Uni-T UT181A pictures

[iloveelectronics]

I've got this latest Uni-T DMM for a few weeks now but never really had the time to play with it properly. I know some of you have been waiting to see more of it so I thought I would post a few quick pictures first.

[iloveelectronics]

A few more pictures of it measuring some DC voltages.

First impressions:
1. Very well built - Feels very solid. All screws for the housing have metal threaded receivers. PCB looks tidy. Properly rated ceramic fuses.
2. Lovely display
3. Accuracy well within specs - At full scale (it's 60,000-count), assuming my 6V reference and 34461A are accurate, it's only 0.011-0.013% off. It's spec'ed to 0.025%+5d in that range.

[PedroDaGr8]

Wow looks surprisingly good. I think it might actually meet the CAT ratings on the front. 

Some of the other companies had better be a bit scared.

[retiredcaps]

Hi Franky,

Thanks for the photos so far.

If that is a Cyrustek ES51997

http://www.cyrustek.com.tw/spec/ES51997.pdf

can you confirm if the display update is 2/seconds?

[iloveelectronics]

Hi Franky,

Thanks for the photos so far.

If that is a Cyrustek ES51997

http://www.cyrustek.com.tw/spec/ES51997.pdf

can you confirm if the display update is 2/seconds?

Yes, that's one of the downsides. The display update rate is not great, 2 times per second looks about right, similar to the UT61E.

[retiredcaps]

I wonder if the CR2032 cell is a nod/wink to Fluke's 289 supercap? 

edit: Franky, do you think the CR2032 lithium cell is going to pose problems with shipping?

[iloveelectronics]

I wonder if the CR2032 cell is a nod/wink to Fluke's 289 supercap? 

LOL!

edit: Franky, do you think the CR2032 lithium cell is going to pose problems with shipping?

Both that and the Li-Po main battery pack are going to be problematic. At this point I'm still unsure I'll ever carry this product. There are alternative shippers than Hong Kong Post to ship products with lithium batteries but the costs are a lot higher, and may require paperwork and stuff like that.

[IGNT]

Wow, a new DMM UNI-T UT181  looks  so great,  franky.   

[IGNT]

Hi Franky,

Thanks for the photos so far.

If that is a Cyrustek ES51997

http://www.cyrustek.com.tw/spec/ES51997.pdf

can you confirm if the display update is 2/seconds?

Thanks for detailed schematics sharing,  Mr. "retiredcaps"

Regards

IGNT

[leppie]

Looks very nice, but at $300, I'll stick to my $60 61E

[omgfire]

Looks very nice, but at $300, I'll stick to my $60 61E

Let's wait for UT171 prices.

[tszaboo]

PCB design looks decent.
But what is it with the soldering near the left banana socket?
Also, we hate those OLED screens. Do they really have to copy something even if it is bad?

[iloveelectronics]

PCB design looks decent.
But what is it with the soldering near the left banana socket?
Also, we hate those OLED screens. Do they really have to copy something even if it is bad?

That's flux residue around the banana socket, not a deal breaker for me I actually think the OLED screen makes sense on this particular DMM because of the graphing functions for the data logging.

[BravoV]

I wonder if the CR2032 cell is a nod/wink to Fluke's 289 supercap? 

Spot on !!  LOL ... 

Attached below, just in case someone curious it's front face vs Fluke 28x.    .. hope you don't mind Franky.

[PedroDaGr8]

I wonder if the CR2032 cell is a nod/wink to Fluke's 289 supercap? 

Spot on !!  LOL ... 

Attached below, just in case someone curious it's front face vs Fluke 28x.    .. hope you don't mind Franky.

Wow that's more than a passing resemblance. They very much outright copied the layout. They might end up with a design patent lawsuit if they aren't careful.

[SeanB]

Only so many ways to lay stuff out on a front panel that is half display. Plus it is not yellow on grey.

[Maxlor]

Can you say anything yet about how the battery performs? How long does it run on a charge? And are the banana jacks really the only way to charge it, or is there some other way to run it off mains power for extended data logging periods?

[Wytnucls]

Naw, it's not yellow...

At least the CEM equivalent is vastly different: 

[iloveelectronics]

Can you say anything yet about how the battery performs? How long does it run on a charge? And are the banana jacks really the only way to charge it, or is there some other way to run it off mains power for extended data logging periods?

