Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Vince]

Cub I wonder something : the little screws that hold all the tube sockets on the decks (I need to replace some of them). They don't have a nut, they screw straight into the aluminium sheet.. yet looking at the bit of thread that's exposed, they don't look like self tappers ?! They look more like machine screws to me, no ? Would Tek have gone through the trouble of tapping all these tiny holes ?!      Bottom-line : no sure what screw to order for these !!! 

I just pulled one from mine and compared it to a standard 6-32 machine screw.  The thread pitch appears to be 6-32, (I meshed them together and they seem to match, but it's not 100% given the short length of the screw from the curve tracer - not enough overlap for me to be certain) but based on the oh-so-slight taper of the Tek tube socket screw, I think it's a thread forming screw, for use in soft materials like the aluminum of the chassis.  I tried threading the 6-32 machine screw in in its place, and it started ok but then got a bit tight.  When I then reinstalled the original Tek screw, it too got a bit tight as it was snugged down, so I'm 95% confident that I could drive a 6-32 machine screw through there without any trouble, and have it grip well.

Below is a macro shot comparing the Tek screw on the left with a bog standard UNC 6-32 flat head machine screw on the right.


Thread forming machine screws are available - something like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/93878A144/
Or these in pan head: https://www.mcmaster.com/94209A080/

Though as I previously mentioned, I think you could replace them with regular machine screws at this point as the treads are already mostly there in the chassis.  Just might need a bit of extra grunt to fully seat them.

-Pat

Thank you so very much for your participation Pat ! 
So machine screws it will be, good.

Please keep your 575 nearby, who knows what else you could help me with during the restoration... which I have now decided to start working on right now, as work is going well on the house front. Hoping to finish the bedroom in the coming weeks which means I can reclaim lots of space from the living room... space that I can then use to store / organize all the guts of the 575  as I will be tearing it apart completely.

I've used https://www.accu.co.uk/en/ for UNC & UNF, you should be able to find almost everything you want there, don't know about the nuts with the star washer attached, never looked for those before. Probably only do stainless too, zinc plated steel seems impossible to get over here.

I've mostly bought CSK case screws & grub screws for HP TE from them.
Only problem I noticed last year was, some items the minimum quantity had gone up.

David

Thanks a lot David, that's very helpful indeed ! If these UK made UN* screws managed to fit your old HP stuff... it's only logical that they would most likely fit my old Tek stuff as well !
Thanks for the link, will check it out. Will make sure not to be ripped off, at least not too much !

OK so I think I have all the info I need to start my shopping now, thanks a lot to everyone, I must say I didn't expect that much feedback, TEA is a gem ! 

[mansaxel]

had a torx bit break on me while trying to remove a screw. And I was pushing in the right direction ...

I initially bought a cheap (BGS / Craftsman level) Torx socket set with ¹/₂" square grip when I needed it. All the sockets except the TX 40 are basically as-new still. The TX40 is a spiral, so it's been replaced with a Gedore one. Simply because it's the one that gets used a lot in suspension work on the Volvo S60/S80/V70 models, and I wore the cheap one out.  The Gedore of course does not get worn out like that.

Similarly, I've been forced to use Security Torx bits for normal Torx in a pinch, and the hollow bits have a tendency to turn all jelly on you in the right moment...

In my ¹/₄" hex bit set, I have something like 20 TX25 and 20 TX20 bits. I replace them frequently. I also buy Pz2 and Ph2 bits in 100-pack jars. Cheaper that way.

[Zucca]

That's the problem which is solved by for instance Torx. They won't cam out. I do agree with you in principle, the Phillips works well if treated well. But it still needs pressure. And thats a dilution of effort I'd rather not do.

Which reminds me maybe I need to buy an inpact screwdriver

Do you guys have one?

[tautech]

Is there a way to interpret Tektronix serial numbers?  I know we have a guide for HP test equipment, but I have not found such a guide for Tektronix.
RM564 Mainframe is "001205".
I have the list of plug-ins:
- Type 2B67 quantity 2 (time base)
- Type 3A72 (650 kHz dual trace)
- Type 63 (300 kHz differential amp)

Observant users of the Sphere website will get an idea of which Pt#'s fall into which categories. 
Here in their Xref page the different types are all clumped together:
https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/tekequiv.html

Tek Wiki should have something similar.

