...Has anyone seen these before and can tell me how to release the leads so that I can extract the decks so that can get access to the various pulleys with some cotton buds soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol to clean up the residue of the old belts in preperation for the new belts to be fitted?
Vince, in summary. Discovered a lot of neat stuff but haven't fixed anything yet.
Have a got that right?
Just busting your balls.
...Has anyone seen these before and can tell me how to release the leads so that I can extract the decks so that can get access to the various pulleys with some cotton buds soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol to clean up the residue of the old belts in preperation for the new belts to be fitted?You press downward towards the PCB on the center part of the housing (the part with the holes for the ribbon cable) and hold it, then pull up gently while wiggling the ribbon; curved needle-nose pliers or forceps on either side of the ribbon work a treat for this.
mnem
Vince, in summary. Discovered a lot of neat stuff but haven't fixed anything yet.
Have a got that right?
Just busting your balls.
Exactly ! Because as always in this hobby, 99% of the fun is in the journey not in the destination !
EDIT : well that's not exact, I did fix two things : faulty power supply, and defective polarity indicator.
Vince, in summary. Discovered a lot of neat stuff but haven't fixed anything yet.
Have a got that right?
Just busting your balls.
Exactly ! Because as always in this hobby, 99% of the fun is in the journey not in the destination !
EDIT : well that's not exact, I did fix two things : faulty power supply, and defective polarity indicator.
The journey is never easy.
...Has anyone seen these before and can tell me how to release the leads so that I can extract the decks so that can get access to the various pulleys with some cotton buds soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol to clean up the residue of the old belts in preperation for the new belts to be fitted?You press downward towards the PCB on the center part of the housing (the part with the holes for the ribbon cable) and hold it, then pull up gently while wiggling the ribbon; curved needle-nose pliers or forceps on either side of the ribbon work a treat for this.
mnem
Excellent, I had tried doing that before but nothing seemed to be happening, but armed with your reassurance, I tried again and this time it worked
The last time I came across this kind of ribbon cable it was in a Hameg scope and you could clearly see that was you got the cable removed, but these connectors look completely different to the Hameg.
Now its time to go and watch a Spiderman film with the grown up kids, couch potato time
Honest comment from the seller: "They all turned on last week but one didn't turn on this week. Have been stored under a tarpaulin". Not the only things, from the look of it.
.
.
As someone from the northeastern US, it still seems weird to me to see things stored outside at Apex in California, but they're basically in the desert and I've purchased several things from the outside yard that have been in pretty good nick once the caked on dust had been removed
but storing electronic instrumentation under a tarp in a farm field in the UK?!?!?
WTF is the thought process there?
-Pat
it was perfectly safe to drive as fast as I did, but I had a brain fart and thought that I was already out of town when actually I was not. And since this is known to the municipal waylaying people they placed their photoelectric gizmo there and took a photo of me at out of municipality speeds.
I did not get any points on my license though so at least that's that.
Having a speed trap warner in this country will get you prosecuted.
Not just fined, but prosecuted.
There's a referencing problem in your formula, and dB being unspecified is relative!. I'm somewhat curious as to what your references are. Being somewhat entrenched in RF and opticks I tend to use dBm and regard 0dBm as a nice generally useful level, where there would, for Needed values exist a state of "This would improve things I do daily". I wanted my DM42 like 20dBm, which is a lot. I needed it about -5dBm which is strong, but not necessary at all.
10Log * ( 20/-5 ) = -4dB
N values being negative mess your formula up.
Proposed W values, related to 0dBm:
30 I need a complete set, desperately 20 Wantwantwant! 10 This is an interesting instrument... 0 Would look good on the bench -10 If it had Nixies, I'd buy it -20 I could do with a parts unit -30 I have like 5 already, in better condition
This needs standards and committee work. Your move.
If you say that someone or something needs something else, you mean that they should have it, or would get an advantage from having it
to wish for a particular thing or plan of action
My guess: 2 actual HAMs, the rest of the occupied tables operated by various different entities flogging the same exact household and makeup wares from the nearest Freight-reclamation liquidator.
And one crusty old bastard selling crusty-ass and broken hand-tools for more than they cost new; may or may not be the same person as one of the two actual HAMs.
mnem
Don't forget the crusty ham guy with the soggy cardboard box full of rusted PL-259 connectors and uselessly short pieces of old coax.
McBryce.
10Log * ( 20/-5 ) = -4dB
10Log * ( 20/-5 ) = -4dB
This is a mathematically incorrect.
It should be
WNR [dB] = W[dBm] - N[dBm]
assuming the referece for the dBm calculation is the same for W and N.
so WNR = 20 + 5 = 25 dB in your case.
8. The TE you have on hand is never the TE you need to fix the TE you want.
Back in the day, in Western Australia, traffic duties, outside the Perth Metropolitan area were not police responsibilities, but were handled by the local authorities, who employed "Traffic Inspectors"
...but storing electronic instrumentation under a tarp in a farm field in the UK?!?!?
