PCB's and built unit; Vince, can you handle the 0603's?
Yes I can ! It's a huge pain, it's butchery up close, but it's functional... I think !
00H30 here, just spent 3 hours, 3 solid hours soldering this thing !
I've e-mailed you the updated schematics(attached here); looks like you've forgot about.
I did remember about azn updated and simplified schematic, and I did hunt for it 10 times, scrolling back pages on TEA / HERE... somehow my brain had forgotten it was in your e-mails rather than TEA
One mistake already spotted: remove C2(the board is set-up for both LT1761/LP2985; one has cap to the ground, the other to the out+).
Well in my defense, I was only following the schematic, just the wrong one !
Fixed now !
Extra parts were included to please Murphy, and to avoid searching the nooks and crannies.
Yes thanks for that !
Somehow I managed not to lose any ! I was very careful but with my big fingers, even trying your best is hardly a guarantee...
R8&9 give you the current sense gain;
Oh OK ! I see now... it's as complicated as I thought, I can now see it's just a standard non-inverting montage.
the original 330Ω is good up to 3A, with 200Ω is good up to 5A.
Hmm yes, easy to calculate now you point it all to me.
5A will be a tad on the low side since I need 5.1 at least to test the PSU I am trying to "fix" for the old man.
Maybe I could lower these 200R resistor just a tad to make sure I can get up to 5.5a or something.
Nope ! Of course I have no SMD resistors in stock... I will add that to my shopping list.
The pot value is not critical; anywhere between 1-100k is OK(intended to be full pot, not trimmer).
Yes that's what I thought too, when I got mixed up with the 1K and 10K trimmers on my bench, and soldered the 10K one by accident !
With the two 499 resistors removed / modulation stuff gone, there is only that 10K resistor in line with the Opamp input. I could have not put it in place, but I put it anyway as it was better looking than putting a blob of solder to bridge the footprint ! Since its presence does not affect the voltage registered by the Opamp, I thought let's just leaved it there, does no harm !
Troubleshooting: before you go any further, check for 10V and 1.25V(VREF);
OK I just did that. Looking good as far power supplies. Fluke 11 DMM registers spot on 10.00V and 1.250V, not even kidding !
I guess I can't ask for better than that !
Then before installing the FET / trying the load, I decided to test that the trimmer could indeed vary the voltage between ground and the 1.25V reference supply, if just to make sure it was set to 0A at power up rather than full blast !
That's where things started going strange.... my trimmer does not appear to have any lock : I can turn it for hours either direction, the screw never hits a stop ?!
Maybe that's how they are designed, some kind of "clutch" mechanism to keep you from damaging the delicate worm screw mechanism inside ?
So I didn't worry that much about it, but still wanted to check that it could vary the voltage, and make sure it was outputting 0V rather than 1.25V...
So I hooked the DMM between ground and the wiper... and I see two things :
1) If I wind up the trimmer XXXXXX turns to the left, I can get to ground level, good.
2) Then I start turning it CW to increased the voltage, one turn at a time
3) I notice just how slowly the voltage rises.... bit worried.
4) Once I got to 0.85V or something, voltage stops climbing, it won't go any further.
5) To get to that voltage required me cranking the trimmer at least 20 turns !
So... why can't the trimmer reach Vref / 1.25V, and do 20 turn trimmers (or more, I don' t know ! ) exist ?!
So... glad I checked that. I need to troubleshoot that before going any further.
Otherwise is a good job (well R10 is upside down; did you installed the caps on the bottom? )
Yes I did ! After looking for 2 minutes at the top side and failing to locate them, I decided to flip the board and saw two "suspicious" footprints right under each opamp package !