[mansaxel]

That's the problem which is solved by for instance Torx. They won't cam out. I do agree with you in principle, the Phillips works well if treated well. But it still needs pressure. And thats a dilution of effort I'd rather not do.

Which reminds me maybe I need to buy an inpact screwdriver

Do you guys have one?

Yes, I've got a Wera one. Haven't really used it a lot. Torxen holding brake discs might be a good application. Most hex head screws respond pretty well to Reason, which is my name for this arbiter of persuasion..

Context: "Biltema" is Sweden's BGS/Horror Fraught. They have a very large quality span, from crap to "same supplier as OEM" (they're pretty big on 3rd party car spares, too).

[Specmaster]

Tool of the day

Plastic Razor Blade Scraper

useful for not damaging plastic surface or carve a glass bed when removing the 3d prints

I have a box of them, good quality glass filled ones, and I have a box of single sided razor blades, plus several holders for them. Half the time the plastic blades are just the tool for the job, but half the time I start out trying to scrape something with one of the plastic ones I end up going back and getting a steel single sided razor blade out to finish the job. The problem with the plastic blades is that above a certain level of force needed to get the job done the edge just isn't strong enough and deforms below the level of pressure required for the job in hand.

Definitely something to have in one's armoury but get a box of single sided razor blades at the same time.

Yebbutt remember... just because they're plastic doesn't mean they're harmless. The good ones are still a effing sharp blade; I've learned respect for them the hard way a few times.

mnem
 

What you really need is one of those warranty-mooning teflon ones that AvE made.

Oh, thats an old one, saw a that few years ago.

[factory]

No, sorry the locals have already claimed that title. 

Yeah, it's hard to be a glorified railway junction with a closed steam engine factory. No surprises.

It's not entirely closed, but has shrunk a lot & no longer builds any locos, there are also a number of loco maintenance depots here, including Locomotive Services which has heritage locos and is next to the station. They had an open day in 2019 before all the lockdown madness.

David

[GreyWoolfe]

That's the problem which is solved by for instance Torx. They won't cam out. I do agree with you in principle, the Phillips works well if treated well. But it still needs pressure. And thats a dilution of effort I'd rather not do.

Which reminds me maybe I need to buy an inpact screwdriver

Do you guys have one?

Sure do.  Got mine at a yard sale.  Have had to use it and was happy to have it.

[Vince]

A minute of silence please !!!!

A tragedy is about to unfold right in front of your eyes, and there are no words for it... so the least we can do is a minute of silence in honour of the victim of this tragedy....

I know, you didn't know him personally, he wasn't a close friend, but still...

Please go to this link to tell him how much you loved him :

https://www.leboncoin.fr/image_son/2047381329.htm

Yeah this bad boy just popped up over here !

A rarity, a type 315D glowing Tek, pre-round cabinet .. and in like new condition !! 

But... seller wants 200 freaking Euros for it ! 3 times market price or so ! 

And the guy from what I gather is a pro seller, most likely an antique dealer who knows squat about TE (he spelt Tektronix " tecktronic " ), who wants to sell it merely as a decoration for some pseudo-nerdy hipster to put in his living room just sitting !! 

This means the poor scope will rot on some piece of furniture (and probably get stuff spilled on to it at some point... ) !

This also means the seller will probably never lower his price, never mind to a price that makes sense for a TE collector !

Only consolation I find is that given how few tubes there are in this scope, and how expensive it is... it makes no financial sense for tube hoarders to acquire it ! So at least the scope will probably be lucky and be able save its life ! 

So I can only hope someone will buy it, put it in their living room, keep it in good shape, dust it off, feed it, talk to it, keep it happy.. and then maybe in 5 years hipster will get bored and resell it, for half price... and I can get it then !