I haven't tested the battery performance, nor have I measured power consumption yet. Will try to do that when I get a chance. And yes, the charging can only be done through an adapter that plugs into all 4 of the banana plugs. There's no other DC socket on the DMM into which the wall wart (10VDC) that comes with the package can plug directly. But seeing that the battery pack plugs onto the PCB through a common XH-style connector, it looks easy enough to hack it and make your own mains powered power supply for long term logging.

[MCCSolutions]

Thanks for the info and tear-down for this Multimeter.

I actually just purchased it off of AliExpress for $200. :
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html]
[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html[/url]

I have stalked the EEVblog for a long time lol, finally made an account.

I will likely do a video review of some sort later with detailed info on battery life etc, if you dont get a chance to do so! 

[iloveelectronics]

Thanks for the info and tear-down for this Multimeter.

I actually just purchased it off of AliExpress for $200. :

[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html]
[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html[/url]

I have stalked the EEVblog for a long time lol, finally made an account.

I will likely do a video review of some sort later with detailed info on battery life etc, if you dont get a chance to do so! 

Did you mean $300 and not $200? Go ahead and do the review, please!

[Wytnucls]

Must be closer to 300$. Here is another seller on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2CH-Thermocouple-True-RMS-Multimeter-3-5-TFT-LCD-Admittance-db-Test-USB-UT181A-/281417251180?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4185c6796c

[MCCSolutions]

Thanks for the info and tear-down for this Multimeter.

I actually just purchased it off of AliExpress for $200. :

[url=http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html]
[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html]
[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-Multimeters-UT181A/1993504336.html[/url]

I have stalked the EEVblog for a long time lol, finally made an account.

I will likely do a video review of some sort later with detailed info on battery life etc, if you dont get a chance to do so! 

Did you mean $300 and not $200? Go ahead and do the review, please!

Nope $200! That is a wholesale website I use, I never pay retail  The listing I linked is the one I purchasedm they changed the price afterwards. I paid something like $214 after shipping, I will post the invoice in a while

[MCCSolutions]

Ok yep, so I was luckey enough to get it at that price before it changed. The seller said that it has been increased to $250(Looks like $300). Here is my order and the message from the distributor:

[onlooker]

I was luckey enough...

It looks to soon to claim luck. The tone of the seller indicated just the opposite. He was backing out of the deal, or at least was asking for an additional $50 to really finish off the deal.

 

[MCCSolutions]

Na don't be confused by the Engrish lol, not my first buy from them. Basically she is telling me that when and if I order additional units the PPU will change. But typically they are very negotiable anyhow. Besides that if the issue were pushed I would probably still pay the extra $50 in light of the cost of a Fluke 289. I do have a Fluke 287 with the executive package which I will be comparing to the UNI-T. 

[iloveelectronics]

Did they tell you how they were going to ship the package? I have a feeling that they might just be taking their chance to try to ship it by ordinary air mail. If the post office (in China) detects the lithium batteries the package could be returned...

[MCCSolutions]

I honestly have yet to have any issues with Air Mail but they also ship DHL and express. I'm ok with any of the options really. If it gets bumped I usually have them send me a unit via DHL. The last shipment I got was full of Baofeng Radios with no issues. Also some of them will also take it upon themselves to ship the units and the batteries separately. I guess we shall see lol 

***EDIT:

Ok its all good I got up with them and its on its Way! If anyone else needs one let me know, for most of the products in China, Japan, and some in South Korea I can get them below retail. Im actually currently in South Korea although Im American. 

[federikk]

hello,
did you finally get the 181a?
can you write a short review for us?


thank you!
federico

[jarvis]

I've heard from my friend mentioned that UT181a use a external reference IC. It will be lower drift.

[iloveelectronics]

Hi Franky,

Thanks for the photos so far.

If that is a Cyrustek ES51997

http://www.cyrustek.com.tw/spec/ES51997.pdf

can you confirm if the display update is 2/seconds?

hmmm does that mean it will have same drift issues like UT61E ?
@ franky, do you have time to test further? :p

I just did a quick test with the little Chinese voltage reference device and compared the readings to when I first got the unit a few months back. The least significant digit (4th decimal place) has drifted up by 1-2 digit. The same voltages remain pretty much still spot on when measured by the Agilent 34461A. But sorry, I haven't got time to do a thorough review on this meter yet

[MCCSolutions]

hello,
did you finally get the 181a?
can you write a short review for us?


thank you!
federico

Been away for a while and had to change the shipping address so it went to my house in the states then forwarded to me so hopefully I get it this week!

