Products > Test Equipment
Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
srb1954:
--- Quote from: Vince on July 04, 2022, 01:17:08 am ---Can't identify this one, if someone saw something like that before ?! :-//
G 3950 M or something. Google finds stuff but nothing relevant... cooling fans, SMD thermistors...
Have 5 of them... in case they are expensive and I can make money with them ! :-DD
--- End quote ---
Possibly a SAW IF filter for TV sets.
Not much use for these since the demise of analog TV systems around the world.
mnementh:
--- Quote from: mnementh on July 03, 2022, 06:15:32 pm ---I'm thinking now that my original surmise is correct... provided nothing wrong with the mainboard, we should be able to get something useful on the screen with the 54621D and the CDM-7SF191 from my 54600A. Just need to see how they're modulating the brightness to get those greyscales. I guess my next step will be a breakout PCB. ;D
For now, tho, I've had to put it away; wifey has requested I look at the AC in our old Saturn.
mnem
:-/O
--- End quote ---
Saturn AC is hopefully fixed. Dye shot last time I looked at it served its purpose; I found dye all over the front of the compressor. However, I did not find it all over the inside of the drive pulley or on the belt, which is usually so when the compressor blows a front seal. I did find a very suspect o-ring at the HI side port, however. That has been replaced, another dye shot, and system drawn down & recharged. If it doesn't hold a charge, most likely front seal on the compressor, so $$$.
It now blows freaking ice cubes, same as it always did. :-DD
mnem
:phew:
Zoli:
--- Quote from: Robert763 on July 03, 2022, 06:00:11 pm ---
--- Quote from: Zoli on June 13, 2022, 10:31:37 pm ---Some time ago, I've purchased a Fluke 8060A(parts only, $42.00 - little expensive). Install new alkaline, turn on - no display. Open up, start checking - why the brand new battery has only 8.2V?
Well, the Gorilla was here, and left two shorts(Gorilla1-2.jpg; red arrow:short on the bottom, continued on the top thru a capacitor pin hole). Removing the shorts, the LCD came back to life; time to start the capacitor replacement.
Oops, more Gorilla footprints: broken LCD bracket(LCD_Support.jpg) and button support(Assembly_Support.jpg), Well, I need to dig out/install the Tools_of_Trade: Dremel, vertical tool stand, 0.5mm Carbide drill.
Glued the parts together with CA(Loctite.jpg) as placeholder, then proceed with the drilling. After drilling, add a drop of CA on the top of the hole, move the wires(0.45mm, leftover from the 10µF replacements) in-out a few times to fill the hole with CA, add a drop of accelerator on the top, then let cure for 24 h.
Replace the caps(surprisingly, no leaks) and the MAC socket, let the PCB and MAC soak in isopropanol for 24 h, short iso rinse, then dry for 24h more. Assembly, test - almost spot on. But since it has a good family to join, I've adjusted a bit...
Anyway, when I will have the time, I will make some tools to properly adjust/calibrate the whole family...
--- End quote ---
I just noticed that on one of your pictures the LCD mask is under the lower tabs / clips in the mount. This is incorrect and puts stress on the LCD. The mask should butt up to the tabs, not under them. Hopefully this was a before picture.
--- End quote ---
Unfortunately, this is the current situation. This was the only way to have all the segments working. If I move the mask out from the tabs, I'm losing some segments; assembly was done in nitrile gloves, so hand grease didn't contaminated the unit.
Remember: the LCD support was broken just under the tab, I had to fix it; most likely the Gorilla glued together quickly and with some offset. When I tried to clean the footsteps, the hidden damage already was done.
Thanks for the heads-up, I will keep my eye on the possible problems; if anything occurs, I will report back here with the solution.
Update:
I've opened up and checked the LCD assembly again. The situation is: not only the mask, but the polarizer is under the tabs, too. Reason: the left tab is loose, since the repair wasn't 100%.
Solution: 1. Leave it as is, since it's working.
2. Change the whole LCD support.
Vince:
--- Quote from: srb1954 on July 04, 2022, 01:30:41 am ---
--- Quote from: Vince on July 04, 2022, 01:17:08 am ---Can't identify this one, if someone saw something like that before ?! :-//
G 3950 M or something. Google finds stuff but nothing relevant... cooling fans, SMD thermistors...
Have 5 of them... in case they are expensive and I can make money with them ! :-DD
--- End quote ---
Possibly a SAW IF filter for TV sets.
Not much use for these since the demise of analog TV systems around the world.
--- End quote ---
Thanks !!! :-+
This is it ! I searched for " 3950 saw filter " and instantly got catalogues and datasheets showing that very same chip package and markings. They are band pass filters for TV IF as you said, thanks again !
So yeah, no use to me...
mnementh:
--- Quote from: factory on July 03, 2022, 08:06:54 pm ---I've had a look at the display connector in my intermittant 54615B, of course it worked perfectly today |O, was hoping to see something wrong on the Hsync signal, both HS/VS pulses measured fine.
Will try again another day. :-//
The full/half brightness video signals, seem to be TTL level.
The intensity pot on the scope mainboard and probe comp output (based on divided Hsync signal).
The display connections on the mainboard of the 54615B.
David
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LALALALALALALALALALA!!! I can't hear you!!! I'm playing with my T3DSO2102!!!
No, seriously... Thanks. I'll get back on this sometime soon. I'm gettin' my freq on with the AWG function right now. ;)
mnem
:-/O
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