I will never see another one of these for sale here, never mind in this good a condition... so I MUST buy it... but I CANNOT due its silly price and my financial situation currently ! WHAT TO DO !!!!  ARRRRRRRRGH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Maybe a wealthy grey beard on TEA will grab it and then sell it to me in a few years for cheaper ?!

[shakalnokturn]

Other areas of France, other tradgedies....
OT of course but isn't that what this thread is all about? I thought I'd throw this in for BD139 and, well... general safety while troubleshooting.
Just been working on an old (French-made Ribet-Desjardins) turntable.

Of course being old, French, and small series hand crafted equipment made building in a fuse optional.
We all know dim bulb testing is for wimps, right?
I had it plugged in spinning some AC/DC, trying to estimate what needed doing to it, no sound but maybe the transformer was humming a little too loud. (Still it was quiet compared to the blast that followed.)
The PS filter went off with the loudest bang I've heard since playing with series charged microwave oven capacitors.
The panel containing the ampifiers jumped at me while the PS filter cap nuked the closest PCB.
Now I have a whole lot more work than expected just cleaning the fluff n foil out, then there's the PCB to rebuild...

Fit fuses, use a dim bulb tester, wear goggles, ear protection, condoms, work with the other hand in your pocket...

[mnementh]

That's the problem which is solved by for instance Torx. They won't cam out. I do agree with you in principle, the Phillips works well if treated well. But it still needs pressure. And thats a dilution of effort I'd rather not do.

Which reminds me maybe I need to buy an inpact screwdriver

Do you guys have one?

Sure do.  Got mine at a yard sale.  Have had to use it and was happy to have it.

Ditto. One of the first Craftsman tools I ever bought; 40 years ago to work on my first Yamaha. I also have the $16 one from Horror Fraught, bought on a road job 20 years ago. Both work reliably, with no fuss.

Honestly, they're a crazy simple tool. I'm not going to say it's impossible to make them wrong, but you would have to try pretty fucking hard.

mnem
 

[Vince]

Other areas of France, other tradgedies....
OT of course but isn't that what this thread is all about? I thought I'd throw this in for BD139 and, well... general safety while troubleshooting.
Just been working on an old (French-made Ribet-Desjardins) turntable.
Of course being old, French, and small series hand crafted equipment made building in a fuse optional.
We all know dim bulb testing is for wimps, right?
I had it plugged in spinning some AC/DC, trying to estimate what needed doing to it, no sound but maybe the transformer was humming a little too loud. (Still it was quiet compared to the blast that followed.)
The PS filter went off with the loudest bang I've heard since playing with series charged microwave oven capacitors.
The panel containing the ampifiers jumped at me while the PS filter cap nuked the closest PCB.
Now I have a whole lot more work than expected just cleaning the fluff n foil out, then there's the PCB to rebuild...
Fit fuses, use a dim bulb tester, wear goggles, ear protection, condoms, work with the other hand in your pocket...

Thanks for making me smile, it hurts a little less 

[mansaxel]

It's not entirely closed, but has shrunk a lot & no longer builds any locos, there are also a number of loco maintenance depots here, including Locomotive Services which has heritage locos and is next to the station. They had an open day in 2019 before all the lockdown madness.

David

Ahh, the Class 37, my favourite diesel engine. Nothing sounds like it.

[med6753]

A minute of silence please !!!!

A tragedy is about to unfold right in front of your eyes, and there are no words for it... so the least we can do is a minute of silence in honour of the victim of this tragedy....

I know, you didn't know him personally, he wasn't a close friend, but still...

Please go to this link to tell him how much you loved him :

https://www.leboncoin.fr/image_son/2047381329.htm

....snip

Yes, It's in excellent condition. Yes, the seller is asking too much for it. And yes, good chance the vacuum tubes have already been removed. 