[federikk]

thank you everyone, and waiting for you to get and review it

is there anybody than can tell us if the dmm is worth it's price?

[federikk]

is there anybody than can tell us if the dmm is worth it's price?

not yet?

[Twasnow]

hello,
did you finally get the 181a?
can you write a short review for us?


thank you!
federico

Been away for a while and had to change the shipping address so it went to my house in the states then forwarded to me so hopefully I get it this week!

so did you ever get this?? you are still the only person to have ordered it off of aliexpress from that seller... did it come with the US style wall plug?

[Twasnow]

well i was thinking this could be a real deal ... but USD250 ... 

many sellers are selling it some with very good ratings (some that also sell on Amazon actually)  the cheapest I can find it is about 270 including shipping.

but I want to know how usable it is. Do I buy this or a 179 for the same price with no data logging, or do I swing for 730 bucks (CND) for a 289....

[Lightages]

If you want data logging and don't want to pay $700, have a look at the Brymen BM525. 80,000 records at up to 20 records per second. Price? Around $250 shipped and another $50 for the PC cable.

[federikk]

up!
any review??

[MCCSolutions]

Ok guys im finally stateside, i was in korea, and my UNI-t was sent to my address here in the US  . Well anyhow i have been using it alot the last few months and here is my take:

Design: 9/10
Functionality: 8/10
Accuracy: 9/10
Battery: 0/10 
Charger: 0/10 
Price: 
Ruggedness: 8/10
LCD Cover/Glass: 7/10
LCD Display: 10/10 
Accessories: 5/10
Leads: 8/10
Software: 10/10 
USB Cable: 7/10
Thermal Connector: 4/10   

Ok so first off I mainly use this for computer and general electronics repair, so accuracy to the .0000 to me is meh

I like the software and love the lcd! The LCD Glass(Its Plastic) is not very good though, my daughter struck it a few times with a Phillips screwdriver when playing and I noticed it really pits, and scratches fairly easily.



My Setup:



LCD:



The battery situation: UGG  , it came with a EURO charger and the plug adapter thing that sucks, it would not charge at all, it just kept cutting on and off when the charger was plugged in, I even tried letting it set overnight. I also changed the charger power supply but same result. SO I used a Sony DSLR Charger and Sony 2200mah batteries to rig it up. And I charged the cell that came with it(Blue one pictured) up directly also and it was bad.... But the Battery charge indicator on the display is correct. Oh well

The old battery:




My set up:






The only other bad thing really is the crappy thermal couplers it came with and the adapter, the T2 doesn't even work, even if you physically switch them....






The software and the USB interface however I love, it really doesn't have a noticeable lag either. It makes for a very simple and easy to use logger and it really gives a professional look.... The cable its self is meh, the wire seems low quality and I dont think it will last over a year of steady use without shorting. I do however like the IF idea it uses, it adds to the ruggedness and waterproofing and you dont have to worry about bending or breaking a USB port... 






In summery I would recommend it, especially for the price even given the headache I went threw with the charging situation which im sure is just a flaw in the one I got. If you are in the service industry and you are not going to use advanced functions I would recommend spending the same price on this UNI-T vs getting a simple Fluke DMM for the same price because this will give you a much more professional look and make a better impression on your customers.

[Maxlor]

Sorry to hear about your charging troubles. Your cutting of the case though... 

Btw, if the charging circuitry is the same as on the UT171B, you can charge it with your bench power supply. Hook up GND to COM Jack, +10V to the mA Jack and set the current limit somewhere above 500mA.

[MCCSolutions]

Sorry to hear about your charging troubles. Your cutting of the case though... 

Btw, if the charging circuitry is the same as on the UT171B, you can charge it with your bench power supply. Hook up GND to COM Jack, +10V to the mA Jack and set the current limit somewhere above 500mA.

Yea I had too cut the back stand because I wanted it to still close flush with the case lol, Could have done better but no biggie lol. As far as the case its self all I did was make a hole big enough for the +/- wires and I sealed it with hot glue, I also mounted the battery cradle with hot glue as well so it can all be removed if needed.

The thing is with the charger though their is a problem internally, because even with a good battery it would not charge threw the ports....

[Macbeth]

Yea I had too cut the back stand because I wanted it to still close flush with the case lol, Could have done better but no biggie lol. As far as the case its self all I did was make a hole big enough for the +/- wires and I sealed it with hot glue, I also mounted the battery cradle with hot glue as well so it can all be removed if needed.

