Products > Test Equipment

Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

<< < (24962/27437) > >>

mnementh:

--- Quote from: AVGresponding on July 01, 2022, 02:19:39 pm ---
--- Quote from: Zucca on July 01, 2022, 01:39:19 am ---

Interesting the first comment....


--- Quote ---I like to solder all my lugs on for an even better connection.  And in the example at the end where you cut through the 4 - 0 lug, you chose a location where it had not been crimped thereby showing an uncrimped gap inside.  Not a nice demonstration.  Solder has always been superior to crimp, throughout the history of cable lug use.  Not sure where you went to school but we actually tested crimped vs soldered connections for resistance and noticed failures in current draw tests.  The solder, when done correctly always produced better results than crimps when done correctly.  In most applications, either will suffice.  However, for pure results solder wins.  Silver based solder is 5% more conductive than copper (copper 100%, silver 105% using copper as the standard conductor).  Heating wire tends to distort the insulator so care must be used.  I like to use a wet rag to cover the insulation near the end or an cooling paste which is available from most HVAC wholesalers.  Silver requires a bit more heat than propane, though so most opt for the crimp.  We're talking about the purest method here...in real life and in most situations the crimp will suffice.  Its important to know the composition of the lug being used as well.  Some are made of aluminum while some are copper and other's copper with a tinned coating.  Best to choose one with copper, either bare or tinned, since aluminum tends to oxidize over time which creates friction within the lug.  I've seen 'em glowing red like a toaster element from bad connection.  I got about 50 years experience in this subject.
--- End quote ---

--- End quote ---

Ok, I just got around to watching the video, and there are three points I care to make.

1. That fly was the star of the show, it trolled the **** out of him!   :-DD

2. He didn't crimp the lug correctly, and it wasn't because it was a cheap tool. You do NOT crimp to the tip of the wire, you only ever crimp BEHIND it. This is so the conductor forms a wedge in front of the crimp, preventing any realistic possibility of the cable pulling out of the crimp.

3. That was a crimp only lug. The ones that are intended for crimp or solder have a relief hole at the front, like the second one he sectioned.
--- End quote ---

IMO the amount of cable he stripped would go well into the shoulder of the lug, so beyond where he made the first crimp, as you suggest it should be.

BUT... if you're going to double-crimp as he did (there are arguments for and against... not gonna get into that here) you should do the first crimp at the END of the lug, not at the shoulder. This ensures you have the wedge/plug you're trying to make correctly formed BEFORE you make the second crimp.

You should try to avoid having your second crimp overlap the first; this ensures that the wedge/plug you're talking about forms BETWEEN the two crimps, and the second crimp really is only "for good measure".

mnem
Oh, and right on aboot the fly... that made for some good cinema there. :popcorn:

mnementh:

--- Quote from: bd139 on July 01, 2022, 05:12:33 am ---
--- Quote from: Cerebus on July 01, 2022, 03:05:54 am ---Talking of ginger and white cats. About 30 minutes ago the living room curtains twitched and about five feet off the ground a furry ginger and white face poked through them. We're not on the ground floor, and we don't have a ginger and white cat. Window now shut to keep the furry burglar out.

--- End quote ---

Had that with a tabby cat here a few months back. Was just sitting at the desk and it came and brushed my leg. I crapped myself as we don’t have a cat  :-DD. I shovelled it back out of the window it came from. 

As much as I hate cats, the poor bugger was hit by a car a couple of weeks back and didn’t make it  :(
--- End quote ---

Better watch out bd... we might start thinking you actually have a soul or summat... you know, something left that hasn't been eaten by all your redheads...  >:D

mnem

Zoli:

--- Quote from: mnementh on July 01, 2022, 03:05:00 pm ---
--- Quote from: Vince on July 01, 2022, 02:01:39 pm ---Forgive the dumb question, but why not just put that tool in a vice to squeeze it smoothly instead of hammering it ?!  :-//
The smooth progressive action of the vice would be kind to the lug wouldn't it.