[med6753]

Other areas of France, other tradgedies....
OT of course but isn't that what this thread is all about? I thought I'd throw this in for BD139 and, well... general safety while troubleshooting.
Just been working on an old (French-made Ribet-Desjardins) turntable.
Of course being old, French, and small series hand crafted equipment made building in a fuse optional.
We all know dim bulb testing is for wimps, right?
I had it plugged in spinning some AC/DC, trying to estimate what needed doing to it, no sound but maybe the transformer was humming a little too loud. (Still it was quiet compared to the blast that followed.)
The PS filter went off with the loudest bang I've heard since playing with series charged microwave oven capacitors.
The panel containing the ampifiers jumped at me while the PS filter cap nuked the closest PCB.
Now I have a whole lot more work than expected just cleaning the fluff n foil out, then there's the PCB to rebuild...
Fit fuses, use a dim bulb tester, wear goggles, ear protection, condoms, work with the other hand in your pocket...

Thanks for making me smile, it hurts a little less 

And people ride my arse about replacing all old electrolytics. I rest my case. 

Hopefully the damage can be fixed. Those boards took quite the hit.   

[Neper]

Yes, It's in excellent condition. Yes, the seller is asking too much for it. And yes, good chance the vacuum tubes have already been removed.

Or maybe the mains transformer is a big black mess. My guess is it will be snatched up by a Chinese collector.

As a former German football player once said in an interview: Sometimes you lose, sometimes the others win.

[shakalnokturn]

Other areas of France, other tradgedies....
OT of course but isn't that what this thread is all about? I thought I'd throw this in for BD139 and, well... general safety while troubleshooting.
Just been working on an old (French-made Ribet-Desjardins) turntable.
Of course being old, French, and small series hand crafted equipment made building in a fuse optional.
We all know dim bulb testing is for wimps, right?
I had it plugged in spinning some AC/DC, trying to estimate what needed doing to it, no sound but maybe the transformer was humming a little too loud. (Still it was quiet compared to the blast that followed.)
The PS filter went off with the loudest bang I've heard since playing with series charged microwave oven capacitors.
The panel containing the ampifiers jumped at me while the PS filter cap nuked the closest PCB.
Now I have a whole lot more work than expected just cleaning the fluff n foil out, then there's the PCB to rebuild...
Fit fuses, use a dim bulb tester, wear goggles, ear protection, condoms, work with the other hand in your pocket...

Thanks for making me smile, it hurts a little less 

And people ride my arse about replacing all old electrolytics. I rest my case. 

Hopefully the damage can be fixed. Those boards took quite the hit.   

I've just found mitigating circumstances for that poor capacitor.
Not for myself though, I should be old and experienced enough to not get caught by that trap!
For my defense it was a while since anyone pulled that one on me and well hidden under a circlipped platter....
I can expect just about anything in terms of damage now, I doubt the germanium output transistors liked that much.

[med6753]

Other areas of France, other tradgedies....
OT of course but isn't that what this thread is all about? I thought I'd throw this in for BD139 and, well... general safety while troubleshooting.
Just been working on an old (French-made Ribet-Desjardins) turntable.
Of course being old, French, and small series hand crafted equipment made building in a fuse optional.
We all know dim bulb testing is for wimps, right?
I had it plugged in spinning some AC/DC, trying to estimate what needed doing to it, no sound but maybe the transformer was humming a little too loud. (Still it was quiet compared to the blast that followed.)
The PS filter went off with the loudest bang I've heard since playing with series charged microwave oven capacitors.
The panel containing the ampifiers jumped at me while the PS filter cap nuked the closest PCB.
Now I have a whole lot more work than expected just cleaning the fluff n foil out, then there's the PCB to rebuild...
Fit fuses, use a dim bulb tester, wear goggles, ear protection, condoms, work with the other hand in your pocket...

Thanks for making me smile, it hurts a little less 

And people ride my arse about replacing all old electrolytics. I rest my case. 

Hopefully the damage can be fixed. Those boards took quite the hit.   

I've just found mitigating circumstances for that poor capacitor.
Not for myself though, I should be old and experienced enough to not get caught by that trap!
For my defense it was a while since anyone pulled that one on me and well hidden under a circlipped platter....
I can expect just about anything in terms of damage now, I doubt the germanium output transistors liked that much.

Oops. 

[mnementh]

D'OH!

mnem
The electrical equivalent of Uncle Bumblefuck-ery...

[Vince]

Tek 575 again. See pics below. Inside the curve tracer  I spotted several of these cable clamps that are broken. Plastic gets brittle and cracks.

