But i couldn't find much info on the SPD3303X-EWelcome to the forum.
Cool thing on SPD3303X is that is "hackable"
SPD3303X-E is a little cheaper(389.00), vs ~470 for the DP832?I wouldn't worry too much about Dave's video, that's the only instance I've ever heard of of a failed Power FET in the DP832.
But is it good enough?
looking at this video [see first post] seems dp832 had some issues, but other posts had good comments about it.
But i couldn't find much info on the SPD3303X-E
To the OP: what is your budget? There are more expensive options out there which may be worth the extra money.
Yep I sure do !
In the thread I just linked to above, Tautech (a NZ-based Siglent dealer) takes issue with my complaint about the binding posts but the issue is still there on my SPD3303X-E.
You want to have your cake and eat it too. There have been multiple people who had concerns about the binding posts on the SPD3303X-E. In a recent post you said "Early binding posts weren't right and they got changed really early on, the issue was if old short banana plugs were used they didn't engage far enough into the binding posts and be securely fastened resulting that sometimes they could fall out. Not now an issue with later units."Yep I sure do !
In the thread I just linked to above, Tautech (a NZ-based Siglent dealer) takes issue with my complaint about the binding posts but the issue is still there on my SPD3303X-E.
You have experience of just one unit and an early one at that which Siglent NA provided the free upgraded binding posts and yet you still had to fork with them rather than get some modern banana plugs. ::)
I've sold some dozens of these PSU's without a single complaint....even about binding posts !
The first 10 pages of a Google search for others with binding post issues shows only your ongoing grizzling or some binding post hack for some Agilent PSU.
Really you did yourself no favors drilling out the binding posts so to enable insertion of substandard banana plugs when for a few $ you wouldn't have had all this grief.
Best you do sell your SPD3303X-E as I'm sure others with modern banana plugs will be very happy with it.
Both options from the OP have their issues / down sides. If you are going to spend a couple of hundred then it may make sense to spend even more to get a really good device. That way I ended up with the Keysight E36313A. One of the features I like is the low current range (up to 20mA) which make the PSU capable of showing currents at the uA level. I vaguely remember seeing a PSU from another brand which also had this feature somewhere on this forum.To the OP: what is your budget? There are more expensive options out there which may be worth the extra money.
Which ones ?
Your opinion interests me :)
E36313A? That's an $1,800 power supply!But it has none of the downsides compared to the SPD3303X-E and DP832. BTW it seems to be cheaper in Europe.
Even though I know nothing of your requirements, use case, or budget, I say that if you're willing to spend a few hundred dollars, you might as well spent eight thousand dollars and pick yourself up a Keysight N6705C. It really is the barest minimum anyone should consider as it is a supply you can grow into and has none of the problems that plague all of the lesser models discussed so far. ::)
Even though I know nothing of your requirements, use case, or budget, I say that if you're willing to spend a few hundred dollars, you might as well spent eight thousand dollars and pick yourself up a Keysight N6705C. It really is the barest minimum anyone should consider as it is a supply you can grow into and has none of the problems that plague all of the lesser models discussed so far. ::)Why not get 3 of them? /s
One of the features I like is the low current range (up to 20mA) which make the PSU capable of showing currents at the uA level. I vaguely remember seeing a PSU from another brand which also had this feature somewhere on this forum.
8k is just for the fancy box :-DD. Be prepared for several thousand more to put the actual power supply modules in it.
Why not get 3 of them? /s
@Billb: Stop making a fool of yourself. Like anything it is a matter of budget and how someone would value an item. You can compare it to buying a car. You basically have 3 options: buying a new cheap one which isn't quite right, buying a higher end used model or (if you can) spend more money to buy a new higher end car. Ofcourse there are always those who think the cheap car is equal to the more expensive car because it gets you from A to B but let's be honest: would you like to drive hundreds of kilometers in a car with poor seats and/or which is noisy like hell? I won't because it will make every trip annoying and I know better options exist so I look further.Right. ::)
Cry once to buy a good tool.