The thing is with the charger though their is a problem internally, because even with a good battery it would not charge threw the ports....

You said it came with a Euro plug - does that mean it only had a 230VAC charger and you need a 110VAC in the USA? You mentioned you where in Korea which is 230VAC too.

As for looking more professional to customers with that Frankenstein meter vs a Fluke, hmm, yeah... Artisan you say? Comedian more like   

(and yes, when electricians come round to do stuff I am reassured when I see a well used Fluke in their toolkit. They look at me funny when I pass them a cuppa and bring up the subject of DMM's and Part P regs with them though  )

[bitwelder]

Sorry to hear about your charging troubles. Your cutting of the case though... 

...with the view of with the IP65 label 

[MCCSolutions]

You said it came with a Euro plug - does that mean it only had a 230VAC charger and you need a 110VAC in the USA? You mentioned you where in Korea which is 230VAC too.

As for looking more professional to customers with that Frankenstein meter vs a Fluke, hmm, yeah... Artisan you say? Comedian more like   

(and yes, when electricians come round to do stuff I am reassured when I see a well used Fluke in their toolkit. They look at me funny when I pass them a cuppa and bring up the subject of DMM's and Part P regs with them though  )

 

You sound like a noob so let me explain a few things..

A. Korea is 208v(3 Phase) not 230v, and the charger does 120v and I used a prong adapter first.

B. No one is looking at the back of the DMM.... 

C. 90% of people wouldnt know the differance between a UNI-T and a Fluke even when explained to them. 

D. The fact that you would need to call an electrician instead of fixing the issue yourself is a good indicator of your lack of knowledge. 

E. Artisan, Yes....

[Macbeth]

You sound like a noob so let me explain a few things..

A. Korea is 208v(3 Phase) not 230v, and the charger does 120v and I used a prong adapter first.

I could swear all the gear I've bought from Korea works on UK mains.. ah it's 220VAC single phase in South Korea.
I can only imagine you were in the North with a feeble 208V three phase needed to power a dim bulb, a heater bar, and kettle wired to each phase between blackouts

B. No one is looking at the back of the DMM.... 

Except for the hundreds of thousands that view this forum

C. 90% of people wouldnt know the differance between a UNI-T and a Fluke even when explained to them. 

I would imagine the people you want to look more professional to, the ones that matter that provide more contracts etc, little things like having a safe meter rated to work on equipment is a bonus.

D. The fact that you would need to call an electrician instead of fixing the issue yourself is a good indicator of your lack of knowledge. 

Not at all. I diagnose faults on mains all the time. Having a landlord who has to pay an electrician and pay for the replacement parts is not my problem. If I mess with certain items then I have to pay an electrician to inspect it and issue a certificate or else I get a big fine and/or imprisonment. The landlord can sue me as well. Hence why the "Part P" regulations are a big thorn in my side. Another "New Labour" legacy in the UK.

E. Artisan, Yes....

Oh, a board swapper. I see what you mean now.

[mos6502]

I have to pay an electrician to inspect it and issue a certificate or else I get a big fine and/or imprisonment

U WOT M8?

Are you serious?

OK, let's say you add an outlet in your living room. Your landlord comes by for "a cuppa" and sees it. He can call the police on you?

[Macbeth]

Are you serious?

OK, let's say you add an outlet in your living room. Your landlord comes by for "a cuppa" and sees it. He can call the police on you?

He could, but I really doubt they would bother unless there has been an actual injury or death caused by my installation.

More likely is he will call up council building control to come out and check the installation and charge £500+ then add VAT and pass the bill to me. If he was more reasonable he will get one of his own electricians to come and give it a once over and tick a box in a certificate, then give me a bill for £100+VAT. Without that cert he can't sell the property on, etc.

This was brought in with the connivance of the big building companies and the Labour government, on the basis that there were something like 3 recorded deaths in 20 years due to electrical wiring installations, and also how effective the FENSA scheme was in employing pointless shiny-arsed busy bodies for overseeing the glazing industry.

Yes, did you know that it is also illegal to replace a broken window pane yourself? You need an expert to putty it in you know. Someone with a certificate from the FENSA quango. Otherwise you can get a FENSA inspector from the local council to come and check your putty has cured and charge £100's for the privilege. And I thought the Window Tax was abolished in the middle ages?

This is what you get when you vote socialists into power. They have to create non-jobs for life for their mates, and they love their backhanders from large corporations too. 