Of course I can probably salvage some from a donor scope, assuming they don't also break when I try to undo them ! 
.. but I thought hey, it's free to ask, so if anyone knows if this style of clamp can still be bought new these days, might as well replace all of them in the instrument. I am not too hopeful as their shape/style looks really old... but thought I would ask anyway !
I mean all the screws look really old too and apparently they all still exist today !    So... why not the clamps   

According to the parts list there are 4 different sizes:  1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 5/8".

Looked for part numbers on Sphere and Google but no joy.

ALSO : has anyone an original paper manual for the 575 ? In the PDF one I downloaded from Tekwiki, there are no exploded views to show you were all the mechanical parts go. Am thinking maybe the original printed manual does have that ? I mean I don't see the point of having a mechanical parts list if you don't give also all the exploded views to go with it ?! 

Couldn't find any for sale on Ebay.

[tautech]

Tek 575 again. See pics below. Inside the curve tracer  I spotted several of these cable clamps that are broken. Plastic gets brittle and cracks.

Hunt for plastic P clips.

[syau]

Tek 575 again. See pics below. Inside the curve tracer  I spotted several of these cable clamps that are broken. Plastic gets brittle and cracks.

Of course I can probably salvage some from a donor scope, assuming they don't also break when I try to undo them ! 
.. but I thought hey, it's free to ask, so if anyone knows if this style of clamp can still be bought new these days, might as well replace all of them in the instrument. I am not too hopeful as their shape/style looks really old... but thought I would ask anyway !
I mean all the screws look really old too and apparently they all still exist today !    So... why not the clamps   

According to the parts list there are 4 different sizes:  1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 5/8".

Looked for part numbers on Sphere and Google but no joy.

ALSO : has anyone an original paper manual for the 575 ? In the PDF one I downloaded from Tekwiki, there are no exploded views to show you were all the mechanical parts go. Am thinking maybe the original printed manual does have that ? I mean I don't see the point of having a mechanical parts list if you don't give also all the exploded views to go with it ?! 

Couldn't find any for sale on Ebay.

Something similar:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJR01YM/] [url]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJR01YM/[/url]

or search for nylon P clip.

[xrunner]

Hunt for plastic P clips.

Yea P clamps, cable clamps - all over Ebay. I have a whole box full of different sizes like those but white.

Vince - I know how picky you are  They ain't going to be exactly the same design, they ain't going to be exactly the same color. You have to decide how important that will be.

[Neomys Sapiens]

That's the problem which is solved by for instance Torx. They won't cam out. I do agree with you in principle, the Phillips works well if treated well. But it still needs pressure. And thats a dilution of effort I'd rather not do.

Which reminds me maybe I need to buy an inpact screwdriver

Do you guys have one?

Yes, I've got a Wera one. Haven't really used it a lot. Torxen holding brake discs might be a good application. Most hex head screws respond pretty well to Reason, which is my name for this arbiter of persuasion..

Gewaltig ist des Schlossers Kraft wenn er mit einem Hebel schafft!
(didn't see Neper's earlier post.)

[Neomys Sapiens]

Other areas of France, other tradgedies....
OT of course but isn't that what this thread is all about? I thought I'd throw this in for BD139 and, well... general safety while troubleshooting.
Just been working on an old (French-made Ribet-Desjardins) turntable.

Of course being old, French, and small series hand crafted equipment made building in a fuse optional.
We all know dim bulb testing is for wimps, right?
I had it plugged in spinning some AC/DC, trying to estimate what needed doing to it, no sound but maybe the transformer was humming a little too loud. (Still it was quiet compared to the blast that followed.)
The PS filter went off with the loudest bang I've heard since playing with series charged microwave oven capacitors.
The panel containing the ampifiers jumped at me while the PS filter cap nuked the closest PCB.
Now I have a whole lot more work than expected just cleaning the fluff n foil out, then there's the PCB to rebuild...

Fit fuses, use a dim bulb tester, wear goggles, ear protection, condoms, work with the other hand in your pocket...

Hey! No confetti before the 11. 11.!