Forgive the dumb question, but why not just put that tool in a vice to squeeze it smoothly instead of hammering it ?!
The smooth progressive action of the vice would be kind to the lug wouldn't it.
I mean a real big/full size garage vice of course, not the tiny vice we use in the lab, that goes without saying !With a little care you can indeed make very serviceable crimps in a vise if you know how.
Not so much with the smaller cable sizes however in a permanent installation where there will be zero vibration or rarely a need to disconnect it, then bucket type lugs, those without a opening at the bottom of the bucket then soldering on crimps works just fine however a cleaner job is done with a Propane torch rather than Oxy/Acetylene.
Crimps in the vice with commercially or homemade lugs really need a reasonably heavy wall lug to withstand the compression as only 2 sides of the crimp are contacted on.
First you need a crimp that well matches the cable size and then the Hex head of a bolt or stout nut for just one of the Hex faces to be squeezed into the side of the barrel of the crimp to leave a deep rectangle pressed into the crimp.
I've used this method with 100% success over many decades on heavy welder leads and with a couple of layers of shrink sleeve for strain relief it's a quick solution if you don't have some blowtorch handy or your sparky mate with the good crimpers has gone AWOL.
Forgive the dumb question, but why not just put that tool in a vice to squeeze it smoothly instead of hammering it ?!
The smooth progressive action of the vice would be kind to the lug wouldn't it.
I mean a real big/full size garage vice of course, not the tiny vice we use in the lab, that goes without saying !With a little care you can indeed make very serviceable crimps in a vise if you know how.
Not so much with the smaller cable sizes however in a permanent installation where there will be zero vibration or rarely a need to disconnect it, then bucket type lugs, those without a opening at the bottom of the bucket then soldering on crimps works just fine however a cleaner job is done with a Propane torch rather than Oxy/Acetylene.
Crimps in the vice with commercially or homemade lugs really need a reasonably heavy wall lug to withstand the compression as only 2 sides of the crimp are contacted on.
First you need a crimp that well matches the cable size and then the Hex head of a bolt or stout nut for just one of the Hex faces to be squeezed into the side of the barrel of the crimp to leave a deep rectangle pressed into the crimp.
I've used this method with 100% success over many decades on heavy welder leads and with a couple of layers of shrink sleeve for strain relief it's a quick solution if you don't have some blowtorch handy or your sparky mate with the good crimpers has gone AWOL.
Edit
However care must be taken where one might do such non-standard procedures so to properly consider the risk to life, limb or property.Those are the things that men have done....and should keep mum about.
Except in dire emergency, (and this does not include getting standard work done, which is just comfortable to have completed) such as in the field or under the threat of losses of lives or property, they should practice such or make the knowledge available. It is surely nothing that should be written in a forum where some not-so-well informed person might get the idea that it is a technique that can stand in its own right against proper procedures.
SOME PARTS OF A 54621D are here. mnem *disappears into the dwagon-cave*
SOME PARTS OF A 54621D are here. mnem *disappears into the dwagon-cave*
eBay auction: #394108410221 https://www.ebay.com/usr/tekyard_medical
"Item not as described" dispute filed.
mnem
Yes I was right, we can talk for pages and pages about crimping a big cable.
This is the only place that can happen so flawlessly.
Fantastic performance gang! Many thanks!
My major concern is now the power company: will they let me interconnect my solar/battery system IF I do not plan to sell back the energy to them?
All what I need is to stay passive as I am now....no change in my current contract.
I sent already an email... I am scared to read their response.
SOME PARTS OF A 54621D are here. mnem *disappears into the dwagon-cave*
eBay auction: #394108410221 https://www.ebay.com/usr/tekyard_medical
"Item not as described" dispute filed.
mnem
SOME PARTS OF A 54621D are here. mnem *disappears into the dwagon-cave*
eBay auction: #394108410221 https://www.ebay.com/usr/tekyard_medical
"Item not as described" dispute filed.
mnem
Hopefully they will write it off and just refund. Had that a couple of times. Good luck mnem
Then you just need to find a display for it
eBay auction: #394108410221 https://www.ebay.com/usr/tekyard_medical
"Item not as described" dispute filed.
mnem
Yeah that's a shit show and a half
I bet that happened because someone couldn't work out how to replace a capacitor
Wow sorry Dragon ! I guess we now know why it was so good looking on the outside yet so suspiciously cheap...