[3nigm4]

Just for informations: today Amazon.it discount this meter for 215.19€ shipping included

[joeqsmith]

Still at $300 US.  I ran some tests on one a while back.  You may find them here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/825/

[3nigm4]

That's a good toy 

[joeqsmith]

Thanks.  I learned a lot about the different brands by having it.   

[cidak]

Just for informations: today Amazon.it discount this meter for 215.19€ shipping included

Comprato!
E mi arriva domani.
Grazie.

[3nigm4]

Comprato!
E mi arriva domani.
Grazie.

Di nulla
Al black friday lo vendevano a 199€... ci stavo per fare un pensierino anche io, ma poi ho preso l'UT71D, più che sufficiente per lo sporadico uso mio

[.rpv]

Hi guys, I bought this meter on ebay for 220 usd (270 regular price but with the ebay's black friday promo: 20% discount up to 50usd) and as the seller didn't have it on stock so he offer me free dhl shipping if I'll wait a bit more than 2 weeks, arrived almost a month since I paid.

The meter it's awesome, I bought it pretty much for what I saw on Joe Smith's review.

Yet I've a issue, out of the box I tried continuity (only with the tips) and it work fast, not as fast as the 61e but acceptable, then I remove the probe caps and tried again and it was sooooooooooo slow, I cleaned all the metal on the probe ends and worked as when I tested only the tips, but then I tested resistance shorting the leads and I wasn't able to get a steady reading, the thing just jump from 0.00 to 0.30 very randomly so I cleaned again the probes even the meter inputs (because it happen with other probes too) with a metal brush, acetone (not pure, the one that is used to remove nails paint) and alcohol (isopropyl) and now seems to work properly 

[joeqsmith]

I hope you watched at least the last few minutes of that part 1 and understand that it's pretty much like every other UNI-T I have looked at with a weak front end design.   

I went to look at my spreadsheet and I never ran checked the continuity on the UT61E.   At 4Hz the 181A is not a great performer but better than a lot of the ones I tested. Certainly able to detect a short fast enough at 1.5ms. 

Hope you enjoy it.

[.rpv]

I hope you watched at least the last few minutes of that part 1 and understand that it's pretty much like every other UNI-T I have looked at with a weak front end design.   

I went to look at my spreadsheet and I never ran checked the continuity on the UT61E.   At 4Hz the 181A is not a great performer but better than a lot of the ones I tested. Certainly able to detect a short fast enough at 1.5ms. 

Hope you enjoy it.

Yes, I saw the 2 parts, the 61e it's same or even a bit worst but so far so good 
I'll order some of those buck converters after the chinese new year  , BTW did you find why got burned?

And yes, I enjoy a lot of your reviews, somehow I got addicted to multimeter reviews, I really like your approach about comparing at least 3 meters, your comments about the tests and creating 2 episodes where the torture test it's apart, but being honest I really don't know where you can find those kv peaks on real life.

Very nice work and understandable even for a hobbyist 

[joeqsmith]

If you are interested in learning a little more about AC line transients, maybe have a look at the following paper published by Fluke:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi0ruPKwZ_RAhXG8CYKHbnuC_4QFggaMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fcontent.fluke.com%2Fpromotions%2Fpromo-dmm%2F0518-dmm-campaign%2Fdmm%2Ffluke_dmm-chfr%2Ffiles%2Fsafetyguidelines.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEIgAVZJkgsiXe_n_s0PjsVyrWK_w&sig2=cOj7G5cAF7NWViZvweOEow

[fs92]

Hey there, though there's been no post for some time it's a very informative thread for me.

I got the UT181A in used condition from ebay recently, but it seems to have a problem with measuring low resistances.

Can you do a reference measurement for me, so i know if mine is defective. If i measure a resistor rated 15 Ohms in Autorange mode, the multimeter shows OL (to low resistance / continuity). When i switch to Kiloohms manually, it measures correct: 0,0144 Ohms. But not in Ohms range, even in manual range.

Could you do a measurement with something like 10, 15, ... Ohms?
Thank you very much in advance

[bartwas78]

Hello everybody. Just got my UT181A yesterday and I thought I will share my small mod for long time logging. I have fitted 2mm banana posts in the back, they will be directly connected to battery for lipo charging. Still waiting for JST XH connectors to make harness inside the meter. Posts will be hot glue gunned (black color) to make it a bit waterproof and the area will be covered with aluminium tape to restore shielding.
Hope someone will find this useful and more esthetic than previous battery mod.