Rigol DS1054Z 4CH O-Scope
Siglent SDG2042X 2CH AWG
Instek GPP-4323 4CH DC power supplyDebatable spot
Siglent SDG6022X 2CH AWG
Instek GPP-4323 4CH DC power supplyThe OP never did provide a budget, so no real reason to hold back on recommendations. Although equating the recommendation of a very good and general $1.8k lab power supply to a ultra specialized +$10k power supply may be a bit over the top. ;D
Cmon Ted, you're not done your homework, 14 bit vs 16 bit. ::) The one Plasmateur picks as first choice can be improved to 120 MHz and his second choice improved to 500 MHz.
Plasmateur I'd replace the Siglent AWG in your list with a Rigol DG1022Z that can be turned into a DG1062Z and have the 16 MPts/Chan option added using a 'magic' USB stick and a few simple SCPI commands.
I just didn't want the OP (who has implied a price range in his post discussing two models) to feel like he's less than because he's not considering a price range four times over that in his post.I'm getting the feeling you feel less and need to justify your purchases. I don't think you are doing anyone a favour by insisting the cheap option is the best one for everybody. IMHO it is better to provide a wider range of options (even if they are more expensive or cheaper) to the OP to broaden the horizon and let the OP decide on what is the best fit for him/her.
Everything has its place, and the Siglent SPD3303X-E is a perfectly fine supply for the money. In fact, some might be surprised that I use several in a professional engineering environment without issue. Not every use case requires a $10K solution, nor even a $1.8K one.
I'm getting the feeling you feel less and need to justify your purchases. I don't think you are doing anyone a favour by insisting the cheap option is the best one for everybody. IMHO it is better to provide a wider range of options (even if they are more expensive or cheaper) to the OP to broaden the horizon and let the OP decide on what is the best fit for him/her.
Plasmateur I'd replace the Siglent AWG in your list with a Rigol DG1022Z that can be turned into a DG1062Z and have the 16 MPts/Chan option added using a 'magic' USB stick and a few simple SCPI commands.
But the DC power supply I'm suggesting, which is neither Rigol or Siglent, is a little more in price, and crazy in value just like the DS1054Z and the SDG2042X.That GW Instek GPP-4323 looks interesting too as it can also serve as a 2x 50W DC load. OTOH the current readback accuracy isn't spectacular.
In my opinion this is the current hobbiest lab equipment Trifecta
....
And if you were to upgrade it would probably be something like this....Code: [Select]Debatable spot
Siglent SDG6022X 2CH AWG
Instek GPP-4323 4CH DC power supply
Same DC power supply.
But the DC power supply I'm suggesting, which is neither Rigol or Siglent, is a little more in price, and crazy in value just like the DS1054Z and the SDG2042X.That GW Instek GPP-4323 looks interesting too as it can also serve as a 2x 50W DC load. OTOH the current readback accuracy isn't spectacular.
And we can all yell at each other and get really angry about our opinions.:-DD
Hey, can you elaborate on the current readback a little bit? You and TurboTom are making me want to re-evaluate my response.I'm guessing he is referring to it not having different current measuring ranges like: 10A/1A/100mV/10mV/etc. Basically, you can read small currents directly on your power supply without having to use a DMM. I think the Instek is about the same as the Siglent and Rigol in that regard. It honestly isn't really something you get at that price point for new gear. For me, it is a feature I prefer to have in a power supply like nctnico.
The Rigol A series (http://beyondmeasure.rigoltech.com/acton/attachment/1579/f-01c1/1/-/-/-/-/DP800%20Datasheet.pdf) appear to have the same readback current resolution, but the programming resolution is 1ma whereas the GPP-4323's (https://www.gwinstek.com/en-GB/products/downloadSeriesSpec/1938) programming current resolution is 0.1ma.
Or a poll sticked every one in awhile where people can vote on what the best value O_scope/Sig_Gen/DC_Supply - which would complete what the undisputedSuch a poll is utterly useless because everyone's needs and budget are different. Forcing a 'best solution' on people is the worst thing to do. Just leave the options open and be clear about the pros and cons.
