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UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.

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Rick Law:

--- Quote from: Lightages on June 05, 2013, 04:35:36 pm ---If Uni-T had not been cheap on the input protection, had configured the data cable for the auto power off switching, and supplied a USB cable instead, they could be sold for $75 and they would still sell like crazy. The backlight would be quite a bit more work to rework the design.

--- End quote ---

Yeah, I would have like to see back-light and auto power off.  The USB v RS232 cable, I can see pluses on both sides.  But back  light and auto-power-off, I would have paid $10 for that two features.

Another nice feature I would like to have the rubber part of the housing a removable-hoster like construct similar to the Flukes.

What they should put out are:

>>  a 61E+ model.  $10 for that extra three features.
>> And a 61E+Super with BL/APO feature with 40,000 or 50,000 counts, max/min (with peak), better burden voltage for current measurement, 2Amp range.  220mA with a lousy burden voltage now is just too small (and burden voltage too high)  to be useful.
>>  And a 61E+Ultra with +Super, temperature, inductance, auto 6sec hold (as it is now) or steady-read then hold, and much better burden voltage for current.

Legit-Design:

--- Quote from: Rick Law on June 07, 2013, 03:55:14 pm --->>  a 61E+ model.  $10 for that extra three features.
>> And a 61E+Super with BL/APO feature with 40,000 or 50,000 counts, max/min (with peak), better burden voltage for current measurement, 2Amp range.  220mA with a lousy burden voltage now is just too small (and burden voltage too high)  to be useful.
>>  And a 61E+Ultra with +Super, temperature, inductance, auto 6sec hold (as it is now) or steady-read then hold, and much better burden voltage for current.

--- End quote ---

Get UT-61D,  you gain backlight, auto power-off, Superlow burden voltage (lowest resistance in Daves 100$ multimeter shootout), also cheap for around 50$ on ebay. Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things. Even if you lose some resolution (maybe some accuracy too) you still have UT-61E to take care of those needs. Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.

iloveelectronics:

--- Quote from: Legit-Design on June 08, 2013, 03:39:48 am ---
Get UT-61D,  you gain backlight, auto power-off, Superlow burden voltage (lowest resistance in Daves 100$ multimeter shootout), also cheap for around 50$ on ebay. Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things. Even if you lose some resolution (maybe some accuracy too) you still have UT-61E to take care of those needs. Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.

--- End quote ---

The main thing against all the other models (except E) in the UT61 series is how slow they are. Continuity and autorangong seem painfully slow on the A-D models.

Rick Law:

--- Quote from: Legit-Design on June 08, 2013, 03:39:48 am ---...Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things....Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.

--- End quote ---

I am reasonably happy with the 61E.  I already have 3 others - 2 radioshack and a DT830B.  But I actually was thinking about getting a couple more  DT830B's when I was playing around with boost circuits:
In Volt, in current, out Volt, out current, drain current, that is 4 right there.  I could use another one to do adhoc readings.

One of my 4 is a DT830B, $6 DMM, not bad.  I use it as my volt meter for my PSU.  It actually performs better than the other cheapos from Radio Shack (4-8 years old).  So I was considering getting a pair of DT830B.  But I hate all those stuff on my table leaving me so little space.

I would not invest in another mid-low end DMMs.  If I would get more DMMs, I will probably aim for a higher end ones or real cheapies.  Mean time, I just got my ATMega328 as Volt/Current meter working on a breadboard and ordered parts to transfer it to PCB.  I divided up the 6 ADC's as 3 pairs of volt+current (switch-selectable) 0 - 5/15/30Volt and fixed 0-4Amp (using a 0.1ohm as current sense and amplified with OpAmp).  The two pairs I have working gets me +-1% to 4% accuracy.  Not bad when I have not yet calibrated them yet.  After I get the parts, I can get the 3rd pair working, transfer it to PCB, and then I'll do some software tricks (the ADC under-reads at low ranges).  If I can bring it closer to 1-2% using my UT61E as "accurate" reference, I just may end up using the ATMega as my PSU's volt+current.  All three channels shares common ground, so it took me a while to figure out how I would make that work for me.  If the thing works (at +- 1-2%), I don't need the DT830B's as volt/current meter.  If it doesn't, well, I learned a lot trying to get it working so far.

don.r:
Just got the meter today from Franky. Thanks again, Franky! The autoranging is really slow, as noted above. The probes are... well... Uni-T probes... crap.  :-- The meter really needs a backlight. Other than that, the display is crisp, the readings are accurate (when they get there) and getting 5 digits is great for less than $60.  :-+ Still waiting on my eBay UT136B for a nice comparison.

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