TC1 lcr-meter transistor-tester fix

[Glide]

My one is showing just zener diode now, I found out that D2 is dead. Can you please tell me the value for D2.

[madires]

If D2 is related to the boost converter for the Zener test voltage then it should be an SS18. Any jellybean Schottky diode rated for >=80V is fine.

[Glide]

Thank you, I  have around a BAS86 but is rated just for 50V. You think I can use it?

[madires]

It depends mainly on the output voltage of the boost converter and the type of converter. There are several models of the TC-1 (and family) with Zener test voltages ranging from about 25V up to 45V. For a model with a lower output voltage a 50V Schottky could be ok.

[Glide]

I think is busted, now is showing 330pF 1-3 without nothing connected.

[Nokeshas]

Hello colleagues,

I have this TC1 board variant with atmega328pu and since accidentally put charged capacitor to 1-3 i fried atmegas inputs and everytime it show that any device is a small voltage battery.
I have one atmega328pu chip laying around...
maybe someone have original firmware from that atmega chip.
And can somenone explain how to program that atmega328 with that firmware/program if i have only ftdi usb programer.

Sorry for stupid questions, but in this kind of jobs i am noob.

Thanks in advance.

[madires]

I think is busted, now is showing 330pF 1-3 without nothing connected.

Does removing the SRV05-4 help? Otherwise the ATmega could be toasted.

[madires]

I have this TC1 board variant with atmega328pu and since accidentally put charged capacitor to 1-3 i fried atmegas inputs and everytime it show that any device is a small voltage battery.

Same advise, remove SRV05-4 (U2) and check again. If this doesn't help replace the ATmega and go for one of the two OSHW firmwares. Your specific model doesn't need the STC15L104W mod.

[Nokeshas]

Hi,
thanks for answer.

I have tried to remove U2, but the same result... detecting only low voltage battery.(that is not connected at all)
Regarding your suggestion to swap those atmega328.
Where to get those firmwares that you mentioned (tried to search in this thread, but with no luck).
And another question.
I have this thing FTDI: (picture attached) can i do reprogram atmega328 with that thing and some tutorial would also be awesome  I am not familiar with programming these...

[madires]

Firmwares and documentation:
- https://github.com/kubi48/TransistorTester-source
- https://github.com/madires/Transistortester-Warehouse

Regarding the FTDI please search for 'avrdude FTDI'. And there are also tons of websites explaining the AVR toolchain and how to flash an ATmega.

[Glide]

I remove U2 (10A45 on the chip) and now is stuck on "Testing...". It seams that I'm getting somewhere:)). Any other suggestions?

[madires]

What happens when you check a resistor?

[Glide]

Nothing, is not getting unstuck from this state. Only if I disconnect the battery is shutting the screen off, otherwise is staying like with that message on forever.

[madires]

That points to a broken MCU. If your tester has a genuine ATmega you could replace it and flash one of the two OSHW firmwares. Possibly you need also to reflash the control MCU or replace it with a simple two-transistor circuit.

[Nokeshas]

Hello, well i have tried lots of things...
Last one - flashed with avrdude 3.3 original firmware, but i get just short light up of display and nothing else.
verified lock and fuses all ok, eprom and firmware also verified ok, but still nothing on the screen just short splash of lcd backlight and thats it... 
my tc1 has atmega328p so in config everything selected fine i think.

fuses
EXTENDED = 0xFF (valid)
HIGH = 0xD7 (valid)
LOW = 0xFF (valid)
lock
LOCKBIT = 0xC0 (valid)

[madires]

Erase the whole ATmega to reset the lock fuse. Then set h-fuse 0xd9, l-fuse 0xf7 and e-fuse 0xfc. After that program the firmware (flash & EEPROM).

[Nokeshas]

done, still the same, lcd only lights up on pressing button and thats it.

[madires]

The pin assignment for the power control could be incorrect. AFAIK, it should be PB1.

[Nokeshas]

i got LCR-TC1(T7)ATMega328DIP firmware since my board is with ATMega328DIP.
Flashed atmega, but display is show wrong and its not like original firmware that was before with graphics not only text.
Is there a way to put atmega324 firmware to armega328p?

 
Actually the best help would be to get files for avrdude to program it, i have tried to read about something like makefile, but cant understand there anything since i do not have resource for starting up linux os.... maybe someone can help me regarding this? My TC1 model is with dip ATMEGA328P.

Thanks in advance

[madires]

The display offsets are a bit off. You can't simply progam an ATmega328 with a 324 firmware as they have different port pins (need to be adapted). The AVR tool chain is also available for Windows, and there's Microchip's IDE too.

[Nokeshas]

WELL..
1. installed WinAVR-20100110-install
2. extracted contents from avr8-gnu-toolchain-3.7.0.1796-win32.any.x86_64.rar to winavr directory.

edited makefile, config.h, config_328.h (to specify correct display)

started programers notepad(winavr)
opened makefile
tools-> make all -> pile of errors.

i think i wasted enough time = time to buy new tc1 

[madires]

If you prefer to buy a new one be aware that many come with a different MCU (APT32F172K8T6 or LGT8F328) at the moment. And the firmware is poorly adapted, i.e. a few measurement results are really bad and less features. Some even lack the self-adjustment.

[Nokeshas]

i have solved "tools-> make all -> pile of errors."problem with uploading msys-1.0.dll new version to winavr installation folder.
Now i have fully working, with correct lcd offsets and other corrections TC1 dip atmega368p model with 1.47 M firmware since i have not been able to adopt it to 1.49 or 1.48.

But also done mistake and ordered TC1. 

in the picture is what arrived... i have never seen that board, there is no quartz and also it is fake atmega328p i think it is APT32F172K8T6 or LGT8F328. 

I agree ... poor device cant identify some components and when self testing it - no firmware version shown.

Maybe there is some known seller or source where i can get tc1 or tc2 with real atmega324pa? 


Thanks

[madires]

Yep, your new TC1 has an APT32F172K8T6. Here are some hints on identifying the MCU:
- MCU in DIP is usually an genuine ATmega.
- APT32F172K8T6 has different power pins:
  - 32-LQFP/QFN: 18=Vss, 19=Vdd (ATmega328 32-TQFP: 5=Gnd, 4=Vcc)
- APT32F172K8T6 uses SWD port for ISP:
  - 5 pins: Vdd, Vcc, F_SDAT, F_SCLK, F_RST
- Testers with APT32F172K8T6 often lack a quartz crystal.
- LGT8F328 has slightly different pins:
  - QFP32L: 21=PE2/SWD (ATmega328 32-TQFP: 21=Gnd)
- LGT8F328 uses SWD port for ISP:
  - 5 pins: Gnd, Vcc, SWD, SWC, Reset
- Clone variants with an genuine ATmega are usually about EUR/US$ 5 more
  expensive than the variant with a different MCU.

[jimmc]

Yet another version here.
Processor appears to be LGT8F328 and ISP 5 pins: Vcc, Gnd, Reset, SWD, SWC.
Firmware reported as 3.12K.

As supplied about 1 in 5 starts gave a jumbled screen (see pic), restarting after timeout gave normal screen.
I guessed the the processor might be starting before the screen and not initialising it correctly.
I tried adding a 100n capacitor between RSTN (pin 29) and ground (physically between R22 and the end pin of the display).
So far this seems to have cured the problem.

Jim

ps Thanks to madires for all the hard work he has done on these devices.