Products > Test Equipment

Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

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AVGresponding:

--- Quote from: Vince on July 02, 2022, 05:29:27 pm ---
--- Quote from: AVGresponding on July 02, 2022, 05:01:19 pm ---Well, as promised, here's a (brief) report on the Agilent DMM logger interface.



--- End quote ---

Wow....you sure were motivated to get this working, well done !!

As for me I probably would have thrown both meters in the trash out of anger and despair !  :scared:

You remind me that I need to make a serial IR cable for my old Metrix DMM 53/54/56. It's unobtainium, need to make your own.

--- End quote ---

Far too much time and money invested to give up now...



As for making an IR-serial cable for your MX's, that's quite a project, unless there's schematics and firmware available. No chance of finding one at all?

Robert763:
Fixed the display on my latest Fluke 8060A DMM this afternoon. As I suspected it was just the LCD connection. I noticed the battery connector was intermittent so changed that while I had it open.
The LCD was the older type with a separate front polarizer and tubular directionally conductive rubber interconnect rather than the later flat or square zebra strip.
A few notes for nyone doing this fix.
1/ The old window and mask are pushed up towawds the top ofthe display. If it is a separate polarizer this can now be lifted out.
2/ The LCD is moved out from under the two clips at the bottom by gently pushing up the same way the window came out. use fingernails or a plastic tool, never a metal tool.
3/ The conductive strip can now be lifited out. The strip, lcd edge where it connects and PCB pads can now be cleaned with a lint free cloth (I use cleanroom grade wipes) moistened with IPA. The cloth should only be damp not wet. Ideally wear gloves to stop fresh oil from your skin on the parts.
4/ If you need to clean the window or polarizer use anti-static foam cleaner or similar not a solvent.
5/ The assembly order is strip and LCD then the polarizer (if separate) mask and window. The strip is placed in and then the LCD is inserted pressing down gently to compress the strip and go under the two clips at the bottom. The polrizer and mask are then slid in. The window is then snapped it on top. put one edge uderthe clip at the side and gently press the other side under it's clip.
6/ When doing up the case screws if the screw starts to get tight in the first turn or two don't force it in. Unscrew fully until you feel the step of the start of the thread and try again.

Fluke and Vishay say BAM  :-DMM

So I now have 4 fully working 8060As

factory:

--- Quote from: mnementh on July 02, 2022, 05:34:01 pm ---
--- Quote from: factory on July 02, 2022, 05:11:47 pm ---
--- Quote from: m k on July 02, 2022, 04:24:57 pm ---
--- Quote from: mnementh on July 02, 2022, 04:08:13 pm ---
--- Quote from: factory on July 02, 2022, 02:05:50 pm ---
--- Quote from: mnementh on July 02, 2022, 03:05:23 am ---Uggghhh...

Okies... anybody got any tech ref on the monitors used in these HP scopes? I understand the difference between the two implementations is the 54621D and family use 32-grayscale palette, while the 54600A and family use a 2-grayscale palette.

54645A/54600A use HP 2090-0316/DataRay CDM-7SF191, the 54621D uses HP 2090-0384/DataRay CDM-7SX191. My searches in the available HP SMs and on the internet turned up bupkis.

Before I go guessing based on poking around with my scope, does anybody here have actual pinouts and or schematic for these monitors?

Tomorrow I figured I'd start looking at the  CLIP package from the 54645A and see what I can find there. Maybe lookit the video chip on each and see if I can find some datasheets.  :-//

mnem
 :=\

--- End quote ---

I'm would be surprized if they aren't interchangeable, they look to be standard bought-in monochrome monitors to me, the different greyscaling would be something done in the video processing, on the mainboard and the output just a video signal.
Certainly I saw the video signal on the diagrams for the 54645A, that was posted a few weeks back. I think the other connections are power (+15V?), an external pot for brightness, can't remember what else there is. The chip on the Hitachi CDM-7SF191 board in my 54615B is a uPC1379C, this is a sync signal processor IC intended for small B/W & color TVs and does the vertical & horizontal stuff, that is done by more discrete parts on the earlier scope displays (the only one that a diagram seems available for).David
--- End quote ---

Yeeah, I'm not sure. IIRC, these are actually a TTL digital input monitor, so not that simple. I need to do some research.  :-+

mnem
 :-/O

--- End quote ---

Neck board has an added 74S03, so maybe 16 new shades of gray.

