Another one from the haul :
A rack mount Ballantine Laboratories, type 320A, made in the USA, rings a bell ?
Found a manual for the type 320 not 320A.
All hollow state technology inside.
It's an RMS voltmeter, but a real one.
I didn't even know one could make such fancy things as an RMS meter in the hollow-state era... apparently you could.
According to the stuff makred on the front panel, it can go up to 4MHz and handle a crest factor of 5 or even 15 depending how you use it.
Not too shabby eh ?
Quite a wide dynamic range as well, full scale from 300µV up to 300V.
The "mode" switch gives you 4 choices :
- Null Detector
- RMS Meter
- Mean Square
- Amplifier
Popped the hood to see what it's like inside. Found a bug fossilized on the chassis. Probably explains why the instrument acts weirdly, the bug must have corrupted the firmware on the CPU board, bummer
so I tried to power it up... because I just can't help, I am curious...
It's american but thanks to my 25+ collection of hollow-state Tek scopes I have.... one, just one power cable...
Buzzed the socket. Ground pin makes good contact with the chassis, no short anywhere, primary reads 20+ ohms.... good.
So I fired it up through my Dim bulb tester, which lit very.. dimly. Let it there for a couple minute to let caps reform... bulb still dim, good.
Could see some tubes inside light up a bit, good too.
So I removed the DBT to give full power to the instrument, crossing fingers..... yeah, works fine, does not trip any breaker !
Pilot lamp does not light because... I checked, there is no bulb behind the red cover
The meter movement looks nice and in like new condition. Razor shaprt needle and equipped with a mirror.
I applied a signal to the input with my sig gen. THe meter does react... in weird and wonderful ways, depending what position you set the range switch to....
One some ranges it behaves almost sensibly, though it reads way off. I will contact the manufacturer and ask for my money back.
At the least it's clear that the meter movement can move freely from left to right, so that's the most important I guess.
The rest if just tubes and circuitry, it can be replaced / fixed.
Boat anchors are worth nothing here, so again I am offering free to a good home... before I take it apart to salvage what can be.