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UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.

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Nisei:

--- Quote from: Macbeth on July 27, 2015, 01:55:12 am ---You want to trace the VBAT going into the selector switch and find where it comes out. Chances are it will go to a 5V or 3V regulator and that is where you can source the proper current for your LEDs.

--- End quote ---
Hm, that would work if I knew what a regulator looked like... :)
So you can't tell from the schematic where on the board I can find a 3V or 5V connection that can be used for this?


--- Quote ---Well, I've always known it as "enameled copper wire" but I think it is more popularly known as "magnet wire". Just make sure you use an adequate gauge if you are using it for high currents (like bright LEDs)
--- End quote ---
Hey thanks! Appreciate your help. Any idea what would be a reasonable gauge? I have no experience with such thin wires.

lefedor:
Hello guys, can You please help me with the question about this multimeter.
Have briefly red this topic but strangely haven't fount the answer.
There are major negativity about unit's weak input protection.
I have old revision and want upgrade it's input protection. There are SG1/SG2 empty places on PCB and also reviewers often mentions that PTC could have better nominal (there also 2 of them). Those are really cheap and accessible parts.
So, question is: can anybody please recommend nominals for this unit?

I ask about 2 PTC's and 2 MOV's (and may be there should be 1-2 extra?) I could solder to this PCB:


BTW, Also I think upgrade fuses from 250V to 600V version, but this is different story and after this mod unit price will raise close to the fluke version, but what would You do, I own 61E already.

Lightages:
I would only put in some MOVs or spark gaps in the empty places. This could affect the accuracy of the capacitance function a little. The most common failure mode for the UT61E seems to be high voltage getting through and killing the main chip so the over voltage protection would be a good idea. I would look for 1kV or 1.5kV MOVs, or you can put lower ones in series too although that is not ideal. Don't bother changing the PTCs IMHO. Changing the fuses does not necessarily make the meter any safer. If the rest of the design cannot handle a sudden voltage spike if a fuse blows under with very high energy behind it the insides can still flash over and explode anyway. Actually the GS version of this model is de-rated compared to your version and it has all the proper input protections installed. I would not bother with the fuses neither but keep your wits about you when using the meter.

wasyoungonce:
New UT61E, images here.  PCB layout different to some, no VREF LT1970 pads on PCB...sigh!

Also, 1st stupid question...the "Data Output in progress" Icon is "on" the LCD all the time.  Manual seemed to indicate I could turn this off by holding the REL button for over 2 seconds.  Doesn't change icon!  Is this RS232 data out?

I'm starting to look at the vids and other images appear to indicate this is on all the time?  Is this right?  Sorry if it's been done to death!

mariush:
The icon is always on, because the meter is always sending data.

Read the IC datasheet (should be here in the thread somewhere, if not google it), the chip has this data logging feature that can be turned on or off through some pins but on ut61e it's configured by uni-t as always on.  When datalogging is enabled, the auto power off is disabled and so on.   

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