Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mnementh]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253732641476

"UP FOR AUCTION IS A FLUKE 189 TRUE RMS MULTIMETER. THIS METER WORKS INTERMITENTLEY.  NOT SURE WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT, SO WE ARE SELLING IT FOR PARTS OR REPAIR. IT COME WITH THE LEADS AND CARRY CASE."

Yeah, no... the meter was listed as "intermittently working", NOT as "Stripped for parts" which is EXACTLY the case here. Of course it's possible for it to light up, but you and I both know that the reason the fuses are missing is because they're still on the working board someone took out of this meter. I'm not even going to crack the case and look inside; I've put batteries and fuses in it and not even a flicker on any setting, even squeezing the case tight to make sure the board makes contact.


Reason for return: Doesn't match description or photos
Comments

This meter is not "intermittently working". It has been stripped of parts to fix another meter. Parts missing (fuses and alligator clips), and screw missing from case that was present in original photos meter indicate that someone has taken it apart, probably to change the board with one from a smoked meter. There is no way this meter as it was delivered could possibly have been working at all as shown in the auction listing, not even intermittently.




mnem
Really getting sick of a-holes who sell their garbage on fleaBay instead of throwing it in the dumpster.

[med6753]

I R (no longer) confused. Yep, seller is a dick. But he covered himself by saying meter is for parts or repair. That's Ebay speak for "it's broke so fuck off". Let us know how it works out.

[Kosmic]

About the big metallic part on the left I'm not too sure but yes it look like a vacuum tube. I need to lookup the part #.

The voltage reference?

I was looking at the board trying to trace the signal starting from the output and it look like that. That might be the voltage ref 

Pull the shield off then post the numbers that are on the tube.

So it's a Airpax A-175 http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Airpax_A175

The voltage ref is probably one of the Zener diode on the board.

[mnementh]

I R (no longer) confused. Yep, seller is a dick. But he covered himself by saying meter is for parts or repair. That's Ebay speak for "it's broke so fuck off". Let us know how it works out.

Yeah, maybe so. But it is NOT as shown in the photos, so I doubt I'm going to eat it. Probably not going to have to pay for return shipping, either.

Like I said; getting sick of BS on fleaBay. Truth is, you're likelier to get what you're promised shopping on AliEx anymore. 


mnem
Welp, at least it got my mind off of Rick.

[med6753]

About the big metallic part on the left I'm not too sure but yes it look like a vacuum tube. I need to lookup the part #.

The voltage reference?

I was looking at the board trying to trace the signal starting from the output and it look like that. That might be the voltage ref 

Pull the shield off then post the numbers that are on the tube.

So it's a Airpax A-175 http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Airpax_A175

The voltage ref is probably one of the Zener diode on the board.

It's a mechanical vibrator, not a vacuum tube. Haven't seen one of them in many, many years. 

[tautech]

About the big metallic part on the left I'm not too sure but yes it look like a vacuum tube. I need to lookup the part #.

The voltage reference?

I was looking at the board trying to trace the signal starting from the output and it look like that. That might be the voltage ref 

Pull the shield off then post the numbers that are on the tube.

So it's a Airpax A-175 http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Airpax_A175

The voltage ref is probably one of the Zener diode on the board.

It's a mechanical vibrator, not a vacuum tube. Haven't seen one of them in many, many years. 

Yeah my dad used them on the primary of transformers powered from DC.
They were common in old battery powered vacuum tube equipment that didn't use HV batteries.
Still got one or two in my ooooold tube selection.

[Specmaster]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253732641476

"UP FOR AUCTION IS A FLUKE 189 TRUE RMS MULTIMETER. THIS METER WORKS INTERMITENTLEY.  NOT SURE WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT, SO WE ARE SELLING IT FOR PARTS OR REPAIR. IT COME WITH THE LEADS AND CARRY CASE."

Yeah, no... the meter was listed as "intermittently working", NOT as "Stripped for parts" which is EXACTLY the case here. Of course it's possible for it to light up, but you and I both know that the reason the fuses are missing is because they're still on the working board someone took out of this meter. I'm not even going to crack the case and look inside; I've put batteries and fuses in it and not even a flicker on any setting, even squeezing the case tight to make sure the board makes contact.


Reason for return: Doesn't match description or photos
Comments

This meter is not "intermittently working". It has been stripped of parts to fix another meter. Parts missing (fuses and alligator clips), and screw missing from case that was present in original photos meter indicate that someone has taken it apart, probably to change the board with one from a smoked meter. There is no way this meter as it was delivered could possibly have been working at all as shown in the auction listing, not even intermittently.




mnem
Really getting sick of a-holes who sell their garbage on fleaBay instead of throwing it in the dumpster.