But at least as you say it's ebay so you can file a dispute. Had it been on CL or my French equivalent where I buy all my old junk, the only option would be to cry and swallow the pill, however big it might be.
Hoping you can get your money back. In that kind of situation, does the seller pay for the return shipping, or is it you, hence you will have lost some money in the end anyway ?
Wow sorry Dragon ! I guess we now know why it was so good looking on the outside yet so suspiciously cheap...
But at least as you say it's ebay so you can file a dispute. Had it been on CL or my French equivalent where I buy all my old junk, the only option would be to cry and swallow the pill, however big it might be.
Hoping you can get your money back. In that kind of situation, does the seller pay for the return shipping, or is it you, hence you will have lost some money in the end anyway ?
If you'd bought it on your version française de Craigslist, you would have paid and picked up in person.
[...]
So no, not the same. I'm pretty sure that you'd have said "No thank you!" if the unit or the seller seemed bogus in person.
mnem
*in no mood to suffer fools gladly*
Am I missing something here, to me, it is exactly as described, not working, but lights up, nothing on screen and handle missing Have you powered it up?, did the lights come on? If so, sorry, but I think they have fulfilled their brief. Ok, it is clear that at least 1 PCB is missing, are they supposed to be aware of that? It sucks, I know, but the Dwagon is normally more astute than this, did you not ask any questions about this?
Am I missing something here, to me, it is exactly as described, not working, but lights up, nothing on screen and handle missing Have you powered it up?, did the lights come on? If so, sorry, but I think they have fulfilled their brief. Ok, it is clear that at least 1 PCB is missing, are they supposed to be aware of that? It sucks, I know, but the Dwagon is normally more astute than this, did you not ask any questions about this?
Short version: It was sold as an oscilloscope for parts, not sold as 75% of an oscilloscope with crucial parts missing.
That is "significantly not as described".
As I explained to Vince; had it been a non-critical external part obviously missing from photos, or an accessory, that would have been different.
There's fair reason to believe the seller knew they were doing something dishonest, or they'd have taken the whole monitor. It is much easier to remove than that PCB and doesn't risk causing a CRT implosion.
Of course, taking the whole monitor would've left a very obvious hole in the face of the unit.
SELLER HOMEPAGE: https://www.ebay.com/usr/tekyard_medical
mnem
Those bent pins on the CRT totes made me go tho...
Forgive the dumb question, but why not just put that tool in a vice to squeeze it smoothly instead of hammering it ?!
The smooth progressive action of the vice would be kind to the lug wouldn't it.
I mean a real big/full size garage vice of course, not the tiny vice we use in the lab, that goes without saying !With a little care you can indeed make very serviceable crimps in a vise if you know how.
Not so much with the smaller cable sizes however in a permanent installation where there will be zero vibration or rarely a need to disconnect it, then bucket type lugs, those without a opening at the bottom of the bucket then soldering on crimps works just fine however a cleaner job is done with a Propane torch rather than Oxy/Acetylene.
Crimps in the vice with commercially or homemade lugs really need a reasonably heavy wall lug to withstand the compression as only 2 sides of the crimp are contacted on.
First you need a crimp that well matches the cable size and then the Hex head of a bolt or stout nut for just one of the Hex faces to be squeezed into the side of the barrel of the crimp to leave a deep rectangle pressed into the crimp.
I've used this method with 100% success over many decades on heavy welder leads and with a couple of layers of shrink sleeve for strain relief it's a quick solution if you don't have some blowtorch handy or your sparky mate with the good crimpers has gone AWOL.
Edit
However care must be taken where one might do such non-standard procedures so to properly consider the risk to life, limb or property.
Oh didn't know CL FORCED you to not ship, that's weird, why can't the seller and buyer do whatever the hell they want... if both parties agree to ship, that's none of CL's business ?!
Anyway, didn't know about that...
Crossing my human fingers and toes for you, hoping you can keep the scope and get a refund, that would be super cool, a bunch of parts delivered to your door step for free ! ...to help you fix or/and maintain the next one you will buy, of course !