Look at the specs of the GW Instek. Current readback accuracy is (IIRC) 0.3% +10mA. I'd like to see that at 0.05% or so because in that case you have (about) the same accuracy as a 4.5 digit DMM. Part of the added value of having digital readouts on a PSU is not needing extra DMMs to measure voltage and current.Hey, can you elaborate on the current readback a little bit? You and TurboTom are making me want to re-evaluate my response.But the DC power supply I'm suggesting, which is neither Rigol or Siglent, is a little more in price, and crazy in value just like the DS1054Z and the SDG2042X.That GW Instek GPP-4323 looks interesting too as it can also serve as a 2x 50W DC load. OTOH the current readback accuracy isn't spectacular.
Also, Turbo Tom brings up a great point about programmability. I fully automate whatever I'm doing, so a front panel interface isn't a big deal for me so long as I can initially get the hang of the instrument...it's all sending SCPI commands via python going forward from there.The keypad on the Rigol is a nice feature though, and being able to punch in a value and go is very handy. But, that does takes up panel real estate, too.
I'd say a keypad is a must have on a more advanced PSU. Turning knobs is slow and tedious.Also, Turbo Tom brings up a great point about programmability. I fully automate whatever I'm doing, so a front panel interface isn't a big deal for me so long as I can initially get the hang of the instrument...it's all sending SCPI commands via python going forward from there.The keypad on the Rigol is a nice feature though, and being able to punch in a value and go is very handy. But, that does takes up panel real estate, too.
We can apply the same line of thought to multiplexed vertical controls on scopes yet they have general acceptance in todays world.I'd say a keypad is a must have on a more advanced PSU. Turning knobs is slow and tedious.Also, Turbo Tom brings up a great point about programmability. I fully automate whatever I'm doing, so a front panel interface isn't a big deal for me so long as I can initially get the hang of the instrument...it's all sending SCPI commands via python going forward from there.The keypad on the Rigol is a nice feature though, and being able to punch in a value and go is very handy. But, that does takes up panel real estate, too.
Sorry but that is a apple versus oranges comparison. On every PSU I own which has a keypad I use the keypad because it is quicker and more precise.I'd bet some don't have detented encoders.
Doesn't matter at all. For kicks I just tried using the knob on my E36313A to set it to 10V. I stopped at 4V because I already rotated the knob more than I'd need to get a 10 turn pot to the end. Pressing 3 buttons to get to 10V is quicker and easier. There is no amount of argueing which changes that.Sorry but that is a apple versus oranges comparison. On every PSU I own which has a keypad I use the keypad because it is quicker and more precise.I'd bet some don't have detented encoders.
Oh, so you can't select which digit you want to adjust ? :oDoesn't matter at all. For kicks I just tried using the knob on my E36313A to set it to 10V. I stopped at 4V because I already rotated the knob more than I'd need to get a 10 turn pot to the end.Sorry but that is a apple versus oranges comparison. On every PSU I own which has a keypad I use the keypad because it is quicker and more precise.I'd bet some don't have detented encoders.
That is even a worse solution. Now you need to push even more buttons :palm: And it is potentially dangerous too. I have a DC-load which works that way and using the digit selection mode it is very easy to set it to a much higher current than required.Oh, so you can't select which digit you want to adjust ? :oDoesn't matter at all. For kicks I just tried using the knob on my E36313A to set it to 10V. I stopped at 4V because I already rotated the knob more than I'd need to get a 10 turn pot to the end.Sorry but that is a apple versus oranges comparison. On every PSU I own which has a keypad I use the keypad because it is quicker and more precise.I'd bet some don't have detented encoders.
Look at the specs of the GW Instek. Current readback accuracy is (IIRC) 0.3% +10mA. I'd like to see that at 0.05% or so because in that case you have (about) the same accuracy as a 4.5 digit DMM. Part of the added value of having digital readouts on a PSU is not needing extra DMMs to measure voltage and current.