Take another look and you'll see that the leads are not the ones used in the as advertised photo, the ones received are almost as new looking, the original photo had very old and worn set of leads.

I'd take that up directly with Ebay and also PayPal as it clearly is not as advertised.

[Brumby]

I R (no longer) confused. Yep, seller is a dick. But he covered himself by saying meter is for parts or repair. That's Ebay speak for "it's broke so fuck off". Let us know how it works out.

Yeah, maybe so. But it is NOT as shown in the photos, so I doubt I'm going to eat it. Probably not going to have to pay for return shipping, either.

I tend to agree.  EBay is all about keeping the buyers happy.  After all, they're the ones bringing the cash to the table and they're the ones who can very easily take it somewhere else.  Sellers have invested time and effort to establish their presence and so are not quite as mobile.  Also, Seller opinions don't matter a fig.

[mnementh]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253732641476

"UP FOR AUCTION IS A FLUKE 189 TRUE RMS MULTIMETER. THIS METER WORKS INTERMITENTLEY.  NOT SURE WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT, SO WE ARE SELLING IT FOR PARTS OR REPAIR. IT COME WITH THE LEADS AND CARRY CASE."

Yeah, no... the meter was listed as "intermittently working", NOT as "Stripped for parts" which is EXACTLY the case here. Of course it's possible for it to light up, but you and I both know that the reason the fuses are missing is because they're still on the working board someone took out of this meter. I'm not even going to crack the case and look inside; I've put batteries and fuses in it and not even a flicker on any setting, even squeezing the case tight to make sure the board makes contact.


Reason for return: Doesn't match description or photos
Comments

This meter is not "intermittently working". It has been stripped of parts to fix another meter. Parts missing (fuses and alligator clips), and screw missing from case that was present in original photos meter indicate that someone has taken it apart, probably to change the board with one from a smoked meter. There is no way this meter as it was delivered could possibly have been working at all as shown in the auction listing, not even intermittently.




mnem
Really getting sick of a-holes who sell their garbage on fleaBay instead of throwing it in the dumpster.

Take another look and you'll see that the leads are not the ones used in the as advertised photo, the ones received are almost as new looking, the original photo had very old and worn set of leads.

I'd take that up directly with Ebay and also PayPal as it clearly is not as advertised.

Eeeeeh... that's arguable enough that I wouldn't press it.

The leads I received are genuine Fluke, and identical to the ones I got with my 87 decades ago. Those came with alligator clips that had 2mm snap-lock sockets on them to snap right onto the probes. Most of the "crunky-looking" on those leads is the alligators themselves, and I handled them quite a bit detangling them and testing them while testing the meter.

It's the missing everything else, and the missing screw that just screams "stripped like a stolen Honda" to me.

I R (no longer) confused. Yep, seller is a dick. But he covered himself by saying meter is for parts or repair. That's Ebay speak for "it's broke so fuck off". Let us know how it works out.

Yeah, maybe so. But it is NOT as shown in the photos, so I doubt I'm going to eat it. Probably not going to have to pay for return shipping, either.

I tend to agree.  EBay is all about keeping the buyers happy.  After all, they're the ones bringing the cash to the table and they're the ones who can very easily take it somewhere else.  Sellers have invested time and effort to establish their presence and so are not quite as mobile.  Also, Seller opinions don't matter a fig.

I've been on fleaBay since '99 with 100% lifetime positive feedback. That record is as both Buyer and Seller. It's not hard to keep a good feedback with fleaBay; just be honest and don't try to sell garbage. In all that time, I only had one transaction as a seller turn pear-shaped; I sold a restored Pioneer receiver that got damaged in transit. I had him provide me with photos, to which I added my own photos of the packing, and FEDEX paid off 100%; more than enough for the guy to get a new volume pot (with my help) and have it installed locally. Whole mess took about 2 1/2 weeks; cost me a mess of hand-holding but other than that was pretty painless.

I realize that now the rules work so you have a hard time as a seller; I'll admit I have avoided selling there as a result except for a few items of sufficient value to be worth the hassle and fit in a Priority Mail carton.


mnem
*Toddles off to ded*

[bd139]

Well that’s a steaming turd of an auction. You’ll easily get the cash back for it.

This is one reason I’ve been buying new stuff recently. Starting to get fed up of either the WTF moment when it turns up thoroughly buggerified or the hill I have to climb to get it working. Time is also short at the moment with family and work concerns.

