EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: itsbiodiversity on October 24, 2017, 02:38:48 pm
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Does anyone out there have any "favorite" sets of test leads, alligator clips, banana to banana, etc out there in interweb-land (e.g. amazon, ebay, tequipment)? I need an assortment and do not want to get hosed with a very poor set (as has happened in the past), but also would rather not purchase the highest dollar available. Working in mA to 10A range at most. Also performing 4W \$\Omega\$ measurements for PRT. Just something reliable. Thanks in advance.
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This question has been asked quite a few times before. Pomona seems to be a common response from other members in these discussions. Search on Pomona on the forum and you'll find them.
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If I was living in the US of A
I would go Probe Master all the way!
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I have a whole bunch of silicone banana leads from Hirschmann.
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I'd recommend Probemaster (http://probemaster.com/) over Fluke/Pomona where possible; especially for spring loaded probes as they're better quality. Top shelf performance IME and less expensive than Fluke/Pomona as you're buying directly from the manufacturer. I've been using their stuff for years without issue.
As per a kit, the 9104 Deluxe Electronics Kit (http://probemaster.com/9104-electronic-deluxe-test-lead-kit/) is a great addition to any meter IMHO.
FWIW, Fluke owns Pomona and the quality has taken a turn for the worse (Danaher/Fortive). :( That said, some of Pomona's offerings are still decent, such as their dual banana connectors.
You can also DIY your own; if you wish or can't find what you need. Mueller is really good for connectors (i.e. banana, crocodile/alligator clips, and Kelvin). My favorite is the retractable & stackable banana (BU-32614 (https://www.productsforautomation.com/mueller-bu326140-black-retractable-banana-plug-p/bu-32614-0.htm)). The reason is they work with new and older equipment that can't handle safety shrouds.
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I appreciate the replies. I did search the forum, but I just wanted an updated response. Probemaster seems to be the current "go-to" on this forum. As for making them in-house - does anyone have any warnings or things to look out for when constructing my own? As always the feedback is much appreciated.
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I'd recommend Probemaster (http://probemaster.com/) over Fluke/Pomona where possible; especially for spring loaded probes as they're better quality. Top shelf performance IME and less expensive than Fluke/Pomona as you're buying directly from the manufacturer. I've been using their stuff for years without issue.
As per a kit, the 9104 Deluxe Electronics Kit (http://probemaster.com/9104-electronic-deluxe-test-lead-kit/) is a great addition to any meter IMHO.
FWIW, Fluke owns Pomona and the quality has taken a turn for the worse (Danaher/Fortive). :( That said, some of Pomona's offerings are still decent, such as their dual banana connectors.
You can also DIY your own; if you wish or can't find what you need. Mueller is really good for connectors (i.e. banana, crocodile/alligator clips, and Kelvin). My favorite is the retractable & stackable banana (BU-32614 (https://www.productsforautomation.com/mueller-bu326140-black-retractable-banana-plug-p/bu-32614-0.htm)). The reason is they work with new and older equipment that can't handle safety shrouds.
probemaster for USA buyers.
if you're DIYing probes or things with shrouded connectors, I feel that a decent crimper makes your life easier because there will be a lot of strain during normal use and you want a nice solid fit. pomona silicone coated wiring is pretty good.
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For banana-to-banana and some variants, I really like the Cal-Test cables. They have unique stackable retractable-shroud jacks and nice silicon wires. They have a bunch of lengths and colors available. IMHO the best banana cables around. Example, the CT2148 series:
http://www.caltestelectronics.com/ctitem/110-plugs-banana-plug-test-leads-stacking-retractable-sleeve-plug-to-stacking-retractable-sleeve-plug/CT2148 (http://www.caltestelectronics.com/ctitem/110-plugs-banana-plug-test-leads-stacking-retractable-sleeve-plug-to-stacking-retractable-sleeve-plug/CT2148)
For actual test leads, Pomona (Fluke) or Probemaster.
The Fluke TL71 is a classic. TL910 for fine geometry. Pomona (OEM for the Fluke probes - and owned by Fluke) has identical models at lower prices and some good test lead kits that are worth the money.