Nope, not when the digit selected is highlighted or you're making major adjustments with the output ON. |OThat is even a worse solution. Now you need to push even more buttons :palm: And it is potentially dangerous too.Oh, so you can't select which digit you want to adjust ? :oDoesn't matter at all. For kicks I just tried using the knob on my E36313A to set it to 10V. I stopped at 4V because I already rotated the knob more than I'd need to get a 10 turn pot to the end.Sorry but that is a apple versus oranges comparison. On every PSU I own which has a keypad I use the keypad because it is quicker and more precise.I'd bet some don't have detented encoders.
Oh, so you can't select which digit you want to adjust ? :o
Yep, that's something you need a numeric keypad fix for.
Alternate.Oh, so you can't select which digit you want to adjust ? :o
Yep, that's something you need a numeric keypad fix for.
Honestly I would say this is the reverse way of thinking about it.
Because I have multiple power supplies, most with both keypads and knobs. Including ones that allow you select/change a single digit with a knob (4 of my power supplies do this). You really think this functionality is hard to imagine even if you didn't own such a supply?Alternate.Oh, so you can't select which digit you want to adjust ? :o
Yep, that's something you need a numeric keypad fix for.
Honestly I would say this is the reverse way of thinking about it.
Unless you've used one for a bit and become accustomed to the UI how could you know ?
Well luckily for the Rigol owners you can choose and use either method, haha. For hobbyists they usually go the siglent because it's cheaper and smaller though. The more limited 3rd channel, non-standard output spacing, lack of keypad etc... Just doesn't matter. You could have significantly reduced performance and it still wouldn't matter. Cost and size are some pretty basic requirements.
Well luckily for the Rigol owners you can choose and use either method, haha. For hobbyists they usually go the siglent because it's cheaper and smaller though. The more limited 3rd channel, non-standard output spacing, lack of keypad etc... Just doesn't matter. You could have significantly reduced performance and it still wouldn't matter. Cost and size are some pretty basic requirements.
I agree that the Siglent price point it is hard to beat for a new linear power supply. I keep mentioning buying used, but that always comes with risks. Risks that someone just getting started is not likely to want to deal with. Getting good deals on used equipment can also be highly dependent on your location in the world.
At the Rigols price though...I would start considering other options.
Or a poll sticked every one in awhile where people can vote on what the best value O_scope/Sig_Gen/DC_Supply - which would complete what the undisputedSuch a poll is utterly useless because everyone's needs and budget are different. Forcing a 'best solution' on people is the worst thing to do. Just leave the options open and be clear about the pros and cons.
Hmm, like what?
I have one power supply with rear outputs and to get myself to use it I ended up attaching very long 8ga wires and 20ga sense lines so that I could run wires to the front and still have length for connections(40A output).
... ended up buying the Rigol, and here's why:The SPD3303X-E is also hackable to 1mV resolution as well.
* The Rigol is a bit more expensive but is "hackable" to get 1mV/1mA resolution. You can also turn it into a DP832A quite easily.
* Independent control of the third channelThe limited 3rd channel and non-standard spacing are probably the two biggest problems with the Siglent. Oh, and the lack of a sense input is a bummer, too.
* Standard spacing between the banana connectors
* The Rigol has a keypad!!
* The Rigol has dedicated V, mV, A and mA keys!!
And BTW, I'm no Rigol fanboy. I just got myself an SDG2042X signal generator (with a keypad), and it's just a fantastic piece of gear But I wouldn't have bought it if it didn't have a keypad :box:.Ironically, even with the SDG2042X having a touch screen, I do use its keypad and softkeys almost exclusively!
But for a DC supply on sale today for $330, the SPD3303X-E has a lot of features that for me make up for the lack of a keypad.That is one way of looking at it. OTOH you can also say you are spending $330 (which is a fair amount of money) and you are still compromising.
...If I had to make a selection again today then I'd take a long hard look at the GW Instek GPP-4323. It isn't very cheap but doesn't seem to have any compromises.
Hmm, like what?
