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Siglent SPD3303X(-E) calibration FW1.01.01.02.07R2 - best practice

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Mortymore:
If the PSU is new, and you don't have a good multimeter and an eletronic Load, my suggestion is that you shouldn't be concern with the calibration for now, unless your PSU seems to be far off.
Let the PSU age a few months.

With only a multimeter (5.5 digits would be good) you can calibrate the voltage, and let alone the current calibration.

You will need an electronic load to draw the current to be set from the PSU, and then you can calibrate it.
I only calibrate my hacked PSU, 2 or 3 months after buying and using an SDL1020X-E load.

The calibration process is no easy task, and you have to be patient. Let all the devices on for 1h or so, before start the calibration process, take your time, and let each adjusted value set for a few seconds, at least.
 

BreakingOhmsLaw:

--- Quote from: sy on February 09, 2024, 10:43:45 am ---
--- Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on November 18, 2021, 12:21:29 am ---Connect to an electronic load and set it to 100mA constant current. Check actual current with multimeter and enter into the command below:
CALibration:CURRent ch1,1,<measured current value> or ch2 for CH2

--- End quote ---
Hello, I have just hacked my X-E and wish to calibrate my unit. I new to this, I was wondering why we need an electronic load and if we can just use the multimeter to measure current output? If not, what kind of electronic load did you use?

--- End quote ---

You could just hook up beefy load resistors and measure the resulting current with a multimeter, that will work just fine. An electronic load just makes this much more easy. I use a Siglent SDL1020X-E electronic load and run the current though a calibrated R&S HMC8012 benchtop multimeter for added accuracy.

martin1959:
Yesterday I had problems trying to calibrate the Current Display values of my SPD3303X-E (updated to SPD3303X, FW 1.01.01.03.10, HW V6.1). Fortunately I was able to resolve it, so I describe the problem and the solution here.

I first tried to enter the calibration commands using the "telnet" command line tool on my Linux computer. Until now never had a problem using this for SCPI commands or queries.

telnet spd3303x-e 5025
Trying 192.168.178.65... (your IP address may vary!!!)
Connected to spd3303x-e.
Escape character is '^]'.
SYST:ERR?
+0, No error
*CALCLS 3
*CALST
CAL:CURR CH1,1,0.100 (your value may vary!!!)
SYST:ERR?
-108,Parameter not allowed,
CAL:CURR CH1,2,2.500 (your value may vary!!!)
SYST:ERR?
-108,Parameter not allowed,
*CALST
^]
telnet> quit
Connection closed.

Now the Current Display was way off, e.g. showed ca. 111 mA with nothing connected at the output.  >:( I tried again several times, but without luck.
It seems that the power supply accepts the commands to erase the calibration but does not accept the commands to enter the new calibration data - at least when using the "telnet" tool under Linux. So I was left with a power supply with huge error in output Current Display.  |O

After an hour of despair, I decided to repeat the same procedure, but now using the "Putty" software on MS Windows OS (configured for proper hostname or IP address and port 5025). Fortunately it worked fine this time. :-+

I understand that "Putty" does not require the NI/VISA software. So in case "Putty" does not work it is most likely not related to NI/VISA.
But you do need the NI/VISA software for using Siglent's EasyPower software, e.g. for installing software updates.

I have no explanation why the power supply is so picky or about fine differences between "telnet" and "Putty". But I am glad that it finally worked, thanks to this forum.

I tried only to calibrate the Current Display. I found the existing Voltage and Current Limit calibration good enough.
Note that I allowed the equipment (Power Supply, DMM, Electronic Load) to warm up ca. 1 hour before performing the calibration. After calibration, the cold power supply initially shows 3 or 4 mA output current with nothing connected. This quickly reduces to 2 mA, and after 1 hour warm-up to 0 mA.


sy:
I was searching for DC electronic loads and came across this device I found on aliexpress. I have had a look at the SDL1020X-E mentioned earlier, but I'm on a budget and don't think I'll ever be using this instrument again besides wanting to calibrate my power supply for current.

I am not sure if these things are suitable to calibrate the SPD3303x(-e) as some guy on the youtubes said it was moreso geared towards testing batteries? I was wondering if anyone else had experience using one of these and if they are reliable enough? I've had a look online but can't find much instruction on how to use it

orzel:

--- Quote from: sy on March 11, 2024, 11:59:26 pm ---I am not sure if these things are suitable to calibrate the SPD3303x(-e) as some guy on the youtubes said it was moreso geared towards testing batteries? I was wondering if anyone else had experience using one of these and if they are reliable enough? I've had a look online but can't find much instruction on how to use it

--- End quote ---

There's a thread about it. Basically, they ARE battery testers, can be used as electronic loads (I do and i'm happy, but my needs are very limited). The voltage sensor is surprisingly accurate for such a cheap gear. The only drawback is that the FET (the big chip dissipating heat under the heatsink) is often weak, either a bad component (fake) or badly driven or wrongly mounted or whatever. Lot of people burnt them. ymmv. I've used mine (rated for 180W) up to 150W for several minutes, and never had any problem. The fan started (which is rare in my tests) and temperature rose, but not so much.

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