[med6753]

When it comes to buying off Ebay I do usually look for the equipment that states "for parts or not working" or "unable to test further" as long as it meets some certain criteria. First, it's cheap. Second, it doesn't look like it's been dragged through the mud. And third, I can get a service manual for it. I don't mind fixing it. That's part of the challenge and fun. And the satisfaction that you fixed it and saved it from the dumpster. That's how I've bought all my Flukes except one. And of the ones I bought with that criteria I'd say half of them worked fine and needed nothing additional and the other half needed work. But I was expecting they would need work and I had no issue with it.

The Fluke 8800A was a slightly different story. That was advertised as working and it's price was typically beyond what I like to spend. But I decided to go for it. I got it and it powered up but didn't work. I e-mailed the seller and while I praised him for how well it was packed (it was) I told him it didn't work. But I wasn't nasty about it. Within an hour I got response and he said he was sorry and refunded me $50 USD and told me to keep the Fluke. I was very surprised and I thanked him. So I got this Fluke real cheap and the best part is that within 20 minutes of opening it up I found the issue with a shorted cap in the power supply.   

[bd139]

I look for (a) cheap (b) service manual (c) no signs of meddling (d) service manual (e) dust not mould (f) signs of idiot user. I’ll post my old PM3217 when I’m at home later.

Idiot user is someone who doesn’t usually sell that sort of stuff and can’t get it to work but the controls are visibly wrong.

[Specmaster]

I look for (a) cheap (b) service manual (c) no signs of meddling (d) service manual (e) dust not mould (f) signs of idiot user. I’ll post my old PM3217 when I’m at home later.

Idiot user is someone who doesn’t usually sell that sort of stuff and can’t get it to work but the controls are visibly wrong.

Whole heartily agree although only need 1 service manual and an users manual [emoji6]. That said once the analogue scopes are no longer available or acceptable and combi or full digital become the norm, that advantage will be lost.

[bd139]

I don't think I've ever read a users manual  .

I think a digital scope with a good service manual, like the HP 54000 series (even though the service manual is a stolen internal scan of schematics from HP) is still perfectly viable from a repair perspective. Assuming someone hasn't pile driven the multi layer board into the ground at some point 

Also reverse engineering is fun. Lots of mileage there.

[med6753]

Speaking of old moldy shit. I calibrated the DCV and Ohms on the DM44. It was a little off but not much. I don't think it's ever been calibrated since the day it left the Tek factory. There's no evidence of any calibration seals or stickers.

The Time Base stuff will be checked/calibrated once I get the 465 totally fixed.

[bd139]

Good stuff  ... the DM44 is pretty damn useful. TBH the whole scope/DMM combo is pretty much good for all general purpose diagnostics work.

[Specmaster]

I don't know why that format wasn't more popular really, it's a no brainer, if scope is tilted on its handle, a normal meter cannot by placed on top. It has to reside on the bench taking up valuable space. Attaching one to the top like that  is such an obvious thing to do and in the case of a field service engineer, one less thing to worry about leaving behind.

[bd139]

I don't know why that format wasn't more popular really, it's a no brainer, if scope is tilted on its handle, a normal meter cannot by placed on top. It has to reside on the bench taking up valuable space. Attaching one to the top like that  is such an obvious thing to do and in the case of a field service engineer, one less thing to worry about leaving behind.

It was pretty popular, just expensive. The DM44 was the second best implementation IMHO.

Some more porns

2465 DV. Ugly oversized wart on top that used the readout lines for display:



The HP time-interval multimeter, a wart for the HP scopes of the era. Pissy little bubble LED display:



And by far the best implementation, the 2236, which has a built in VFD and no wart:

[med6753]

Yep, but it's a real bitch to take apart for any kind of service such as re-cap of the PSU. The vanilla 2465 that I did last week was a piece of cake compared to this one.

[djos]

I finally got my DSO today and I'm quite happy with it so far. 

[bd139]

Excellent 

Is that an Amiga 2000 motherboard I see there?

[djos]

Excellent 

Is that an Amiga 2000 motherboard I see there?

It sure is, well spotted mate. 

[bd139]

Nice bit of hardware. I bought one, well our variety the Amiga 1500, from computer exchange in Notting Hill Gate, London in 1998 for a respectable £10 back when I was doing buy/sell computer bits. Was just a basic system. Was going to try and get NetBSD/amiga working on it but a CPU card never turned up so it went on ebay.

[djos]

Nice bit of hardware. I bought one, well our variety the Amiga 1500, from computer exchange in Notting Hill Gate, London in 1998 for a respectable £10 back when I was doing buy/sell computer bits. Was just a basic system. Was going to try and get NetBSD/amiga working on it but a CPU card never turned up so it went on ebay.

Iirc the 1500 was a 2000 minus the hard drive controller and drive? I don't think they sold them outside of the UK.

[bd139]

Can't remember the details but this one had two disk drives and no hard disk in it for sure.