RuiDeng Riden RD6006 DC power supply

[rolfdegen]

solution...

To solve the problem, I have created a monostable flip-flop
from IC X1b and X1c into the "current protection" circuit.



The flip-flop has the task of transmitting the positive pulse from IC1b
(current monitor) to approx. 2 sec. and thus extend the
Disable power transistor via diode D8 for this time.
At the same time a pulse is sent to the "BAT" connector in the RD6006 controller
is sent for the output to be switched off.

The output or the voltage can be switched off easily with the "ON/OFF" button
can be switched on again.

Small uncommented video: https://youtu.be/AZoQMlnibA8


Greetings from germany. Rolf 

[rolfdegen]

Addendum to the last circuit diagram: Resistor R9 in the monostable
Flip-flop has a value of 680K Ohm and resistor R5 goes to GND.

Now follows the installation into the housing. The additional electronics (on the
plug-in board) is placed to the left of the board with the heat sink.

All components wzB the power transistor with heat sink,
Rectifier diodes and power supply unit are positioned so that they can be
fans can be well cooled without obstacles.

The temperature sensor for fan control is mounted on the heat sink
fixed. The fan starts with the smallest fan stage at 38 C degrees at the
heat sink.



The board with the heat sink is from a Vellemann
Power supply kit with a uA723 which I do not use.

Greeting Rolf

[rolfdegen]

Hello friends..

Little progress report. I've already soldered part of the circuit board.
For the power connections I paid attention to short connections and
the relay (blue component) for switching the transformer windings very
soldered far forward near the connections. The protective conductor
(green/yellow line) I have not forgotten. This one is also called
connected to the housing.



Greetings. Rolf

[masterx81]

Whoa! a lot of work. Have already tried the stability to sudden load, ripple, etc?

[rolfdegen]

Yes... it looks very good. 32V and 3.2A is very stable and still under reserve from the transformer (160VA). When it is ready I will make a video and show ripple and noise and other measurements.

Greetings from germany. Rolf

[rolfdegen]

Hello, everybody.

The installation is almost complete. I just need to drill the holes for the
Drill holes in the bottom of the housing to fix the circuit boards.

I have made a few measurements before. The ripple and noise was
at a load of 10V/3A over 560mVpp (see 1.picture). But this was due to
the too high capacitance of C7 in the negative feedback circuit of IC1a. To
some tests with smaller capacitor values and a
series resistor with 680pF in the negative feedback circuit I have
and noise to a value of 40mVpp (2.picture).

Pic1


Pic2


Pic3


The question remains, if I can optimize this in the circuit a bit
?

For help and suggestions I am very receptive

Greetings Rolf

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

[rolfdegen]

Now I have increased the capacitor C1 at the output from 100uF to 470uF.
The rib dropped from 40mVpp to maximum 20mVpp (3A load).
Without load at the output the ripple is 7mVpp high.


Load: 10V/0.0A


Load: 10V/3.0A

[rolfdegen]

Hello..

The installation is now almost complete. I just have to
Enlarge the housing opening for the 80s fan on the back.
I have the control cables from the RD6006 controller
Ribbon cable connected to the board. This makes everything easier
disassemble.



Regarding ripple and noise measurement on the RD6006, I would like to add one
very interesting video by Jerry Walker. It shows two
RD6006 power supply versions. The top device is with a
Switching power supply and the lower one with a linear power supply.

The measurements can be seen in the video from 29:30 min. First the RD6006 with
Switching power supply and then the modified version with linear power supply.

Link: https://youtu.be/NHN1z1N7QvU?t=1770

My ripple and noise measurements at maximum load (32V / 3.2A) showed
a maximum Vpp value of 29mV and a VRMS value of 2.5mV
(3rd picture).

No load


Max load 32V/3.2A



The Jerry Walker conversion only applies to the power supply. The
Control takes place as in the original power supply with the switching regulator on the
RD6006 controller board. You can do that in the video at the 200mVpp
Detect switching impulses.

Greetings Rolf

[rolfdegen]

Hello..

I have optimized the power supply circuit a little. To the
Regulate the output voltage of the power supply to approximately 0 volts
1K resistance between emitter and base of Q4 against a diode
exchanged. I have adjusted R13 from 100 Ohm to 82 Ohm (1st picture). V4
is the control voltage from the RD6006 controller (0-1.42 volts).

Simulation circuit


The residual ripple (ripple and noise) at the power supply output is included
a load of 3.3 amps under 6mVpp or 1.85VRMS (Fig. 2 + 3). I
have the power supply with different output voltages and loads
tested and can no longer detect vibrations. The
Output voltage remains very stable up to 32V and 3.3A.

no Load


Load 10V/3.3A


The next step is temperature measurements in the housing and the complete circuit.

Greetings Rolf

[pantelei4]

I would leave a step-down pulse converter, and put a linear regulator at the output. For the linear stabilizer to work, it is necessary to raise the pulse output by 2-3V relative to the required output voltage. This would solve the problem of large power dissipation on the regulating transistor in linear mode.

[rolfdegen]

But... The question then arises whether the ripple and noise will remain below 5mVpp.
Therefore I would have to change the firmware in the RD6006 controller. 

Load 10V/3.3A




Gerretings from germany. Rolf

[Marco]

Therefore I would have to change the firmware in the RD6006 controller.

Why?

