Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mnementh]

I just obtained “hero” status and didn't even have to try hard.

Was talking with downstairs neighbor. She begged me to look at her teenage son's computer. He bought all the parts, assembled it himself, but it ain't working. This could easily turn into a cluster fuck but I agreed to look at it. So I'm starring into this tower which looks like a hand grenade went off inside it. But after carefully examining things it appeared that everything was at least assembled, the fans were going, keyboard and mouse lit up, but nothing on the monitor. Further checking I notice that the HDMI to the monitor was plugged into the motherboard port but he had an MSI video card. Ah-ha! Plug it into the video card and bingo...we are into the BIOS. So it at least boots that far. I look at boot menu. Where is your DVD? Don't have one was the answer. How do you plan on the loading the OS? Deer in the headlights. Buy a DVD drive. Next question. Do you have a WIN10 DVD? He was going to use the recovery DVD for his HP laptop. Won't work I said. Buy a copy of WIN10.

So, that's where I left it but he was happy and mom was delighted. He did get an Intel I-5 and a MSI video card but only bought 4G of memory and a 128G SSD. And he plans on gaming. D'OH. Told him you need at least 16G memory and a 512G SSD. And I said if you have any other problems let me know. I have a feeling I will be needed again. But I'm a hero.     

Really no need to add the cost of the DVD to the unit anymore. My recent build doesn't have one. Windoze 10 is best installed from a 16GB or larger FAT32 formatted thumb drive. Follow your nose here but you create an install build with the most current updates already done https://www.microsoft.com/en-au/software-download/windows10 Cheapest option for a license is then to buy it later from the likes of https://www.scdkey.com/microsoft-windows-10-pro-oem-cd-key-global_1227-20.html Try the code 'TD20' for another 20% off.

Go earn legend hero status 

Even better is free... create the bootable USB, and try the pre-existing Windows 7 or newer product key from the kid's old PC (You can easily extract this by booting it and installing Belarc Advisor or any of a number of OEM Key extraction utilities, but OEM Keys from BIOS have a low success rate). In most cases it should activate and install a similar build (Pro or home) that will be good for the life of the machine, including future maintenance.

If no joy, THEN go to the "Bulk Key" sellers, but be forewarned... while the key they sell may be valid now, these guys do tend to "overbook"; the next time he migrates to a new HDD or upgrades processor or even video card, the key may be blacklisted and not authenticate again. 

mnem
Yup. Win10 Pro/64 right here: Activated with 10-year-old Win7 Pro/64 Product Key.

[kj7e]

Some of the digits on my HP 53132A where noticeably dimming, so it was time to R&R the VFD.

[mnementh]

Oooooh... Shiny!!! 

mnem
*toddles off to ded*

[Brumby]

Agreed.   Very nice!

[URI]

Some of the digits on my HP 53132A where noticeably dimming, so it was time to R&R the VFD.



[..]



[..]

Oh, very nice and bright again, indeed! Fine job!   
Did that already with one of my Agilent 34401As and have a NOS spare display for my HP 53132A already in my pile of repair-queue-material.   
Seems to be as easy as with the 34401A. If you have a proper desoldering solution..   

Gives me some motivation to pimp my 53132A.

[capt bullshot]

Yes, as stated. With just one verb in the sentence the verb is between subject and object:

"bd139 verlötet Molexstecker" = bd139 miss-solders Molex connectors

Ah, missolder. Couldn't find "verlöten" anywhere in my regular dictionaries, and the Google translator just gave me "solder" as an answer.

Heute habe ich etwas Neues gelernt. Vielen Dank. 

The correct translation of "verlöten" would be "to solder sth." not to "to mis-solder" - it's just a fun / pun intended interpretation. Maybe bd139 gets married to Miss Solder at some time

[med6753]

I just obtained “hero” status and didn't even have to try hard.

Was talking with downstairs neighbor. She begged me to look at her teenage son's computer. He bought all the parts, assembled it himself, but it ain't working. This could easily turn into a cluster fuck but I agreed to look at it. So I'm starring into this tower which looks like a hand grenade went off inside it. But after carefully examining things it appeared that everything was at least assembled, the fans were going, keyboard and mouse lit up, but nothing on the monitor. Further checking I notice that the HDMI to the monitor was plugged into the motherboard port but he had an MSI video card. Ah-ha! Plug it into the video card and bingo...we are into the BIOS. So it at least boots that far. I look at boot menu. Where is your DVD? Don't have one was the answer. How do you plan on the loading the OS? Deer in the headlights. Buy a DVD drive. Next question. Do you have a WIN10 DVD? He was going to use the recovery DVD for his HP laptop. Won't work I said. Buy a copy of WIN10.