I mean a real big/full size garage vice of course, not the tiny vice we use in the lab, that goes without saying ! ;D
--- End quote ---

Because of how they work. To correctly crimp any crimp, you need to squeeze evenly from all sides at once. This kind of crimper was devised as a half-measure, to get a maybe-OK half-assed crimp without spending the big bucks on a proper industrial crimper. The core problem is that the action doesn't only compress, but rather is a wedge that acts to split as much as it does to compress.

Because of this, it relies on the integral strength of the lug to "get away with doing it wrong". With the race to the bottom in everything, including making things like this of the thinnest material we can get away with, you can't count on that anymore.

mnem
Just say "No, thank you" to crappy crimpers, no matter how cheap or expensive they are.

--- End quote ---
He meant to say:
"If you have the jaws, you can use the vise."  :-DD :-DD :-DD

mnementh:
*groaaaannnnn...*

mnem
"critical hit from horrible pun... too weak to lob soggy ol' boots..." *passes out with a whimper*

AVGresponding:

--- Quote from: mnementh on July 01, 2022, 03:19:01 pm ---
--- Quote from: AVGresponding on July 01, 2022, 02:19:39 pm ---
--- Quote from: Zucca on July 01, 2022, 01:39:19 am ---

Interesting the first comment....


--- Quote ---I like to solder all my lugs on for an even better connection.  And in the example at the end where you cut through the 4 - 0 lug, you chose a location where it had not been crimped thereby showing an uncrimped gap inside.  Not a nice demonstration.  Solder has always been superior to crimp, throughout the history of cable lug use.  Not sure where you went to school but we actually tested crimped vs soldered connections for resistance and noticed failures in current draw tests.  The solder, when done correctly always produced better results than crimps when done correctly.  In most applications, either will suffice.  However, for pure results solder wins.  Silver based solder is 5% more conductive than copper (copper 100%, silver 105% using copper as the standard conductor).  Heating wire tends to distort the insulator so care must be used.  I like to use a wet rag to cover the insulation near the end or an cooling paste which is available from most HVAC wholesalers.  Silver requires a bit more heat than propane, though so most opt for the crimp.  We're talking about the purest method here...in real life and in most situations the crimp will suffice.  Its important to know the composition of the lug being used as well.  Some are made of aluminum while some are copper and other's copper with a tinned coating.  Best to choose one with copper, either bare or tinned, since aluminum tends to oxidize over time which creates friction within the lug.  I've seen 'em glowing red like a toaster element from bad connection.  I got about 50 years experience in this subject.
--- End quote ---

--- End quote ---

Ok, I just got around to watching the video, and there are three points I care to make.

1. That fly was the star of the show, it trolled the **** out of him!   :-DD

2. He didn't crimp the lug correctly, and it wasn't because it was a cheap tool. You do NOT crimp to the tip of the wire, you only ever crimp BEHIND it. This is so the conductor forms a wedge in front of the crimp, preventing any realistic possibility of the cable pulling out of the crimp.

3. That was a crimp only lug. The ones that are intended for crimp or solder have a relief hole at the front, like the second one he sectioned.
--- End quote ---

IMO the amount of cable he stripped would go well into the shoulder of the lug, so beyond where he made the first crimp, as you suggest it should be.

BUT... if you're going to double-crimp as he did (there are arguments for and against... not gonna get into that here) you should do the first crimp at the END of the lug, not at the shoulder. This ensures you have the wedge/plug you're trying to make correctly formed BEFORE you make the second crimp.

You should try to avoid having your second crimp overlap the first; this ensures that the wedge/plug you're talking about forms BETWEEN the two crimps, and the second crimp really is only "for good measure".

mnem
Oh, and right on aboot the fly... that made for some good cinema there. :popcorn:

--- End quote ---

You shouldn't crush the wedge at all. Copper has a very low elastic limit, and if you do that you lose the benefit of having a wedge.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

There was an error while thanking
Thanking...
Go to full version
Powered by SMFPacks Advanced Attachments Uploader Mod