Products > Test Equipment

Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

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Neomys Sapiens:
Ewww, that coupling switch knob is really grimy!

AVGresponding:

--- Quote from: Zoli on July 07, 2022, 05:08:04 pm ---
--- Quote from: AVGresponding on July 07, 2022, 04:37:01 pm ---
--- Quote from: Zoli on July 07, 2022, 04:34:45 pm ---
--- Quote from: vk6zgo on July 07, 2022, 09:16:56 am ---
--- Quote from: Zoli on July 07, 2022, 06:06:33 am ---
--- Quote from: Vince on July 06, 2022, 05:58:52 pm ---...
As for DMM's, I don't have fancy modern ones that can test white LEDs.
...

--- End quote ---
You don't need a new and fancy DMM to test the LED's; as example, my DMM870(1998) gives 3.2v,  and the 8060A gives 8V in diode testing mode, both enough to light up any LED's.
That's why I've asked to check your multi-meters, so next time you will know which is suitable for LED testing(is part of "Know your tools" training)  >:D :-DD :-DD :-DD

--- End quote ---

That's "new & fancy" to me!
My Fluke 77 won't turn on blue LEDs, either, as they also require 3.2v.

My "bodge tester", consisting of a 9v battery, a 360 \$\Omega\$ resistor, a switch, and a small "junk" pin connector does, though!
(I dunno how I happened to have 360 \$\Omega\$ resistors & not 330 \$\Omega\$, but that's what my junk box had!)

An old ADSL box teardown yielded some nice blue LEDs with long leads, plus two bicolour ones.(red & blue, so if I ever need  a purple light, I'm in good shape!) ;D

--- End quote ---
So the Fluke 8060A is new and fancy for your Fluke 77? :-DD :-DD :-DD
Side notes:
1. I've measured my 75 seriesII diode voltage: 2.5V; the 77series I&II should be the same
2. You don't really need 3.2V to lit up the blue/white LED's; 2.8V is usually enough

--- End quote ---

Yes, but what is the maximum reading you can get?

--- End quote ---
The maximum reading is what the manufacturer is programmed in the unit; for details, Read The Fine Manual(I'm pretty sure that you have it)  >:D :-DD :-DD :-DD

--- End quote ---

Because manuals are always 100% correct, right?

The manual for the Fluke 87 V states a maximum reading of 3.000V on diode test range, but experimentation suggests the maximum reading is 3.099V, with OL happening at 3.1V (I managed to get 3.082V by making various combinations of diodes in series).

Zoli:

--- Quote from: AVGresponding on July 07, 2022, 05:30:54 pm ---
--- Quote from: Zoli on July 07, 2022, 05:08:04 pm ---
--- Quote from: AVGresponding on July 07, 2022, 04:37:01 pm ---
--- Quote from: Zoli on July 07, 2022, 04:34:45 pm ---
--- Quote from: vk6zgo on July 07, 2022, 09:16:56 am ---
--- Quote from: Zoli on July 07, 2022, 06:06:33 am ---
--- Quote from: Vince on July 06, 2022, 05:58:52 pm ---...
As for DMM's, I don't have fancy modern ones that can test white LEDs.
...

--- End quote ---
You don't need a new and fancy DMM to test the LED's; as example, my DMM870(1998) gives 3.2v,  and the 8060A gives 8V in diode testing mode, both enough to light up any LED's.
That's why I've asked to check your multi-meters, so next time you will know which is suitable for LED testing(is part of "Know your tools" training)  >:D :-DD :-DD :-DD

--- End quote ---

That's "new & fancy" to me!
My Fluke 77 won't turn on blue LEDs, either, as they also require 3.2v.

My "bodge tester", consisting of a 9v battery, a 360 \$\Omega\$ resistor, a switch, and a small "junk" pin connector does, though!
(I dunno how I happened to have 360 \$\Omega\$ resistors & not 330 \$\Omega\$, but that's what my junk box had!)

An old ADSL box teardown yielded some nice blue LEDs with long leads, plus two bicolour ones.(red & blue, so if I ever need  a purple light, I'm in good shape!) ;D

--- End quote ---
So the Fluke 8060A is new and fancy for your Fluke 77? :-DD :-DD :-DD
Side notes:
1. I've measured my 75 seriesII diode voltage: 2.5V; the 77series I&II should be the same
2. You don't really need 3.2V to lit up the blue/white LED's; 2.8V is usually enough

--- End quote ---

Yes, but what is the maximum reading you can get?

--- End quote ---
The maximum reading is what the manufacturer is programmed in the unit; for details, Read The Fine Manual(I'm pretty sure that you have it)  >:D :-DD :-DD :-DD

--- End quote ---

Because manuals are always 100% correct, right?

The manual for the Fluke 87 V states a maximum reading of 3.000V on diode test range, but experimentation suggests the maximum reading is 3.099V, with OL happening at 3.1V (I managed to get 3.082V by making various combinations of diodes in series).

--- End quote ---
Your case is simple: everything above 3.000V is out of spec, and should be discarded.
If you think that the manual is wrong, you can always ask the manufacturer.

AVGresponding:

--- Quote from: Zoli on July 07, 2022, 04:58:47 pm ---The important part is to see if the LED is lit up in the first place; voltages should be checked under working conditions, NOT on multi-meters.

--- End quote ---

Granted, but a failing LED can still light (the colour may be affected) but is likely to give a significantly different FV.

med6753:

--- Quote from: Neomys Sapiens on July 07, 2022, 05:29:37 pm ---Ewww, that coupling switch knob is really grimy!

--- End quote ---

Once those coupling switch knobs get to that state they don't come clean. The type of plastic over the years must have changed. Those little knobs on older 500 series don't turn that moldy mess. The ones on 400 series do and it's the same P/N knob. I tired a conditioner such as "Amor-All" on them and it makes no difference.     

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