So, that's where I left it but he was happy and mom was delighted. He did get an Intel I-5 and a MSI video card but only bought 4G of memory and a 128G SSD. And he plans on gaming. D'OH. Told him you need at least 16G memory and a 512G SSD. And I said if you have any other problems let me know. I have a feeling I will be needed again. But I'm a hero.     

Really no need to add the cost of the DVD to the unit anymore. My recent build doesn't have one. Windoze 10 is best installed from a 16GB or larger FAT32 formatted thumb drive. Follow your nose here but you create an install build with the most current updates already done https://www.microsoft.com/en-au/software-download/windows10 Cheapest option for a license is then to buy it later from the likes of https://www.scdkey.com/microsoft-windows-10-pro-oem-cd-key-global_1227-20.html Try the code 'TD20' for another 20% off.

Go earn legend hero status 

Even better is free... create the bootable USB, and try the pre-existing Windows 7 or newer product key from the kid's old PC (You can easily extract this by booting it and installing Belarc Advisor or any of a number of OEM Key extraction utilities, but OEM Keys from BIOS have a low success rate). In most cases it should activate and install a similar build (Pro or home) that will be good for the life of the machine, including future maintenance.

If no joy, THEN go to the "Bulk Key" sellers, but be forewarned... while the key they sell may be valid now, these guys do tend to "overbook"; the next time he migrates to a new HDD or upgrades processor or even video card, the key may be blacklisted and not authenticate again. 

mnem
Yup. Win10 Pro/64 right here: Activated with 10-year-old Win7 Pro/64 Product Key.

Installing WIN10 from a thumb drive or upgrading from an existing WIN7 product key is certainly an alternative but he'll still need a DVD drive because I noticed multiple games laying around with DVD's. I think the best alternative for this kid and to provide learning and experience is get the DVD drive and start there. Then work your way up to the fancy stuff. 

[bd139]

Some of the digits on my HP 53132A where noticeably dimming, so it was time to R&R the VFD.



[..]



[..]

Oh, very nice and bright again, indeed! Fine job!   
Did that already with one of my Agilent 34401As and have a NOS spare display for my HP 53132A already in my pile of repair-queue-material.   
Seems to be as easy as with the 34401A. If you have a proper desoldering solution..   

Gives me some motivation to pimp my 53132A.

That’s reminds me. Where’s my 34401A display? Should be here by now 

[McBryce]

What kind of fuckery is this?!?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Electrical-Test-Measurement-System/163866535293?hash=item262734e57d:g:o-MAAOSwfE5dgHmp

Dös is a eierlegende Wollmilchsau, aber a ganz damische!

When I was young and needed the money, I had one of those, too ... I think they are still made, am I right ?

There were quite a few of these types of abominations, from different companies. It was a 90's thing.

McBryce.

[tggzzz]

Some of the digits on my HP 53132A where noticeably dimming, so it was time to R&R the VFD.

Did that already with one of my Agilent 34401As and have a NOS spare display for my HP 53132A already in my pile of repair-queue-material.   
Seems to be as easy as with the 34401A. If you have a proper desoldering solution..   

Why is a proper desoldering station needed? Isn't it practical to cut the leads and then desolder them individually?

[bd139]

Depends if you want to sell the marginal display on ebay later or not 

[Ringmodulator]

What kind of fuckery is this?!?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Electrical-Test-Measurement-System/163866535293?hash=item262734e57d:g:o-MAAOSwfE5dgHmp

Lookup Voltraft MS 9150 or MS 9160, or Metex MS 9150 or MS 9160

I own one of them. They are quite big and heavy. Often sold as defective, because the seller is not aware, that the multimeter is not mains powered, but has a seperate battery in a compartment on the backside.

I did put a TCXO in the couter board as the reference.
Also adjusted the fixed power supply from 15V to 13,8 V.

