldn't be the H model he highlighted in red:


That model says:
Rated current: 0.18
Reaed Current (Max.): 0.19

[What the hell does Readed mean anyway?]


So it would either be 6015I model M or 6015II model M instead. Both have a Reaed Current (Max.) of 0.16