I got my 16W08 ICs today (for replacing the NVRAM on my Tek scope).
Can I solder the chip to the adapter first before programming it, or does it have to be programmed before soldering? I don't have the adapter for that package, so I would prefer soldering first.
Tek 2465 PSU recap
Getting there.
Have been on Farnell's website for 2 hours now. All the alu caps are in the cart.
Now I am starting the search for the X/Y caps and... boy this PSU drives me nuts, I am still wasting time trying to understand what to buy. Nothing is simple.... unless you just buy "some" cap and cross fingers.
Unfortunately, for the better or worse, I am not that kind, I like to understand what I am doing if I can...
Aaannnnd I just bought a THS720A...
Tek 2465 PSU recap
Getting there.
Have been on Farnell's website for 2 hours now. All the alu caps are in the cart.
Now I am starting the search for the X/Y caps and... boy this PSU drives me nuts, I am still wasting time trying to understand what to buy. Nothing is simple.... unless you just buy "some" cap and cross fingers.
Unfortunately, for the better or worse, I am not that kind, I like to understand what I am doing if I can...
So I am trying to understand once and for all this X/Y cap thing.
My problem right now is that the RIFA's I am trying to replace, 5 of them, are marked 'Y' or 'X'... but it does not say if it Y1/2/3...... nor if it's X1/2/3/4/5....
So I Googled and found this interesting page. I find it concise but quite clear and with interesting technical details.
So if like me you still need to gt the basics straight on these bloody caps, you might want to have a quick look :
https://www.doeeet.com/content/eee-components/passives/x-and-y-safety-capacitor-applications-explained/
So :
- Y caps are more demanding, they are designed to be safer that X caps.
However they don't say in what way they are safe, nor if that means that a Y cap can be safely be used to replace an X cap for example. So to avoid troubles I will just avoid doing that...
- Both for X or Y caps, the number after the letter indicates the performance / spec of the cap.
- For both X and Y caps, the higher the number/digit, the shitter it is.
So in my case I guess since I don't know what spec these caps are, I can just buy X1 and Y1 and it should be safe.
ALSO : I am glad I do read the datasheet of every cap I buy... most of these caps come with ultra short leads, like 3mm, just long enough to traverse the PCB. So you need to make 100% sure the pitch of the new cap matches the old cap, otherwise big trouble.
Also, I of course will buy some extra caps, and having short leads reduces their usefulness : you don't know what you might have to do to fit these caps to accommodate whatever board / TE you might want to fit them to ! Having long leads gives you the flexibility to adapt to a different pitch, bigger or smaller, or also mount them flat on the board if so required, or make them lean a bit in order to clear surrounding components or metal work or whatnot.
So... I really wanted long leads, so paid attention to that in the data sheet. turns out KEMET sells their caps with 3 different lead length choices. 3, 4 and 25mm. The 25mm which I will buy of course, are like 40% more expensive !!! So the few milligrams of copper in the leads is worth as much as the cap itself ?!
Sorry for the disturbance, I will go back to ordering my X/Y caps now...
EDIT : I see that Farnell has about, literally, an order of magnitude more X2 caps for sale than X1, and same for Y2 caps versus Y1. So I guess that's a good indication that it's fairly safe to default to X2 and Y2 caps when recapping our TE, when the digit is not specified on the caps like is the case here.
EDIT #2 : Good lord, I see that the RIFA's nwo exist in..... SURFACE MOUNT packages ?:
They cost 5 times more than the TH versions though.
https://fr.farnell.com/kemet/smp253ma4220mtr24/cond-suppression-2200pf-y2-250v/dp/3350790
EDIT #3 : I guess I should not have made fun of Yaego caps earlier... looking at KEMET's datasheet, I see that Yaego BOUGHT Kemet ?!
Was Yageo a sleeper all along, or is it a case of FIAT buying Ferrari, or Ford buying Jaguar ?!
