Self-Diagnostic for second hand Fluke 289

[monikersupreme]

Greetings & Salutations!!!

I purchased a Fluke 289 second hand a couple weeks ago and am expecting delivery of it in the next few days - the meter is way overkill for my needs but I got a pretty good deal on it (equivalent for what I would have paid for a new 87V at least) so even though it's pricey I decided to take the plunge.

Assuming I can boot up the 289 is there any kind of on-board self-diagnostic functionality I can use to determine if there are any problems (while I'm still technically in my return period)?

The 289 was listed as "recently purchased" and NIB...

Once I have the 289 in hand which physical components should I scrutinize (battery, board, leads, etc) - is there anything in particular I should look for to determine if I am dealing with a damaged or defective meter?

Assuming the device is functional I should be able to get output as to the build date and firmware but people also seem to be able to discern this from the S/N on the back of the case..

Is there any online reference for [S/N -> manufacture date] that I can use to look up my device number once I have it in hand?

Any advice would be much appreciated!!!

[bdunham7]

Go to Fluke and register as its owner.  If it hasn't been registered before, you should end up with the 'lifetime' 10 year warranty.  Although they technically could require proof of purchase from an authorized dealer, they typically don't. 

When you get it, turn it on and go to SETUP -- METER INFO.  You should get the serial #, the last calibration date and the calibration counter.  If the calibration counter is 1, then the calibration date will be the approximate date of manufacture.

[AVGresponding]

And whatever you do, don't use primary cells!

Mine runs happily on either Ni-Zn or Ni-MH, so there's no reason to risk the release of schmoo!

[monikersupreme]

Thanks for your response!!

Here is what I'm seeing:

Firmware Version: 1.16 / V0.88
Calibration Date: 09/06.17
Calibration Counter: 1

From the Fluke website it seems that 1.16 is for the "older" hardware and 1.41 is the newest revision of the firmware, however, I can't seem to find out what the functional difference might be between the two.

Is there any advantage to having a newer 289 with the v1.41 firmware?

[bdunham7]

I don't know of any advantage of the 1.41 firmware per se, but the newer meters that run it are also the ones that have had the supercaps superceded with something else (a lithium cell?) so that they don't get the leaky supercap disease.  1.16 is the latest for the old hardware.  If you can leave your batteries out overnight without losing the clock, then your supercap is still good.  Your meter is still fairly new, so I wouldn't worry a lot.  If you can, register it wiht Fluke and then just put it to work.

[BeBuLamar]

My 289 is version 1.16. Calibration date March 2017. I had it since new so it's never got recalibration. I removed the battery for about a week and the date and time is still correct.

[monikersupreme]

I don't know of any advantage of the 1.41 firmware per se, but the newer meters that run it are also the ones that have had the supercaps superceded with something else (a lithium cell?) so that they don't get the leaky supercap disease.  1.16 is the latest for the old hardware.  If you can leave your batteries out overnight without losing the clock, then your supercap is still good.  Your meter is still fairly new, so I wouldn't worry a lot.  If you can, register it wiht Fluke and then just put it to work.

I'll give that a shot. Thanks much.

Outside of the battery drain / memory loss is there any other symptom of supercap leak that I should look for - and if the supercap issue does show up do you think it's better to warranty the device or try to get a refund (purchased this for about $440 USD)?

[monikersupreme]

And whatever you do, don't use primary cells!

Mine runs happily on either Ni-Zn or Ni-MH, so there's no reason to risk the release of schmoo!

It came with a full flight of Energizer AAs installed - is it worth swapping these out then?

Any specific brand recommendations - or any I should avoid?

[bdunham7]

Those are likely the batteries that the meter came with!  How much life does the battery indicator show?  I'd use them up and then get Eneloops.

[monikersupreme]

Those are likely the batteries that the meter came with!  How much life does the battery indicator show?  I'd use them up and then get Eneloops.

Full I believe (although they are out now as per your earlier advice) - I'll look into Eneloops.

If the supercap issue presents on the new device do you think I should warranty the 289 or return it?

[bdunham7]

If the original batteries are in it and still good, the supercap is most likely good (high battery drain is one of the two symptoms).  That and the relative newness of it would make me guess that it is fine.  If you got a very good deal on it, then you don't want to return it even if Fluke wouldn't warranty it--the supercap replacement is no big deal. 

[monikersupreme]

If the original batteries are in it and still good, the supercap is most likely good (high battery drain is one of the two symptoms).  That and the relative newness of it would make me guess that it is fine.  If you got a very good deal on it, then you don't want to return it even if Fluke wouldn't warranty it--the supercap replacement is no big deal. 