WTF is the thought process there?
-PatMaybe that the free-running pigs keep most pests and thieves away?
@mnementh
Yes, I confess that I was contemplating unsoldering the dam leads myself. At first glance I thought there was a tool that fitted in the slots at the ends and lifted the middles out, so I tried with a couple of fine screwdrivers and broke one end There are a few other ribbon cables that are just soldered directly, but they co to other parts of the deck that I don't need to interact with. Why couldn't they just use more sensible type of connectors, they would only put a few cents onto the overall cost
Edit:
My new improved desk magnifier from AliExpress is now in the UK, only ordered it 2 weeks ago, but expected delivery date is the 9th May, certainly hope its not going to sit a warehouse till then. I'm expecting it sometime next week based on their previous deliveries.
There's a referencing problem in your formula, and dB being unspecified is relative!
(SNIP)
This needs standards and committee work. Your move.
We need to be more specific with the N and W definitions...
WNR Rev 0.2
Now that we have defined a better base for our discussion, we can dig more in the WNR definition.
(SNIP)
W and N can be negative or positive. It makes perfect sense, simply because you can have the opposite of both:
1) W> 0 want
2) W< 0 don't want
3) N > 0 need
4) N < 0 don't need.
This equation:
is a much better description of reality because if the situation is real, so WNR is a real number.
(SNIP)
There is still the problem of units W in thoughts and N in advantages so the ratio of the two is not a pure number and a no go for the log.
If then we could suppose that N are again the thoughts regarding the advantages, then the universe is saved.
The elegance of the WNR definition is remarkable in my eyes.
Trying to update the software in my AWG510, and can't find the button in the menu to start the update process...
Then I notice this in the readme......QuoteIf you have the AWG500 series of Program Version:1.x and hope
for the system software upgrade,please contact your local
Tektronix representative and request assistance.
I have version 1.6B.... Shit.
I sent off a message to Tek support, but I feel like I'll get the usual 'This product is no longer supported' stonewall from them.
As promised; some pics of the newest member in the stable, a 2465CTS:
....snip
I'm quite happy. Everything works. And, it's a great deal easier to drive than the 465, so in many ways it's a good upgrade.
@mnementh
Yes, I confess that I was contemplating unsoldering the dam leads myself. At first glance I thought there was a tool that fitted in the slots at the ends and lifted the middles out, so I tried with a couple of fine screwdrivers and broke one end There are a few other ribbon cables that are just soldered directly, but they co to other parts of the deck that I don't need to interact with. Why couldn't they just use more sensible type of connectors, they would only put a few cents onto the overall cost
Edit:
My new improved desk magnifier from AliExpress is now in the UK, only ordered it 2 weeks ago, but expected delivery date is the 9th May, certainly hope its not going to sit a warehouse till then. I'm expecting it sometime next week based on their previous deliveries.
I have many kind of magnifiers and finally I'm usually using stacked normal glasses.
But I'm lucky and far sighted so market glasses will do.
For nasty connectors I'd say that those laptop keyboard connectors are among the top.
You never know how to open one.
Maybe there is a hint but I've never learned any.
Am I remembering incorrectly that mnem has said something about that.
...And, X/Y mode: (or, as I'm going to call it next time I put scope pics in a presentation, "Danish Phase" )
I'm quite happy. Everything works. And, it's a great deal easier to drive than the 465, so in many ways it's a good upgrade.
Trying to update the software in my AWG510, and can't find the button in the menu to start the update process...
Then I notice this in the readme......QuoteIf you have the AWG500 series of Program Version:1.x and hope
for the system software upgrade,please contact your local
Tektronix representative and request assistance.
I have version 1.6B.... Shit.
I sent off a message to Tek support, but I feel like I'll get the usual 'This product is no longer supported' stonewall from them.
I read from AWG510 & AWG520 Arbitrary Waveform Generator User Manual
"This document applies to firmware version 3.0 and above"
page 3-169
"
The system software in the AWG500-Series Waveform Generator can be updated
by using the utility menu. The System software consists of both the user program
and the operating system. The upgrades can be done independent of each other.
Refer to page 3–152 for information regarding the current system software
versions.
"
"
The Select File dialog box appears.
4. Select the file for upgrade that was copied in step 1, then press the OK (side) button.
The file confirmation dialog box appears.
5. Press the OK (side) button.
The AWG500-Series Waveform Generator checks the selected file properties. The “Illegal file format” message appears if you select an invalid file.
The AWG500-Series Waveform Generator updates the system software.
6. After the updating procedure has completed, power off, then power on the instrument. The AWG500-Series Waveform Generator starts up with updated system software.
"
Is all that for newer system?
There are also 3 parts, user program, operating system and firmware.
What is that 1.x part of yours?
I understand that it's a user program.
Above is still referring to a single file.
My guess is that you can use the same procedure you do when you restore the current version.
Push UTILITY (front-panel) -> System (bottom) -> Update System Software... (side) -> Update Program... or Update OS... (side).