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UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.

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snowsnee:


Carefully battery 9Volts negative hookup (V+ circle look) could negative . I did it by accident at the wrong angle to see Neg. sign no blow up did burns some parts on another UT61E this post mine took it fine.

dinoboy:
Just a heads up for everyone who uses the logging capability (btw, i use ultradmm.com):

I did long time logging of UT61E thru the original USB cable UT-D04 (purchased from official UNI-T distributor) because i had lost the original serial cable. My logged data ended corrupt because in the Excel file there were missing lines (data rows). If the Excel file has 216,000 rows, then this would equal a time period of 108,000 seconds or 1800min or 30hrs. Check the time stamp of the first row and compare it with the time stamp of the 216000th row. The difference in time should be exactly 30hrs.

This was not true with my brand new UT-D04 data cable, which meant that the file was incomplete, which i was able to verify.

So i bought the original spare part, it is called UT-D02 and can be referenced from here:
http://www.uni-trend.com/en/product/list_370_1.html

With this serial cable, i am getting the complete log, all 216000 rows for a time period of exactly 30hrs.

This may also be the explanation why UNI-TREND continues to package/ship the retail UT61E box with the serial cable and not the USB cable.

 O0

hgg:
Have you seen this backlight mod?     :)



Nisei:
Hi guys, new here.
I have some basic knowledge about electronics but I do have enough experience with soldering and building things (although I often have no clue what I'm actually doing.)
I'd like to put a backlight in my UT61E without using the chip of the meter itself and I want to keep it dead simple. There are loads of dirt cheap touch sensor switches on eBay and my plan is to put one at the top inside of the meter and switch two 3528 LEDs with it (Like in the post above this one but that seems unnecessarily complicated). The switch needs 2.2 to 5.5V so my question is where on the circuit board can I get that voltage from without interfering with the measurements? If not possible there's always the way to take it straight from the battery but that's not very practical since the LED's could be switched on even if the meter is turned off.
Also, what's the very thin wire called that's often used for things like these? It looks to be very thin single strand bare copper wire but it's insulated with enamel. I'm trying to source it but it's hard when you don't know what it's called.

Thanks in advance.

Macbeth:

--- Quote from: Nisei on July 27, 2015, 12:00:45 am ---Hi guys, new here.
I have some basic knowledge about electronics but I do have enough experience with soldering and building things (although I often have no clue what I'm actually doing.)
I'd like to put a backlight in my UT61E without using the chip of the meter itself and I want to keep it dead simple. There are loads of dirt cheap touch sensor switches on eBay and my plan is to put one at the top inside of the meter and switch two 3528 LEDs with it (Like in the post above this one but that seems unnecessarily complicated). The switch needs 2.2 to 5.5V so my question is where on the circuit board can I get that voltage from without interfering with the measurements? If not possible there's always the way to take it straight from the battery but that's not very practical since the LED's could be switched on even if the meter is turned off.
--- End quote ---
You want to trace the VBAT going into the selector switch and find where it comes out. Chances are it will go to a 5V or 3V regulator and that is where you can source the proper current for your LEDs.

--- Quote ---Also, what's the very thin wire called that's often used for things like these? It looks to be very thin single strand bare copper wire but it's insulated with enamel. I'm trying to source it but it's hard when you don't know what it's called.
--- End quote ---
Well, I've always known it as "enameled copper wire" but I think it is more popularly known as "magnet wire". Just make sure you use an adequate gauge if you are using it for high currents (like bright LEDs)

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