Chris

[BU508A]

Yes, as stated. With just one verb in the sentence the verb is between subject and object:

"bd139 verlötet Molexstecker" = bd139 miss-solders Molex connectors

Ah, missolder. Couldn't find "verlöten" anywhere in my regular dictionaries, and the Google translator just gave me "solder" as an answer.

Heute habe ich etwas Neues gelernt. Vielen Dank. 

The correct translation of "verlöten" would be "to solder sth." not to "to mis-solder" - it's just a fun / pun intended interpretation. Maybe bd139 gets married to Miss Solder at some time

Only if she has red hair and is coming from Ireland. 

[bd139]

I'm not getting married again. I only make mistakes once 

Just bought this lot of goodies this morning as I have ZERO TO3 power transistors in stock at the moment and need to build a power supply for something. Cost me the same amount including postage as ONE On Semi 2N3055 does from the usual outfits here.



Wonder if I should buy an Atlas DCA (any excuse). Hmm 

Edit: hmm perhaps I should build an audio PA with the leftovers. I have a hefty 30-0-30 transformer here.

[tautech]

I'm not getting married again. I only make mistakes once 

Just bought this lot of goodies this morning as I have ZERO TO3 power transistors in stock at the moment and need to build a power supply for something. Cost me the same amount including postage as ONE On Semi 2N3055 does from the usual outfits here.



Wonder if I should buy an Atlas DCA (any excuse). Hmm 

Don’t forget their discount thread. 

[bd139]

Think those discounts are dead now

There's a company here called JPS calibration services that is selling them at ~ 10% off usual retail including shipping though which is good enough.

Edit: the DCA75 looks fun. It can curve trace!  https://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/dca75-dca-pro-semiconductor-analyser.html

[tautech]

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/special-offer-to-eevblog-forum-members/

[BU508A]

@med: my condolences. 

@mnem: looks like you're following the footsteps of this lady:

[BU508A]

I'm not getting married again. I only make mistakes once 

Just bought this lot of goodies this morning as I have ZERO TO3 power transistors in stock at the moment and need to build a power supply for something. Cost me the same amount including postage as ONE On Semi 2N3055 does from the usual outfits here.

My favourite TO3s for a PSU are MJ15003 and MJ15004. They are real beasts. 

I've built a PSU with them:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/show-your-favorite-and-mostly-used-benchtop-psu/msg1122343/#msg1122343

but it has a problem with oscillating when it comes to the CC mode. Will provide this evening some screenshots.
Perhaps you'll have a good idea what's wrong and where this bloody 360° phase shift is coming from.

Schematics etc. can be found here:
https://www.mikrocontroller.net/attachment/82032/Doppelnetzteil_gesamt.pdf

[bd139]

Interesting. Looks like there's frequency compensation present on the CC and CV opamps. The design is a little weird though as the entire thing is referenced to the adjustable rail after current sampling rather than a low impedance ground. I'd start by trying to slow the driver transistor down T1/T101 with a bit of miller capacitance and see it that responds.

Edit: Previous attempts to design power supplies myself have always resulted in a monumental effort on stability! Diagnostics usually involve fecking around for hours measuring sampling vs control voltage phase shifts and trying to get that loop stable at all frequencies. LTspice only gets you 80% of the way there. One I did which was a simple diff amp with a couple of 2n3904's was only stable when it was a warm day. Fixed with a bit of heatshrink over the two transistors! Makes you appreciate the effort HP put into their linear supplies over the years even if they did feck up a bit with the E36xx

Edit 2: actually a mini rant. You see loads of crappy power supplies described all over the internet and in electronics magazines. They worked for the author, precisely once under one set of load conditions. 

[Radio Tech]

Wow how this thread has grown.  Will take me forever to catch up.
You guys have been having too much fun with this.

[BU508A]

Wow how this thread has grown.  Will take me forever to catch up.
You guys have been having too much fun with this.

That's why we are here.   

[bd139]

Indeed. I think this thread is basically an entire forum itself 

[BU508A]

If the eevblog forum is a town, then the TEA thread is probably this place:



 

[Sam Spastic]

Hello I'm really NEW here.  I think this might be where I belong.  My garage has a narrow path.  My attic has a slightly wider one.  The basement has a wide path to the laundry.  I am not allowed to keep stuff on the first or second floor.

Anyway I saw the T03 picture and there are some from the 60's  70's  80's and even the 3055 is there.  Of course it might just be a generic photo.