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Why are a majority of the Pomona leads that I come across such small gauge? example https://www.amazon.com/Pomona-3782-24-02-MINIGRABBER-Banana-PLUG/dp/B005T62WII/ref=sr_1_12?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1508874299&sr=8-12&keywords=pomona+test+leads&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011 (https://www.amazon.com/Pomona-3782-24-02-MINIGRABBER-Banana-PLUG/dp/B005T62WII/ref=sr_1_12?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1508874299&sr=8-12&keywords=pomona+test+leads&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011) I have this same set already and am curious what your opinions are on the wire gauge.
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Pomona seems stupidly expensive for normal banana plug leads. A nice set will quickly cost hundreds.
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I have a whole bunch of silicone banana leads from Hirschmann.
I was thinking about getting a set of these, as they seem both qualitative and affordable. The thing I wasn't to sure about is whether I should go for banana leads plus an assortment of plug-on extensions, or whether I should buy those extensions on a lead on their own. The downside of having plug-ons is having one or two extra contact resistances in your circuit.
Can I ask where you bought yours exactly?
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I have a whole bunch of silicone banana leads from Hirschmann.
I was thinking about getting a set of these, as they seem both qualitative and affordable. The thing I wasn't to sure about is whether I should go for banana leads plus an assortment of plug-on extensions, or whether I should buy those extensions on a lead on their own. The downside of having plug-ons is having one or two extra contact resistances in your circuit.
Can I ask where you bought yours exactly?
I am interested also as the Hirschmann leads I have come across are more expensive than the Ponoma.
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I am interested also as the Hirschmann leads I have come across are more expensive than the Ponoma.
I think it depends on which side of the pond you're on. We're both in the EU, while you seem to be in the US. Just like Brymen is much more expensive in the US, and Fluke is stupidly expensive here. I tend to weep a little when I see the dollar prices on some neat Fluke gear sometimes :'(
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I have a whole bunch of silicone banana leads from Hirschmann.
I was thinking about getting a set of these, as they seem both qualitative and affordable. The thing I wasn't to sure about is whether I should go for banana leads plus an assortment of plug-on extensions, or whether I should buy those extensions on a lead on their own. The downside of having plug-ons is having one or two extra contact resistances in your circuit.
Can I ask where you bought yours exactly?
I am interested also as the Hirschmann leads I have come across are more expensive than the Ponoma.
Hirschmann is expensive on this side of the Atlantic IME.
Retractable Shroud Lead Kit (http://probemaster.com/retractable-shroud-lead-kit/)(5 leads, $41.25).
As per silicone wire, you can get various gauges and colors on eBay at a reasonable cost (30AWG to 10AWG; remnants of larger gauges pop up on occasion).
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Hirschmann is expensive on this side of the Atlantic IME.
Retractable Shroud Lead Kit (http://probemaster.com/retractable-shroud-lead-kit/)(5 leads, $41.25).
As per silicone wire, you can get various gauges and colors on eBay at a reasonable cost (30AWG to 10AWG; remnants of larger gauges pop up on occasion).
The point for me is to move away from eBay quality. It's causing occasional problems and I'm a bit done with that. I'd rather invest in some leads that should last me years, especially considering the absolute difference isn't massive.
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Hirschmann is expensive on this side of the Atlantic IME.
Retractable Shroud Lead Kit (http://probemaster.com/retractable-shroud-lead-kit/)(5 leads, $41.25).
As per silicone wire, you can get various gauges and colors on eBay at a reasonable cost (30AWG to 10AWG; remnants of larger gauges pop up on occasion).
The point for me is to move away from eBay quality. It's causing occasional problems and I'm a bit done with that. I'd rather invest in some leads that should last me years, especially considering the absolute difference isn't massive.
FWIW, the stuff I've gotten is OK.
But the real trick is to look for remnants (i.e. aerospace discards). >:D
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FWIW, the stuff I've gotten is OK.
But the real trick is to look for remnants (i.e. aerospace discards). >:D
I've gotten the banana plug part stuck in a device, with the actual lead no longer attached to it more than once. Dave has had a bad batch not too long ago too.