[duckduck]

Still waiting for my RD6006 to show up. Being a noob, I'm learning while I wait.

Jim Williams explains how to measure switching noise and ripple:




Jim Williams explains how to smooth switching noise and ripple with a regulator:




Everyone around here is already familiar with Dave's "Fundamentals Friday" video on the capacitor multiplier:




 

[Marco]

Does the controller compensate for the voltage drop across the shunt in software?

[pantelei4]

Does the controller compensate for the voltage drop across the shunt in software?

It has a zero calibration and it is possible to adjust the offset to plus from the set value. At what maximum level I do not know.

[rolfdegen]

Hello..

I still had a little difference between the one displayed
Voltage values on the display and the voltage at the power supply output.
With the help of the software "Riden Power Supply Software" I was able to
Calibrate the power supply or adjust the current and voltage values.

Info: The code for calibrate is 168168



Since I don't quite get the lower voltage value with the calibration function
I have another one in my power supply circuit
High-resistance resistor R16 from the negated OPV input to the negative
Operating voltage connected.



Greetings from germany. Rolf

[ArthurDent]

One thing that drives me crazy is having to reach around the back of my stacked instruments to turn off the power. Just using the standby switch on the front of the RD6006 leaves the 60VDC supply on and that wastes some power so I always use the rear switch to turn it totally off. My solution to what I considered a problem was to add a switch to the front panel that is in series with the switch on the back and this added switch completely removes power from the 60VDC supply. There is almost no extra space on the front so I had to be creative.

It did require some careful modifications that I didn't find too bad but I don't take any responsibility for anyone else who might try this. The 3 photos show the mechanical modifications I had to make. First I cut off and removed the top plastic retaining tab on the front panel. This was necessary to give me enough side clearance so the switch wouldn't hit the flex circuit going to the display. The remaining bottom tab holds the front panel tight enough in the metal frame. With the tab removed I had a perfectly sized cutout area for the switch. I had to clip out a short narrow section of the circuit board that just had some of the ground plane on it and that short piece of the circuit board would have interfered with mounting the switch. I then carefully calculated where to drill the mounting hole for the switch. The switch I used was a C&K 7101 SPDT series. Next I soldered and put heat-shrink tubing on the two long leads going to the back of the case. Because the front panel is plastic I also soldered a wire to the side of the switch to ground it in case there was any breakdown in the switch insulation that could pose a safety hazard.

The photos should clearly show what I have described. While the switch on the back might not bother most people, I feel much better having the added switch on the front. 

[rolfdegen]

Hallo Arthur

That's a good idea 

But.. Is the switch suitable for 230V~ ? If not, there is a risk to life !!

Greetings. Rolf

[Cliff Matthews]

Hallo Arthur

That's a good idea 

But.. Is the switch suitable for 230V~ ? If not, there is a risk to life !!

Greetings. Rolf

How? The insulated bat-shaft, tube and washer out front are grounded..
After seeing years of wise ArthurDent posts, I know he'd put a fuse before this.

[rolfdegen]

The fuse is not a guarantee of your life. The isolation must be 1000V.




My recommendation: https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/C200/16-SERIE_600H-600NH-D.pdf

Greetings. Rolf

[ArthurDent]

Rolfdegen brings up a valid point.

I live in the United States where the mains voltage is 120VAC and the switch I used is rated to handle that voltage. I don't believe you could find a switch that size to handle 240VAC so you would have to do things a little differently if you lived in 240VAC areas. On my HP53132A counter I faced the same problem and didn't have enough space behind the front panel to mount a switch. What I did was similar to what a lot of equipment makers have done in the past. I used a stiff custom bent metal rod (a piece of coat hanger wire) to activate a larger properly rated push button toggle switch mounted further back in the case. The hole in the front panel and the clipped out section of circuit board would still have to be done but the plastic mounting clip on the RD6006 front panel could stay. You'd just have to fashion a proper mounting bracket for whatever switch you choose.

Here are photos of the HP53132A modification I made. The rod had to be bent to clear the prescaler and is coupled to the switch shaft with a piece of plastic air hose like you'd use in a fish tank. Making the modification this way would eliminate any concern about using a small switch no matter what your mains voltage is. 

[rolfdegen]

A lot of mechanical effort, but a good solution.

There are many devices on my work table that I have to switch on by hand.

Most have the power button on the back. Too stupid 

[rolfdegen]

Hello..

I have built a second power supply circuit with an LM317HV and power transistor as a current amplifier. I was interested in the load behavior and the ripple of the circuit.

What surprised me compared to the old circuit is the small ripple even under high load. The load pulse is also much smaller. In the old circuit I had up to 500mV peaks.

Circuit


Ripple & Noise no load


Ripple & Noise  load 10V/3100mA


Load switch on 3100mA


Load switch off


Geetings from gemany. Rolf

[9H1LO]

the 60V SMPS has died on me...does anyone have a schematic or could help identify the burnt resistor value ? maybe you have one opened up ?

PSU seems to be a cloned meanwell, PCB marking is S-350W-R4, the closest I found is a previous revision, most values match but there are some differences, particularly this burnt resistor doesn't show on it

The burnt resistor is marked SR1

thanks

[rolfdegen]

Hallo 9H1LO

Sorry. I have a different version of power supply JT-RD6006-NT 60VDC 6.6A.

I took a few pictures for you.





Greetings. Rolf