Hahaha sorry
https://www.banggood.com/HSKRC-TWE210-210mm-Wheelbase-4mm-Arm-3K-Carbon-Fiber-X-Type-FPV-Racing-Frame-Kit-for-RC-Drone-p-1283150.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=UK
Shipping from UK at moment as well for £15.
Excellent bit of kit actually.
Edit: blame mnementh for this one
Source material:
I'll take the blame happily.
Do yourself a flavor and avoid the CMOS camera; spend the extra money on the CCD camera. CMOS are cheap, and there's a reason; they SUCK. Motion blurring is enough to make you blarf, and all the "high resolution" they claim goes right down the shitter as soon as you start moving.
The F4 Omnibus FC he recommends is okay; it's optimized for ßetaƒlight, which is a good firmware to start with and learn the basics of PID tuning. I just dislike FCs that run main current through the FC as that brings all the ESC switching noise right onto the FC, and the fat wires from BATT & ESC tend to carry a lot of vibration, which is exactly what you DON'T want on your gyro/accel. Also it tends to be a current bottleneck. I prefer a separate PDB so only skinny wires to the FC; less vibe, less EMI.
Your builder doesn't mention it, and some of the modern ESCs don't need it, but I still recommend a 470-1000uF low ESR electrolytic right at the battery connector, or 220-330uF where the ESC solders onto the PDB. On that FC, I'd probably put at least a 330 uF on each side, across (+) for one ESC and (-) for the other, leads cut to 3mm and soldered to 20-25mm pigtails of 18ga silicone wire with the caps silicone RTVed direct to the frame. This maximizes filtering while minimizing vibration transmitted to the FC; if you just solder the cap direct to the soft-mounted FC it becomes a low-frequency tuning fork that eventually rips the pads off.
Cheers,
mnem
moo.