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The last few sets of banana leads I've worn through have been from Hirschmann. I really like the spring loaded safety leads, It's has adequate protection against mishaps but fits all kind of older banana jacks too.
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I highly recommend TL910. It's a wonderful probe, though building quality isn't that perfect (molding artifact, some pogo pins not held in place perfectly by friction, etc).
It works very well when probing fine geometries, and the pogo pin tip allows for damage free probing of large pads on bare die (which I often need to do).
Can you clarify this for me? I have never owned any probes with very sharp probe tips. I assume sharpness is always a good thing, right up until you start really damaging the things you are probing?
So is that the primary purpose of spring-loaded probes? To make good contact without really biting into something and damaging it?
And by "large pads on bare die" you mean on ICs themselves? I never have to do that. I assume that could be perilous. Can a moderate amount of pressure crack ICs easily?
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I have lots of this stuff and NONE of the manufacturers covers all my needs.
This includes the top-of-the line kits from Pomona, Probemaster, Mueller, Hirschmann/SKS etc.
Although the adaptor kit that Mueller gave away as a special recently is really nice.
For example, the spring-loaded miniature Hischmann/SLKS probes are far too weak.
See also my post HERE
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/useful-adaptor-techniques/msg1223935/#msg1223935 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/useful-adaptor-techniques/msg1223935/#msg1223935)
Another manufacturer to look at is Staeubli, better known as MultiContact.
Their basic connectors (4mm and 2mm both shrouded and bare) come in more options than SKS, and they have
also the leads for those purposes in supreme quality and with many options.
http://ec.staubli.com/products/productline/6 (http://ec.staubli.com/products/productline/6)
Also special grabbers and other accessories which are missing elsewhere.
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I like to have a selection of 4mm, 2mm and 0.64square as well as multiple interfaces between them whereever I work.
Of course, there is some tailoring involved: I don't need to carry the microminiature stuff when working with high power drives and I don't need cable lug adaptors for M10 on (most) PCBs.
Another info: some manufacturers of T&M equipment have test accessories not available elsewhere.
Such as those seen here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/show-your-multimeter (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/show-your-multimeter)!/msg1193926/#msg1193926
This GMC/Metrawatt furnished hooks and crocs with the large shroud fit over the collar of their test leads and retain very well. Gives good creep distances too.
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The point for me is to move away from eBay quality. It's causing occasional problems and I'm a bit done with that. I'd rather invest in some leads that should last me years, especially considering the absolute difference isn't massive.
That sucks. :--
Did you figure out the actual cause?
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That sucks. :--
Did you figure out the actual cause?
Are you sure you wanted to quote me?
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That sucks. :--
Did you figure out the actual cause?
Are you sure you wanted to quote me?
At least I got the text right. :palm: :-DD
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I appreciate the replies. I did search the forum, but I just wanted an updated response. Probemaster seems to be the current "go-to" on this forum. As for making them in-house - does anyone have any warnings or things to look out for when constructing my own? As always the feedback is much appreciated.
You didn't indicate in your post that you had taken on any of the information already on the forum, there are many many duplicate threads about test leads for multimeters, signal generators, scopes, etc each with a mass of user input. The market does not move fast enough to need "updated" replies when there are several detailed threads in the last 2 years alone.
I highly recommend TL910. It's a wonderful probe, though building quality isn't that perfect (molding artifact, some pogo pins not held in place perfectly by friction, etc).
It works very well when probing fine geometries, and the pogo pin tip allows for damage free probing of large pads on bare die (which I often need to do).
Can you clarify this for me? I have never owned any probes with very sharp probe tips. I assume sharpness is always a good thing, right up until you start really damaging the things you are probing?
So is that the primary purpose of spring-loaded probes? To make good contact without really biting into something and damaging it?
The spring loaded tips take your hand pressure out of the variables, a light press and you have a consistent pressure each time. That pressure of the spring can be selected (by changing the pogo pin tips) to match any limits of whats being probed. Sharpness of the tips helps break through oxide layers or conformal coating, which can be important on some projects and irrelevant on others and even some large body probes have very sharp tips on them (fluke TP220 for instance).
