Products > Test Equipment

Teardown - Hitachi V1065

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grumpydoc:

--- Quote ---I wouldn't mind one because every 1065 I've seen is beat up
--- End quote ---
The three I've had (a 665 and two 1065) have been OK and not needed much more than a decent clean up. The 665 was sold as "no readout" but it just turned out that the grid bias had been set so as to make it impossible (or nearly so) to get the readout to show.

Cosmetically the only real problem was that the 665 and the recent 1065 had an almost identical chip out of the back of the front plastic bezel in the to right corner.



The couple that are on ebay at the moment do look a bit beat-up I admit, one with very yellowed knobs as well. In fact I have a 1060 which I'm now resigned to being a parts 'scope as the HT transformer is missing which has fairly yellowed knobs. The two I sold and the 1565's are perfect. That said the 1565's are newer  - probably around 2001-2002. I can't decipher the date codes on the Hitachi TTL and there are very few non-Hitachi ICs in it. A couple have "00" date codes and one could have an "02" data code.

As 'scopes go I like them - they have nice CRTs. You can get an absolutely pin sharp trace out of them.

true:

--- Quote from: grumpydoc on March 02, 2014, 06:02:48 pm ---Cosmetically the only real problem was that the 665 and the recent 1065 had an almost identical chip out of the back of the front plastic bezel in the to right corner.



--- End quote ---
MINE HAVE THAT CHIP TOO :( Only on the right side. Wonder why that is.

Every 665/1065/1565 I have seen in person has been in terrible shape though...but most also seemed heavily used, not bench queens like some Teks I own...


--- Quote from: grumpydoc ---As 'scopes go I like them - they have nice CRTs. You can get an absolutely pin sharp trace out of them.
--- End quote ---
Agreed.

grumpydoc:

--- Quote ---(though judging by "mangled BNC" maybe not)
--- End quote ---
Well, it was definitely mangled


As usual click on the pictures for a larger version.

Actually, as I had to get the Y board out here are some more photos - of the 1565 but you wouldn't really know just looking at the boards. To get the Y board out you have to remove the bezel, knobs, printed face-plate and the retaining nuts on the attenuator switches. It's then possible to pull the board backwards and down (after removing the four screws holding it to the chassis. It's easier to unhook all the inter-board connects if the CPU board has been removed first, i.e it's pretty much strip everything out time.

The BNC's are actually attached to a separate bracket


This is, entertaining to remove - not only  are there 5 screws holding it to the Y board there is copper screening which is soldered to the board as well as the connections from the BNCs themselves.

The above pic shows the bracket with the "new" BNC installed. I was just going to grab one from the parts bin but then discovered that a) the ones I had were slightly shorter (so would look out of place) and b) had the flat surfaces at right angles rather than opposite sides of the thread (so wouldn't fit). So I decided to strip down the 1060 that I have and take one from it.

Looking at the shot above I really wish I'd changed the bracket with all three BNC's because the fact that the one from the old 'scope doesn't quite match escaped me until I'd got everything back together  :palm: The reason I didn't was more-or-less because the old BNC needed a polish and a thorough wash out with IPA but, actually, it's come up better looking than the newer ones.

Looking at the Y board now it's out of the 'scope it seems quite simple compared with many 'scopes.


The action is mostly on the reverse and it's basically all SMD - the design is probably late 80's and it's interesting to compare with the Tek 22xx series which were only a couple of years earlier and almost completely through hole.



Finally a shot of the BNCs reunited with the Y input board


You can see the copper shield as well as a separate ground wire. Not sure why both are needed.

At last the 'scope is back in one piece - the frequency meter is good to about 125MHz - after that it gets a bit confused although the 'scope will actually trigger OK up to about 150MHz. I can get on with the calibration now, as well - although the 5ns timing looks OK - 40ns for 5 cycles of 125MHz is spot on.




The donor 'scope isn't looking quite so healthy though


While slightly tedious I'll put it back together tomorrow - that way I know where all the bits are when I need them again.


anjimoo:
Hi, thanks for this teardown. It's been very helpful so far. I also have this scope and this switch is giving me a lot of trouble. Unfortunately after disassembling it I've had no luck fixing the switch by cleaning it. Whatever I do it's never returning to center, instead snapping hard to the up or down positions. It's also hard/unpredictable to move up or down.

The scope is fine otherwise so I'd love to fix this switch somehow. Maybe I can replace it? It's a "Fujisoku AL2S" apparently. I can't find much of anything about it though :(. Maybe anyone recommend me a new component that will replace this switch? I'm not that experienced with electronics so I don't know exactly what to look for.

Thanks!

true:
How did you clean it? I had one that would stick completely - I put switch cleaner in the switch and worked it pretty aggressively... it works pretty well now.

But if it is well and truly broken, you may need to figure out what the pinout of the switch is. It may be necessary to make an adapter board...

Or maybe you could ask grumpydoc to give up the switch from his parts unit? :)

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