EDIT #4 : bummer, I need a 2.2nF Y cap and I can't find any with long leads, grrrr... not gonna buy 10 of them then... only the 2 I need for this recap and that's it.
EDIT #5 : I spoke too soon, will have to buy 10 of them anyway, it's the minimum order!
EDIT #6 : OK I leave you alone now, I will go and hide...
Aaannnnd I just bought a THS720A...
From Waterlooville, I believe
Tek 2465 PSU recap
Getting there.
Have been on Farnell's website for 2 hours now. All the alu caps are in the cart.
....snip....
Sorry for the disturbance, I will go back to ordering my X/Y caps now...
EDIT : I see that Farnell has about, literally, an order of magnitude more X2 caps for sale than X1, and same for Y2 caps versus Y1. So I guess that's a good indication that it's fairly safe to default to X2 and Y2 caps when recapping our TE, when the digit is not specified on the caps like is the case here.
EDIT #2 : Good lord, I see that the RIFA's nwo exist in..... SURFACE MOUNT packages ?:
They cost 5 times more than the TH versions though.
https://fr.farnell.com/kemet/smp253ma4220mtr24/cond-suppression-2200pf-y2-250v/dp/3350790
EDIT #3 : I guess I should not have made fun of Yaego caps earlier... looking at KEMET's datasheet, I see that Yaego BOUGHT Kemet ?!
Was Yageo a sleeper all along, or is it a case of FIAT buying Ferrari, or Ford buying Jaguar ?!
EDIT #4 : bummer, I need a 2.2nF Y cap and I can't find any with long leads, grrrr... not gonna buy 10 of them then... only the 2 I need for this recap and that's it.
EDIT #5 : I spoke too soon, will have to buy 10 of them anyway, it's the minimum order!
EDIT #6 : OK I leave you alone now, I will go and hide...
Tek 2465 PSU recap
Getting there.
Vince, follow this guide and I guarantee success with your 2465 PSU re-cap.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-2465b-oscilloscope-teardown/msg1658102/#msg1658102
Take special note: Do ONE capacitor at a time and verify value/voltage/polarity. There is a documented mistake in the manual which will lead you down a heartbreak path if you don't observe this advice.
Also, I got a TDS540 working tonight! It had the usual leaky capacitors, which were all swapped out with new after removing the old and running the boards through the dishwasher. Luckily there was very little actual leakage, except for the two caps on the Voltage Controlled Oscillator daughterboard on the Acquisition PCB which puked their guts out good and proper...
That board wasn't worth repairing, so I whipped a new one up in Diptrace and ordered some parts from Mouserkey.
Unfortunately, there is one part that is obsolete (wouldn't be a decent repair if at least one part wasn't unobtanium!) but luckily it was on the opposite end of the PCB to the leaky caps so it was perfectly reuseable.
The part in question is a MMBV105G, a 'silicon tuning diode' or 'voltage variable capacitance diode' or some such thing. If anyone has a suggestion for a drop-in substitute, let me know!
I swear, I'm gonna make a TDS-henge in the garden for a laugh and a photo with all these scopes one day. I almost have enough of the damn things!
Tek 2465 PSU recapYageo are from Taiwan, quick web search suggest Teapo & Jamicon are part of the same company, definitely FIAT/Ford of caps IMO.
If it helps, these are the caps I used to replace the RIFA paper crap in my Tek 24xx scopes;
My problem with this scope really isn't the recap but... the freaking brushless fan motor that's kaput and is not sold new anymore.
Without cooling, I can't use this scope of course. Hybrids and all that...
...
Maybe I can find modern brushless motor that might fit, even if that means I have to design and build a new control PCB for it.
My problem with this scope really isn't the recap but... the freaking brushless fan motor that's kaput and is not sold new anymore.
Without cooling, I can't use this scope of course. Hybrids and all that...
...
Maybe I can find modern brushless motor that might fit, even if that means I have to design and build a new control PCB for it.
Maybe somewhere is already an adapter board for HP model.
Can't you use any mechanics from HP one?