Products > Test Equipment
UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.
Rick Law:
--- Quote from: Lightages on June 05, 2013, 04:35:36 pm ---If Uni-T had not been cheap on the input protection, had configured the data cable for the auto power off switching, and supplied a USB cable instead, they could be sold for $75 and they would still sell like crazy. The backlight would be quite a bit more work to rework the design.
--- End quote ---
Yeah, I would have like to see back-light and auto power off. The USB v RS232 cable, I can see pluses on both sides. But back light and auto-power-off, I would have paid $10 for that two features.
Another nice feature I would like to have the rubber part of the housing a removable-hoster like construct similar to the Flukes.
What they should put out are:
>> a 61E+ model. $10 for that extra three features.
>> And a 61E+Super with BL/APO feature with 40,000 or 50,000 counts, max/min (with peak), better burden voltage for current measurement, 2Amp range. 220mA with a lousy burden voltage now is just too small (and burden voltage too high) to be useful.
>> And a 61E+Ultra with +Super, temperature, inductance, auto 6sec hold (as it is now) or steady-read then hold, and much better burden voltage for current.
Legit-Design:
--- Quote from: Rick Law on June 07, 2013, 03:55:14 pm --->> a 61E+ model. $10 for that extra three features.
>> And a 61E+Super with BL/APO feature with 40,000 or 50,000 counts, max/min (with peak), better burden voltage for current measurement, 2Amp range. 220mA with a lousy burden voltage now is just too small (and burden voltage too high) to be useful.
>> And a 61E+Ultra with +Super, temperature, inductance, auto 6sec hold (as it is now) or steady-read then hold, and much better burden voltage for current.
--- End quote ---
Get UT-61D, you gain backlight, auto power-off, Superlow burden voltage (lowest resistance in Daves 100$ multimeter shootout), also cheap for around 50$ on ebay. Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things. Even if you lose some resolution (maybe some accuracy too) you still have UT-61E to take care of those needs. Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.
iloveelectronics:
--- Quote from: Legit-Design on June 08, 2013, 03:39:48 am ---
Get UT-61D, you gain backlight, auto power-off, Superlow burden voltage (lowest resistance in Daves 100$ multimeter shootout), also cheap for around 50$ on ebay. Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things. Even if you lose some resolution (maybe some accuracy too) you still have UT-61E to take care of those needs. Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.
--- End quote ---
The main thing against all the other models (except E) in the UT61 series is how slow they are. Continuity and autorangong seem painfully slow on the A-D models.
Rick Law:
--- Quote from: Legit-Design on June 08, 2013, 03:39:48 am ---...Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things....Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.
--- End quote ---
I am reasonably happy with the 61E. I already have 3 others - 2 radioshack and a DT830B. But I actually was thinking about getting a couple more DT830B's when I was playing around with boost circuits:
In Volt, in current, out Volt, out current, drain current, that is 4 right there. I could use another one to do adhoc readings.
One of my 4 is a DT830B, $6 DMM, not bad. I use it as my volt meter for my PSU. It actually performs better than the other cheapos from Radio Shack (4-8 years old). So I was considering getting a pair of DT830B. But I hate all those stuff on my table leaving me so little space.
I would not invest in another mid-low end DMMs. If I would get more DMMs, I will probably aim for a higher end ones or real cheapies. Mean time, I just got my ATMega328 as Volt/Current meter working on a breadboard and ordered parts to transfer it to PCB. I divided up the 6 ADC's as 3 pairs of volt+current (switch-selectable) 0 - 5/15/30Volt and fixed 0-4Amp (using a 0.1ohm as current sense and amplified with OpAmp). The two pairs I have working gets me +-1% to 4% accuracy. Not bad when I have not yet calibrated them yet. After I get the parts, I can get the 3rd pair working, transfer it to PCB, and then I'll do some software tricks (the ADC under-reads at low ranges). If I can bring it closer to 1-2% using my UT61E as "accurate" reference, I just may end up using the ATMega as my PSU's volt+current. All three channels shares common ground, so it took me a while to figure out how I would make that work for me. If the thing works (at +- 1-2%), I don't need the DT830B's as volt/current meter. If it doesn't, well, I learned a lot trying to get it working so far.
don.r:
Just got the meter today from Franky. Thanks again, Franky! The autoranging is really slow, as noted above. The probes are... well... Uni-T probes... crap. :-- The meter really needs a backlight. Other than that, the display is crisp, the readings are accurate (when they get there) and getting 5 digits is great for less than $60. :-+ Still waiting on my eBay UT136B for a nice comparison.
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