Author Topic: Anyone know how to get into calibration mode on Prodigit P3 Kill-A-Watt P4400?  (Read 4327 times)

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Offline turbo!

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  • Posts: 89
I have a revision of Kill_A-Watt that reads to 0.1w.
The buttons are no longer hooked up through resistive dividers like the older versios. 
There are five individual leads going into the chip on board blob. 

P/N:6522022P01 r:A
Made in CHINA  :palm:
Holding down V and Hz won't let me get into calibration mode. 
There is a 3 pin spot for a header board with GND and two pins that each go into chip oboard blob, Shorting one to ground resets the meter. Shorting the other to ground makes itjump between modes.  But I still can't get into calibration. 


Anyone?
 

Offline Texas-Mark

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With the newer units holding down V and Hz no longer works. However, holding the V down while powering up the unit does. The bad news is there does to seem to be any logic to how the other buttons work anymore. The previous up/down and enter no longer seem to work that way. My unit was reading the wrong voltage (138 vice 115) and I somehow got that right. But now the watts and amps read 1 amp and 4 watts with nothing even connected and I have not figured out how to fix that. .
 

Offline turbo!

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  • *
  • Posts: 89
With the newer units holding down V and Hz no longer works. However, holding the V down while powering up the unit does. The bad news is there does to seem to be any logic to how the other buttons work anymore. The previous up/down and enter no longer seem to work that way. My unit was reading the wrong voltage (138 vice 115) and I somehow got that right. But now the watts and amps read 1 amp and 4 watts with nothing even connected and I have not figured out how to fix that. .

Thanks. I held down the voltage button upon power up and I got it to 'open'. I didn't want to mess it up so I powered it back down. Since yours is already not working correct, can you let me know or explore what it does when you push buttons after you're in "open"  ?

Have you messed around with the J1 test points?
 

Offline Texas-Mark

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 2
  • Country: us
With the newer units holding down V and Hz no longer works. However, holding the V down while powering up the unit does. The bad news is there does to seem to be any logic to how the other buttons work anymore. The previous up/down and enter no longer seem to work that way. My unit was reading the wrong voltage (138 vice 115) and I somehow got that right. But now the watts and amps read 1 amp and 4 watts with nothing even connected and I have not figured out how to fix that. .

Thanks. I held down the voltage button upon power up and I got it to 'open'. I didn't want to mess it up so I powered it back down. Since yours is already not working correct, can you let me know or explore what it does when you push buttons after you're in "open"  ?

Have you messed around with the J1 test points?

I have not messed with the JI points.

After getting "oPEn", pressing volt again just seems to exit out of things.

Pressing Amp cycles though SAVE, the blinking LCD test, then displays 0.0Watt (more on that later), then 1-20, then 1-10, then 1-01, then U220 (more on that later), then U110, then back to oPEn

Pressing Watt at oPEn cycles through the same items above only in reverse.

So at this point Amp seems to be scroll up and Watts scroll down.

Now starting at oPEn, pressing Hz also cycles through each item like Amp does, but with a slight pause. So in some ways it does act like an enter key. However, when you get to the 0.0Watt display, pressing it further cycles though 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 all the way to 0.9 and then back to 0.0. No idea what those do as they do not appear to change any readings.

Now, I have now quite figured out just how to actually "save" individual settings. I know that pressing hz after SAVE is displayed saves things, but I have not figured out the sequence to save exactly what you want.

I have managed to set it to 220V (U220) and back to 110v (U110) with some trial and error, by using the Hz button until whichever one I wanted was displayed and then using Amp or Watt to get to SAVE and pressing hz again.

How I managed to reset the voltage to be correct, I do not know. Nor do I know how I managed to get it to be cycling between two values with nothing attached, along with displaying wrong values.

I did try putting a 10 amp load on it as some other calibration directions say to do, but it did not seem to do anything.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2015, 11:24:12 pm by Texas-Mark »
 


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