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At least I got the text right. :palm: :-DD
Was this about the getting plugs stuck in sockets? The cause seems to be cheapness on my part :P Banana lead plugs that haven't been soldered through, which fit too loosely or too tightly, skimpy wires, you name it. I'm a bit done second guessing the gear every time I see an odd reading, with it actually being the gear 80% of the time. Having a probe lead break on me during continuity testing also was a fun one. I'm not sure what would happen if I ever stuffed any actual current through one of these leads, but I have a feeling it wouldn't be pretty. Long story short, having Chinese alternatives on hand can be nice if you don't have anything else, but I'm growing a bit tired of constantly being on my toes for reasons other than the circuit I'm working on.
I don't mind spending some money if that helps to solve the problem. I'm just not going to spend $30 a pop.
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At least I got the text right. :palm: :-DD
Was this about the getting plugs stuck in sockets? The cause seems to be cheapness on my part :P Banana lead plugs that haven't been soldered through, which fit too loosely or too tightly, skimpy wires, you name it. I'm a bit done second guessing the gear every time I see an odd reading, with it actually being the gear 80% of the time. Having a probe lead break on me during continuity testing also was a fun one. I'm not sure what would happen if I ever stuffed any actual current through one of these leads, but I have a feeling it wouldn't be pretty. Long story short, having Chinese alternatives on hand can be nice if you don't have anything else, but I'm growing a bit tired of constantly being on my toes for reasons other than the circuit I'm working on.
I don't mind spending some money if that helps to solve the problem. I'm just not going to spend $30 a pop.
Yes, and I certainly understand your reasoning.
FWIW, I'm fond of Mueller, but they're expensive for some things. Take the BU-78K Kelvin Clip that goes for $50.92 per for example; a bit too rich for me. E-Z Hook makes some good stuff as well. I always look for NOS for good stuff on eBay. Saved a small fortune this way.
DIY helps with quality issues (soldering or crimping). But you're right on the variance issues so it's a bit of a gamble on the banana connectors. I have found the Mueller BU-32614 clones to be decent (retractable + stackable), which is my favorite type as it's truly universal. :-+
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I'd recommend Probemaster (http://probemaster.com/) over Fluke/Pomona where possible; especially for spring loaded probes as they're better quality. {snip}
FWIW, Fluke owns Pomona and the quality has taken a turn for the worse (Danaher/Fortive). :(
My recent experience agrees with that. I just bought some Pomona minigrabbers to make up some odd-length test leads. The springs in these new ones are mush compared to the old ones, which are nice and firm. The new ones are unusable, IMO.
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I'd recommend Probemaster (http://probemaster.com/) over Fluke/Pomona where possible; especially for spring loaded probes as they're better quality. {snip}
FWIW, Fluke owns Pomona and the quality has taken a turn for the worse (Danaher/Fortive). :(
My recent experience agrees with that. I just bought some Pomona minigrabbers to make up some odd-length test leads. The springs in these new ones are mush compared to the old ones, which are nice and firm. The new ones are unusable, IMO.
FWIW, I was talking about Probemaster's Spring Loaded Micro-Tip Test Lead Kit (http://probemaster.com/spring-loaded-micro-tip-test-lead-kit/) as the Pomona version uses thinner wire and there's no strain relief so the wire goes intermittent/breaks open.
Good to know about Pomona's current minigrabbers. If you find anything that was made in the ITT ownership era, you should be OK IMHO (i.e. NOS from eBay).
Otherwise give E-Z Hook (http://catalog.e-z-hook.com/category/test-hooks?) or Mueller (http://muellerelectric.com/product-category/grabbers-plungers/) a look (links are to their plunger & grabber connectors).
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My favorite test probes are the ones I have made myself using test lead wire, banana jacks or a 3/4" dual banana jack, a steel or stainless steel probe, and an alligator clip. For premade probes, I sometimes replace the negative test probe with an alligator clip.