CNC industry have had small screens for quite some time.
Possibly already have an almost ready replacement LCD.

--- End quote ---

The 7403 is on the CDM-7SF191 in the 54645A/54600A/54615B, the newer CDM-7SX191 looks to use one or two transistors instead. The larger monitor boards both look to use a similar signal processor IC, layout has changed a bit, need to find better pictures.

The boards in my CDM-7SF191 from 54615B, taken before the re-capicide.   

Pictures of CDM-7SX191 from ePay listing.         

David

--- End quote ---
Oooh... good idea, looking on fleaBay for pics rather than beating my head against nonexistent documentation.  :-+ I've done this before; no idea why I didn't just start there.  :-//

So possibly the difference is just support for the uPC1379C. VCC/GND are the same pins; I need to trace out the circuits for the BRIGHTNESS pot and see where they are in the pinout.

mnem
 :-/O

--- End quote ---

I missed a word out, they both look to use a similar IC on the larger CRT board, just we need better pictures of the newer 7SX version to confirm if it is the same IC. I can't find any teardowns showing this, hopefully someone on here can provide some pictures.  ;)

David

TERRA Operative:
I've decided it's time to build something to use some of my test equipment on.

A tube amp it is...  :P

It's been sitting here in parts for a couple years now (well a bit more than a couple...) and is going to be a 35W + 35W Push-Pull stereo amp using 4x 7591 'Beam-Power Pentode' tubes for amplification, and some 6AN8 tubes for the pre-amp stage. It's taken and modified slightly from the March 1961 'Electronics World' magazine.

So far I'm drilling holes in the chassis, so not much to see yet.

Vince:

--- Quote from: AVGresponding on July 02, 2022, 05:49:45 pm ---
--- Quote from: Vince on July 02, 2022, 05:29:27 pm ---
--- Quote from: AVGresponding on July 02, 2022, 05:01:19 pm ---Well, as promised, here's a (brief) report on the Agilent DMM logger interface.



--- End quote ---

Wow....you sure were motivated to get this working, well done !!

As for me I probably would have thrown both meters in the trash out of anger and despair !  :scared:

You remind me that I need to make a serial IR cable for my old Metrix DMM 53/54/56. It's unobtainium, need to make your own.

--- End quote ---

Far too much time and money invested to give up now...



As for making an IR-serial cable for your MX's, that's quite a project, unless there's schematics and firmware available. No chance of finding one at all?

--- End quote ---

No chance whatsoever. Not worth wasting anytime trying to find one.

It should not be difficult to make one. There is a thread for these meters here somewhere and some guy said he made his own and was easy. A friend this week also made his own cable without trouble.

I actually want to make one if just for the fun of designing and building it, the joy of making something that works (hopefully !) . Using it for something useful is only icing on the cake !  :-DD
It's not USB it's just simple RS232. The bench version of this meter uses the same PC S/W, and it's basically the same meter inside.. .just in a bigger box...
Have the manual for the bench version, remember the other day I scoped its RS232 output with the HP MSO.

So I have the details I need... it's full duplex, +/- 12V voltage levels, and speed is 2400 Baud which is super slow so should not be hard to get the IR bits working at that speed.

Just need a jelly bean IR LED and Photo transistor or Photo diode, of a diameter that fits inside the holes in the DMM. Need to figure out what wavelength the IR LED uses in the DMM, for better results, but that's about it I think...

Could just ask my friend what he did for his cable, but that would take the fun out of it all. Want to design my own, I like designing stuff... simple projects like this are ideal as it's cheap and quick to do, and the chances of success / reward are high... which keeps you motivated to then work on the next project on the list !  ;D

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