[joeqsmith]

Hope someone will find this useful and more esthetic than previous battery mod.

You don't provide enough information to suggest how you plan to keep the unit charged and provide isolation.   If these wires are shorted, what happens to the internal cell?  What happens if you overcharge the cell?   Your mod would interfere with the BLE interface, prevents laying the meter flat, if there was a warranty I suspect it voids it.     

I just finished charging my 181A.  It takes a good 12 hours, during which the meter can't be used.  It has roughly a 40 hour up time.  I'm not sure on the BLE battery life.  I wonder if someone would ever offer a high capacity battery holder that bolts into the back cover, similar to the Fluke 189. 

[bartwas78]

Well...
Isolation, was thinking to use two shottky diodes and set up charging voltage higher than 8.4V (+2xVfd) and put label in the back.
The terminals have no metal parts exposed, they are deep inside the plastic so there is not much risk shorting it on flat surface anyway. With diode isolation it will be perfectly safe to short it.
Regarding charging I believe most of us have some experience charging lithium batteries and I believe we all know what we are doing.
if someone wants could easily modify battery and attach cheap 2s BMS from china to protect the cells from any kind of accidents.
About meter in flat position, you could get 2mm banana connectors and they are really tiny so meter could be still used flat.
Of course warranty on mine is already gone, but there are ways to have it fixed under warranty anyway.
I believe i have found 3600mah lipo battery which will fit in there, just ordered it. Look for battery for Wltoys 12428, looks like it has the right size and with bit of modification will be working fine with fast charging capability (2hrs easily). When it comes I am planning to fit it with proper BMS and get 60hrs run time.

[joeqsmith]

After seeing the mod, I was thinking more along the lines of the rest of the mess that goes with it shorting out.   Assuming your two diode are in series with each battery you are cutting into the run time. 

I don't understand why ruin the meter just to gain 20 hours?  I never understood that other person as well who really made a mess of theirs.  Theirs should have won a special award.       

If the goal was to increase the run time, why not forget the charging, pull the internal pack and go with something much larger?   Get it into the several hundred hours?   

[The Soulman]

How about isolation between com post and external charger connection?!? 

[joeqsmith]

Are you thinking they are charging the battery and using the meter with the charger running off the mains?   Scary stuff.... 

[The Soulman]

Are you thinking they are charging the battery and using the meter with the charger running off the mains?   Scary stuff....

Or probing a mains socket with the meter in your sweaty hands..

[bartwas78]

After seeing the mod, I was thinking more along the lines of the rest of the mess that goes with it shorting out.   Assuming your two diode are in series with each battery you are cutting into the run time. 

I don't understand why ruin the meter just to gain 20 hours?  I never understood that other person as well who really made a mess of theirs.  Theirs should have won a special award.       

If the goal was to increase the run time, why not forget the charging, pull the internal pack and go with something much larger?   Get it into the several hundred hours?

Diodes will only separate battery from connection terminals, in the path between meter and battery is direct connection as before so no run time loss.

I am gaining only 20hrs on one runtime and if i need to use it for longer i can always charge while logging and extend the time. Of course I will have to watch not to short the circuits. If i will be charging from another battery pack, then there is no risk.

Meter still looks decent and addition in my case will be only two terminals and two diodes. Simple and beautiful and it will be working.

So far not seen better solution to the short runtime problem

[billtodd]

Sorry to dig up an old thread (blame Joe Q Smith :-))

This is my solution to the 181 battery life problem :

I've added a cheap wireless charging module in the battery compartment (no mods other than cutting the battery wires) .

The module (from ebay) originally output 5v but was adjusted to give 7.something volts through a schottky diode .

Positioning is critical to get the 7+ volts (enough to top-up, without overcharging, the battery)  .

A 3d printed carrier holds the transmitter on the outside with magnets attracted to the compartment screw heads.

Bill

[joeqsmith]

That's an interesting way to work around it.  How long are you logging for that battery life became such a problem?    When new, I was getting about 40 hours.  Now after a few years, the battery included with my meter is starting to drain much faster.   

Fluke offered a battery pack for their 189 which replaced the stock back cover.  This allows you to use Cs in place of the AAs.   I have a friend that has one and I don't think they have changed the batteries yet.  Its so thick that the meter stands up on the battery pack.    I use all rechargeable and have multiple sets that I rotate through.   We don't have that luxury with our 181As.   I would buy an extended kit similar as Fluke offered for the 181A if it were offered. 

Thanks for the post.