Honestly, I doubt the seller is anything other than honest, look at his feedback rating etc. I think that they did plug it in as basically it essentially the power supply remains and the front panel, the lights did come on when they powered it up but nothing on the screen. The say that they are marketing and sellers of medical equipment, not makers or engineers, so the person may honestly be unaware that something vital is missing. I hope that the seller accepts the complaint and refunds you in full, and you get to keep what you have. But based on recent experience with eBay and their customer support with my recent problem, I wouldn't be surprised if they have to step in and decide who is at fault that they side with the seller.
You will remember that I recently sold some speaker stands via their GSP program, and despite the fact that I spoke to a customer support team member in Utah, who told me that they would find in my favour, they ultimately did the complete opposite. It was a fecking good job that had the foresight to actually pay more on the carriage to provide insurance on the item, otherwise I'd have been £50 out of pocket, as it was I'm about £3 out of pocket, the cost of the insurance because after a few weeks I did the insured value back.
Ebay is not the place it once was, it seems that they are like most other corporations today, obsessed with money and fair play seems to have flown out the door.
Oh didn't know CL FORCED you to not ship, that's weird, why can't the seller and buyer do whatever the hell they want... if both parties agree to ship, that's none of CL's business ?!
Anyway, didn't know about that...
Crossing my human fingers and toes for you, hoping you can keep the scope and get a refund, that would be super cool, a bunch of parts delivered to your door step for free ! ...to help you fix or/and maintain the next one you will buy, of course !
Woops, no they don't force anything. They don't facilitate anything either, like shipping, payment or provide any dispute resolution services.
As a result, their standard advice is to always do business in person, as that is your best means to avoid fraud.
That's why I assumed your similar site followed similar practices, unless you're silly enough to just PayPal money to some rando on the intardnet and hope you get your stuff. At least over here, that'd be just throwing money away.
mnem
Forgive the dumb question, but why not just put that tool in a vice to squeeze it smoothly instead of hammering it ?!
The smooth progressive action of the vice would be kind to the lug wouldn't it.
I mean a real big/full size garage vice of course, not the tiny vice we use in the lab, that goes without saying !With a little care you can indeed make very serviceable crimps in a vise if you know how.
Not so much with the smaller cable sizes however in a permanent installation where there will be zero vibration or rarely a need to disconnect it, then bucket type lugs, those without a opening at the bottom of the bucket then soldering on crimps works just fine however a cleaner job is done with a Propane torch rather than Oxy/Acetylene.
Crimps in the vice with commercially or homemade lugs really need a reasonably heavy wall lug to withstand the compression as only 2 sides of the crimp are contacted on.
First you need a crimp that well matches the cable size and then the Hex head of a bolt or stout nut for just one of the Hex faces to be squeezed into the side of the barrel of the crimp to leave a deep rectangle pressed into the crimp.
I've used this method with 100% success over many decades on heavy welder leads and with a couple of layers of shrink sleeve for strain relief it's a quick solution if you don't have some blowtorch handy or your sparky mate with the good crimpers has gone AWOL.
Edit
However care must be taken where one might do such non-standard procedures so to properly consider the risk to life, limb or property.Hey Vince, about the vise crimp we're trying to achieve with a Hex nut or bolt head, similar to this done with a commercial tool with a plunger pressing into a Vee .... this one a double - crimp some are + plungers.
Anyways, just the flat of a Hex done longways or across the lug depending on the size of the lug and the bolt/nut hex used to squeeeeze it together.
This is for a pis ant old and little 140A caddy welder lead, didn't check but probably 25mm2 cable and 13mm hole in the lug. Muppets that made it couldn't even be bothered to sleeve it for bending strain relief so it's starting to show signs of early failure.
Final word:
Any lug crimp for mains must be done with approved tools to meet compliance.......trying to get my sparky mate's old crimpers that he can no longer use for NZ mains work and comply with a COC. (cert of compliance)
Honestly, I doubt the seller is anything other than honest, look at his feedback rating etc. I think that they did plug it in as basically it essentially the power supply remains and the front panel, the lights did come on when they powered it up but nothing on the screen. The say that they are marketing and sellers of medical equipment, not makers or engineers, so the person may honestly be unaware that something vital is missing. I hope that the seller accepts the complaint and refunds you in full, and you get to keep what you have. But based on recent experience with eBay and their customer support with my recent problem, I wouldn't be surprised if they have to step in and decide who is at fault that they side with the seller.
