Switch Question :
I took apart that old TE below, a strange kind of RF gen., from the (60's looks like, though it's solid state inside somehow.
I salvaged all the switches from output step attenuator.
They look like beefy things, that would normally switch big mains loads but... since they are used to switch delicate RF signal, I fear they must be specialized in conveying RF signals, and are not capable, despite they big size, of safely switching mains with a high current ?
There is no part number on them so I can't pull a datasheet for them. Only marking on them is at the back, it reads " KAY " , which appears to be the name of the manufacturer of that TE, if I believe the front panel of the instrument, located in Pine Brook New Jersey, US of A.
Looks like the forum image bug is biting again.
Flare, when you post images, ignore the first slot and start uploading your images from the second slot. There's a bug in the forum software that messes up the images if you use the first upload slot.
After I was announced this:
I got an email today announcing the delivery of my hp 5370B time interval counter to me today!
...snip...
Full story here.
Switch Question :
I took apart that old TE below, a strange kind of RF gen., from the (60's looks like, though it's solid state inside somehow.
I salvaged all the switches from output step attenuator.
They look like beefy things, that would normally switch big mains loads but... since they are used to switch delicate RF signal, I fear they must be specialized in conveying RF signals, and are not capable, despite they big size, of safely switching mains with a high current ?
There is no part number on them so I can't pull a datasheet for them. Only marking on them is at the back, it reads " KAY " , which appears to be the name of the manufacturer of that TE, if I believe the front panel of the instrument, located in Pine Brook New Jersey, US of A.
Oh Vince,
Why did you do that? Those switches, resistors and housing made a very nice switched RF atttenuator and you broke it up
Ok you might have had to cut out the section of front panel but it would have been worth it.
The generatoe was good for CW as wel as pulse. What coverage did it have? VHF at least but it looked multiband.
No, the switches are no good for power, just low level signals and RF. I looks like KAY bought standard tpggle mechanisms and put their own RF contacts and insulators on the back. You will have to check but they may ground a terminal to the bush in one position.
Robert.
If you have a 3D printer, I made a 3D printable version that might help you out..
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3606417
I've bought an ANGENG SZ20 as a comfort purchase , the level of TE drought is terrible, anyways someone around Mannheim with a reasonable calibrator who wants to do a quick check/characterization ?
Cheers,
DC1MC
For risk takers:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005201649970.html
So you opened it.
Was it a regular pot on top of not so regular something?I originally opened the back in situ in the hope I could repair it in place, as I'm pretty sure that the technically correct way to remove it is to remove that PCB, desolder the entire Horizontal timing assembly and then remove it from that. In the end there was just enough tolerance to get it out leaving the rest in place.
I've attached a picture of the insides, as you can see the crack fully separated. The wiper assembly actuates the switch on the rear which is inside the same casing. Also attached is a picture showing that due to it being switched, it doesn't have a regular track, the latched area of the switch is solid metal instead of carbon, for negligible resistance (I assume this is normal for switched pots).
If anyone has the service manual it would be great, I've just gotten the operating manual from Iwatsu Europe which I think I'll upload to Electrotanya as it's too large to host here.
OK, now please excuse me but I need to go back to the bench to dismantle some more stuff.... no don't worry, no more TE... just random consumer junk friends have been giving me this week.
A flat TV, a coffee machine with an open circuit heating element and the manufacturer won't sell any parts so as to make sure you buy a new one rather than fix the old one, and some 2 wheel electric gizmo Segway style, and also an electric pruning shear. The latter I didn't even know existed... but there you go, I learned something. They managed to shove an electric motor and gearbox into the top handle, and the battery into the lower handle. I was stunned....
I did manage to fix something though. Friend who passed the coffee machine also gave to fix the 20 year old Philips stereo system of his old man. CD player would not work.. he got lucky, I had already fixed the same problem on the exact same stereo.... from my dad, 2 years ago. So took me only 2 minutes to establish the diagnosis (tired laser as always, need to replace the complete transport), and 2 hours instead of XXX to take it apart and fix it and put it all back together.
So this one will run for a few more years, I helped the environment, it's not gonna be an e-waste just yet...
See ? I can make good sometimes.... just sometimes
I've bought an ANGENG SZ20 as a comfort purchase , the level of TE drought is terrible, anyways someone around Mannheim with a reasonable calibrator who wants to do a quick check/characterization ?
Cheers,
DC1MC
For risk takers:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005201649970.htmlI haven't made it to a 'reasonable calibrator', but you could use my 'DMMcheck'.
So you opened it.
Was it a regular pot on top of not so regular something?I originally opened the back in situ in the hope I could repair it in place, as I'm pretty sure that the technically correct way to remove it is to remove that PCB, desolder the entire Horizontal timing assembly and then remove it from that. In the end there was just enough tolerance to get it out leaving the rest in place.
I've attached a picture of the insides, as you can see the crack fully separated. The wiper assembly actuates the switch on the rear which is inside the same casing. Also attached is a picture showing that due to it being switched, it doesn't have a regular track, the latched area of the switch is solid metal instead of carbon, for negligible resistance (I assume this is normal for switched pots).
If anyone has the service manual it would be great, I've just gotten the operating manual from Iwatsu Europe which I think I'll upload to Electrotanya as it's too large to host here.
Dang, I was hoping it's a two in one style but it's more like two thirds and three halves.
Maybe you'll be more vice if you mangle the rivet a bit and remove the switch part from the pot.
With luck you can swap the switch part from old to new, but that probably requires that both are from the same source.
Last change would be adding a switch circuit that recognizes the resistance.
Old Tek uses the style where end side is switching but I guess those are usually less packed and more stacked, and possibly not electrical.
THS710 can become a THS720 (I did this to mine), but not a THS720P, on the other side a THS710A/THS720A may be easily modified to become a THS720P. Nice trick with the C cells, I splurged 17EUR and got one "original" for mine.
Cheers,
DC1MC
So, got a delivery from PCBWay today.....
I needed some new faceplates for some of my TM500 modules and I thought I'd give their CNC service a go. All up they cost about US$45 a piece (I was sponsored for a youtube video so I paid nothing, full disclosure... )
They came out realllllyyyy nice.
I got them machined in aluminium, then bead blasted and clear anodized. So far the DM502 is assembled as shown (I made a few inconsequential modifications to the 3D file if anyone else decides to get one made) and I'll assemble the SG504 and PG506 later.
Files will be uploaded to Tekwiki etc later.
Boy do I love well machined parts.