When you are approaching the $500 range there are options like this now:
https://www.tequipment.net/Instek/GPP-4323/DC-Power-Supplies/Lab-Power-Supplies/ (https://www.tequipment.net/Instek/GPP-3323/DC-Power-Supplies/Lab-Power-Supplies/)
Which is a 2-quadrant supply. When I first purchased a DP832 back in the day the Siglent 3303X and that particular Instek didn't exist. I'm just saying that once you get closer to that price point there are other options to consider today.I have one power supply with rear outputs and to get myself to use it I ended up attaching very long 8ga wires and 20ga sense lines so that I could run wires to the front and still have length for connections(40A output).
Having to deal with rear outputs is always a hassle. If the output is in the front, then the sense lines are almost always in the back (if it has external sensing). I like to make hammond enclosure boxes with banana jacks for the force/sense lines that bring all the outputs from the rear that then sit on my desk. While the supply sits up on the shelf.
[attach=1]
Hmm, like what?
When you are approaching the $500 range there are options like this now:
https://www.tequipment.net/Instek/GPP-4323/DC-Power-Supplies/Lab-Power-Supplies/ (https://www.tequipment.net/Instek/GPP-3323/DC-Power-Supplies/Lab-Power-Supplies/)
Which is a 2-quadrant supply. When I first purchased a DP832 back in the day the Siglent 3303X and that particular Instek didn't exist. I'm just saying that once you get closer to that price point there are other options to consider today.I have one power supply with rear outputs and to get myself to use it I ended up attaching very long 8ga wires and 20ga sense lines so that I could run wires to the front and still have length for connections(40A output).
Having to deal with rear outputs is always a hassle. If the output is in the front, then the sense lines are almost always in the back (if it has external sensing). I like to make hammond enclosure boxes with banana jacks for the force/sense lines that bring all the outputs from the rear that then sit on my desk. While the supply sits up on the shelf.
(Attachment Link)
I couldn't use the 3323 due to the limited 3rd output(if it had 1V it'd work), would have to go to the 4323. Looks alright even though the Rigol length is much better for stacking meters on it. I probably would've considered it if it were around. Especially if the lock actually locked channel on/off. It's the one thing I don't like about the Rigol. Luckily my other supply like the 40A has both output and sense at the front and it is what I use most of the time, but if I need more than 3 amps it's what I use.
No; you are being ridiculous again. The N6705C is much more expensive and lands you in SMU territory which is overkill for a bench PSU. The GW Instek GPP-4323 OTOH costs about 50% extra compared to the hacked Rigol and Siglent offerings. If you pay for the unhacked Rigol and Siglent counterparts the price is pretty much on par....If I had to make a selection again today then I'd take a long hard look at the GW Instek GPP-4323. It isn't very cheap but doesn't seem to have any compromises.
Maybe next time you should consider the Keysight N6705C? ;D
Great thread guys, I am currently debating between the rigol DP832 and the Instek GPP-4323, leaning towards the Instek. I was worried about the legitimacy of https://www.tequipment.net/, (https://www.tequipment.net/,) but i've seen a few people mention it here on eevblog, I literally just joined. Is it a known legit site? Also I read someone mention a possible discount code? Would that be for eevblog members or something someone would have to be nice and help a new guy out by PMing it to me? Been learning a TON here, great forum, thanks!I've bought loads of stuff from TEquipment.net and can recommend them. There's a thread here that lists the discount code.
Great thread guys, I am currently debating between the rigol DP832 and the Instek GPP-4323, leaning towards the Instek. I was worried about the legitimacy of https://www.tequipment.net/, (https://www.tequipment.net/,) but i've seen a few people mention it here on eevblog, I literally just joined. Is it a known legit site? Also I read someone mention a possible discount code? Would that be for eevblog members or something someone would have to be nice and help a new guy out by PMing it to me? Been learning a TON here, great forum, thanks!I have the 3303X (I upgraded it) and I love it for what I'm doing so far. But when I go to get another 1, for more channels, I'll check out that 4ch Instek.
Also I read someone mention a possible discount code? Would that be for eevblog members or something someone would have to be nice and help a new guy out by PMing it to me?I did the search for you, the latest code is here (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/eevblog-members-discount-at-tequipment/msg2085649/#msg2085649).