You will remember that I recently sold some speaker stands via their GSP program, and despite the fact that I spoke to a customer support team member in Utah, who told me that they would find in my favour, they ultimately did the complete opposite. It was a fecking good job that had the foresight to actually pay more on the carriage to provide insurance on the item, otherwise I'd have been £50 out of pocket, as it was I'm about £3 out of pocket, the cost of the insurance because after a few weeks I did the insured value back.
Ebay is not the place it once was, it seems that they are like most other corporations today, obsessed with money and fair play seems to have flown out the door.
There's no way the seller didn't know about this condition; you literally cannot handle it without the back falling off. The only thing holding it together was the bubble-wrap.
LOL... You'd think 100% feedback means that wouldn't you...? But no... eBay has a system, and sellers game it constantly to keep a high feedback rating. High volume sellers can get 5 bad feedback removed from every 1,000; and there are numerous other tricks a seller can use as well.
eBay is much more about damage control to the eBay brand than they are about actually providing a safe place to buy or sell, and they have been for a long, long time.
I recently posted neutral feedback on a purchase where this happened:
The seller sold a foam surround kit that was supposedly "for my RS-3000 speakers", but when it arrived, the "cement" in the kit was common carpenter's wood glue. Now this is not the best choice even for paper cones; it soaks into the cone and if you have to remove it, it destroys the paper... like say, if you need to replace the foam again in another 15-20 years. But it is absolutely the wrong stuff for a poly cone speaker. Will not stick to it at all.
My feedback was neutral, and I gave 5 stars on all other aspects as shipping was reasonable and prompt, and my comment was absolutely factual - that they'd sent carpenter's wood glue instead of the cement needed for my poly cone speakers, and that even tho they'd refunded purchase price, the return process made me eat the outbound shipping.
Gone the next day.
Cheers,
mnem
eBay is a cesspool. never spend more there than you are willing to write off as a bad day.
Am I missing something here, to me, it is exactly as described, not working, but lights up, nothing on screen and handle missing Have you powered it up?, did the lights come on? If so, sorry, but I think they have fulfilled their brief. Ok, it is clear that at least 1 PCB is missing, are they supposed to be aware of that? It sucks, I know, but the Dwagon is normally more astute than this, did you not ask any questions about this?
Short version: It was sold as an oscilloscope for parts, not sold as 75% of an oscilloscope with crucial parts missing.
That is "significantly not as described".
As I explained to Vince; had it been a non-critical external part obviously missing from photos, or an accessory, that would have been different.
There's fair reason to believe the seller knew they were doing something dishonest, or they'd have taken the whole monitor. It is much easier to remove than that PCB and doesn't risk causing a CRT implosion.
Of course, taking the whole monitor would've left a very obvious hole in the face of the unit.
SELLER HOMEPAGE: https://www.ebay.com/usr/tekyard_medical
mnem
Those bent pins on the CRT totes made me go tho...
My major concern is now the power company: will they let me interconnect my solar/battery system IF I do not plan to sell back the energy to them?
All what I need is to stay passive as I am now....no change in my current contract.
I sent already an email... I am scared to read their response.
Most of the horror stories I read about are exactly the opposite: some monkey-butt thinking they're going to "stick it to da man" because they read somewhere that the electric company has to allow you to backfeed and that they have to pay you for the electricity you generate. In those cases, you as a "power plant" have to ensure QOS and they will have very specific demands as to the hardware they allow you to connect to their grid.
In a "consumer-only" scenario, I believe there is going to have be some form of power conditioning or isolation that has to be installed between "your grid" and "their grid"; even if it is as simple as you using a big-arse transformer to charge your battery bank when needed. I do not believe they will allow you to connect their grid directly to the solar-powered/generated AC you use for your own household AC power under any circumstances.
mnem
Unfortunately you can’t keep the same meter as that meter is not equipped to read the solar panels. The new mater works in conjunction with the panels and that way we receive the correct information from the panels as well as the usage.
I knew it
I will try one more time, but they are forcing me to go off grid...
1) I do not want to buy at the double price I am selling back to them
2) I want to put how much panels I want on my roof in my property
3) Yes the base price for a bidirectional meter is 16$ instead or the regular 12$ each month, and recently a power company in the area bumped it up to 30$/month just because.
It not about the business case, it's the principle.
4th July is coming.....
I N D E P E N D E N C E *cringe*