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UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.

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notzippy:

--- Quote from: mariush on August 20, 2013, 08:57:20 pm ---It also says sleep mode 15 minutes while there's no such mode. 

No, imho, it's just bad data. The english version of the site is not really updated, check the chinese version always:

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.uni-trend.com.cn%2Fcp-show.asp%3Fyy%3D%25D6%25D0%25CE%25C4%26ProductNO%3D481&act=url

(^^Google Translate above) No backlight and sleep here.

--- End quote ---
Thanks, the picture on their site certainly looks like its backlight. Although your right about the specs stating "background light" is definitely not checked. Not really a deal breaker for me, just trying to get the best bang for the buck these days..

Nz

Rick Law:

--- Quote from: Electro Fan on August 20, 2013, 09:31:26 pm ---
--- Quote from: Rick Law on June 08, 2013, 05:20:34 am ---
--- Quote from: Legit-Design on June 08, 2013, 03:39:48 am ---...Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things....Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.

--- End quote ---

I am reasonably happy with the 61E.  I already have 3 others - 2 radioshack and a DT830B.  But I actually was thinking about getting a couple more  DT830B's when I was playing around with boost circuits:
In Volt, in current, out Volt, out current, drain current, that is 4 right there.  I could use another one to do adhoc readings.

One of my 4 is a DT830B, $6 DMM, not bad.  I use it as my volt meter for my PSU.  It actually performs better than the other cheapos from Radio Shack (4-8 years old).  So I was considering getting a pair of DT830B.  But I hate all those stuff on my table leaving me so little space.

I would not invest in another mid-low end DMMs.  If I would get more DMMs, I will probably aim for a higher end ones or real cheapies.  Mean time, I just got my ATMega328 as Volt/Current meter working on a breadboard and ordered parts to transfer it to PCB.  I divided up the 6 ADC's as 3 pairs of volt+current (switch-selectable) 0 - 5/15/30Volt and fixed 0-4Amp (using a 0.1ohm as current sense and amplified with OpAmp).  The two pairs I have working gets me +-1% to 4% accuracy.  Not bad when I have not yet calibrated them yet.  After I get the parts, I can get the 3rd pair working, transfer it to PCB, and then I'll do some software tricks (the ADC under-reads at low ranges).  If I can bring it closer to 1-2% using my UT61E as "accurate" reference, I just may end up using the ATMega as my PSU's volt+current.  All three channels shares common ground, so it took me a while to figure out how I would make that work for me.  If the thing works (at +- 1-2%), I don't need the DT830B's as volt/current meter.  If it doesn't, well, I learned a lot trying to get it working so far.

--- End quote ---

Please keep us posted on how your Atmega328 meter reading project is going - I'm sure some folks would be up for trying your design if you want to share it.  Thx

--- End quote ---

Sure, I will share what I learn.  I am learning some interesting stuff at least for me the newbie.

I am working on it on my spare time, so it will take at least another one or two months.

george graves:

--- Quote from: Lightages on August 20, 2013, 08:55:26 pm ---The UT61E does not have a back light.

--- End quote ---

I was planning on adding one - but the display is so sharp and clear, that you can see it in even the dimmest of rooms.  It's better then a fluke 87-5.

algorath:
i recently had to open mine up for repair. the A range was somehow shorted with the Hz, or Ohms i dont remember. turns out there was some sort of debree (im guessing from the pcb) that got stuck on the range switch. also one of the range springs was kinda corroded  :--

form:
Has anybody seen software-bugs on that DMM, too?
Sometimes the autoranging fails and instead of changing the range, the displayed value is just wrong.
Very dangerous...

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