Yeah I'm guessing it's good. With taxes and shipping my total was $440 which seems like a decent enough deal for a "new" 289 (based on what I've seen online). Once I verify that the memory I'l go register it and, assuming I don't have any problems there, I should be good to go.

Thanks again for all your advice!!!

[BeBuLamar]

If the original batteries are in it and still good, the supercap is most likely good (high battery drain is one of the two symptoms).  That and the relative newness of it would make me guess that it is fine.  If you got a very good deal on it, then you don't want to return it even if Fluke wouldn't warranty it--the supercap replacement is no big deal.

I think Fluke would warranty it because I have sent back 87V, 189 and 289 and all they asked for was the serial number. They didn't ask for receipt or anything like that.

[AVGresponding]

It came with a full flight of Energizer AAs installed - is it worth swapping these out then?

Any specific brand recommendations - or any I should avoid?

Definitely. Dave seems to think the reason for all modern alkalines to leak is that they no longer use mercury, and the different chemistry causes the problem. All I know is, I've seen Energizer and Duracell alike leak, and also many other brands.

I use Turnigy brand cells from Hobby King, as they are a lot cheaper than Eneloops, and as good, as near as I can tell. I am led to believe that the Ikea Ladda cells are made in the same factory as Eneloops, but some claim they are the reject ones.
I use a Maha Powerex charger for the Ni-MH but I don't have a specific one for the Ni-Zn so I have to use a bench power supply for that...

I believe one of the members here called HKJ has a website with reviews of many chargers and maybe batteries too?

[bdunham7]

Ikea Ladda cells are made in the same factory as Eneloops, but some claim they are the reject ones.

 

If your production line reject rate is enough to supply Ikea, you might have an issue or two.

[AVGresponding]

Ikea Ladda cells are made in the same factory as Eneloops, but some claim they are the reject ones.

 

If your production line reject rate is enough to supply Ikea, you might have an issue or two.

Indeed. I suspect they are every bit as good as eneloops, I just don't have any personal experience.

[Magnum]

Unfortunately in German, but a very good comparison:
https://www.pocketnavigation.de/2015/03/mignon-aa-akkus-test-vergleich/

The 2450mAh Ikea Ladda were tested with 2509 mAh

[monikersupreme]

It came with a full flight of Energizer AAs installed - is it worth swapping these out then?

Any specific brand recommendations - or any I should avoid?

Definitely. Dave seems to think the reason for all modern alkalines to leak is that they no longer use mercury, and the different chemistry causes the problem. All I know is, I've seen Energizer and Duracell alike leak, and also many other brands.

I use Turnigy brand cells from Hobby King, as they are a lot cheaper than Eneloops, and as good, as near as I can tell. I am led to believe that the Ikea Ladda cells are made in the same factory as Eneloops, but some claim they are the reject ones.
I use a Maha Powerex charger for the Ni-MH but I don't have a specific one for the Ni-Zn so I have to use a bench power supply for that...

I believe one of the members here called HKJ has a website with reviews of many chargers and maybe batteries too?

If Eneloops are the gold standard then I don't mind splurging on a set since I suspect they will last me for quite awhile:

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA8BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSN5I/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=eneloop+aa&qid=1638565942&sr=8-5

Are the higher capacity Eneloop Pro's "worth it" - and does the brand of the AA charger I use matter?

[bdunham7]

Are the higher capacity Eneloop Pro's "worth it" - and does the brand of the AA charger I use matter?

I'm not sure the Pro is worth it for low-drain devices.  It is higher capacity and shorter overall life, although it is advertised as Low Self Discharge.  The charger matters a lot--not just the brand--and there have been threads on this.  You want a smart one, not a dumb 'timed' model.  Even the Panasonic-branded ones vary--I have the BQ-CC17 which is good, but other ones are not.  It only does 4 at at time, which means you have to think ahead.  You need 12 batteries to be always ready.

[monikersupreme]

It came with a full flight of Energizer AAs installed - is it worth swapping these out then?

Any specific brand recommendations - or any I should avoid?

Definitely. Dave seems to think the reason for all modern alkalines to leak is that they no longer use mercury, and the different chemistry causes the problem. All I know is, I've seen Energizer and Duracell alike leak, and also many other brands.

I use Turnigy brand cells from Hobby King, as they are a lot cheaper than Eneloops, and as good, as near as I can tell. I am led to believe that the Ikea Ladda cells are made in the same factory as Eneloops, but some claim they are the reject ones.
I use a Maha Powerex charger for the Ni-MH but I don't have a specific one for the Ni-Zn so I have to use a bench power supply for that...

I believe one of the members here called HKJ has a website with reviews of many chargers and maybe batteries too?

Was this the site AVGreponding was referring to: http://lygte-info.dk/ for reviews of chargers and batteries?